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Lower Tier Left Side

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 1

Description

Lower cliff line on the far left (and Separated from the Lower Tier RHS).

Access issues inherited from Eagles Head

To be assessed.

Approach

Probably best to walk straight up from Waterworks Track unless planning to visit the Right Side as well.

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Wide corner on left side of bushy alcove a few metres right of where the old pad straight up from Waterworks Track reaches the cliff.

FA: Heather Phillips & Alan Hope, 1982

Start at the arete 2 metres left of "GT Stripe"

  1. 10m (16) 'Arete' then wall, exiting left of a large boulder onto large ledge.

  2. 15m (12) Up the right edge of the main face.

FA: Keith Egerton & Kieran Loughran (alt), 1982

Start just left of where the old track meets the cliff and just right of an empty bolt hole.

Follow a corner crack through a roof then a face from a terrace.

FA: Keith Egerton & James Falla, 1984

Start: The next gully to the left has two corners on the right side. The right-hand, short corner.

Climb the corner and finish straight up the wall. A variant finish at the same grade is to move left into the left-leading diagonal.

FA: Jim Nelson, M.Spence. Variant: Felicity Rousseaux & Stephanie Perrie, 1978

A lovely climb.

The elegant sloping corner just left of Sweet Thursday.

FA: Keith Egerton & Peter Cunningham, 1978

A classy arete but fiddling in the protection is scary.

Start as for Sundae.

Up Sundae for 8 metres and move out left to the arete and up.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Geoff Weigand, 1985

Start at a tree at the base of the left wall of the Sundae gully.

Climb the wall for 10 metres then move up left to a large ledge. Climb the arete on the right.

FA: Peter Cunningham & Heather Phillips, 1981

Amusing start and a good continuation

Start 10 metres left of the Sundae gully at an undercut corner.

Pull into corner and up it and easy chimney.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Arthur Glencross, 1981

Start a few metres left of Copybook, just left of the centre of the wall.

Climb the wall until just below the left edge of the big roof. The arete on the left to an exciting finish.

FA: Ian Anger & Kieran Loughran, 1985

Start is difficult to protect.

Start at round arete just left of No Name Country.

Up arete to a ledge. Continue up the wall, keeping left of the arete.

FA: Geoff Weigand (solo), 1984

Climb seams 2 metres left of the start of Bushwalking In The Gramps past a poor pin (probably not necessary)

FA: Kieran Loughran & Tony Pearson, 1984

Start at orange corner 15 metres left of Bushwalking In The Gramps.

Corner to roof and move right to easy ground

FA: Geoff Weigand, 1984

A fine climb spoiled by a silly crux.

Start at orange corner as for District Nursing Service.

Corner to roof and traverse left below the roof to a small ledge. Either move into the gully or use as many cheating stones as necessary to continue up the wall.

FA: Ulla Pearson (to ledge). Geoff Weigand & Tony Perason (complete route), 1984

Geoff was pointed at this to keep him away from STD Wall.

Thin technical seam up the overhung wall at the left end of the crag. Might be more popular if the crappy fixed wire was replaced with a bolt.

FA: Geoff Weigand, 1984

This cliff is unlocated

If you know where this cliff is then please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. contact us if you have any issues.

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Fri 28 Apr
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