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Creek Cliff Lower All Trad climbing 18 routes in sector

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 18

Climbing in this area is not permitted.

18
AU
71013151719

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
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D

Description

A much easier to access cliff. Most of the climbs are on South faces that have shade nearly all day in summer. The climbs tend to be on the side walls of East facing blocks and follow cracks between the strata, most of which are right leaning.

Access issues inherited from Wildebeest

On the "to be assessed" list. If PV can manage the approach. Creek Cliff might be the more convenient option for assessment.

Approach

The obvious S facing cliff on the other side of the creek about 15mins into the walk-in. Head down to the creek and up to the first block [Conservative Crag]

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

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Contents

Routes

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Grade Route

Conservative Crag Back to contents

This is the first cliff you reach heading uphill from the creek. It has a number of right leaning lines and two prominent chimney lines. Descend at the left hand side down a steep and fairly unstable hillside. Some abseil anchors would be preferable.

2
13 Republicans Trad 13m

At the LH end of the cliff a R leaning crack/chimney line. Committing pull up into line then up more easily. A BD#3 in a shallow pocket to the L of the line protects the start.

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 5 Mar 2015

3
15 Darling’s Retreat Trad 13m

3m R of Republicans two wide cracks start 5m up. Up and L past small orange triangle to foot of cracks. Up these exiting L to finish up narrow buttress between chimneys.

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 11 Dec 2014

4
7 Right Hand Twin Chimney Trad 13m

Up the RH branch of the main central chimney.

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 11 Nov 2014

5
11 ★ Tories Trad 13m

1m R of RHTC. Up into R leading line, pleasant balancy climbing up this.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 11 Dec 2014

6
15 ★ Whippet Mixed trad 13m, 2

5m R of Tories is a wall leading to some deep wide cracks. Pull up onto small ledge, up past 2 FH to deep R leaning crack, up this. Good climbing and protection.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 5 Mar 2015

7
12 Mark IV Male Trad 13m

The short chimney towards the RH end of the face, just R of Whippet. Exit L towards top and pull up onto easier ground.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 11 Dec 2014

8
15 Whatever You Wish Trad 11m

About 50m uphill from Conservative Crag is a small steep orange wall. It has a distinctive white quartz streak towards its LH side. Up blocky groove L of this streak to ledge. Step R onto face and up to below the large protruding block below the overhangs. Exit L. Care needed with rock and protection.

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 5 Mar 2015

Suez Crisis Block Back to contents

Uphill and L from Conservative Crag about 80m are some more South facing blocks. The LH of the bigger blocks has an obvious deep wide R leading crack towards its LH side. This crack is Suez Crisis. Descent is possible at both ends.

10
15 Suez Bank Trad 16m

The LH arête of the Suez Crisis block, the route struggles to stay out of the dead tree and is hard to protect.

FA: Peter Cody, Philip Armstrong & Jerry Maddox, 31 Jan 2015

11
16 Suez Crisis Trad 25m

Uphill and L from Conservative Crag about 80m are some more South facing blocks. The LH of the bigger blocks has an obvious deep wide R leading crack towards its LH side. Hard entry to crack then up to summit block, traverse L beneath this and up short chimney crack.

FA: Philip Armstrong, Jerry Maddox & Peter Cody, 31 Jan 2015

12
17 ★ Mithridates Mixed trad 25m, 3

Face climbing on good rock. 5m R of Suez Crisis is a R leading orange seam. Start up the seam, move L onto a ledge. Up face past 3 FH. Up R of third FH to finish up R leading crack. Easily L and through break to top. Take medium cams for the climbing above and below the bolted section.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 12 Mar 2015

13
14 Seamless Trad 25m

Start as for Mithridates. Up, then step R to follow the right wall of the seam to the steeper headwall, up this on fragile jugs finishing up L.

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 11 Dec 2014

14
13 Disraeli Trad 25m

Start at the arête R of Seamless. Up L of the arête, step L at a ledge to the thin juggy cracks, up these then L up arête to finish through break.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 5 Mar 2015

15
10 Whatever you Want Trad 25m

Start just R of Disraeli. The crack around the R arête, bridging into the chimney, to ledge. Climb easy corner moving onto the L face to avoid the massive loose looking blocks. Finish up easy break in overhangs.

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 5 Mar 2015

16
9 Bon Mot Trad 18m

The next block R of the Suez Crisis block. Start up L arête just R of wide crack/gully separating the two blocks. Up to and up juggy flake to easy angled section, finish up short wide crack to summit. Descend down the North side of the block, possibly roped up.

FA: Philip Armstrong, Jerry Maddox & Peter Cody, 31 Jan 2015

17
17 ★ Balance of Power Trad 16m

Just R Bon Mot of is an intermittent R leading crack which is steeper and much better than it looks. Up the crack, good steep moves with some amazing holds and excellent protection [cams to BD4]

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 11 Dec 2014

Big Cliff Back to contents

Uphill behind the Suez Crisis blocks is a large South facing cliff with two big chimneys lines. Descent is down through the chimney/chasm at the right hand end.

19
12 Right Crack Trad 25m

Uphill and behind the Suez Crisis block is a larger cliff, also facing south. At the L had end of this cliff are 2 right leaning crack lines. Up the RH line.

FA: Jerry Maddox, Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 31 Jan 2015

20
19 Pickett’s Charge Trad 26m

About 30m R of Right Crack is a deep chimney [the R hand of 2 chimneys on this cliff]. Climb the overhung stepped corner on the L side of this chimney.

FA: Peter Cody, Philip Armstrong & Jerry Maddox, 30 Jan 2015

21
14 Pinnacle Trad 10m

From behind the Pickett’s Charge block head uphill and L 80m to a pinnacle with a L curving crack. Up the steep juggy crack exiting L.

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 13 Mar 2015

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Central Grampians Guide Vol 1 North and East

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

-5% Buy
ⓘ
Central Grampians Guide Vol 2 West and South

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

-5% Buy
ⓘ
Grampians Bouldering Guide

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

Buy
ⓘ

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