Ascents in Eureka Wall as Hang dog

Onsight P1. Scary/Dangerous clipping first bolt, couldn't reach it. Found this pitch technically as difficult as P2. 3 shots at P2, dogged first lap, fell off crux 2nd and 3rd go taking some big whips. Need a rest day as its 7 days on. Last shot, 1 fall at crux and clean to top. Rock climbing doesn't get better than this, one of the best routes I have ever climbed.

Wow, KP, this is up there with THE BEST. Technical, pumpy, immaculate and intense for 40-odd metres. There is 1 Jug on the entire pitch. 3 laps on Top Rope Solo putting it all together, with surprisi gly good linkage on the 2nd lap (but utterly worn-out by the 3rd lap). Dialled all 5-6 cruxes, but really struggled on the hardest Flake Crux with a blind footer. The top headwall is beautiful steep thinness and nails when pumped. With more endurance I could do this... This is a route to aspire to!

TRS as a warmup to re-equip the route and refine beta on the lower crux. Struggled in the sweaty sun, but got the gear on (placing it all while leading) and came up with a new sequence for the lower crux that made it more strenuous, but more solid.

Wow. Committing to the start fall-across from the fin took a while. Onsight to the undercling lower crux, then foot slip, then clean to 2m from the traverse jug placing gear before the wheels fell off. After a lot of falls I still haven't worked out 1.5m of extreme stemming to gain the traverse jug. Once on jug, clean to top. Amazing technical climb with slightly fiddly gear, and an utterly desperate crux. I need KP to resurrect the Gerbil to get through this clean. Back tomorrow.

Lead the gear into the top half this time. Came off right at the top of the section with bad feet on my lead attempt. Better to leave the rope in the P1 gear for P2 - lighter to pull up when clipping.

Seconded it to clean the gear. None of the move are too hard but there is a lot of climbing. Still a bit beyond me.

Crappy rock after the ledge, wet up top and desperate near the top! Should have warmed up on Return to Gariwerd instead!

Superb climb. Great varieties of moves. Love the arete with compression moves that followed by pants-browning roof! A bit diabolical without placing pros in between bolts. Didn't feel awesome today.

Foot slipped, argh!!!!!!

P2: Tag teamed with Steve to lead the gear in. Best effort was 2 rests + a hang to experiment with the sequence to the arete.

pretty awesome. very sustained. Just a quick suss lap

2nd shot, 4-o'clock slump probably contributed to this failure. Oh well, a project for next time.

Pre-placed gear.

Totally amazing. Probably not the best wall to get on when you haven't climbed in 2 months. My feet were all over the place.

Close but no cigar… Placed all the bomber gear on the first burn taking a couple of big falls off the crux, kept the run out to the anchor spicy. Sadly my second shot wasn't to be when my foot slipped post crux, next time gadget. With climbs this good on the best rock who can complain about having to do a few more laps..

Do yourself a favour and stop dreaming about this route just go out there and tie in for the adventure.

One rest. Very pumped