Nodes in Gate of the North Wind

The cliff has easy access along a tourist track (not much scrub bashing here!). Not much potential for hard climbs but the solid rock, excellent friction and wonderful outlook will provide pleasant climbing for a morning or so. Cliff faces north-east.

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

The thin crack and left arete of the west face (3m left of Earth Time). Up.

Thin crack up centre of west face. Up initial right facing corner. Step left at first overlap and then straight up.

Thin crack on right of west face (About 3-4m right of Earth Time). Start from block down right of crack. Pull up and over bulge and then follow thin crack to top.

The next route is to the right of right arete ie on south wall. Start from top of boulder in cool gully - up discontinuous flakes on south face.

The Main Wall is immediately down and right (facing downhill) of Shark Skin Buttress.

The most obvious line on the cliff and in fact the first route done. At right hand end of main cliff is a vertical crack that goes straight up to a perched block at the top of the cliff. Up.

Start 3m left of Silent Screen. Up right leaning diagonal for 3m then directly up wall above to ledge. Then directly up wall above on amazing flakes. Good climbing.

Wanders about a bit. Start 10m left of Silent Screen at a left leaning ramp. Up this and hence to ledge. Step 3m left and then up to a large obvious flake. Up the wall just right of flake and then across left of the crack directly above the flake.

Start as for 'Down Two, Then Left' but continue directly up the wall above to meet the left leaning diagonal. Follow this to the next ledge. Then step right and up wall above.

About 25m left of Down Two Then Left a large block sits atop the ledge at 3m. Directly above the block is a crack. This is Enslaved by the Rainbow. Up to the block, then up flakes to the crack. Follow the crack.

Immediately left of the block on En- slaved by the Rainbow the lower wall is characterised by closely spaced, al- most vertical small overlaps. Start 2m to left of right hand end. Up to ledge (crux) and then directly up wall above on good holds.

Start 3m left of Orgel’s Second Rule. Up to ledge. Step right to incipient crack that doesn’t reach ledge. Up this and then up wall directly above.

At far left end of wall (before wall breaks down) there is a large S- shaped crack and ramp. Follow the ‘S’ and then directly up the wall above.

This is a small wall that has excellent rock. The highest part of this wall is directly below Blame it on the Pony Express and is only about 10m downhill from the Main Wall.

Start 15m right of Wooden Soldiers, at the highest section of cliff. Straight up on great holds.

Start 15m left of the lowest point on the wall (ie the highest section of cliff), near the start of a small ledge just left of a thin right leaning seam. Directly up the wall on pockets.

Start 4m left of Wooden Soldiers in an open seam directly beneath a honey- comb section of rock at top of cliff. Up and then up through honeycomb section.