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Routes in Green Gap Pinnacle

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Showing all 12 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
15 Dynamo Hum

Start: East (left facing the cliff) of 'Green Gap Pinnacle' is a cliff with a long arete forming it\\'s left edge.

  1. 50m (15) The arete is gained from the left and followed

  2. 50m (15) 'Arete'

  3. 50m (15) Climb on the right side of steep upper section, then regain the arete by a crack and follow it again.

FA: Keith Lockwood & John Bowen (Var), 1976

Trad 150m, 3
17 M1 Caveat Emptor

A huge corner capped by big rooves.

Start: Starts half way up the gully just left of \\

  1. 40m (17) climb up into the corner, traverse right from below steep section and make a tricky mantle past a piton runner on to a loose block. Up left on ramp and on up crack. Traverse left to corner from fixed nut.

  2. 33m (17) (crux) up line (large nuts, loose rock, PR) and up right to main roof

  3. 33m (17) Traverse right (four aids, including two fixed aid pitons) using last aid to lower to ledge. On to right wall (fixed aid piton) and make an exposed traverse right (PR) to shallow groove. Up to ledge on right arete

  4. 38m (17) Up right to finish up the golden handshake

FA: Chris Baxter, Keith Lockwood & Ed Neve, 1973

Aid 140m, 2
19 TBC

Damien / Kevin to provide rotue description

Start: Complete P1 of 'Caveat Emptor'

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Damien Heath, 2009

Trad
17 Sweet Sixteen

Good climbing but hard to find your way as the line is very subtle - a big adventure!

Start: Starts about 10m up the gully where the angle eases and a crack/corner system starts on the right wall (facing the cliff).

  1. 45m (17) Climb a series of cracks and corners to ledge. Tend up and rightwards (tricky thin slabbing in some sections) up wall to belay in sloping 10m long corner crack with some fixed nuts and a very old big (what used to be red) sling with some small orange roofes above and right and small ledge above and left.

  2. 40m (15) up corner then step left onto small ledge. Up and right a little to arete. Up to large corner with attractive orange corner just left of middle and small ledge right of this. Belay near attractive orange corner near center of large corner.

  3. 50m (15) Up attractive corner crack then move left and up wall on good horizontal breaks to large ledge (much vegetation!). Either break the belay here or continue up to top by left (corner) or right wall. Belay on summit.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Ed Neve, 1974

Trad 180m, 3
22 Eagle Buttress

then head left up attractive crack

Start: Complete P1 of \\

  1. -m (-) As per 'Sweet Sixteen'

  2. 30m (22) Straight up, then traverse right into left facing corner. Traverse led (hard) on lip of overhang to right facing corner. Up this then step right to ledge

  3. 50m (15) Up steep face on good holds, easing (this pitch is prominent from the ground).

  4. 10m (-) Up easily

FA: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood (var) & Jane Wilkinson, 1988

Trad 140m, 4
14 The Golden Handshake

Classic outing.

Start: start below the only real line on the wall, 100m left of the right arete (down climb)

  1. -m (-) Climb wall to crack through overhang and up flake-crack. Exit right.

  2. 24m (-) Step down and traverse right to crack. Up to blocks.

  3. 45m (-) Go right 3m, up 10m then veer up left for 28m. Left slab to small tree.

  4. 44m (-) Up left to traverse left. Go up from blocks to overhang. Traverse left to big line and up on to left wall.

  5. 36m (-) On to left arete of face. Veer up left past big dead tree, then climb corner on left to overhangs. Traverse right and go up to exit right to second dead tree.

  6. 44m (-) Crack to cully. Leave it when cracks lead up right wall.

FA: Chris Baxter & Geoff Gledhill (alt), 1973

Trad 220m, 6
5 Green Gap Pinnacle Arete

Start: From the small tree 6m up the right arete.

  1. -m (-) go left from the ledge, up 6m, back right and up corner through blocks.

  2. 36m (-) Up past bush on right, traverse left on to side of arete, diagonally across steep slab and up to small pinnacle.

  3. 42m (-) Walk off pinnacle and scramble up until above trees

  4. 42m (-) Left into V-gully and traverse on to side of arete. Up face to sloping ledge.

  5. 42m (-) Up

FA: Alan Gledhill & Geoff Gledhill, 1969

Trad 190m, 5
10 By Crom

The arete and wall on the right end of the cliff above the col behind green gap pinnacle. Start about 40m down and west of the col.

FA: Keith Lockwood (Solo), 1997

Trad 130m
13 Black Boys

Up crack then scramble up gully.

Start: Crack 2m right of arete (the left of two) at left end of steep orange wall (about 400m left of \"Sweet Sixteen\")

FA: Mark Connor & Stuart Willis, 1994

Trad 45m
14 Paint it Black

Start: Crack 6m right of arete (the right of two) at left end of steep orange wall (about 400m left of \"Sweet Sixteen\"

  1. 40m (14) Crack 4m right of Black Boys, then off-width. Up.

  2. 20m (14) Chimney, then scramble up gully

FA: Mark Connor & Stuart Willis, 1994

Trad 60m, 2
19 On the take

Unlikely climbing through steep terrain. Much easier than it looks.

Start: About 60m left of the descent gully at a lovely orange Arapelean like wall. It's about 10m left of Ingvar's bolted route.

FA: Adrian Koenig & Josef Goding, 2009

Sport 22m
25 The Nati Groove

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009

Sport 20m, 6

Showing all 12 routes.

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