Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Eagles Head Upper Tier | |||||
19 | ★ Some Faraway Beach
Start: About 8 metres left of the right-hand side of the long cave where a flake-line crosses the roof of the cave to the lip. Start where the flake reaches the lip.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Ian Anger, 1985 | 60m, 2 | |||
22 | Maggie
Takes a lovely wall but not much information about it. Start as for "What's Marilyn Waring". Not much known. Up as for What's Marilyn Waring for a bit then maybe right and up. FA: ?Louise Shepherd, 2000 | 30m | |||
22 | ★ What's Marilyn Waring?
Start in the middle of the smooth wall right of Talon Up thin crackline for 12 metres and traverse left to rest and thread in scoop (small cam protects crux which includes traverse). Exit right and up subtle corner to large vegetated ledge. FA: Tim Day & Louise Shepherd (alt), 1991 | 65m | |||
19 | Talon
Start: Start in manky gully at left side of face.
FA: Heather Phillips & Peter Cunningham, 1981 | 80m, 2 | |||
10 | Buglers Retreat
Utterly worthless. . Bash up the manky gully that Talon starts from until a large roof with an off-width crack is reached. Walk, bash and scramble right across the ledge system to the enxt gully and finish up this. FA: Peter Cunningham & Heather Phillips, 1981 | 100m | |||
17 | The Velvet Beak
Thin holds starts you off. Arête at left-hand end of 'Talon' Wall Thin start on arête leads to faint crack to ledge just right of 'Talon' first pitch. FA: Geoff Butcher & Damien Heath, 2006 | 25m | |||
8 | Top Hat
Easy scamble up right arete of Exploration Wall to Anchors FA: Solo Damien Heath, 2006 | 27m | |||
18 | Inadequate Oxygen
Nice climbing to sustained crux. Start: 1m left of Top Hat. Easy start to middle section sustained moves though break on horizontals to ledge then upper wall in a short corner to under roof. FFA: Damien Heath & Geoff Butcher, 2006 | 27m | |||
19 | Different Kind of Esky
More face climbing with thin breaks. Start: 'Excellent' route with great moves, worth a star 2m left of Inadequate Oxygen easy first section to middle wall, then break though just left of a protruding block perched on the middle ledge, upper wall to large ledge FA: Geoff Butcher & Damien Heath, 2006 | 27m | |||
21 | Modern Exploration
Great face climbing through sustained twin seams. A ripper 'best route on wall' Start: 2m left of A Different Kind Of Esky. Easy first part until under twin cracks in middle steep section of wall. Take cracks to good horizontal then right though weakness to middle ledge. Technical exit moves gets you to easier ground. Face above to rap station. FA: Damien Heath & Geoff Butcher, 2006 | 30m | |||
19 | Get Ready Bold
Pleaseant but sustained face climbing Start 1m left of Modern Exploration under the gap in the two protruding blocks on the middle ledge. Easy ground to a number of flake moves right. Move left to go though gap between blocks, face to ledge. FA: Damin Heath & Geoff Butcher, 2006 | 27m | |||
18 | ★ Wanna Buy An Idea
Varied face climbing with tricky crux. Can be done as independent line by climbing up via seam 2m L of GRB. Start: As for Get Ready Bold, then left on flakes that traverse 2m to a stance. Hard move though middle wall (crux). Continue up and slightly L to finish in right facing corner just before upper ledge under large roof. Traverse R to anchor. FA: Geoff Butcher & Damien Heath, 2006 | 28m | |||
10 | Off Shore Drilling
Interestng climbing at easyier grade. Start: Obvious main corner at left-hand end of cliff. Interesting finish just before exiting onto ledge FA: Solo Geoff Butcher, 2006 | 23m | |||
22 | Benazir
Supposed to be surprisingly easy climbing after a hard start. Gear was scoped out from abseil beforehand which suggest that it might be hard to protect onsight. Start: Two buttresses left of "Talon" is an attractive, steep wall characterised by horizontal breaks and an overhanging left arete. Probably the face left of "Exploration Wall". Benazir is on the wall directly above the top of Sundae, **18. Start a litle way up the slope below the wall and move out left to where fine climbing leads up the middle of the wall. FA: Louise Shepherd, Steve Monks, Jane Wilkinson & Mike Broadbent., 1989 | 35m | |||
Eagles Head STD Wall | |||||
16 | ★ Rumbuggery
The big diagonal ramp that is the access route for "STD Wall". Finish up the corner at the left side of the wall. FA: Peter Watling & Peter Treby (alt), 1978 | 95m | |||
16 | Flying Compost
Start: Start in the corner just right of the ramp of "Rumbuggery"
FA: Peter Cunningham & Jim Nelson, 1978 | 50m, 3 | |||
23 | ★★ The Lash
Rum, buggery and the lash; traditional Australian pastimes. The superb sustained left-hand line on STD wall starts as a wide crack and rapidly improves. FA: Louise Shepherd, Kieran Loughran & Maureen Gallagher, 1984 | 25m | |||
25 | ★★ Venus Aphrodites
Fondling rock never felt so good. Climb the fairly steep, right-trending crack. The abseil chain is reached by a traverse left from the belay. FA: Louise Shepherd & Geoff Weigand, 1985 | 45m | |||
25 | ★★ Electra, Ring Your Mother
Classic, central line. Louise recalls it as being quite bold.
FA: Louise Shepherd & Steve Monks, 1986 | 50m, 2 | |||
23 | ★★★ Discipline and Punish
Sustained right arete of "STD Wall"
FA: Louise Shepherd & Tim Day, 1991 | 55m, 3 | |||
20 | Long Distance
Start 4 metres right of the left edge of the outcrop. Climb the wall to a flake-line at the bulge. Follow the flake-line until it runs out, move left and go up. FA: Stephen Burke & Kieran Loughran. Easter, 1985 | 15m | |||
Eagles Head Eagles Head Summit Crags Back And Beyond | |||||
17 | I Think I'll Eat My Hat
| 15m | |||
21 | I Used To Be A Beardstroker , But I'm All Right Now
| 24m | |||
23 | Doomsday Destination
The obvious left trending corner which graces the centre of the wall. FFA: Ingvar Lidman, 2010 | 30m, 2 | |||
18 | High On The Hill
| 40m | |||
Eagles Head Eagles Head Summit Crags HB Wall | |||||
17 | Power Of Curry
| 22m | |||
10 | Thesiger
| 45m | |||
27 | The Chinstrap Gobbler
Climb the right leading sickle/crack on the steep orange wall to the left of Thesinger. The top of the climb is equipped with chains for descent. Can be climbed with a full set of standard rocks. FFA: Ingvar Lidman, 2011 | 30m | |||
14 | Underwhelmed
| 47m | |||
Eagles Head Eagles Head Summit Crags Dead Explorers Slab | |||||
10 | What's The Point Of Going Climbing If You Don't Like Ti-Tree?
| 45m | |||
13 | Lassiter
| 61m | |||
10 | Leichardt
| 65m | |||
Eagles Head Eagles Head Summit Crags Eagles Head Summit Slab | |||||
9 | Force 10
| 50m | |||
9 | Mad Dogs And Englishman
| 50m | |||
8 | Out In The Noonday Sun
| 50m | |||
8 | Jetstream
| 44m | |||
8 | Wind Shear
| 35m | |||
5 | Lee Shore
| 33m | |||
9 | Blow The Man Down
| 33m | |||
Ruined Castle | |||||
23 | ★ Jungle Jellies
Right facing jam crack then bulging orange wall and finger crack crux. Finish up easy wall above to rap anchors on ledge. Bring a full rack of wires and a few medium cams. FA: Neil Monteith, 2006 | 20m | |||
17 | Possum Police
Climb corner as for 'Winter Solstice' then move left under bulge. Continue straight up wall on pockets, then upper wall on small edges to ledge. FA: Geoff Butcher, Sharyn George & Kym Sinclair, 1997 | 25m | |||
14 | ★ Winter Solstice
Starts below a jagged flake on the right end of the wall. Climb small right-facing corner to flake, then around right to finish up slab. Walk off left or rap from tree. FA: Geoff Butcher & Kym Sinclair, 1997 | 25m | |||
18 | ★ Tiger Mitres Central Organ
Meaty. In the centre of the wall is an appealing Arapilisean flake crack. Follow this to where it almost joins the shallow corner on the left. Continue right and up to terrace. Be careful of hollow flake in the middle. FA: Michael Hampton & Peter Woodfield, 1991 FA: Michael Hampton & Peter Woodfield, 1991 | 20m | |||
20 | A Northern Pharos Kitten
Cute. Start right of TMCO, 2m left Legend Of 'The Fall'. Climb small right facing corner to overlap, step left then up to tree. Rap off tree. FA: Greg Caire, Geoff Butcher & Tanya Freeman, 1997 | 20m | |||
13 | Legends Of The Fall
Surprisingly good for a wide crack. Climb the major corner on the right side of the recessed wall. FA: Kym Sinclair, Sharyn George & Geoff Butcher, 1997 | 10m | |||
20 | Short Sharp Shock
Steeper and nicer than it looks. Climb the obvious steep, short crack 2m right of Legends Of the Fall to ledge. FA: Greg Caire & Tanya Freeman, 1997 | 15m | |||
17 | ★ A Good Day Out
Delightful left facing finger crack that ends prematurely on slab, then veer left to finish up vegetated rubbish onto ledge. FA: Greg Caire, Tanya Freeman & Geoff Butcher , 1997 | 30m | |||
17 | ★ A Good Day Out Direct Finish
FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006 | 30m | |||
16 | The Shortest Day
20m right of 'A Good Day Out'. Climb nice looking crack 3m left of 'Gorker' to under overlap. Exit left. Rap from tree. FA: Geoff Butcher, Kym Sinclair & Sharyn George, 1997 | 25m | |||
17 | ★ Gorker
The first obvious line on the compact wall left of The Snack bar. Climb small orange corner moving left at bulge. Continue up shallow grey corner. FA: Michael Hampton, 1991 | 25m | |||
17 | ★ Carcazonz Crack
FA: Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker, 2006 | 35m | |||
18 | The Knights Templar
Enjoyable, interesting trad climbing and a nice way to get to the 3rd tier. Starts 1m left of Carcassonne and Cassoulet at undercut left leading crack. Pull on and head left up nice crack with decent gear and better holds than expected. Mantle to reach large ledge at about 12m, then move right over Carcassonee and Cassoulet past bush and traverse easily (without any gear past the bush) to the base of the 3rd tier. Be wary of choss near the end. FA: Josef Goding & Achim Gross, 2007 | 22m | |||
17 | Carcassonne And Cassoulet
Two pitches of trad adventure squeezed into between the foreboding caves of the 'Ruined Castle'. Starts at polished yellow handcrack at left end of the Second Tier overhangs. Belay in cave halfway up. Step right then up wide layback crack to roof. Traverse out left to finish. FA: Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker, 2006 | 35m | |||
15 | Flanked
Start on rib as for 'Alexius' but continue up this with wide crack on the left. When it gets a bit tricky step right slightly and up horizontals to ledge. Step left off ledge back onto wall and up this for 8m to big ledge and belay. FA: Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker, 2007 | 25m | |||
7 | Unknown
Quick way to the top if you have a trad rack! FA: Pete Donald & Jackie Colhan, 2006 | 10m | |||
Out to Lunch Wall | |||||
19 | Alice's Restaurant
Takes roof line at left end of stunning orange wall. Up slab to overhang, over this then step left to small corner. Up to roof-line which is followed rightward, then up. Double ropes useful for avoiding drag. Rap off tree. FA: Keith Lockwood & Steve Monks (alt), 1991 | 30m | |||
27 | ★★ Completely Out to Lunch
Takes centre of orange wall.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Steve Monks (alt), 1991 | 40m, 2 | |||
22 | ★ In Praise Of Idleness
Start: Start at the crack in the middle of the wall.
FA: Louise Shepherd & Tim Day (alt), 1991 | 40m, 2 | |||
21 | ★ Zaphod Beeblerox
The large corner system right of the orange wall. Start below twin corners that lead up to the terrace below the main corner.
FA: Keith Egerton, Kevin Lindorff (alt), Kieran Loughran. Loughran & Watling previously climbed the initial corner in., 1981 | 55m, 2 | |||
Number 1 Creek Valley The Snack Bar | |||||
15 | The Muffin Man
Start directly below the right end of the red wall. Climb just right of the pale water streak. Continue up arete left of black corner, moving right ot awkward finish above corner. Rap from tree as for "Stretchmate" FA: Michael Hampton & Rhyl Shaw, 1991 | 42m | |||
21 | Slap & Tickle
Pocketed face right of prominent corner above platform hakfway along wall. Up, a little left at overlap, then up on diminishing holds. Right to terrace and tree. FA: Glenn Tempest & Michael Hampton, 1991 | 18m | |||
17 | ★★★ The Bagman
Wall right of "Slap & Tickle". Steeply up and right, then up on good holds. FA: Glenn Tempest & Michael Hampton, 1991 | 15m | |||
25 | ★ Bulgy Face (project)
| 18m | |||
16 | Stretchmate
At the right end of The Snack Bar is an obvious crack. Follow the crack until it becomes a gully then move right and climb the front of the easy buttress. Rap off trees. FA: Michael Hampton & Peter Woodfield, 1991 | 45m | |||
Number 1 Creek Valley Tortoise Wall | |||||
18 | Done To (Golden) Darth
Climb the weakness to the overhang and move right to the arete. Up to ledge and walk off. Start: At the left-hand side of the wall is an orange recess. This climb was originally called 'Golden Gaytime'. FA: Michael Hampton & Peter Woodfield, 1991 | 25m | |||
23 R | Me Old Mate Darth
Bold, with a crux close to the ground with a nearby tree ready to puncture your kidneys. Start on the left side of an arete at the left side of the cliff, 10 metres left of the flake of Aimless Blade. When over the bulge, reach right and climb straight up the wall above. FA: Kevin Lindorff (solo), 1983 | 35m | |||
24 | You're Busted
Seamed corner right of "Me Old Mate Darth", then wall to overlap. Step right onto slabby dish and up. FA: Glenn Tempest & Michael Hampton, 1991 | 30m | |||
16 | ★ Aimless Blade
Start: Start at right-leading flake towards left side of cliff.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Gary Wills, 1981 | 45m, 2 | |||
15 | ★ Misdirected Minds
10m R of Aimless Blade (was mistaken that that route on the FA) Climbs the vague blocky flake that ends after 10m. Then reach L and climb the wall above to Abseil tree. A direct finish through the prow might be possible? FA: Lachlan Milne & Rory, Jan 2024 | 20m | |||
17 | Hot Cross
Climb face a couple of metres right of the wide crack. When the easier slab is reached, drift leftish to tree. Start: Start about 25 metres right of "Aimless Blade" ata wide crack. FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman Easter, 1988 | 25m | |||
21 | ★ Blunt Force
Tackles the nice Arete L of Little Escapes. Gear is slightly fiddly, but adequate. Start up the shallow juggy corner. Go R around roof and straight up blunt arete. Escape L at the top and up to abseil tree. FA: Goshen Watts, 17 Dec | 25m | |||
16 | ★★ Little Escapes
Obvious orange corner starting off a ledge, just a few metres right of "Hot Cross". Up technical corner to middle of roof and traverse easily left to stance. Scramble off left to rap tree on Hot Cross. There was originally a second pitch up corner and bulge but it adds little value. FA: Kieran Loughran & Peter Watling, 1981 | 35m | |||
17 | ★★ The Voyage of Vasco Pyjama
A whimsical journey. Start 3 metres right of "Little Escapes" at a thin line just left of arete. Thin line then step right to shallow corner on arete. Up corner to ledge just right of large roof. Step left above the roof (?large cam handy) and climb leftwards up the face. FA: Kieran Loughran & Ian Anger, 1985 | 35m | |||
12 | Have I Ever Told You
Enjoyable. Start just right of Vasco below a crack. Up to and up crack. Over bulge and easily up to a ledge. Now straight up wall above. Move left and up to finish. Going direct to the tree at the top goes at about grade 17. FA: Meg Sleeman & Kieran Loughran, 1988 | 35m | |||
19 | ★ Don't Mention the War
Up the middle of the wall of the descent gully. Could be done in one pitch. 32m Abseil from higher tree lands you at the head of the descent gully.
FA: Alt., Bernie & Goshen Watts, 12 Mar 2022 | 40m, 2 | |||
22 R | Just In Passing
Bold in parts but escapable. Start 3 metres right of Have I Ever Told You, 2 metres left of the head of the gully. Go straight up the wall to a horizontal break below a thin seam up a smooth slab. Traverse 3 metres right along the break then go up the face via a scary rock-over. Continue directly up to obvious right-leaning corner. Climb corner and step left. Hard moves up shallow diagonal groove and then go straight up the wall. FA: Kieran Loughran & Ian Anger, 1985 | 40m | |||
16 | ★ Soft SheIl
Thrilling pitch at head of descent gully. Climb the left edge of the slab to a tree. Bridge short corner behind tree to ledge. Hand-traverse right to the undercut arete which is followed to the top. FA: Kieran Loughran, Heather Phillips & Stephen Burke. Easter, 1985 | 35m | |||
8 | Hatehakea
Juggy wall just left of the creek. Start at shallow corner by creek and climb just left of the arete. At the big ledge move left and continue to the top. FA: Michael Hampton, Jeff Robertson & Rhyl Shaw, 2000 | 30m | |||
24 | ★★ The Boys That Were Naughty
An entertaining problem with an exciting finish; cruelly stolen from Ferret. Start at the steep flake on the left side of the overhanging wall left of the obvious chimney/cleft. tart up the flake and finish up the thin seam. FA: Simon Mentz & James Falla, 1989 | 15m | |||
24 | Up Through the Down Door
Somewhat contrived. Bridge the cleft right of Bad Boys for a few moves then traverse left along the horizontal (peg runner) to finish as for Bad Boys. FA: Glenn Tempest & Stuart Imer, 1991 | 15m | |||
20 | ★★ Turtle Diary
Funky 3D climbing is both unnerving and exciting. Thin crack/seam at edge of chimney cleft, 3 metres left of Tortology until it meets the cleft. Heave around right and up. FA: Greg Aimer & Christine Freestone, 1993 NA: Geordie Webb & Jessica Mcmahon, 20 Jan 2018 | 15m | |||
23 | ★★ Tortology
Quite thin climbing up a steely-grey "slab". Take lots of small wires. Thin seam up grey face right of chimney-cleft. FA: Kevin Lindorff, Keith Egerton & Kieran Loughran, 1983 | 25m | |||
19 | ★★ Tortoise
The enjoyable vague arete 6 metres right of the chimney-cleft to the terrace. Originally done as two pitches but pitch two is rarely repeated and is described separately (Turning Turtle) There is a rap anchor above YTTDF FA: Ed Neve & Gary Wills, 1981 | 25m | |||
20 | Turning Turtle
This is the exciting but rarely done second pitch of Tortoise. Start at the belay at the top of Tortoise. Move right and up to the right side of the distinct prow. Traverse left below the prow and up the corner above. FA: Ed Neve & Gary Wills, 1981 | 25m | |||
23 | An Other
Contrived route with some bolts just right of "Tortoise". FA: Geoff Little, 2000 | 25m | |||
25 | ★★ Yurtle the Turtle
Sustained and intricate climbing on the immaculate wall right of "Tortoise". Climb the best bit of the wall past a bolt then veer left to easier ground. FA: James Falla & Simon Mentz, 1989 | 25m, 1 | |||
26 | ★★ Yurtle the Turtle Direct Finish
Used to be graded 27, it is probably easy for 26. The obvious finish to this great route. Instead of veering off left after the first bolt continue straight up past a second bolt. Both bolts are new (2012) and there is a rap anchor above. FA: Steve Monks, 1993 | 25m, 2 | |||
24 | ★★ Turtle Master
Direct start to Snail and improves the line immensely. Takes 3 FH left off the ledge and up to join the line (wires and small cams required). FA: Goshen Watts, 17 Dec | 20m, 3 | |||
19 | ★★ Snail
Good first pitch. Start: Start at short chimney with rotten chockstone right of the smooth wall. 2nd Pitch ascends a difficult R leading diagonal line visible just R of prow.
FA: Ed Neve & Gary Wills, 1981 | 50m, 2 | |||
18 | ★ Slug
Again, a good first pitch and vaguely described second pitch. Start at the chimney as for "Snail".
FA: Ed Neve & Gary Wills, 1981 | 50m, 2 | |||
20 | ★ Everything's on Fire
Start at ramp 8 metres right of Slug. Gain the right-leading flake by a traverse left from the easy ramp. Up the line and exit vertically to the belay ledge. FA: Kieran Loughran, Stephen Bourke & Heather Phillips. Easter, 1985 | 25m | |||
17 | ★★ Floaties
A very fine pitch. The unpopular second pitch is written up separately. FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran & Kevin Lindorff, 1983 | 25m | |||
22 | Floaties Part II
The original second pitch of "Floaties" is much harder than the first and is not popular though it's not too bad. Start on the ledge a few metres right of the belay on "Floaties", beneath the right-hand end of the roofs. There used to be a stump hereabouts. FA: Kevin Lindorff, Kieran Loughran & Keith Egerton, 1983 | 25m | |||
Number 1 Creek Valley Cloggy | |||||
12 | ★ The Good Soldier
Pleasant. Climb the easy-angled corner from the very bottom. Near the top, keep to the outer edge of the chimney to avoid loose rock. FA: Kieran Loughran, Peter Cunningham & Peter Watling, 1980 | 40m | |||
15 | Black Marsupial Lion As An Established Rumour
Start just up the slope from The Good Soldier. Climb the arete 2 metres right of the corner for 15 metres to a small overhang. Move right beneath this overhang for 3 metres then climb the wall to the top. FA: Peter Treby & Andrew Walker, 1982 | 35m | |||
14 R | ★ Lightning
Nice climbing. The right-leading crack just right of Black Marsupial Lion As An Established Rumour fades out after a while. Continue up the wall with poor protection to the next crack and follow it. FA: Peter Watling, Peter Cunningham & Kieran Loughran, 1980 | 30m | |||
14 | Roobarb
Steep but with big holds. Immediately below the Maiden Ecstasy buttress are Steep but with big holds. Enter the crack right of Lightning from the right and follow it. FA: Peter Cunningham, Kieran Loughran & Peter Watling, 1980 | 25m | |||
Number 1 Creek Valley Cloggy Maiden Ecstasy Buttress | |||||
12 | ★ Cataract Corner
The big corner on the right side of "Ripple Wall", some distance right of the other climbs. Climb the big corner to a ledge. Take the crack in the right wall until it rejoins the corner and continue up. FA: Peter Cunningham & Peter Watling (alt), 1987 | 61m | |||
14 R | The Late Show
Unattractive and serious. Start a few metres right of "Sunset Groove" ata short flake-chimney just right of the boulder.
FA: Peter Watling & Alan Hope, 1982 | 64m, 2 | |||
11 | Sunset Groove
Climbing on unusual rock up the most prominent groove on "Ripple Wall", starting near a large boulder that almost blocks the ledge.
FA: Peter Watling & Peter Cunningham (alt), 1980 | 70m, 2 |