Routes as trad in Harrop Track

Hand crack finishing in bulge at left end of wall.

Thin line 1.5 metres left of Damsel In Distress. Direct finish remains to be done.

Pull through undercut start and up line to BR. Exit right up Damsel In Distress

Major line on right of wall.

Overlap start and up line through 2 bulges. Up cleft and chimney.

The amazing LH rising traverse starting at ground level 15m from the start of the cliff and finishing at the DBB above Extreme Ironing! Take all of your cams, and some of your mate's! It is yet to receive a continuous ascent. The grade of pitch 2 is the subject of some debate in the range of 20-22.

Start: Starts at ground level 15m along from the start of the cliff

1. 20m (21) Climb the well protected rising diagonal crack /ledge system awkwardly to the DBB above Black Iron.

2. 24m (21) Traverse left along break to 'Incarceration' DBB. Eats cams up to #3.

3. 6m (14) Keep traversing left across from 'Incarceration' to the DBB of Extreme Ironing!

Right facing hand crack. 15m left of Iron Awe. Up right hand crack, then traverse left to DBB lower off.

nice climbing At the black streak left of Iron Awe. Power up the black streak to the DBB.

Up right leaning crack system over the technical bulge and up to the break. Traverse to the DBB above Black Iron

Start: 5m left of Black Iron

At the back of this pinnacle there is an unfinished bolted

project (3 FHs).

Do not climb this route as it still needs more bolts.

Follows the major line of the cliff. Originally led in one long pitch. The second pitch has three or four aids (No.1 and 2RPs) to a big bucket, and then sustained free climbing to the top.

There is a DBB at the end of the first pitch.

Start: 12m left of Permanently creased.

1. 16m (23) Straight up the lovely orange corner on perfect 'Grampians' rock. There is a DBB at the end of the first pitch.

2. 29m (- M2) The second pitch has three or four aids (No.1 and 2RPs) to a big bucket, and then sustained free climbing to the top.

Since Michael O’Reilly snapped the crux hold off, this route is one or two grades harder.

Start 4m left of Incarceration at the yellow streak. Climb the easy flake and clip the bolt. Rock up with difficulty, using the small gaston, and climb up to the fingerlocks and technical layback. Go into the nice jams and up to the jugs. Finish easily up the wide trench to the DBB.

Climb this sandy crack system directly to the horizontal undercling and fingertip layback of Ironside (crux). Finish as for 'Iron Side'

to the DBB.

Start: At cracks 3m left of Extreme Ironing!

Just keeps getting harder.

Starts 4m left of Extreme Ironing! After the easy start, climb the weakness & crack system on the left of the arête to the mantle and stance just before clipping the bolt. Don’t pump out too much holding the horizontal undercling before stepping right to position yourself for the fingertip layback (crux). Finish up to the DBB as for Extreme Ironing!

The original climb on the cliff. Starts just left of Iron Side. Climb the major hand crack and corner above the ledge, belay below the ledge. Walk to the lower tree at the edge of the cliff and rap.

20m left of New Wave Old Hat, start at the right hand crack. Starting off a rock cairn up and left to finish at sling above Iron Filings.

Good old style climbing. Middle of the three cracks, just left of Pet Willow. Climb up to sling lower off.

Nice climb for gym bunnies. At the left corner crack. Up the left corner crack. Then carefully step right at blocky section. Then up to lower off as for Iron Filings.

3m left of Angle Iron at the toe of the buttress.

P1 (16m, 20) Head up right edge of grey buttress. At steepening step right to follow thin crack through bulge. Up left then carefully up through finger like rocks to belay on ledge (bolt + wire). P2 (12m, 22) Small wires/RP’s to get started. Blast up strenuous crack with bomber gear. Hanging belay on left (large wires). Descent: Either scramble/slide down wide sloping ledge to the rap anchor for New Wave Old Hat, or top out and walk off the back of the cliff to descend down the western end of cliff.

Better than it looks. The corner 2 m left of Robbed. Up corner 2m left of Robbed, over bulge and left onto ledge. Walk left to rap point above Iron Lung.

The corner with a steep start, 7m left of 'Jaffle Iron'. The grade allows for fiddly protection through the crux. The blank section

at 4m is avoided by moving left, then rejoining the line, to a ledge at 8m. Traverse left 5m to finish up 'The Weight'. A better finish would be directly up over the improbable orange bulges from the middle of the traverse. Rap anchors above 'Iron Lung'.

Start: 7m left of 'Jaffle Iron'

Crack climbing on lovely orange rock. Start as for The Weight (4m left of Iron Age)

Climb the easy orange corner to the middle crack and directly up to the top and rap anchors.

Up 'Iron Lung' for approximately 6m and left below bulge and

up the left hand crack.

Start: As for 'Iron Lung'.

The crack right of the right-hand arete of the outcrop.

His block.

Go up the right-hand arete of the outcrop, step left at the bulge and up the line.

Initial difficulties ease.

The thin crack splitting the outcrop

Superb jamming. Slightly dirty exit doesn't really detract.

The crack at the right-hand side.

A pretty good route up the middle of the wall, Bouldery start then traverse right and up to lower off

Short bouldery section past RB.

Leftmost thin diagonal, 6 metres left of Give Me AIDS

A good mixture with jamming and technical face climbing.

Start on the left wall of the descent gully at a hand-crack in a black face.

Climb the crack up the black face to a ledge (belay possible). Continue in the shallow corner which fades out below the final exciting bulge.

Path of least resistance left of "Not Raving But Climbing" and right of the arete right of "Wimp's Picnic".

Why bother?

Start: Start at hidden chimney 30 metres left of Not Raving But Climbing.

Chimney to roof. Step left and up rib to chockstone. Bridge up and finish up left wall.

A classic at the grade.

The centre of the face left of Wimp's Picnic

Enjoyable as long as you don't fall off.

Start: Start a metre or so right of "Twentieth 'Century' Black Feral Cat".

1. 20m (16) Head diagonally right to the ledge and bushes halfway up the right arete of the wall

2. 20m (8) Up the arete, as for "Black Feral cat, An Undeniable Truth".

The arete left of "Keiph Ledgerton", starting up a crack on the left. At the overhang make a brief detour onto the left wall.

Classic climbing up the middle of the black slab. It gets an R rating due to a few exciting runouts, although gear shows up when it's needed - except for the final moves from which you do not want to fall off.

Has fragile face-climbing with no protection. Basically superseded by the later routes on this face.

Start as for Fried Tent Dwellers

Climb the crack of Fried Tent Dwellers to a bush. Continue up the face for 5 metres then climb diagonally left to the top.

Start on the face left of and at right-angles to Twentieth Century Black Feral Cat at a crack.

Follow the crack past a bush and on to a tree near the overlap (belay possible). Continue through the overlap an up.

Great face climbing on a smooth wall.

Start 3 metres left of "Fried Tent Dwellers".

Tricky start leads to a ledge and shallow corner. Up corner to BR and up the obvious water streak past another BR.

Something of an escape from Seaweed Gorillas.

Start as for Seaweed Gorillas.

Up past first bolt on Seaweed Gorillas then move left to a crack on the arete.

A good, sustained climb.

Start: Start at thin crack just right of the arete left of "Irish IUD"

1. 20m (19) Up the thin crack until able to move left to a flake-line on the arete. When the flake ends, traverse left to the base of a crack in the centre of the wall and a tiny stance.

2. 35m (20) Up the crack with some hard moves when it thins down and leads diagonally left. Either top out and walk off or use RCB rap station (28m to ground).

A superb piece of rock but tends to be a bit damp after rain.

The crack up the wall 15 metres left of Not About Heroes.

Currently ('24) quite vegetated, could do with a clean up

Intermittent cracks in the wall right of the corner.

Corner to cave. Now either abseil off, wander carefully off right or continue up unpleasant off-width.

Start: Start amongst the trundle craters below the major corner.

Reported as dangerously loose by the FA party.

Start: Start below a large roof which is a prominent feature of the crag (VRG)

1. 35m (5) Up the line to a perched boulder. Back off a little and go up the right-hand crack to a large ledge on the right.

2. 35m (5) Climb up to the roof. Back off a little and traverse right instead and finish up the wall right of the roof on awesome jugs.

Up seam 5 metres left of F!ush, then right to twin cracks and so to gum tree.

Trench climbing par excellence.

Start: Start at the right-hand side of the major horizontal break that "Grease Nipples" traverse from the left..

Up wall, steeply at first then easily to a ledge at 8 metres. Step left and continue up the steep wall.

Start: Start at foot of knobbly wall on right of scungy corner.

Climb up to ledge at 8 metres then move 3 metres right and climb crack-line running between left chimney and right arete.

Start: Start as for 'Fillet De Boeuf'

Marginal pro.

Start: Start on grey wall 25 metres right of 'Petit Dejeuner'

Not sure whether this should be under 'Mt Pox' or 'Slander Gully'.

Start: Follow track to knobbly, steep wall 100 metres right and upstream from Gastronomique Wall.

From middle right of wall follow a series of cracks vaguely left to headwall.

Excellent route. Double ropes essential.

Start: Start just left of bivvy cave.

Start: Start just where the track emerges from the bivvy cave area.

Start: Start on right side of bivvy cave wall, a few metres left of the first chimney/chasm.

Great for the grade.

Head left up staircase to arete on wall right of chimney/chasm. Steep corner to small roof, then right to headwall.

Start: Start at wall 4 mtres right of "Roll Over, Oates"

Start: Start on left end of ledge off rocking block.

Thin, steep crack up blank wall with good gear. Start 2 metres left of Snow Cat Rock 'n' Roll.

1. 20m 23 Left-leading pumpy crack with difficult reachy move at fixed wire to ledge.

2. 30m, 18 Straight up middle of wall on good jugs but spaced gear.

Start: Start at undercut wall 3 metres left of prominent undercut corner.

Swing left over bulge to ledge as for "Pox Trot". Step right and up rounded arete to finish on ledge. Abseil from sling or do further 30 metres of easy climbing (?Scabs On Heat)

Start: At the nose at left end of left wall of grotto, where the descent track meets the wall. Committing moves up thin crack, move right and up overhang for five metres, veer left with easier climbing to the top. Continuing straight up makes for a more sustained finish.

Short with lack of protection, watch for loose hollow block at the start. Very ordinary.

Start In the middle of the second tor down from Bug Powder Dust. Climb past loose block up shallow unprotected crack.

Straight up block on rounded jugs left of the arete. Tricky move at the end to gain ledge. Easily accessed from the descent gully.

Start: 5m left of the bolt on 'Bug Powder Dust' ledge.

Variant finish to Bug Powder Dust.

Starts at the BR off the ledge, as for 2nd pitch of Bug Powder Dust. Climb the left side of the pale central streak directly through top bulge. Swing right to top out (or continue straight up for a more exciting finale). Blackness courtesy of the previous week’s Vicparks “controlled burn” (and it's a quote from The Commitments).

Can be done in 2 pitches, belay from the large ledge at half way. May add another bolt.

Start on the left of the grey arete.

Follow 2 BR to ledge (possible belay). Straight up past another bolt for 6m then step right to finish up juggy arête. Anchors to descend to the right on top of The Extension Lead or walk off back.

Start: Just right of 'The Generator Route'.

Up past 3 FH's and wires to horizontal break. Arrange gear then right up to 4th FH. Thin moves over bulge brings some relief and good pro in seam. More hard moves over small roof to buckets. Traverse left to belay.

The original route on the cliff."Hal Todd would be proud of this. The Del Monte of climbing." (Edited version of original description)

Start: At the line that splits the wall.

Climb crack, at the overhang, traverse right and finish up the right hand crack. Some loose rock. Take twin ropes or long slings, could be done in 2 pitches, with a belay at the end of the traverse.

A scary girdle traverse on friable rock.

Start: At sandy cleft right of 'Night Owl Theatre'.

1. 10m (17) Up sandy cleft with no runnners.

2. 25m (17) Crux, step across left, around arete, gingerly down and continue left to the welcome ledge.

Absorbing climbing directly up the arête to the highest point on the buttress. Double up on small wires, a few small cams are handy, despite appearances protection is good.

Starts in the chasm 15m right of Curiosity Killed The Black Feral Cat

Up the steep fracture for 8m and finger traverse leftwards 3m to rest on the grey arête (belay possible to eliminate drag). Then directly up the grey arete.

Follow Lynx Effect for 8m to where it traverses left. Arrange gear and launch straight up on crimps. Watch your back on the wall behind if you fall.

Continue directly up grey wall.

Start: Start as for Lynx Effect.

Stretch Your calves before you start.

Start: Starts 5m right of 'Cat Scratch Fever' at end of chasm.

Bridge up using crack for protection and traverse right at the top of the big chockstone.

Novelty climbing through overhang, lack of protection at start.

Start: Runs up centre of the wall at the top of the grotto through the orange overhang.

Up edges on slab to stance below overhang, veer left then up to anchor.

An entrant for the worst of the worst... Crappy line, dodgy rock, ground fall potential, its all here.

Start: Left of corner on the track before Paler Shade of White just past the big log.

1. 17m (22) Unprotected hardish moves on dodgy holds lead to jugs at overhang where the gear is not good and the moss begins. Continue to belay at big ledge. Smell the roses.

2. 8m (19) Continue up left side of orange wall via a most awkward slopey mantle off the deck.

Bold climbing leftwards along the rising traverse. Double ropes are useful.

At weakness 6m left of Traditional Arrangement.

Climb leftward along rising traverse. A small wire can be found, low down, two thirds along the traverse. Continue up the easy arête to finish at the large ledge. Climb off around to the left or right to Moonlight Wall.

Harder than it looks.

Start: At the right leaning hand/fist crack in middle of the wall at ground level.

Follow the crack to the large ledge at half height. From here you can access the next 4 climbs.

Will clean up with traffic.

Starts on the ledge at FH 2m left of 'Controlled Burn'.

Up to shallow corner to rap anchor.

Climb left past bolt then right to gear placement. Committing climbing to top on slopey bulges. Take small cams and wires.

Start: Starts below the bolt in the middle of the face.

Climb directly up the wall, to the left end of the small ledge at half height. Follow the short corner/flake and exciting wall above.

Start: Starts approx. 2 to 3m right of bolt on 'Controlled Burn' and 4m left of the right arête.

Climb upwards diagonally right to the right end of the small ledge at half height. Follow the horizontal breaks to the small overlap/rooflet near the right arête. Committing moves directly up the wall above (crux).

Start: Starts as for 'Moonlight Mile'

Good traverse leads to great final crack.

Start: Start under the huge block that leans against the left edge of the wall, 15-20 metres right of

1. 10m (9) Climb up through a hole to the top of the block and then up to terrace.

2. 15m (19) Traverse right along the brek to the vertical line and up a couple of moves to a hanging belay.

3. 10m (20) Crack to top.

Wide corner on left side of bushy alcove a few metres right of where the old pad straight up from Waterworks Track reaches the cliff.

Start at the arete 2 metres left of "GT Stripe"

1. 10m (16) 'Arete' then wall, exiting left of a large boulder onto large ledge.

2. 15m (12) Up the right edge of the main face.

Start just left of where the old track meets the cliff and just right of an empty bolt hole.

Follow a corner crack through a roof then a face from a terrace.

Start: The next gully to the left has two corners on the right side. The right-hand, short corner.

Climb the corner and finish straight up the wall. A variant finish at the same grade is to move left into the left-leading diagonal.

A lovely climb.

The elegant sloping corner just left of Sweet Thursday.

A classy arete but fiddling in the protection is scary.

Start as for Sundae.

Up Sundae for 8 metres and move out left to the arete and up.

Start at a tree at the base of the left wall of the Sundae gully.

Climb the wall for 10 metres then move up left to a large ledge. Climb the arete on the right.

Amusing start and a good continuation

Start 10 metres left of the Sundae gully at an undercut corner.

Pull into corner and up it and easy chimney.

Start a few metres left of Copybook, just left of the centre of the wall.

Climb the wall until just below the left edge of the big roof. The arete on the left to an exciting finish.