Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Trad | |||||
12 | Oils Wells
Lovely, varied climbing which makes rising traverse through right side of the Olive Cave. Chimney to bottom R side of cave. Rising traverse up left through cave to its left arete. Short, steep wall on good holds. (Descend gully immediately to left.) FA: David Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1996 | 35m | Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area | ||
16 | Who Shot the Sheriff?
Diagonal crack left of HFAM. FA: Peter Stevens & Stephen Hamilton, 1988 | 10m | The Black Range | ||
18 | Holler for a Marshall
Direct up wall between WSTS and AAA. Small edges but no tree. FA: Stephen Hamilton, 1988 | 10m | The Black Range | ||
14 | Aiding and Abetting
Right angled corner. FA: Matilda Schmitt & Karen Allchin, 1988 | 10m | The Black Range | ||
11 | ★ Royal Commission
Fantastic little climb, with plenty of small to medium gear. Follow the most obvious crack line on wall. Belay bolts service this climb, which are around 5 metres back from the top of First Offence. Climb seeps water when wet. FA: Graeme Smith, 1991 | 12m | The Black Range | ||
14 | ★ Detective Inspector Bribe-easy And Police Constable Porno
Belay bolts service this climb, which are around 5 metres back from the top of First Offence. FA: Ant Keilig & david singleton | 10m | The Black Range | ||
19 | Crime Story
3m right of 'DIBEAPCP'[12978997]. Belay bolts service this climb, which are around 5 metres back from the top of First Offence. FA: david singleton & Ant Keilig | 10m | The Black Range | ||
12 | The Chair
| 10m | The Black Range | ||
17 | TCU
| 10m | The Black Range | ||
22 | ★ Bring In The Accused
| 10m | The Black Range | ||
23 | Pleading Insane
| 10m | The Black Range | ||
20 | Jail Bait
| 10m | The Black Range | ||
19 | Shoot On Sight
| 10m | The Black Range | ||
23 | Night Stalker Gets Gas Chamber
| 10m | The Black Range | ||
22 | ★ Snapper Crack
"An exciting climb which is guaranteed to leave your forearms screaming. It takes the right leading crack about 15m right of the descent gully. Up the slab and into the crack. Jam your way to stance under roof, then finish up pumpy wall past fixed pegs." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs). Home of an active bee hive as of May 2020. FFA: Chris Peisker & Coral Bowman, 1978 | 25m | The Black Range | ||
23 | ★ So What's the Verdict?
"Varied and interesting climbing on rock that is reminiscent of Arapiles. Start 3m right of Snapper Crack. Up the slab, then up an awkward seam. Continue diagonally across and up wall till a couple of hard moves bring the overlap to hand. Finish up tiring wall." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs) FFA: Glenn Tempest & Stephen Hamilton, 1988 | 20m | The Black Range | ||
8 | Settled out of Court
| 12m | The Black Range | ||
16 | ★ Settled out of Court Direct Finish
| 20m | The Black Range | ||
16 | A Brush With The Law
| 15m | The Black Range | ||
13 | ★ Please Be Seated
Crack with a small cave at its base. | 15m | The Black Range | ||
13 | Rumpole
| 15m | The Black Range | ||
15 | ★ Ipso Facto
| 15m | The Black Range | ||
23 | ★ Slanderous Discourse
Start up the attractive sickle-shaped crack just left of the yucky chimney descent, follow holds left at the break to a thin seam (microwires); then a desperate move back R to finish straight up. If you keep stepping L to finish up arete, it's a reasonable 22. FFA: Parrish Robbins, Glenn Tempest & Stephen Hamilton, 1990 | 14m | The Black Range | ||
14 | ★ Minor Offence
| 15m | The Black Range | ||
14 | ★ Habeus Corpus
"An interesting variant start to Bagatelle. Takes the low angled crack in the grey slab 5m left of Bagatelle before moving right and finishing as for that route." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs) FFA: Bob Connell, Keith Lockwood, Rein Kamar & Ben Sandilands, 1972 | 27m | The Black Range | ||
15 | Hard Labour
| 25m | The Black Range | ||
12 | ★ Bagatelle
"Start at the corner system near the right end of the grey, lichen covered slab. Initialled. Follow the left crack and finish up the left hand corner." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs) FFA: Peter Watling & Sebastian Rainer, 1972 | 27m | The Black Range | ||
15 | ★ Bail Refused
"A slightly tricker finish to Bagatelle. Up Bagatelle then follow the right hand corner/ crack to the top. Beware of loose rock on the stance below final off-width." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs) FFA: John Chapman, 1978 | 30m | The Black Range | ||
25 | ★★ Sheep May Safely Graze
"This superb climb tackles the attractive orange rock passing three bolts, immediately right of Bagatelle. Unfortunately the second bolt is poorly positioned and might be preferable to pre-clip it with a sling before starting." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs) FFA: Lincoln Sheppard, Chris Peisker & Louise Sheppard, 1988 | 25m, 3 | The Black Range | ||
23 | ★★ The Willows Milkbar
"The wall 4m left of Mr Meaner has a couple of lines with common start. Move left into curving flake and turn the bulge at its left end." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs). After moving left from 'Murder One', this route manages to stay independent of its neighbour, despite appearances. FFA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981 | 25m | The Black Range | ||
23 | ★★ Murder One
"This companion route to The Willows Milkbar offers interesting climbing up the thin right leaning seam before finishing with an amusing mantle over a small overhang." FFA: Simon Mentz & Stephen Hamilton, 1988 | 25m | The Black Range | ||
22 | ★★ Mr Meaner
"This alluring arete is a committing lead and is a popular top rope problem. Don't forget your RP's. Up the wall and arête 5m left of Short Term." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs). The first gear is reached at about 4m, consisting of crappy RPs and a tiny crack where you can finally use those cams you bought for aid climbing. Climb another 4m or so above this before reaching your next gear. Alternatively, enjoy the route on top rope and walk away. FFA: Glenn Tempest & Paul Daniels, 1981 | 25m | The Black Range | ||
20 | Short Term
"The mean looking, black crackless corner, starting from the terrace." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs) FFA: Neil Parker, Rod Young & Kim Carrigan, 1979 | 15m | The Black Range | ||
10 | Breakout
| 19m | The Black Range | ||
17 | Blunt Instrument
| 12m | The Black Range | ||
24 | ★★ Pudgy
"What on earth has this name Pudgy got to do with legal stuff is anyone's guess. Desperately thin wall climbing which is also a wee bit committing up high. Up the wall with the ring bolt, 5m left of Caveat Emptor." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs) FFA: Lincoln Shepard & Chris Peisker, 1988 | 25m | The Black Range | ||
24 | ★ Caveat Emptor
"This tricky face climb was originally led by Richard Smith without the bolt. It was placed shortly after by Louise Shepard who was unaware of Smithy's ascent. The arete just left of Barbed Tongue." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs) FFA: Richard Smith & Glenn Tempest, 1988 | 25m, 1 | The Black Range | ||
17 | Barbed Tongue
Initialed faintly. Start at small corner with the twin cracks left of Red Tape. Climb corner to triangular roof and continue up right line to top. FFA: Chris Dewhirst, Bob Connell & Rein Kamar, 1972 | 23m | The Black Range | ||
19 | ★★ Barbed Tongue Direct Finish
"This route offers excellent and sustained bridging. Start at the small corner with the twin cracks, just left of Red Tape. Faintly Initialed. Climb the corner up to the triangular roof and continue up the left line to the top." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs) FFA: Chris Peisker, 1977 | 23m | The Black Range | ||
26 | ★ Red Tape
"I suppose being the hardest route on the cliff gives it some status. From the flake (loose rock) 2m right of Barbed Tongue, climb the wall past two bolts." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs) FFA: Matthias Pausch, 1990 | 20m, 2 | The Black Range | ||
23 | ★★ OK, I Confess
"I'm sure Chris and Glenn have plenty to confess! A fiery number up an unlikely and poorly protected line. Follow the crack which becomes a gnarly closed seam 8m left of "The Jury Box" (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs) FFA: Chris Shepard & Glenn Tempest, 1982 | 20m | The Black Range | ||
11 | The Jury Box
"Squirm up the old fashioned crack and chimney. Initialed" FFA: Ian Ross, 1972 | 21m | The Black Range | ||
23 | Life and Death
"Not long after the first ascent of this route, Mark wrote a thought provoking article called, 'Life and Death: a Climbers Guide.' It was especially poignant as it was written just prior to his death on Makalu in the Himalaya. This route however isn't quite in the same league as his other creations. Start on the arete immediately right of The Jury Box. Up and across to the bolt, then move back left and finish straight up the arete." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs) FFA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1982 | 25m, 1 | The Black Range | ||
21 | ★★ Zuma
"A surprisingly technical tips crack. The thin, overhanging crack 5m left of Prosecutor." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs). FFA: Chris Peisker & Nic Taylor, 1976 | 25m | The Black Range | ||
24 | Divorce Proceedings
"An entertaining problem that tackles the bulging wall between Zuma and Prosecutor. Scoot into the final hand-crack of Prosecutor to finish." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs) FFA: Glenn Tempest, Stephen Hamilton & Malcom Matheson, 1990 | 20m, 2 | The Black Range | ||
18 | ★★ Prosecutor
Initialed. Undercut crack providing sustained jamming. There was a cam (BD C4 #0.3) stuck in the crux May 2016. Don't bother trying to retrieve it - it has a broken trigger wire, so pulling the release does nothing. FFA: Keith Lockwood, 1972 | 27m | The Black Range | ||
18 | Fatal Attraction
| 30m | The Black Range | ||
24 | ★ Life
Start is 2m left of Decree Nisi. Up short crack to bulge onto bolt. Easier face climbing above. FFA: Kim Carrigan & Neil Parker, 1979 | 25m, 1 | The Black Range | ||
16 | ★★ Decree Nisi
Faintly initialed. Nice corner with tree near the top. Clean climbing with a mixture of bridging and face climbing. FFA: Bob Connel & Rein Kamar, 1972 | 25m | The Black Range | ||
17 | ★ Unfit to Stand
Variant start to Decree Nisi which starts 5m right. Onto flat top the follow lines curving left into Decree Nisi. FFA: James McIntosh & Melanie Taws, 1988 | 25m | The Black Range | ||
20 | Caught Short
Starts as for Unfit to Stand. Up for 5m then follow right flake. Keep going right then up wall past bolt. Beware of dangerous block. FFA: Chris Cope & Jenny Benson, 1980 | 25m, 1 | The Black Range | ||
17 | ★ Gallows Pole
Takes the left crack underneath the "toilet seat." Follow greasy crack to top. FFA: Rein Kamar, Laurie Lovelock, Tony Amiconi & Peter Watling, 1972 | 27m | The Black Range | ||
18 | ★★ Chancery Lane
Takes right crack up through the "toilet seat." Well protected. FFA: Keith Lockwood & Michael Stone, 1972 | 27m | The Black Range | ||
17 | ★ Final Appeal
| 30m | The Black Range | ||
23 | ★ Crime of Passion
Start a few metres left of Objection Sustained. Up through a small overhang, then the loose line to the cave. Push through last overhang and up to the top. FFA: Glenn Tempest & Marty Beare, 1983 | 20m | The Black Range | ||
21 | Haley Beth
| 35m | The Black Range | ||
18 | ★★★ Objection Sustained
Initialed. Excellent route following steep intimidating crack. Start 6m left of camping cave straight up the overhanging crack. Crux is near the final bulge overhang. Protection is fantastic the whole way, sucking up red and yellow BD Camelot's. FFA: Ian Ross & Dave White, 1972 | 21m | The Black Range | ||
22 | Traversity Of Justice
Start as for Malicious Intent and follow the corner until the overhang. Traverse left to gain the overhanging arête and follow the thin crack to the top. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009) FA: Glenn Tempest & Seammus Brennan, 1981 | 20m | The Black Range | ||
21 | ★★ Malicious Intent
Start on the left side of the cave. Climb the broken corner to a ledge, then pull over an overhang to a guano- stained ledge (loose rock). Up the steep crack to a horizontal break on the left wall, and then crank for the top. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009). To help protect rock art in the cave, when starting the route it is requested that you avoid the black overhung offwidth crack, and instead use the easy broken handcrack an arm span to the left (I think we can be pretty sure that this is the way that everyone has climbed this route since the beginning of time, and this start doesn't need to be written up as a different route). FA: Ian Ross & Rein Kamar, 1972 FFA: Kevin Lindorff, 1975 | 23m | The Black Range | ||
14 | Malicious Intent Variant Start
| 8m | The Black Range | ||
23 | ★ No Rest for the Wicked
To protect rock art, it is requested that this route not be climbed. | 27m | The Black Range | ||
23 | Jump for Joy
To protect rock art, it is requested that the first pitch of this route not be climbed. The second pitch can still be climbed (easily traverse in from 'Malicious Intent'), and the description from the 2001 Grampians Guidebook remains accurate: "Up the bulging arete past a really shitty bolt up high". 2 carrots. | 22m | The Black Range | ||
24 | ★ In The Cooler
To protect rock art, it is requested that this route not be climbed. | 23m | The Black Range | ||
21 | ★ Legal Aid
From the right side of the cave, hurl yourself at the undercut line which is initialled. Continued up the line, hand traversing left beneath a roof near the top the last part is a tad reachy. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009) FA: Keith Lockwood, 1972 | 27m | The Black Range | ||
20 | The Hanging Slab
As for Legal Aid but traverse right past a bolt. FFA: Stephen Hamilton & Glenn Tempest, 1990 | 10m, 1 | The Black Range | ||
19 X | ★★ Power Without Glory
Requires tube chooks or some other form of large protection. Tackles the sickening cleft not far right of the camping cave. Up chimney, then up the overhanging off-width via laybacking and the occasional face hold. (The chockstones described in the Mentz/Tempest guide are no longer present.) FFA: Nic Taylor & Andrew Thomson, 1976 | 23m | The Black Range | ||
16 | Power Without Glory Variant Start
| 12m | The Black Range | ||
19 | ★ Carnal Knowledge
Start 5 metres right of Power Without Glory at the thin line above the undercut start. Chin the roof on good jugs, then step right and up into thin line to the cave. Move up the right and onto the arête (dubious protection). Finish up short wall. It's possible to traverse a further 2 metres right before heading up, but this is probably trickier. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009) FFA: Peter Watson, Kevin Lindorff, Glenn Tempest & Jim Grellis, 1977 | 28m | The Black Range | ||
18 | In Session
6m right of Carnal Knowledge, where the rock can be reached to the left of the scalloped wall. Pull up and left to the orange line. Up into the cave and a bolt belay. Inspect the bolt before use. FA: | 16m | The Black Range | ||
22 | ★ Guilty
Start below a loose cracked arête left of Subpoena. Heave up and follow the thin line, steeping right at the top. Finish boldly up the blunt arête. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009). Despite this route being written up as having "a scary finish", you can place about as much gear as you like before lurching up the finishing moves. FFA: Chris Shepard & Glenn Tempest, 1982 | 20m | The Black Range | ||
23 | ★★ Law and Order
Thin seams on left wall of Subpeona with just enough gear. By the time you get to the guano soaked holds, you will be wishing that someone had scrubbed them clean for you first. After the guano, step right to finish up 'Subpoena'. FFA: Chris Shepard & Glenn Tempest, 1982 | 20m | The Black Range | ||
17 | ★★★ Subpoena
50m or so right of the cave is a striking corner. Initialled. There is frequently an active beehive over the lip near the top. They were quite active 1st April 2016. FFA: Ian Ross & Rein Kamar, 1972 | 21m | The Black Range | ||
20 | ★★ Hang On
Bold climbing up the wall 8 metres right of Subpoena. Up to ledge, (where protection is available) and continue to the cave. Step left and finish up the wall passing some loose rock along the way. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009) FFA: Kevin Lindorff, Glenn Tempest, Peter Watson & Jim Grellis, 1977 | 20m | The Black Range | ||
21 | ★ The Hanging
As for Hang On to the stance below the curving crack. Step right and up past a peg runner to good holds on the bulge above. Into the cave right, then up. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009) FFA: Glenn Tempest, Jim Bott & Stephen Hamilton, 1988 | 20m, 1 | The Black Range | ||
18 | ★ Call the Next Witness Please
Up the red strip on good in cut holds to a small stance. Move right and up to the overlap, then back left and pull through. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009) FFA: Stephen Hamilton, 1988 | 15m | The Black Range | ||
20 | Call the Next Witness Please Direct
| 25m | The Black Range | ||
20 | ★ Mitigating Circumstances
Start standing on a detached pinacle, then wander up the blunt arete and through the overlap at the finish, with sparse pro and uninspiring rock. FFA: Andrew Corlass, Peter Campbell & James Falla, 1986 | 20m | The Black Range | ||
10 | ★ False Pretences
The small (initialled) corner 3 metres right of Mitigating Circumstances. FFA: Mike Stone & Keith Lockwood, 1972 | 15m | The Black Range | ||
16 | ★ The Enquiry
The wall right of False Pretences is broken by a distinctive curving crack just left of a crappy gully. Up this crack then straight to the top. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009) gear tricky. Two Belay bolts on top. FFA: Jack Lewis & Andrew King, 1988 | 16m | The Black Range | ||
24 | ★★ Legal Eagle
Tackles the attractive wall about ten metres right of The Enquiry. Up the left line with some intricate climbing past a bolt. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009) FFA: Glenn Tempest & Stephen Hamilton, 1988 | 15m, 1 | The Black Range | ||
21 | Doing Time
Climb the face 1 metre right of Legal Eagle to the base of the greenery, then right to the juggy arête. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009) FFA: Stephen Hamilton & Glenn Tempest, 1988 | 15m | The Black Range | ||
16 | Acquitted
4m left of Press Gallery, on the next buttress left. Up through the bulges direct. FA: Steve Hains, Martin Lama & Marie Malony, 1991 | 12m | The Black Range | ||
17 | Press Gallery
Climb the small wall 2m L of On Probation. FA: Peter Stevens, Karen Allchin, Geoff Butcher, Tracy Power, Gary Schmitt, Matilda Schmitt & and the usual cast of thousands, 1988 | 12m | The Black Range | ||
10 | On Probation
The wide crack. FA: Iain Sedgman, 1976 | 12m | The Black Range | ||
18 | Operation Mindcrime
Start 2m R of On Probation. Hard start, then up the centre of the dished wall. FA: Martin Lama & Graeme Smith, 1991 | 16m | The Black Range | ||
17 | ★ Petty Sessions
Start up the undercut arete 3m R of On Probation, past a bad BR, then up the enjoyable arete. FA: Geoff Butcher, Stephen Hamilton, Peter Stevens & Glenn Tempest, 1988 | 18m | The Black Range | ||
17 | Petty Sessions Right Hand Variant
Up Petty Sessions to the BR, move 2m R, up wall and over short LH corner. FA: Martin Lama & Gunther Zippel, 1990 | 18m | The Black Range | ||
15 | ★ Stool Pigeon
Initialled. Ugly corner. FA: Keith Wadsworth, 1972 | 15m | The Black Range | ||
21 | ★ The Long Arm of the Law
Start at the base of the arête 3 metres right of Stool Pigeon. Up the arête without runners (grade 17) to a stance below the immediate overhang. PLace a couple of big cams then swing out to the lips on pockets and big holds. A final heave and it's all over. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009) FFA: Geoff Butcher & Stephen Hamilton, 1988 | 20m | The Black Range | ||
11 | ★ The Dock
Unappealing corner. Starts to the right of The Long Arm of the Law. FA: Keith Wadsworth & Monica Slattery, 1972 | 15m | The Black Range | ||
17 | The Dock Roof
Take 'The Dock' to the roof and continue through the obvious crack. FA: Philip McMillan, Peter Manley & Neil Phillips, 1979 | 20m | The Black Range | ||
24 | ★★ Itchy Fingers
This climb tackles the smooth steep wall starting 3 metres right of The Dock. Up the flake then onwards past two bolts to the top. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009) FFA: Glenn Tempest & Stephen Hamilton, 1988 | 15m, 2 | The Black Range | ||
23 | ★ Scumbags of All Sorts
Up Itchy Fingers to the first bolt and then move right almost to the arête. Finish quickly on improving holds. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009) FFA: James Falla & Tim Rogers, 1987 | 16m, 1 | The Black Range | ||
23 | Salubrial Incandescence
| 15m | The Black Range | ||
16 | Roger Mellie, Your Man on Tellie
| 10m | The Black Range | ||
10 | Arresting the Sheriff
On the west side of the block in front of Salubrial Incandescence. Layback moves to start. FA: Matilda Schmitt (solo), 1988 | 10m | The Black Range | ||
10 | The Judges' Verdict
| 15m | The Black Range | ||
14 | ★ G.B.H.
"Interesting and thought provoking climbing up slabby rock. Start 3m right of horrible chimney at rightward curving crack. Move up and left to faint crack, follow this until it fades, then step right and up." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs) FFA: Keith Egerton, 1976 | 20m | The Black Range | ||
21 | ★★ Loitering with Intent
"The crack and unlikely bulge immediately right of GBH. The name says it all." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs). PS nobody these days can explain how "the name says it all". | 20m | The Black Range | ||
23 | Persona Non Grata
Blunt arête past 2 FHs to half height then traverse way L into Prosecutor to finish. FFA: David Blennerhassett & Darren Keenan, 1989 | 25m | The Black Range |