Routes in Amnesty Wall Area

Popular but awkward climbing.

Start: Start 5m L of 'The Flying Emu'.

This is one of the easiest sport routes in the 'Grampians' to be partially protected from rain.

Start: Starts below the overhang three metres left of the large chimney chasm to the left of Float Like A 'Butterfly'.

Links 'The Flying Emu' into 'Float Like a Butterfly'.

Sustained steep climbing on big incuts for most of the way. One of the driest routes in the Hollow Mtn area, until the last few metres. One grade harder than 'Sting Like a Bee' and one grade easier than 'Amnesty International'. Start: Furthest left route on the main pocketed wall, with RB's. Watch out for the ledge fall potential up high due to the block on the left.

Climb the overhanging sharp crack system, then a great juggy headwall. Stick clip 1st bolt.

superceded by direct. Original wandering line best forgotten

traverse left from 3 bolt on tyrants past 5 U's to anchor.

One of the best grade 22 sport routes in 'Victoria', even though the start is very close to being a retrobolt of CWT. Seeps heavily in the dead of winter, although the key holds can be dryer than they look. Rebolted and extended 2017

Start: Starts 3m right of 'Sting' Like A Bee on small ledge.

During or after rain a waterfall tumbles over the cliff directly below the Crankstart Amphitheatre. If it isn't flowing, start climbing! The newer sport routes on either side have effectively retrobolted a fair portion of this route.

Start: Starts a metre to the right of 'The Tyrants Grasp' but on the ground level.

Just right of waterfall

Starts as league of Nations, Goes into UN, then finishes as good fight direct. Some linkups are pretty lame, but imho this is f#cking ace.

Very bouldery crux section involving a long series of painful pockets.

Start: Ringbolted route 3m right of 'Chinese Water Torture'. Establish in 2001, an ascent by German hardman Andy Hofman grade 8a - 8c as not sure on Aussie grades! Recent ascentionists suggest 32 after repeated attemps by some very strong climbers.

Fantastic boulder sequence to finish off a great route.

Another fantastic sport route that was once fully trad.

Start 3m left of Amnesty International, to a prominent horizontal break, then steeply up a pocketed crack to the final horizontal break. Clip the last bolt of the direct finish, step right and finish as for Amnesty International (optional gear, such as a green camalot and a 10ish wire for the finish).

The good fight.

Start: Start 10m right of 'Chinese Water Torture' at the incipient corner.

Eat your spinach for the top!

Bloody hard finish which can be done two ways.

Start: Line of FH's up black seam just to the right of 'Amnesty International'.

Easy sport arete. The first half was originally climbed on trad (and called No Fixed Gear) and was later accidentally retrobolted and renamed 'Amnesia'.

Start: You can't miss this overbolted slabby arete just right of 'Freedom Fighter'.

One move wonder up the middle of the pillar.

Best of the three finishes, extending the route up the far right arete.

Start: From the half way rap chain on 'Amnesia' head up right through overhang and up right side of pillar past many more FHs.

Easy choss crack climbing.

Start: Start beneath the right side of the 'Amnesia' Pillar.

1. 20m (13) Up mossy slab for 5m to roof. Skirt right under this for 3m. Up wide right facing chossy mossy flake to belay on ledge behind pillar.

2. 25m (13) Up the orange wall to traverse right until able to move up the guano covered pillar. Continue right to jugs and up.

Wandery arete and ledge climbing on suss rock.

Start: The arete just right of 'Amnesia'.

1. 15m (15) Up the right side of the arete, side runner at 5m, to the cave.

2. 10m (15) Up the flake on the left side of the arete to the top of the pinnacle. Cross over to the main cliff and finish up 'Private Investigations' (a tyrolean traverse should not be required).

Wall climbing mediocrity.

Start: Located about 10m left of the chimney on north facing grey wall that sits at a 90 degree offset to the main cliff.

Start at the very left end of the main wall, below and immediately left of the hanging right-facing flake-corner (Western Ayatollahs). Climb up a short flake to clip the first fixed hanger then up the short, shallow, overhanging, right-facing corner to a bridging rest at the second hanger. Tend up right then up the knobbly overhanging face past another five fixed hangers to the rap chains on the ledge about 5m below the top of the cliff.

Start: Start at the steep flake on the left side of the wall. Up the flake to traverse right 5m at the obvious horizontal, then the line above to the top.

Start 3m right of 'Western Ayatollahs' at a short, shallow, left-facing corner. Take some medium cams and wires for placements between the bolts. Up the corner past a fixed hanger. Pull up right onto the shoulder and move up past the second fixed hanger to the horizontal break. Straight up the orange wall past three more fixed hangers.

The original, and still one of the best. Take a normal trad rack.

Starts at the thin seam with a fixed hanger.

Excellent, varied climbing up the dominant line on the proudest section of this wonderful wall. The spectacular and exposed finish is the icing on the cake. Take a reasonably full trad rack. Climb the first 6m as for 'Crank Start' to the obvious horizontal break. Move a metre right into the line and follow this up to surmount the rightward-leaning pillar to a seat beneath the final headwall. Move past a fixed hanger and around the little roof, then clip the next fixed hanger and make some spectacular moves up and right around the lip of the summit roof.

Old school trad wall climbing. Some of the rock is a bit fragile in places.

Excellent gymnastic climbing with crux sections at each of the three fixed hangers. Straightens out 'Pass Laws' and adds a direct finish. Take some trad gear to augment the fixed protection. Start as for the bouldery start of 'Pass Laws' then, instead of the little shimmy left, up and right, head straight up past the second hanger to the obvious traverse line. Continue up directly, past the third hanger.(Upgraded from 24 to 25)

Starts about 3 or 4 metres right of 'Pass Laws'. It is easy to stick clip the first hanger if you so wish. Pull into the grey scoop and out right, then up to the big horizontal break (RB). Through the bulge, past a fixed hanger (crux) and up past four more. A few wires are handy to protect the top.

Starts about 3 or 4 metres right of 'Sendero Luminoso' and a couple of metres left of the easy stuff. Up the wall past a fixed hanger to the horizontal break. Move a couple of metres left to a pocket and head up immediately right of this through the bulge past a second fixed hanger. Trend left to join 'Sendero Luminoso' at its fourth bolt and follow that route to the top.

A great climb that deserves more ascents.

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Private Investigations', from the boulder.

Better than some and worse than others. The second pitch is nice.

Start: Starts in the bushes 5m down right of 'No Fixed Address'.

1. 15m (16) Up steep initial wall via a horizontal break, then up ledge (small tree on left) and a slabby arete to a mega-ledge.

2. 10m (16) The big corner at the back of the ledge.

A landmark stunning layback.

Start: This left facing ultra wide corner crack is hard to miss.

Delicate slabbing and one of the best long beginner routes in the area. A slight variant of this route was claimed as Swiss Cheese 47m 14 by Richard Morris in 1986.

Start: Starts 5m right of 'Layback' And Think at left end of slabby wall.

1. 16m (13) Up the thin slab (crux with marginal gear) moving left towards the arete. Pass the left side of small tree via thin right leading crack to belay below a slight bulge. You can link this pitch with the 2nd pitch on a 60m rope for a good long adventure.

2. 40m (10) Follow the left leading juggy crack for 10m, up the wall above for another 10m passing a wide crack then straight through the small overhang to large belay ledge with bollards galore.

3. 30m (7) Follow your nose up easy jugs to the top. This pitch is pretty crappy. Best to just bail off left or find the rap slings and descend.

A good slabby line but a little mossy in places. Protecton can be fiddly to find and place in certain sections.

Start: Starts about 10m right of 'Paperclip' on ledge accessed by scrambling up under chockstone.

Looks more intimidating than the original.

Start: Start as for 'Orange Blossom Special'.

Variant middle to 'Orange Blossom Special'.

Start: From the block at the base of 'Orange Blossom Special', traverse about 2m out left then straight up via yellow streak to join Orange Blossum Special at the left end of the roof. A #5 hex protects the high crux.

Struggles to stay away from the jugs on the left. Another pleasant slab but has silly bolting with huge runouts.

Start: Starts 5m right of 'The Wide Crack Adventure', but on top of ledge accessed via chockstones under block. You can also start as for 'The Wide Crack Adventure' and head rightwards at 5m.

Runout slab climbing.

Start: Start as for 'The Pregnancy Factor', but follow the flake for 2m more past the dark rock then straight up on good turtle shell rock just to the left of the BR on 'The Pregnancy Factor'.

A splitter line from afar which seems to have been un-recorded for some strange reason. Another good beginner route.

Start: Starts 3m right of 'Paperclip' below striking wide crack line blasting up slab.