Ascents in Loopeys having Beta

I think in the newer guide this is listed as 'Hot Henry' really good climb - scared the beejeesus out of me at the top, no way was I gonna let go!

Good fun - bit of a throw in there the way I sent it, made it harder than it needed to be??

im assuming this is three sleeps being regraded, as it's a a V1 until you get to near the lip with slopy rails you try and find anyway to skip.

Fun boulder, very gym like. Used my height and skipped that sharp as pocket out right though.

I dont have enough bouldering experience to say with any certainty but i am not convinced this is a V4. When compared to the middle and right side cave problems, this was rather easy.

Excellent. Fall is not nearly as bad as it looks.

Correct name is Three Sleeps I believe. Sandbagged at V1 - but thats what it's all about!

Tricky at v3, but once you know the moves its no harder in my opinion.

Probably the hardest line in the cave.

Nice slopertastic!

Nice if you love steep crimper.

Warm up

So sick!! Landing isn't that bad if you have a few Boulder matts and a couple of trusty spotters. The perfect line

Guide says V1 but there must be some holds that have broken since, or I'm missing some funky beta. I think the V4 grading here is a bit over the top though. I'd say V3 at most.

Done a while ago. A nails first move leads to easier climbing.

fun!

funky

Ja man!

Ja man!

Mixed up the sequence but still sent it

Short but fun moves!

Pretty good manteling practice close to the ground!

sure-ive-dunnit-before

Brilliant problem

loving the pinches, fun little roof climb.

Committing lunge to gain the big hold on the roof.

Couple of ways of doing it. Sack up and do the dyno!

Lots of body tension through the roof.

Found knee bar beta accidentally. After a quick pants swapping, and it was quick. It definitely felt like at least a V4.

Tougher than it first looks

Different exit this time, more central. Good fun.

Really fun!

Easy warm up, not a V2

Soft at v2.

Very cool problem.

Fun.

Nice warm up.

Warm up

Fun for bare feet!

Really love this problem and this cave in general. Did it seven times

Not bad - I was struggling with the top tho!

Got this one second go which is weird because I'm far from being a V9 climber. I think the grade is really off. Used left heel in the orange seam for the big move. Still fun!

https://www.instagram.com/deeloc15/p/BvFktjShQ0K/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=xg1kkz6x8qla

Worked out a sequence, then sent first shot. Not as hard as I was expecting it to be.

Surprisingly tricky. Really good.

Wall 2m left of Old Henry's Fun Climb. Up past diag slash to a pair of slopey edges, then long move up right to pocket and jugs

2nd shot - July '04

great! Condition dependent, few shots

Finger tape advised.

Finally connected the dyno! Feels really comfortable when I got the fingers in the pocket just right.

Fun cut loose move to the pocket. Third shot.