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Routes in Amnesty Wall

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Showing all 24 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
Unknown year
23 Sting Like a Bee Direct

Climb the overhanging sharp crack system, then a great juggy headwall. Stick clip 1st bolt.

superceded by direct. Original wandering line best forgotten

FA: Matt Brooks

FA: Michael O'Reilly, Steve Chapman & Rob Booth, 2007

Sport 19m, 6 Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
23 League Of Nations

Just right of waterfall

FA: steve chapman & yerba crew

Sport 30m, 7 Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
27 Minor Threat (Link-up)

Starts as league of Nations, Goes into UN, then finishes as good fight direct. Some linkups are pretty lame, but imho this is f#cking ace.

Sport Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
23 Amnesia Middle Finish

One move wonder up the middle of the pillar.

FA: Matt Brooks

FA: Matt Brooks, 2001

Sport 25m, 8 Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
27 Freedom Fighter

Bloody hard finish which can be done two ways.

Start: Line of FH's up black seam just to the right of 'Amnesty International'.

FA: Matt Brooks

Sport 25m, 10 Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
21 Amnesia Right Finish

Best of the three finishes, extending the route up the far right arete.

Start: From the half way rap chain on 'Amnesia' head up right through overhang and up right side of pillar past many more FHs.

FA: Dianne Fermio

FA: Dianne Fermio, 2001

Sport 25m, 7 Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
26 Peace Keeper

Eat your spinach for the top!

Sport 23m, 8 Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
1983
13 Private Investigations

Easy choss crack climbing.

Start: Start beneath the right side of the 'Amnesia' Pillar.

  1. 20m (13) Up mossy slab for 5m to roof. Skirt right under this for 3m. Up wide right facing chossy mossy flake to belay on ledge behind pillar.

  2. 25m (13) Up the orange wall to traverse right until able to move up the guano covered pillar. Continue right to jugs and up.

FA: M. Wust & C. Stewart (alt), 1983

Trad 45m, 2 Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
1988
22 R Chinese Water Torture

During or after rain a waterfall tumbles over the cliff directly below the Crankstart Amphitheatre. If it isn't flowing, start climbing! The newer sport routes on either side have effectively retrobolted a fair portion of this route.

Start: Starts a metre to the right of 'The Tyrants Grasp' but on the ground level.

FA: Steve Monks & Chris Peisker, 1988

Trad 35m Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
24 Amnesty International

The good fight.

Start: Start 10m right of 'Chinese Water Torture' at the incipient corner.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Steve Monks, 1988

Mixed trad 40m, 1 Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
25 The Good Fight

Another fantastic sport route that was once fully trad.

Start 3m left of Amnesty International, to a prominent horizontal break, then steeply up a pocketed crack to the final horizontal break. Clip the last bolt of the direct finish, step right and finish as for Amnesty International (optional gear, such as a green camalot and a 10ish wire for the finish).

FA: Steve Monks & Louise Shepherd, 1988

Sport 25m, 9 Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
1993
15 Lost Arrow

Wandery arete and ledge climbing on suss rock.

Start: The arete just right of 'Amnesia'.

  1. 15m (15) Up the right side of the arete, side runner at 5m, to the cave.

  2. 10m (15) Up the flake on the left side of the arete to the top of the pinnacle. Cross over to the main cliff and finish up 'Private Investigations' (a tyrolean traverse should not be required).

FA: James McIntosh & Kevin Lindorff (alts), 1993

Trad 25m, 2 Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
2000
17 Amnesia (aka No Fixed Gear)

Easy sport arete. The first half was originally climbed on trad (and called No Fixed Gear) and was later accidentally retrobolted and renamed 'Amnesia'.

Start: You can't miss this overbolted slabby arete just right of 'Freedom Fighter'.

FA: All trad ascent of first half by Ray Lassman, Keith Lockwood, Dianne Fermi retrobolted the first pitch (2001) & extension Kent Paterson 2011, 2000

Sport 25m, 7 Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
22 The Tyrants Grasp

One of the best grade 22 sport routes in 'Victoria', even though the start is very close to being a retrobolt of CWT. Seeps heavily in the dead of winter, although the key holds can be dryer than they look. Rebolted and extended 2017

Start: Starts 3m right of 'Sting' Like A Bee on small ledge.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2000

Sport 18m, 7 Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
2001
31 United Nations

Very bouldery crux section involving a long series of painful pockets.

Start: Ringbolted route 3m right of 'Chinese Water Torture'. Establish in 2001, an ascent by German hardman Andy Hofman grade 8a - 8c as not sure on Aussie grades! Recent ascentionists suggest 32 after repeated attemps by some very strong climbers.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2001

Sport 20m, 13 Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
23 Amnesia Middle Finish

One move wonder up the middle of the pillar.

FA: Matt Brooks

FA: Matt Brooks, 2001

Sport 25m, 8 Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
21 Amnesia Right Finish

Best of the three finishes, extending the route up the far right arete.

Start: From the half way rap chain on 'Amnesia' head up right through overhang and up right side of pillar past many more FHs.

FA: Dianne Fermio

FA: Dianne Fermio, 2001

Sport 25m, 7 Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
2006
23 Hope of the States

traverse left from 3 bolt on tyrants past 5 U's to anchor.

FA: kp & hawkman, 2006

Sport 22m, 8 Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
2007
23 Float Like a Butterfly

Sustained steep climbing on big incuts for most of the way. One of the driest routes in the Hollow Mtn area, until the last few metres. One grade harder than 'Sting Like a Bee' and one grade easier than 'Amnesty International'. Start: Furthest left route on the main pocketed wall, with RB's. Watch out for the ledge fall potential up high due to the block on the left.

FA: Steve Chapman, Michael O'Reilly & Rob Booth, 2007

Sport 24m, 5 Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
20 The Flying Emu

This is one of the easiest sport routes in the 'Grampians' to be partially protected from rain.

Start: Starts below the overhang three metres left of the large chimney chasm to the left of Float Like A 'Butterfly'.

FA: Rob Booth, Michael O'Reilly & Steve Chapman, 2007

Sport 18m, 6 Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
23 Sting Like a Bee Direct

Climb the overhanging sharp crack system, then a great juggy headwall. Stick clip 1st bolt.

superceded by direct. Original wandering line best forgotten

FA: Matt Brooks

FA: Michael O'Reilly, Steve Chapman & Rob Booth, 2007

Sport 19m, 6 Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
22 The Flying Emu Bar and Grill (link-up)

Links 'The Flying Emu' into 'Float Like a Butterfly'.

FA: Michael O'Reilly, Rob Booth & Steve Chapman, 2007

Sport 25m, 9 Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
2008
20 Raquel's Roadhouse

Popular but awkward climbing.

Start: Start 5m L of 'The Flying Emu'.

FA: Rob Booth & Jill Gara, 2008

Sport 18m, 4 Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
2012
26 The Good Fight Direct

Fantastic boulder sequence to finish off a great route.

FFA: Kent Paterson, 2012

Sport 25m, 9 Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)

Showing all 24 routes.

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