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Wet in rain
This is the huge towering orange wall directly above the Mt Abrupt walking track carpark. On the far left hand side is a wide cave / overhang (unclimbable choss), and on the R of the wall is a steep v-gully. The wall itself is very mossy, but much of the rock is quite solid, with lots of horizontals.
Long, difficult, access has been made slightly easier since the landslides, and a 'track' has been cut through the scrub at the top, so although long and steep, the access isn't too bad... at least until it grows back. Whether the climbing is worth the approach, is another matter; but there is still plenty of unclimbed rock for the adventurous.
Descent from this wall: Rap from a large tree on the RHS of the top of the gully (looking out), down for 35m to another stubbier tree below. Then it's 55m to the base of the wall (will land you at the start of Luftwaffle). Once at the base, it's still an awkward scramble through scrub; but you could do another short rap (to the south side) to get back down to the 'track' or ledge where you can walk along the base of the Northern Wall. Alternatively, if you can carry all your stuff to the top of the cliff, you could walk down the tourist trail, but that won't get you back to the base of the cliff.
Access issues
Not permitted
Natural Values Area 26 Mud-Dagjug
Approach
Steep hike
45-60 min
Start up the summit walking track for several hundred metres, looking out for 2 large boulders on the walking track. 30m past the 2nd boulder, head 15m uphill to another boulder that marks the end of an avalanche gully. Walk straight up this (and into another gully) for about 300m until it ends. A roughly cut track then heads left for a long way, and contains some tricky scrambling sections. Should be mostly marked, with green tape and cairned. When you're more or less under the RHS of the main wall, drop down from the top of a boulder, then walk the rest of the way to the middle of the wall, where the track meets the cliff proper (and the start of 'Civilization').
Ethic inherited from Grampians
Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.
Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.
===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===
Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.
Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.
Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.
Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.
Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.
Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.
Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.
Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.
Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.
Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.
Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.
For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education
History
First visited in around 1990... see the SE Gramps guide.
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Steve Toal
Date: 2019
The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.
Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.
Author(s): Steve Toal
Date: 2019
The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.
Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.
Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons
Date: 2016
ISBN: 9780646955544
"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"
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