Showing all 70 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
9 - 12 M4 | Melanoma
One of the few worthwhile aid routes in the Grampians, with a huge roof at the very top of the cliff. It is written up with the direct start, which is the best way to do the climb. The original start (two pitches) came in to the base of pitch four from 45 metres up the gully to the right via mostly easy climbing and a few aid bolts. It is likely that significant sections of the lower pitches could be freed relatively easily. Using 60 metre ropes could help to run the lower four pitches into two giving a significant time saving on the approach to the roof. Head torches have been found useful in the past. Take 2 bat-hooks and 11 hangers. The climb is about 750 metres from where the main walking track is left, with the final 400 metres being relatively slow. Expect to take between 45 minutes to an hour-and-a-half from the car with packs. Start: Below the obvious line leading to the huge roof at the top of the cliff about 150 metres left of 'Burning Daylight' (400 metres left of Big Chimney). Scramble about 10m up onto a block.
FA: Chris Baxter & Clive Parker (var), 1970 FA: Peter McKeand & Michael Stone (alt)., 1971 | 110m, 5 | |||
20 | ★★ Burning Daylight
The great roof-capped corner down the left end of the cliff is a mixed bag. The main corner on the second pitch is great but the rest of the climb is not in the same class. Start: Scramble up to below a small corner below and just right of the main corner.
FA: Roland Pauligk & Tim Beaman (alt)., 1977 | 140m, 4 | |||
13 | ★ Raw Prawn
Tackles some dramatic territory. Some parties have had trouble following the description but the route has recently been repeated and a logical, attractive first pitch description provided. The topo has been updated to reflect this. Start: About 60 metres left of 'Spelio Pinnacle' and about 10 metres right of a major roof-capped corner (Burning Daylight). Start from blackened white gum tree."I can't imagine any sensible modern climber wanting to scramble unroped up the steep dirty wall below the white gum tree [now stunted and blackened by the fires but still alive]" (Phillip Armstrong).
FA: Michael Stone, Chris Baxter, Geoff Gledhill (var) & Julie Tulloch, 1973 | 110m, 3 | |||
10 | Spelio Pinnacle
Unusual mix of caving and climbing and finishing on a pinnacle to boot! Start: About 45 metres left of 'Toreador' at a chimney/groove. Faint initials SP on left side of crack. There is a nice looking thin seam taking the front of the narrow buttress 2 metres to the right which should help to locate this climb.
FA: Geoff Gledhill & Alan Gledhill (alt), 1968 | 59m, 3 | |||
16 | Toreador
Several sections of good, sustained climbing. Some rounded sandy rock detracts from the overall quality. Start: 45 metres left of Matador where a crack splits a narrow buttress. The climb starts to the L of the buttress where a short section of bushes has to be negotiated to reach the crack [originally graded 13].
FA: Keith Lockwood, Tony Amiconi & Julie Tulloch (var), 1972 | 100m, 4 | |||
17 | Matador Variant Finish
This is a fitting finish to this long overlooked climb. Start on the terrace at the top of pitch four. Move 2-3 metres left to undercut crack at lefthand edge of ledge. Up the crack, following it rightwards on the steep headwall. To get off, scramble back then up and right to reach the walking track. FA: Phillip Armstrong, Matthew Pearce & Peter Cody, 2010 | 25m | |||
16 | ★ Matador
The first 3 pitches are good, exposed and sustained. The fourth pitch is just a chimney and the last is a way off. The grade 17 variant finish is the best way to complete this fine climb. Start: About 130 metres left of 'Big Chimney' at a crack leading to a roof at 10 metres. Clear initial M.
FA: Jerry Grandage, Alec Campbell & Daryl Carr (var), 1966 | 100m, 5 | |||
19 | ★★ Travesty
Excellent thin wall climbing with unlikely natural gear. Small wires are useful. Start: Starts 2m left of 'Hypocrite' just left of the arête. Thin moves up face with occasional holds found on the right arête. Slopey finish just left of Hypocrite. FA: Mike File & Neil Monteith, 2005 | 14m | |||
18 | ★★ Hypocrite
Nice wall climbing on grit like rock. This route had four un-glued u-bolts in place that were removed by hand during the onsight ascent. Very good trad is available all the way up this climb. Bring a full rack to #3 SLCD size. Start: Starts at small orange corner with tiny roof above that sits directly below a rounded arete. Bridge up corner then step right to good thin crack. Up this and onto slopey face above to final 'gritstone' top out and the surprised tourists. FA: Neil Monteith & Mike File, 2005 | 14m | |||
17 | St Vitus Dance
Not Rosea's most attractive climb. Vegetated line 4 metres left of 'Big Chimney'.
FA: Andrew Thomson & Keith Lockwood (alt), 1972 | 87m, 3 | |||
12 | Big Chimney Variant Finish
| 30m | |||
9 R | ★ Big Chimney
What can you say? It's a big chimney, a major geological feature. The second pitch is truly awesome. Most modern climbers will find the crux to be the poorly protected chimney sections rather than the well-protected first pitch. This has traditionally been graded 9 but, as with many old Rosea routes, it is much harder than routes of that grade at 'Arapiles'. Start: Find the landmark chimney, about 60 metres left of 'Dinosaur Gully', 20 metres left of 'Rameses'. There are faint initials BC on the left wall but if you need these to positively identify the climb you should go home.
FA: George Glover, Greg Lovejoy (alt). Variant finish : Greg Lovejoy, Fred Anchell & Steve Craddock., 1964 | 100m, 4 | |||
16 X | The Crock Of Roland
This variant is written up separately so that people know not to go near it. A recent (2010) excursion onto it by a Rosea veteran found it pointless and dangerous, on revolting, steep, escapable rock. Start: Start at the second belay of Crock's Crawl, below the roof. FA: Roland Pauligk, Daryl Carr & Rob Taylor, 1966 | 39m | |||
15 R | Crocks Direct
This collection of variants to Crocks Crawl offers a fairly direct route up the cliff. There is some poor rock, particularly on the top pitch. Start: Start at a crack midway between 'Rameses' and Big Chimnney.
| 97m, 3, 4 | |||
9 R | Crock's Crawl
A very indirect start to a major line. Originally the third pitch was considered the crux but, as with so many of these old routes, some horror-show unprotected chimney sections went totally unremarked. Perhaps modern climbers are just wimps. Start: Start at the large flake-crack as for 'Rameses'.
FA: Geoff Shaw, Jack O'Halloran. Chrs Baxter & Clive Parker added the first pitch, 1969 | 120m, 5 | |||
14 | Crock's Crawl Direct Start
| 28m | |||
12 | Crock's Crawl Variant
| 39m | |||
22 R | Miracles in My Pockets
A sustained route up the wall left of "Rameses". There is some very bad rock in places. Start: Four metres left of "Rameses". There is a cairn of rocks leaning against a tree.
About 2 weeks after the FA, Noddy returned, bolted the problem part, and climbed the route direct. He also went a slightly different way through the small roof. Keith Lockwood, Ed Neve (alt), Norm Booth. FA: James McIntosh & Michael Gidding (var), 1994 | 85m, 2, 1 | |||
20 | ★ Ironstone Excursion
Heady wall climbing, but good rock and interesting moves. Joins into the last 10m of Steep Dreams. Start as for P2 of Rameses - on top of small buttress (best approached by climbing Bintanath). 1) 25m 20. Head up and diagonally L for a few metres, then up juggy ironstone line. At a blank section, move R (L is also possible), and up to optional belay in Pod. 2). 25m 20. Up into the line, which is followed to join the final 10m of Steep Dreams. Could be done in one long pitch. FA: Goshen Watts & Cameron Hickling, 30 Jul 2022 | 50m, 2 | |||
12 | Saturday Special
An early climb here but not a classic. Sort of follows the same feature as 'Rameses' with variations. Start: Start as for 'Rameses'.
FA: George Glover & Greg Lovejoy (alt), 1961 | 130m, 6 | |||
15 | Rameses
Start: At the large flake crack.
FA: Laurie Lovelock, Julie Tulloch, Keith Lockwood & Bill Andrews, 1972 | 130m, 4 | |||
17 | ★ Bintanath
Short, steep crack up buttress 5m R of Rameses, with tricky exit. Note: A Rap Anchor exists at the top of this route. FFA: Cameron Hickling & Goshen Watts, 30 Jul 2022 | 20m | |||
20 M1 | Rise and Shine
A Beaman route with an aid point! The start is ordinary but the second pitch looks sensational. Start: 12 metres left of "One Night Stand" at the left of two cracks just left of overhang.
FA: Tim Beaman, Sylvia Lazarnick & Tony Dignan, 1977 | 130m, 2 | |||
18 | The One Night Stand Variant
| 30m | |||
23 | ★ The One Night Stand
Mostly easy climbing on good rock with two short bouldery sections on pitch two. Originally heavily aided on all pitches in wet conditions and not finished in daylight. Some parties have descended by a 50m abseil from the old bolt at the top of pitch two but this is not advisable. Start: About 30m left of 'Dinosaur Gully' (faded initials ONS) at a weakness below an overhang.
FA: Phillip Gledhill, Geoff Gledhill. Freed : Kieran Loughran variously with Allan Hope, Ian Smith & Bill Andrews. Winter., 1984 | 110m, 3 | |||
16 | The Seventh Lamb
A left-to-right girdle from 'Dinosaur Gully' to 'The Stinger'. Good fun. Start: From the first belay of 'Dinosaur Gully'.
FA: James McIntosh & Alan Hope, 1993 | 55m, 2 | |||
16 | Sloth Direct Finish
| 28m | |||
17 R | ★★ The Sloth
This fine line used to have a reputation as some sort of horror-show with poor rock and protection. This has seen the climb get little attention. Jerry Maddox enhanced the climb's poor image by adding a direct finish that was characterised by dirt and loose flakes. However recent ascents have established that the route is a ripper, especially if the maligned direct finish (as described) is used. A sustained, demanding climb that should be on everyone's Rosea tick-list. Include some large gear and slings in the rack. Start: The chimney 15m left of "The Last Act". Initialled "DG".
It was thought that combining the good first two pitches of 'The Sloth' with the DG DF would give a really great route. However, the linkup is contrived and difficult and it is much better to do 'Sloth' with it's own direct finish. FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter. Direct on Pitch 3: Jerry Maddox & Jim Nelson., 1978 | 89m, 3 | |||
15/16 | Dinosaur Gully Variant Finish
Option to scramble off. From eucalypt overlooking pitch four of Dinosaur Gully, climb on to ramp and go up right to arête. Up, step left at bulge, then finish direct up wall. FA: Steve Hains & Bruce Somerfield, 1992 | 30m | |||
15 | ★★ Dinosaur Gully
This is not as good as used to be thought but still a good, old-fashioned climb with good rock and protection. The final pitch is not very good with the direct finish being a vastly better, but harder option. Doing the first pitch of 'The Sloth' would also improve the climb at no change in grade. Start: Chimney 15m left of 'The Last Act'. Initialled "DG".
FA: John Fahey & Peter Jackson., 1964 | 100m, 4 | |||
17 | ★★ Bubbles - Dinosaur Gully Direct
A quality route of varying styles: the second pitch follows enormous pockets, with the final pitch providing classy positions. Pitch 1 can seep for some time. Old guidebooks have recommended "big gear", but the route needs nothing bigger than size #3 camalot. Linking pitches 1 & 2 is easy to achieve with double ropes (and makes for two excellent 45m pitches).
To descend from the terrace, the first rap is from rings found 10m right (above The Last Act). FA: James McIntosh & Wayne Maher, 1994 | 90m, 3 | |||
23 | ★★ The Edge of Reality
This route started life as an aid route and covers some interesting territory. Unfortunately the first pitch is very dirty. It was cleaned for the free ascent but a soak at the top of the pitch means that it gets dirty very quickly. Also, the section shared with 'Dinosaur Gully' detracts somewhat. The star is for the climb in a clean state.
FA: Chris Baxter, Keith Lockwood (var). Pitch 1 freed : Simon Mentz, Andrew Eastaugh 1988. Pitch 1 variant, pitch 2 freed: Roland Pauligk, Tim Beaman (alt) 24-09-1977. Pitch 4 freed: Simon Mentz & James Falla Easter 1989., 1969 | 100m, 4 | |||
22/23 | ★★★ The Last Act
Awesome line and climbing. Not many grade 22 leaders flash this so it's bumped up to 23. Start: Start below the fantastic corner left of 'The Stinger', 6 metres left of the clear initials CC. Faint initials LA.
Kim Carrigan, Andrew Thomson 10-12-1974. FA: Chris Dewhirst, Ian Guild, Peter Jackson (var). Pitch 1: 2 aids, 2, 3 all aid & pitch 4 1 aid., 1966 | 100m, 4 | |||
19 | ★ The Last Act Variant
Very bold and possibly undergraded. Although the climbing and outrageous position deserve at least a star (and possibly two), this major variation is unlikely to see any/many repeats until it gets a retro-bolt or two. Climb the second pitch of TLA for 3m, then traverse left and diagonally up across orange wall for approx 8m before heading straight up to the belay as for the 2nd belay of the original route. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Glenn Tempest, 1976 | 25m | |||
19 | The Last Act Direct Finish
| 25m | |||
21 R | ★ Curtain Call
The early pitches look good and are reputed to have poor protection but things deteriorate higher up. It is thought that the short bolt ladder at the top of pitch 1 has not been freed. The route is described as done free. It might be advisable to rationalise the pitches a bit. Maybe extend pitch 1 a few metres to the ledge and then run pitches 2 and 3 together. Start: About 30 metres left of "The Stinger" at the clear initials CC
FA: Clive Parker & Chris Baxter (alt), 1968 | 140m, 6, 3 | |||
18 | Curtain Call Variant Start
| 22m | |||
22 | ★ National Acrobat
Sustained climbing at grade 18 up the middle of the great wall left of" The Stinger" before wandering over to a desperate crux up the "Vosaxis" corner. Small wires and RPs are needed. Start: At weakness in wall 5 metres left of "The Stinger"
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Glenn Tempest, 1977 | 120m, 5 | |||
22 | ★ Vosaxis
Fairly irrelevant. Five metres of desperate climbing on an otherwise easy, wandering, long climb. Start: Start as for "The Stinger".
FA: John Fahey & Peter Jackson (alt), 1964 | 130m, 6 | |||
15 R | Drone Bee
A direct finish to 'The Stinger' in a magnificent situation but with some poor rock and protection. Start: As for 'The Stinger' (the major left-facing corner about 10 metres left of 'Vee Wee').
FA: Keith Egerton & Jim Nelson (alt) c., 1976 | 60m, 4 | |||
15 | The Stinger
Good adventure with the well protected crux right at the start. Good adventure but the first pitch crux is now very mossy. There is no way it can be climbed free at 15 in its current state [but it is easy to pull up on a good bit of gear or 2 and avoid that section] Well worth the effort. Start: The major left-facing corner about 10 metres left of 'Vee Wee'.
FA: Fred Kitchener, Peter Jackson & John Fahey. Freed: Peter Jackson, 1964 | 120m, 4 | |||
14 | The Stinger Direct Finish
| 22m | |||
20 | ★ The Magellian Heart
Good climbing out on the buttress rather than in the dank chimneys. The route is now considered grade 20, but it does relent somewhat after the start. Start: Line up buttress just left of "Vee Wee"
FA: Keith Lockwood & Ed Neve, 1978 | 95m, 4 | |||
16 | Vee Wee
Used to be considered some sort of classic but it's not much fun. The exit from pitch two is not for the stout of body. Start: Below huge line festooned with moss and rotten rock. There is a wide crack in the right wall.
FA: Kevin Sheehy & Phill Seccombe (alt)., 1966 | 96m, 3 | |||
20 | Bad Moon Rising
Good second pitch, which originally had a lot of aid, including sky and bat hooks, but otherwise ordinary. The route length appears to be exaggerated. Start: Start as for "Vee Wee".
FA: Geoff Gledhill & Chris Baxter (alt), 1969 | 150m, 4 | |||
17 R | Misspent Youth
Wanders too much and crux is harder and more poorly protected than the rest of the climb. Start: Start as for 'Vee Wee'.
FA: Mike Stone & Chris Baxter (alt), 1975 | 150m, 5 | |||
10 R | Silverband
Wandering and serious for the grade. The start is unattractive and overall it's not very appealing. Start: Start at the left end of the grotty wall left of the big overhang (front of buttress down right from "Vee Wee").
FA: Geoff Shaw & Chris Davis (alt)., 1961 | 170m, 7 | |||
24 | ★★ Bourgeois Blues
A great first pitch up the corner but then the climbing eases dramatically and deteriorates in the second half of the climb. Start: Below the huge corner on the left side of the smooth wall, just right of the large overhang. Clear initials BB.
FA: Chris Baxter, Keith Lockwood (var). Pitch two freed by Peter Lindorff in. First pitch cut to two aids by Tim Beaman & Sylvia Laznarick in 1977. Freed by Kim Carrigan 1978., 1969 FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978 | 130m, 5 | |||
23 M0 | ★ Royal Blues
An attractive seam up a smooth wall to an overhang still has one or two aids on the overhang and should go free to a tall climber. However, as usual the climbing eases off dramatically after the first thirty or forty metres. The aspiring aid climber can view the bathook holes at the start and salivate. Bear in mind that the carrot bolt runners are aid, not protection, bolts Start: Below the obvious seam up the smooth wall.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Chris Baxter (var)., 1969 FA: Mostly free : Steve Monks & Ginette Harrison, 1994 | 120m, 2 | |||
22 R | Twitter and Bisted
Steep wall with a terrible-looking bolt leading to roof and then a lot of easier climbing. Start: Just before the track next to the stops abruptly below a terrible-looking bolt at 4m.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Glenn Tempest & Geoff Gledhill, 1983 | 110m, 2 | |||
20 | Here Comes The Bride
Wandering route starting up 'Cry Freedom' and finishing up what are probably the last two pitches of 'Royal Blues'. Has a hard start and finish but is unlikely to be popular. Start as for 'Cry Freedom'
FA: Chris Baxter & Kieran Loughran (alt), 2001 | ||||
20 | ★ Cry Freedom
Awkward seam leads to lovely crack system that has tantalised climbers for over two decades. At the top move R to small rap tree. Start: Start 5m left of 'Renate' at a seam that marks the right end of smooth orange wall capped by an overhang. FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood, 1994 | 30m | |||
18 R | ★ Renate
Very sustained with mostly OK protection but the third pitch has a poorly protected corner. Expect to find a bit of dirt as it is rarely climbed but it is worth it. Start: Below the major corner about 20m left of Gillian/Ma Cherie.
FA: Bruno Zielke & Chris Dewhirst (alt), 1970 | 90m, 3 | |||
22 R | Nightmare
Savage looking corner leads into overhanging, undercut crack. Looks very dramatic and with lovely rock but first pitch has poor protection and the third pitch deteriorates. Probably worth a star but needs a repeat by a sufficiently strong climber. Start: Smooth wall below a steep left-facing corner about 10 metres left of 'Ma Cherie'.
FA: Tim Beaman & Sylia Lazarnick, 1977 | 90m, 4 | |||
16 R | Ma Cherie
Lovely first pitch but then deteriorates a bit though quite sustained and not well protected on pitch 2. Have given it a star for the first pitch. This was the last of the climbs put up at Rosea by the Dewhirst/Zielke team from 1969-70. Start: Start as for 'Gillian'.
FA: Bruno Zielke, Chris Dewhirst (alt) & Fred Langenhorst, 1970 | 84m, 3 | |||
18 | ★ Gillian
Dramatic line with sustained climbing. You only get the tick if you do all of the climb. Start: Corner 10 metres left of 'Coronary Country'
FA: Chris Dewhirst & Bruno Zielke (alt), 1969 | 84m, 3 | |||
26 | ★★ Coronary Country
The brilliant first pitch originally involved desperate and dangerous aid (M7) on which Noddy learned how to place RURPs. He also placed his first bong in what should have been his first good runner at the end of the crux. However Noddy didn't know how to use bongs so he put it in sideways and carried on in blissfull ignorance. The free version avoids the RURP seam by easier climbing just to the left. Take a full rack from RP 0 to #4 Cam. The upper pitches are much easier so parties abseil after pitch one (bring some tat for the bolts) and it seems that no-one has bothered freeing the second pitch. The third pitch had it's single aid point eliminated at the giddy grade of 10. Start: Start by the column leaning against the cliff.
FFA: pitch 3 Chris Baxter 1980s FA: Keith Lockwood & Chris Baxter (alt), 1969 FFA: pitch 1: Kim Carrigan & Steve Monks, 1986 | 100m, 2 | |||
20 | ★★ Cream
Great face climbing on the first pitch. The scrubby second pitch is avoided by rapping off the slings (looking old in 2022) at the finish of P1 'Coronary Country'. Starts 8 metres right of 'Coronary Country'.
FA: Tim Beaman & Roland Pauligk (alt), 1977 | 90m, 2 | |||
18 | Bushwalking With Gordon
Maybe a good first pitch but the name gives more than a hint of what's on offer. Start: As for 'Cream'
FA: Mark Poustie & Campbell Mercer, 1993 | 90m, 2 | |||
16 | Abednego
Some good climbing but again it's a bit scrubby and doesn't inspire as much as its neighbours for some reason. Start: As for 'Meshach' by the Initial "A", 15m right of 'Coronary Country'.
FA: Bruno Zielke & Chris Dewhirst (alt), 1969 | 87m, 3 | |||
18 | Abednego Direct
May be worth a look. Start: Start as for 'Abednego'
FA: Richard Evans & John Stone, 1984 | 85m, 4 | |||
17 | ★ Meshach
Excellent sustained climbing, especially on the first half. Dirt and bushes detract from the latter half of the climb. Originally done in three pitches. Start: Starts at the letter "A" as for 'Abednego' and takes the right-hand line.
FA: Bruno Zielke & Chris Dewhirst (alt), 1969 | 81m, 2 | |||
18 | Big Boys Don't Cry Alternate Start
Corner/groove 3m right of Big Boys Don’t Cry. FA: Phillip McMillan & Jeremy Boreham, 1997 | 15m | |||
21 R | ★ Big Boys Don't Cry
Fairly good but the start is a bit scarey and there's a dangerous boulder on the third pitch. Maybe take the alternate start and drop the grade to 18. Start: Short smooth corner capped by a roof just right of 'Meshach'.
FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran (var). Alternate start : Phillip McMillan & Jeremy Boreham, 1997 | 90m, 3 | |||
22 | Memories of Provence
Supposed to be good climbing on all pitches. Lovely grey and orange rock on the first pitch. Start: Start at small undercut corner 10m right of Big Boys Don't Cry.
FA: Jeremy Boreham & Phillip McMillan, 1997 | 90m, 3, 1 | |||
16 | The Decameron
The weak wordplay in the name may have been vaguely amusing in the early seventies but even that value has long gone. Avoid it. Start: Start about 5 metres left of 'Shadrach' DS, 12 metres left of 'Shadrach'. FA: Keith Lockwood & Andrew Thomson (alt), 1973 | 63m | |||
18 R | ★ Shadrach Direct Start
Great climbing up an attractive orange groove seven metres left of 'Shadrach', even better with the direct finish.
Independent finish added (climbed in one pitch) by Goshen Watts, 2018. FA: Ian Ross & Barry Noye., 1967 | 50m, 2 | |||
15 | Shadrach
Loose blocks, old bolts and pitons (yum, yum). Some of the rock on the second pitch has the appearance and consistency of granulated sugar. Start: Below left-facing corner with faded initial S
FA: John Moore & Bruce Osborne (alt), 1966 | 75m, 4 | |||
15 | ★★ Out On A Limb
Lovely face climbing, especially with the new start. It's a good idea to reserve two #1 (Red) and one #2(Gold) Camalots or equivalent for above the bolts. Start below the tree at the start of 'Shadrach'. Up immediately left of the tree (originally past right side of tree). Move out right on the horizontal tree-trunk to BR. Climb face right of crack past another BR to tree belay and abseil. FA: Kieran Loughran & James McIntosh, 18 Jan 2015 | 20m, 2 | |||
18 | Margarita
OK face climbing on good rock. Not a bad climb to fill out the day. The start and finish will be dirty . Start: Where the access pad reaches the cliff at a thin seam at the right hand side of a smooth wall. FA: Kieran Loughran & Peter Cunningham, 1981 | 23m |
Showing all 70 routes.