Routes in Grey and Green Walls

Looks elegant but the corner is hideously awkward and difficult to protect. Maybe medium-large hexes would help.

Start: Start at the far left side of the 'Petite Fleur' face beneath the gloomy corner.

A boulder problem that might ease when the R-hand crack is dry.

Start: Start beneath the twin cracks of Watchtower Castle's first pitch.

A tricky start leads to enjoyable climbing.

Start: Start just R of the twin cracks, 15m R of 'Petite Fleur'.

Puts the "F" back into 'Grampians' slabs. Take #1½, #3½ cams.

Start: Start below incipient flake 4m R of 'Petite Fleur'.

Nice climbing. Take large cams. Short people may need cams to protect the start. The finishes of 'Baby Doll' and 'La Balance' have been swapped to give more consistent routes (i.e. they cross each other about three quarters of the way up).

Start: Start a few m L of 'The Walltower Castle' and 4m R of 'La Balance'.

Don't take it too seriously. Most often done these days as the first pitch to Navigator.

Start: Start as for Walltower Castle.

Rising left leading thin face starting off boulder in middle of wall, right of small gum tree. Stick clip first bolt. 2 bolt lower off

start about 4m left of The Great Foaming Espresso Machine/ Shining Path. Stick clip the first bolt. Up past this and two more to a fixed anchor.

Start: Start below and R of the corner, about 8m right of 'Blank Frank'. A devious approach leads to the attractive shallow corner halfway up toward the right side of the wall. Recently retro-bolted with permission of FA. 2-U belay on terrace.

Variant finish to HTTM. Traverse left on pockets under third BR finishing up flake. Please respect the hanging oversized bonsai!

Just right of TGFEM. Up pocketed slab passing 3 FH and finishing up flake on right. Mantle to DB lower off. Please respect the oversized bonsai!

Bouldery.

Start: Start up the ramp R of 'The Great Foaming Expresso Machine', directly below the groove of 'Spillway' (R of a large bush overhanging the top of this wall).

An easy classic. The finishing chimney is desperate and the grade is given for the easier alternative.

Start: Start below the easy corner 20m L of 'Petite Fleur'.

1. 10m (10) Up to the corner and up to terrace.

2. 40m (10) Up to the next ledge, up the steep rock and into the chimney on the R and up to belay at the top of the chimney.

3. 11m (10) Traverse R onto a long ledge, delicate at first with some doubtful rock.

4. 21m (10) Climb the crack/chimney running off R end of ledge or climb face L of chimney(much easier).

5. 30m (-) Easily up.

Forget it. Lots of walking along ledges with a few bits of delicate climbing in between. Take a walking track if this is the best thing you can think of.

Start: Start as for 'The Crank'.

1. 10m (10) As for 'The Crank'.

2. 40m (15) Continue up 'The Crank' until able to traverse R above a bulge past the bolt of 'Sabre' to 'The Walltower Castle'. Move up and R to belay.

3. 40m (15) Go up the water streaks for 6m, then go R and up before traversing R along a ledge to 2 bolts. Descend to the next break and then traverse R to a small stance.

4. 43m (15) Traverse R to 'Sluice'. Traverse R above the overlap until able to drop down to the terrace below 'Navarre'. Abseil off before anyone sees you.

Wanders a bit but offers a lot of good climbing at the grade. The second pitch is excellent, the 3rd pitch and start of the 4th pitch detract, but the steep juggy finish is great. Originally done with a worthless first pitch out L of 'Petite Fleur' and finished up what is described here as the final pitch of 'Sabre'. The final pitch was originally done as 'The Crank' 'Direct Finish'.

Start: Start as for 'Petite Fleur' (see the separate page for 'Petite Fleur' Wall).

1. 15m (14) Climb 'Petite Fleur' and continue up to a large, bushy ledge. (Any other pitch on 'Petite Fleur' Wall will also get you to the ledge).

2. 35m (14) Just keeps getting better. Go up to R-most L-leaning diagonal line. Up this diagonal until it fades, step L to next diagonal and follow it over bulge and on until it fades into a slabby arete leading up R. Make a few exciting moves up the arete then step R and up to long ledge.

3. 15m (12) Traverse L below the overhang into the gully (reverses pitch 3 of The Crank) and belay below a corner 5m up the gully. Place gear to protect your second against a groundfall into the gully.

4. 25m (14) Climb the worrying corner (hollow rock, spaced gear) to a ledge below the overhang. Dangle through the overhang and up the awesome steep wall on huge holds.

A full-frontal assault on the Grey Wall. Relatively unsung, the third pitch is a pretty impressive effort for 1966 and still gives modern climbers something to think about. Large cams are needed. The route originally started up 'Petite Fleur' and finished up 'The Crank'. The finish as described was the original finish of 'Grace Before Meals'.

Start: Start as for 'Baby Doll', 8m R of 'Petite Fleur', 3m L of twin cracks.

1. 20m (18) As for Baby Doll: Step L off boulder and climb face to ramp above 2nd bolt. At top of ramp, clip bolt and move 4m L along break to climb final wall past bolt.

2. 20m (12) Up to foot of R-most of the L-leading diagonals (i.e., the 2nd pitch of 'Grace' Before Meals). Up L along the diagonal for 5m, traverse R for 3m and climb the bulge. Up to a small ledge and old bolt.

3. 21m (17) Climb the weakness above, pretty much straight up the centre of the wall, poor protection at times, to a long ledge.

4. 25m (18) Move 3m L and climb the overhanging wall on chicken heads.Tend a little R on easy ground, then straight up steep wall (#4 cam) to slab and groove to top.

A reasonable route which fills in the space between 'Sabre' and Walltower Castle

Start: Start at the arete just left of P2 of Walltower Castle.

1. 40m (18) Jump start then up slab to FH. Step right then easily up L to next hard bit. Move a few metres left then up to flake. Move right to edge of slab then up over roof to ledge.

2. 25m (18) Pull over roof at giant thread, then head up and slightly left to finish as for pitch 4 of 'Sabre'.

Some good positions but really filthy climbing on the 2nd pitch.

Start: Start about 15m R of 'Petite Fleur', just R of twin cracks.

1. 20m (14) The twin cracks climb nicely despite their normally dirty appearance. Gaining them is very old-school 14, however. Up face for 3m then move L to the L-hand crack. Up the cracks to terrace.

2. 20m (14) Climb the chimney off the terrace to a scrubby ledge. The last part of this pitch is awful.

3. 20m (-) Climb up 4m then traverse L on doubtful flakes out around the arete to the extreme right of the Grey wall. Straight up to ledge. If you bothered to do this, finish up 'The Crank'.

Pointless and dangerous. Take all cams.

Start: Start at the foot of pitch 2 of 'The Walltower Castle'.

Good climbing all the way up one of the compelling features of The Amphitheatre. All cams, with doubles up to 2½. The final three pitches could be cut to two with careful rope, equipment and mental management. The reachy start to the second pitch has been tamed with a cairn, combined tactics would be a preferable solution.

Start: Start as for 'The Walltower Castle'.

1. 20m (19) Up 3m, move R and up, bolt, to ledge. Easy, unprotected slab to tree (as for Blank Frank).

2. 40m (21) Move the belay R 10m to boulders on the terrace beneath short, overhanging wall. Pull up and swing right on horizontal breaks in the initial steep wall, crank up to bolt, then move L a little and go up to large horizontal break. Straight up short wall to R end of long, bushy ledge. Traverse R to line of flakes up centre of face and bolt. Up flakes then slabs to bolts.

3. 20m (20) Up slab, 2 bolts, to diagonal crack leading to main overhang and up to overhang. Pull onto overhang, undercling and layback flake, hand traverse R to rest. Wide step R to semi-hanging belay from cams.

4. 15m (15) Diagonally R up face to ledge that leads across to belay in 'Sluice'.

5. 25m (19) 'Sweet Dreams'.

We've done this variation a couple of times over the last few years but was waiting until we could add a bolt and clean it up a bit. I much prefer this variation to the original desperate bouldery grade 22 crux. We also added a bolt to the belay at the top of this pitch to replace the (now) crappy-looking carrot. If you do The Navigator via this pitch it makes the whole climb grade 21. It starts up the short bottomless orange L-facing corner-crack about 2.5m L of the rap / belay rings and about 6m R of the original cairned start on the ledge. After the corner continue up the clean grey slab (drifting slightly L) for about 12m to the steepening and a bolt. Tricky moves gain the flakes as for the original pitch. Note that this pitch is 32m long and will require a 70m rope if you wish to lower or rap off it.

This long sustained adventure is a classic at the grade. Starts as for the 'The Great Foaming Expresso Machine', which is in the middle of the Petite Fleur Face, L of its central green moss streak. Take a full trad rack (plus double cams) and a bunch of slings. The first and third pitches are sport and don't require trad gear. Every belay is U-bolted. You can climb to the top of the third pitch using a single 60m+ rope (two raps will get you to the ground from here) but you will need double ropes to complete the rest of the route. You'll also need double ropes for the rap descent. The rap descent chains are situated just 15m R of the finish of the climb. This route utilises 'The Great Foaming Expresso Machine' and parts of 'Sluice' and Gigi's Climb.

1. 15m (19) The Great Foaming Expresso Machine is climbed past three rings to a ledge. Two U-bolt belay.

2. 30m (19) Either climb up immediately L of the belay U-bolts (awkward) or, alternatively, step R (much easier) to move left onto the grey slabby wall. Pass a low bolt, then continue up the brushed streak past a second bolt (R-hand streak is Politics of Plenty 18) to move R to a good stance and two U-bolt belay.

3. 15m (19) Slab up the R side of the brushed streak, past four bolts to a good stance under the roof and two U-bolt belay.

4. 30m (19) Traverse 5m R into corner of Sluice. Keep moving R across the wall to gain the big jugs on the arete ('Gigis Climb'). Ascend the arete and thin crack until it runs out (small wires). A couple of awkward moves leads to a bolt. Move on up the gray slab above. A medium / large cam with a long sling protects the friction traverse R ('Sluice') for 4m, then up a short easy crack to a superb belay stance in the alcove. Two U-bolt belay.

5. 15m (19) Up a few moves into the base of the prominent right-curving flake-line. Awkward moves L past a bolt then up easily to a good ledge.

This route utilises 'The Great Foaming Expresso Machine' and parts of 'Sluice' and 'Gigis Climb'.

Start as for Shining Path, following the brushed streak to the right. Committing slabbing with spaced cams to bolted anchors.

An excellent and sustained outing offering well-protected slab and face climbing up the middle of the highest section of the wall. The 21 year-old carrots on the first pitch were recently replaced with glue-ins.

Start: Scramble R up the diagonal ramp near the R side of the Green Wall and back L (best to rope up) to the base of a smooth water runnel (the direct start is grade 22).

1. 30m (18) Bridge delicately up the obvious water-groove (mainly on its L side), past six glue-in P-bolts and a few small to medium cams. Move up L to belay/rappel rings.

2. 30m (20) Up R'wards on jugs, then up past a bolt on the smooth wall. Continue straight on up to the top of the big flake crack. Follow the sustained clean wall past four bolts to the belay/rappel rings below the fifth pitch of The Shining Path. Note that this pitch crosses the old route Drifting and a bolt was placed within reach (permission from the first ascentionist) and does not affect Drifting in any way.

3. 15m (19) The last pitch of The Shining Path.

The first pitch was originally climbed (as two very short pitches) and named Spillway by Gary Kerkin and Michael Stone in 1966, then freed by John Chapman in 1975. The route as described was climbed by Glenn Tempest and Karen Tempest when they added the second pitch in 2024.

Great climbing including 'Spillway' and the best bit of 'Sluice', leading straight up to the apex in the huge overhangs. Take large cams.

Start: Start as for 'Spillway'.

1. 33m (18) Up Spillway's slabby groove with 6 bolts and some cams until the groove ends at a bush, move L to belay.

2. 30m (19) Follow the line up diagonally L to the overhang. Climb the flake overhang and up to ledge on R.

3. 25m (19) Straight up the line, directly through the overhang and continue up the overhanging corner in a sensational situation.

A daunting lead up a beautiful grey slabby wall on perfect rock. Technically only grade 18 or 19 but there is no protection on the crux 8m run-out. This pitch climbs the best and boldest section of the old route Drifting (21). Start at the double ring belay at the top of the first pitch of Spillway. Up the juggy wall to skirt the far R side of the recessed ledge (the major flake/crack line above is Gigi's Climb). Drift R-wards and climb the easy shallow recessed flake. When it runs out, move up L-wards for a couple of metres to a short (200mm), but deep, finger-width crack. Load up with bomber pro and launch off up the superb wall above. You will eventually reach the Shining Path bolt on the arete. Continue as for the the Shining Path (up the slab, traverse R along the foot-traverse [Sluice] and up the short vertical crack to the belay rings below Shining Path's last pitch). Either continue as for the Shining Path (grade 19) or three rappels down (30m, 30m and 10m).

The second pitch is the main attraction. Two sets of cams for 1st pitch.

Start: Scramble up the ramp to a notch. Start from the L side of the notch.

1. 45m (19) 'Steep' wall to ledge then slightly L-ward, keeping to cleanest rock. Step L at about 30m, up then reach L to clip B in 'Spillway'. Move back R and up.

2. 35m (21) Pull over bulge just L of small corner, up corner, L and up to obvious flake. Up to multiple wire placements, up R to another placement. Follow holds diagonally L to finish on arete and belay at L end of 'Sluice' traverse.

A spectacular finish that was done to finish the Sluice/Spillway combination but would be more appropriate as a finish to 'Drifting'.

An historic route but much of the climb is quite easy, it wanders, and the best bits are included in 'Sweet Dreams' and 'Navarre'. Still, it's not a bad climb for parties that want a longish climb with a short, well-protected crux. The nasty version of the final traverse is memorable. Take large cams.

Start: Scramble up the top of the easy diagonal ramp to below the major L-leading diagonal groove/corner, about 15m R of 'Spillway'.

1. 35m (18) L-leaning groove to big slot with hard move at 25m. Traverse R to terrace.

2. 20m (-) Traverse L past bush and up to ledge.

3. 20m (-) Follow diagonal line up L to overhang, undercling and layback R around flake and on up line to ledge on R.

4. 12m (-) Traverse R to terrace. There are two options: either a poorly protected friction traverse R to a better foot-ledge or, move up 3m, traverse easily R and drop back down to end of the friction section.

5. 10m (-) Up L to abseil anchors.

Starting up 'Sluice' , find your way to the crux and go boldly out right through the exciting obvious traverse. Bomber gear, Grand exposure. Climb all the way into 'Green Rope Berets' and top out to belay off Large boulder. Double ropes ideal.

Devious and serious. Strangely, the hard climbing is after the spot that aid was used on the first ascent!

Start: Start from the second belay on 'Sluice'.

Climb direct up the orange-brown streak in the steep wall between 'Sluice' and 'Threadneedle'.

Start: Scramble up to the top of the 'Threadneedle' ramp.

An elegant climb up the line delimiting the R side of the slabs.

Start: Start as for 'Sluice'.

1. 35m (17) As for 'Sluice', the L-leaning groove to big slot with hard move at 25m. Traverse R to terrace.

2. 30m (17) An attractive, diagonal corner rises from the terrace. Either climb the wall L of the corner to start or take the corner all the way to the next terrace.

3. 10m (-) Up L to abseil anchors.

Lovely slabbing. Recently retro-bolted to make it reasonable for people climbing at the grade, but still needs a rack. Grade is likely to drop a little. Start at the top of pitch 1 of Navarre, near the left side of the terrace. Climb over the bulge and go easily up to a water streak. Up streak(FH), mantle (FH), step right and up (FH) to runner at horizontal break. On up face,(#2 cam essential) until almost able to reach corner on R. Instead, move easily out left (FH) and up to belay on Sluice traverse.

An adventure. There are at least 3 ways of getting past the cave. The way I consider best is used in the description and the alternatives are at the end.

Start: Start at the base of diagonal ramp that 'Sluice' and other routes scramble up. For this route, it is probably easier to belay from the ground than to set up a belay at the top of the ramp.

1. 35m (10) Follow the ramp then up the corner that is the continuation of the ramp until able to move R to belay in the large cave.

2. 25m (10) Move out the next hole along from the one you entered by (feels ridiculously exposed) climb the pillar on the L (facing the cliff), with poor protection at first (crux). Continue up buttress to a ledge. Rope drag and communication can be difficulties. (Variants 2a. (10) Instead of traversing R into the cave, continue up the corner and move back R above the cave. Move R-wards to rejoin the route. 2b. Move back out of the hole that the cave was entered from and climb the rib to the R (facing the cliff).)

3. 35m (-) Up a series of walls to another large cave which these days is increasingly frequented by boulderers (Ground Control Caves) so you might feel a bit over-dressed with a rope on!

4. 20m (-) Either traverse L for 10m to rappel anchors or continue to top.

A chasm. The chimney/gully between 'The Green Wall' and 'Taipan Wall'. Lots of scrambling and some roped climbing. The initial chimney often flows with water for long periods after rain.