Routes as boulder in North Grampians

Pretty much as the name suggests.

Links X-Treme Cool into The big flake link

X-Treme cool into 'Desire'

Jump start, left of Body Eater, and dyno towards the lip and top out.

Link 'Easy Does It' into 'Sleepy Hollow'

Starts up 'Extended World' V10, drops down into Wimmel Friedhof V5 and then finishes up 'Gastonia' V8

Takes an extreme line to the right of Cave Man, climbing into that problem's finish.

Start mid-way across Cave Man on the big lip jug (after the crux of the main problem) and climb to its finish.

Start of the far right end, traverse to left using pockets and grooves for hand holds.

(Not the edge at the top) Good for foothold practice.

Start: Sit start on well chalked jug up to gaston hold pushing over the edge.

Sit start on the low flake and climb straight up to top out. Several ways to work on your hands. Well featured problem and you'll wish it kept going.

Crux slab hold may have broken.

Starts on the large jug on the lefthand corner of the block (facing) and traverses right along the sloping lip to a final mantle for the finger pocket up on the slab.

Arete on the right up. Sit start for hard variant.

Start as for French Toast but head to small pockets and up right to top out.

Thought to be much harder than V5.

Sit-start from a jug on the right side working your way up the grooves and top out in the middle.

Use right or left shoulder for V0-. Put your wisdom hat on and enjoy various ways to conquer this problem.

One of the easiest V0 in 'Andersens'. You could use wide area of this face.

Sit start matched on right-facing edges. Move to a gaston then up right to gain a jug and top out.

Definitely gets fear grades, hardest part is the bottom couple of metres. Top is committing, but pretty positive. A decent pad on the upper rock, plus a spotter, makes the move that much easier.

Sit-start at a small, slopey undercling with not much for feet.

Sit-start onto light overhang connecting odd holds.

Sit start matched on little input edges and a sidepull. Climb straight up to top out. Getting your butt off the ground is no easy feat.

Stand start on the left of slab. Follow the flake to the top.

Sit start and climb the line up the right side of the wall using the arete and good holds on the face.

Sit start to the right of Exposed.

Up using the crack. Sit start for hard variant.

Very steep arete on the boulder facing the walking track. Shallow pocket and edge to start, then a dynamic move to a good large pocket/jug, then up arete and onto right face via series of good edges.

Even more committing! The central line up the slab. Technical and scary.

Highball LH arete on the big boulder just opposite the start of the arete climb 'Golden Showers and Group Sex'. Committing.

Start right in the back of the cave and head directly out to the lip, and a very slopey mantle topout. Desperate! Good training for 'Circus Jerkus'...

Steep problem right of the right arete, ending in a mantle. Grade unknown.

Located on the main cliff opposite the Orca boulder. This problem finishes at a break/pockets at a 'judgemental' height. Starts left of 'Woman at Point Zero'.

Problem right of 'The Tunnel' just left of the arete.

Located on the main cliff opposite the Orca boulder. This problem finishes at a break/pockets at a 'judgemental' height. Starts left of 'Feminst Theory'.

Takes the lower arete of the Orca boulder. Walk downhill to the right of 'Wet With Excitement'.

Located on the main cliff opposite the Orca boulder. This problem finishes at a break/pockets at a 'judgemental' height.

Takes a line on the face right of the 'Wet With Excitement' arete.

A big link up. Sit-start as for 'A horse is a horse', then traverse right all the way into the start of 'The Nevin Rule'. Finish up this problem. Route grade of 32.

The obvious challenge right of 'Fairy Head'. Quite committing. Grade?

Start as for the 'Unnamed' V1 then keep traversing the break leftwards to finish up Ross's Problem.

Sit start right of 'Gay Hip Flexor' and traverse left a few moves, then up on jugs through the groove to finish. A couple of fun variants exist straight through the roof here as well.

Start as for 'Butt Gravity' but head directly out to traverseline of Race Eater. Traverse right all the way to the start of 'NSAM' and finish up this.

Link up of 'Butt Gravity' into Race Eater Variant.

The very dangerous problem just right of 'Butthole Surfer' and climbing out to the obvious pockets on the overhanging face above and bad landing (the drop off the terrace).

Start as for the original problem then head left and up through the sloper and edge. Rarely done.

The RH line. Starts on a hold below the sloper traverse line then gains this and heads right via some small crimps, slopers to eventually finish up the V1.

Uhuru channel

Resides on the walk-in track to 'Spurt Wall' - just before the 'tunnel' (beneath the 'Taipan' route 'Invisible Fist').

Sit start and climb the right diagonal up to the corner and extremely high top out

Takes the obvious flakeline through the big roof (see pic below), uphill from 'Helmut'. Yet another dynamic problem.

Old Klem Loskot project which was expected to be the hardest dyno in Australia; the FA went to Nalle Hukkataival and its status as hardest dyno may have been subsumed by a few hard problems Nalle put up in Buandik, 'Massive Dynamic' and 'Pigeon Superstition' at the Citadel.

Sit start on the same holds as Caterpillar. Move left to a crimp and an edge before making a big move to the break.

Furthest most problem right of Nelly. Potential for more problems exist in the same area.

Broken looking holds right of 'Click'. Very low sit-start.

Obvious (grim) mantle problem a couple of metres left of Lazy M's finish. A couple of other variations exist here as well.

Choss!

Steep face on pockets, slopers and edges

Start: As for 'Down Under'

Takes the right-trending line via the odd pocket just left of 'Epsilon Crack'.

Project to the right of the finish of 'Kings Cross'.

Possibly the traverse completed by Dai Koyamada - starting from the V2 start hold - then traversing right to the finish of 'Mad Max' - unconfirmed.

The original problem from a standing start - to mantle the finish.

Starting right of 'Cave Club' and heading rightwards across the wall. Still unclimbed?

Sit start with left hand in pocket and right hand on side-pull.

Start on small edges in horizontal crack. Move to a pocket and then to the break. Follow the break left and head up around the arete.

Sit start under the roof at the obvious juggy ledge. Sit start at the obvious juggy ledge. Move up to flakes in the roof and left to mantle over the ledge.

(Make sure the head is protected from the rock behind by a pad or close hand)

Start as for Ethanol and up to flakes in the roof. Follow the line of holds right, moving through the roof to the other side and mantle over the nose of the boulder.

Start on the right arete and climb up left on edges to top out over the peak.

Start as for George St but head straight up and top out.

Sit start at back of the cave and climb left around the to finish as for two sleeps