Routes as boulder in North Grampians

Originally put up as 'Ummagumma' (also at V13) starting in the 3-finger pocket - Klem added the first (hard) move a week later. Previously V14 until Nicole repeated it in a single day.

Starts on the RH face (sit) - left of the 'Sausage' crack weakness.

Sit-start on large flat jug under the roof (same start as for Strammamax) - then head left around onto the face - and up crack weakness.

Classic low traverse starting from the large LH flat jug under the roof - then heading rightwards via a big hueco and an even bigger sloper (crux) - finishing up the Endamax'. Desperate for those of short stature...

Sit-start on the big hueco pocket - then head directly out through the big roof and up the thin face - to finish on the obvious jug line. Thin.

Starts on the big chalked slopey hold under the hanging arete (left of Lost For Life). Up via a pocket in the roof, then undercling to a good jug. Has a reputation for being nails hard for the grade.

Very solid; as shown by Fred Nicole in the classic EOS2 video (or more recently by James Litz in Dosage 3).

Sit-start from a poor RH undercling and an incut LH 'pocket' - massive span move out right to the arete of 'Nice Max' - then finish as for this problem. Positive ape-index recommended!

Sit-start from a low 'horizontal and slightly higher (LH) one - then motor up the left-trending vague arete using crimps - until you can lock up and right to a big pocket/jug. Solid at the grade.

Vague sit-start in the middle of the wall - then up the central line via a small sloping feature and shallow pocket. As fingery as it gets.

Good looking sit-start problem near the RH arete leading up to an obvious jug.

Isolated highball problem away from the main 'Citadel'.

Callum

Start in the back of the cave on the massive jug rail. Make your way to the lip and traverse all the way left using tricky footwork, then head up as for Curtain Call to match on the sharp jug.

This line also has a direct variant that heads straight up from the lip to the crimp rail and finishes as for Encore. This line differs to Grand Opening as you can use the left side of the wall.

Start: Original problem on the lefthand side of the wall, starting with a sit-start.

'The Show Must Go On' is a harder version coming in from the bottom right.

Big move to small edge, then big move to jug

Start: From low horizontal

Start: Takes a right-trending line across the wall starting just right of 100 Pound Club's start holds.

Start of fin/jug and use crack to gain high edge. Up to finishing jug.

Sit start on two angled slots and move up and left on crimps to finish on Epsilon Crack jug.

Very low sit-start then traverse left - then back right to finish on the good jug. The direct straight up from the pockets (dyno) is V4/5.

Short problem on the right-side of the wall with a very awkward low sit-start.

Start: Sit-start left of the 'Cave Club' cave.

A direct start to 'Skim Milk' - finishing as for that problem.

Start as for 'Cave Club' and head left.

Hiroaki

Name History: Affenschaukel - German feminine noun meaning looped plait (Brit) or braid (US).

Start as for 'Apfenschaukel', but head right through a big gaston move. 2nd ascent was quickly made by Toni Lamprecht in about 5 minutes!

Left most problem. Sit start and move up to the good edge in the break, then gaston and undercling your way out the lip to an interesting mantle. Classic.

Start as for 'Railroad' then finish as for 'Cinema Show'.

Sit start with the good slots just right of 'Railroad' and make a big move (crux) up to the good holds in the roof. Finish as for the mantle on 'Railroad'. Punchy!

Start as for 'Slot Machine' and traverse right into 'Cinema Show'. Finish up this.

An independant and direct line right of 'Slot Machine'.

The line left of 'Kamikaze'. Could be the flakeline ending nowhere in particular.

Should be obvious due to the name, the nature of the crux, and the whereabouts of the 30ft slab under the final move. Sit start and make a HUGE move out of a RH pocket undercling to the massive jug out on the lip, either direct or via the intermediate sloper. What ever you do - don't come off the match!

A variation of the previous problem, but better. Starting off the sloper above the shelf (right of previous problem), make a move left to the good pocket, then cross to the prominent 2-finger pocket and span out left into 'I Must Have Been the Thief'. Finish as for this.

Awkward sit start off the raised platform from two good large pockets, then up directly via more pockets (clue - gaston) to lip jug.

Start as for To Catch a Thief (V4) on the two big pockets, link this into Remains of the Sheep (V6). The ledge is out.

A variation, but one of the best lines here. Starts as for 'Chas Remains' to the 3-finger pocket, then gaston right and continue rightwards past good pockets and a pinch, finishing as for 'Between the Sheeps'. A great 13-move pumpfest. Watch the landing on the final move.

A direct line out from the start of When We Were Kings to a 'thread' undercling, then big move out to the large pocket, then finish directly (same finish as for 'Remains of the Sheep'). Watch the landing! Note: The original write up finished as for 'Chas Remains' and was given V7.

Only one of the moves on this 14 move roof traverse is hard. Unfortunately all the rest require exactly the same muscles, ensuring a month long bicep ache. Fred Nicole didn't do it! Can you?

A more direct line into When We Were Kings, starting further to the right.

The name becomes apparent as soon as you take position in the sit start (there's a tree between your legs). Awkward low start then up via crimps and a fantastic finish jug.

The very attractive line right of 'Family Loss' starting with a very low sit start under the roof utilising a LH pinch/pocket on the rib and a large RH gaston. Up through slopers and another gaston (or sidepull) to finish.

Line just right of 'Anal Head'.

Dangerous. Probably even more committing than 'Kamikaze'. Start off the shelf and reach up for a prominent 'spike' jug, then climb directly out to the deep 3-finger pocket. Turn 90 degrees and place your feet on the holds of the next problem, and make a most worrying couple of moves for the big 'flake' jug out on the lip. 15 spotters and a blow up bouncy castle useful...or just pre-order the ambulance.

The big overhanging nose, starting on the left and traversing right to a mantle topout.

Starts on the rightside of the prow - right underneath (sit-start) with pockets of your choice. Head directly out to the lip and topout via the mantle. An excellent problem at the grade.

Sit-start under the roof and head out to the lip to the obvious pocket on the slab - then mantle to glory.

The direct finish to the previous problem up a bit of blankness just right of the pocket.

Sit-start right underneath the roof on the big block (handjam). Head directly out to the big edge near the lip, then left across a sloper and good edge to a lefthand sidepull. Dyno up and right for a sloper sidepull in the groove, then slap (or lock) lefthand to the finish jug.

The arete between the first two V0's you encounter in Andersens. Begin sit-start with left most V0 and move up and right around the arete.

Sit start on slopey edge. Make a hard move up left to a slopey edge and continue to top out as for White Destiny. Bring a brush!!

V4 Stand Start, V5 Sit Start

Sit start as for Green Destiny. Make the same big move to start and then traverse right on good holds to top out on slopers.

Sit-start up just right of arete - watch out for the block below. Some holds seems to be missing.

Sit start front of font boulder. Pleasant juggy slab.

Start on a jug under the overhang. Find the 3 finger pocket on the upper side of the slab to make mantling easier.

Sit start low on a crimp and input edge. Climb the central line up the technical slab to top out over its peak. A classic for the grade!

An area classic up the middle of the slab (unfortunately also a bit of an eliminate). Stand start with terrible smears and crimps and move up to the vague slopey rails (the good holds out right are off) and top out. Delicate, technical, and fun.

Sit start under the prow with low opposing holds. Slap up on opposing holds then reach up to good holds. Top out left or right over the nose. Solid at the grade but really fun!

Gaston moves. Watch your head.

Located on the face other side of the flake.

Start at right end of the boulder following the flake up to the top.

Some parts of flakes look really thin.

Up flake to half way, then pockets to top.

Sit-start

Climb most of 'Croatian Cow', keep traversing around the nose, to mantle onto the slab.

Start left of the V4 problem on a good gaston and take a left-trending line past the mono to topout. Has seen an impressive flash ascent by James Litz (US). Originally given V13 by Sharik as the mono didn't exist and he did horrible moves crimping the very edge of the same hold.

Dynoing from the crack directly to the top is 'Forced Entry Direct' (V11)

Dai Koyamada's addition to Andersens. Sit start matched on the left facing flake. Move up the wall and jump like mad to the lip.

Sit start at a small edge and pinch. Climb the pocketed wall, gently heading left and up.

An area classic that is more technical than it first looks. Sit start on good holds in the low seam and climb up and leftwards, making the most of a variety of challenging slopers!

If you use the line of sidepulls and underclings going out right at the start, then you are on the right-hand variant V4 (but you won't be the first to be mistaken!).

Phyllis climbs Riding Shotgun!

Sit start on the right side of the hueco and make a big move up to slopey holds and continue up hard moves on bad holds over the bulge left of White Destiny.

Climbs the low barrel roof 20m before the line of Old Henry's. Sit-start and using painful pockets, head leftwards diagonally up the wall with ever-stretched out feet. Aim for the slopey gaston and topout shortly thereafter. Rumored to be soft at the grade.

Sit-start at the base of the black streak matching on a big sloper. A dynamic move leads to the good horizontal, then a long RH lock move and onwards up the crimpy face. Highball and a tad committing above a very bad landing, but absolutely classic. Originally given V6 by coming in from the right using a LH gaston (crux) but most people ignore this due to the proximity of the ground (it's hard to stay off it!)

Classic central problem through the cave.

Sit start for Two Sleeps and climb the right side of the cave to an easier exit out right of the roof.

Start as james but from flat edge dyno directly out to slopey lip and mantle.

The arete leading to a mantle on the leftside of the cave. Start matching on the block, then head up via a 'rib' feature, finishing via a mantle topout. An easier (V0) version is to head left at the sloper (thereby missing out the rib feature).

Crawl into the dark cave left of 'Passion' and sit-start on the right matching a big sloper. Traverse left via a massive iron-cross move (hence the name) and finish on the left.

The left most line on the main face. Sit start on good slanting holds and climb the right trending diagonal weakness to mantle over the huge lip.

RH right-trending crack weakness. Starts on the low jugs and climbs up the weakness to a crux move reaching up for a gaston pocket. Was massively overgraded at V5 for a long time.

Start as for 'Passion' and then from the crimps of that problem head right via two more crimps (or pocket) to gain the start of 'Fashion'. Finish up this.

Low sit-start on jugs to a big move for a bad sloper. Crux is gaining the sharp 3-finger pocket, one way or another.

A bum-dragging traverse that looks great but is obviously spoilt by the proximity of the ground (at least you won't hurt yourself!) Traverse from the start of 'Bitch Slap' rightwards all the way to the arete, and topout via a sloper and better lip holds.

Start as for 'Passion' then traverse all the way across the crux of Klapusterperle, through the start of 'Bitch Slap' and finish as for 'Winterkirsch'. Has also been done by finishing up 'Bitch Slap' (Sharik Walker) at no change in grade.