Routes as boulder in North Grampians

A variant of the 'The Farmer Traverse'. Do the same start, then use the higher line of holds to finish on the sloper to the left of the finishing jug of 'The Farmer Traverse'.

A lot easier than the original?

Jasmine The obvious prow from the break. Cool.

Sit start with right hand at starting holds of 'Grand Discovery', then work left to join the seam of 'Discovery'. Not a lot of new moves, but worth checking out if this area gets opened again!

Starts around 4m left of GHMT. Was climbed as a huge dyno. Has also been climbed via some pretty poor intermediate slopers, which most consider to be v6.

Sit start right of the arete, then move left to finish high on the arete.

Follow the enormous pockets edges & slopers to a high finish.

Start on the large sidepull, move left, then up to finish up Probably Dave.

Great line on left side of face climbing up to the seam left of definitely and avoiding all the holds up the centre. Not too hard at V7 but the hardest moves are at the top so a bit engaging. Can be climbed from stand or sit.

Probably not the best problem on the boulder. Sandy.

Stand start on side pull in middle of face, up to crimp, then move right to the fin, to finish up Definitely.

The slopey funnel a metre or so left of Bad Moon Rising. Sit start from the break (not the underclings above). Pretty good.

As for the V4s but climb direct via the micro edges to gain definitely at the crack. Those with wingspan can bypass the crimps but where’s the fun in that?

Sit start between GHMT and BMR below the twin seams. Out to lip via the obvious thin but positive pockets.

Sit start on the low rail and move up a series of dimples and slopers to crimps and jugs at the top. Hard for the grade - James didn't want it to be downgraded.

Popular, despite the fact that it is the only boulder of the crag and requires a considerable hike in to get to.

Up the off-width crack 3m right of American Dream starting deep in the crack.

Start matched on the low hueco jug. Climb the steep orange/grey prow using the arete or directly up orange cove. Top out on jugs and slab.

Start as for "The Show Must Go On" on the massive jug rail. Go directly up to thin edge on the lip and finish the same as Encore. This line differs to "The Show Must Go On" as it eliminates the left sidewall. It requires tricky foot work, big biceps, and excellent tension to get out of the cave. The bat hang is one way, but is there another?

Start on the left hand sidepull and right hand crimp.

A gym boulder. First conceived by Pat Klein as a gag boulder but actually quite fun and pretty tricky. Start facing outwards matched on the undercling crimp and crouched on the ledge, escape the small box and somehow turn around to escape on crimps up and left. Could be V4, could be V7...

Climb the underbelly and out to the left of the Echidna! Sit-start as for Echidna's Nose with LH low on left arete and RH on good crimp. Stay low and make tension-y moves out left to the juggy flake. From here, make a hard move to the good crimp rail, and then powerful moves into the scoop. Finish up trending left. Eliminates obvious broken ledges and pedestal ledge.

Starts the same as The Echidna's Underbelly until the juggy flake. From the juggy flake, make a big move up and right to more jugs without using the obvious right arete (i.e., don't use holds from Echidna's Nose). Eliminates obvious broken ledges and pedestal ledge.

Start at the bottom of the cave, climb the long roof crack and top out through the little hole.

Stephen Waring

Trent Searcy

Start left of Kamikaze and head left.

Start off big flake, out to undercling and huge move to pocket. Finish as for When We Were Kings.

Listed as a project (#19) in the 2016 guide. Sit start on chossy looking jugs 2m right of Big Buck Hunter, up direct into the finish holds of When We Were Kings.

Direct eliminate version to As the Crow Flies (V6). Dyno from the start holds straight to the same hold you're jumping to on As the Crow Flies.

Squat on the right arete start jug and head up the arete.

Start back of cave with LH undercling jug and RH arete. Slap up arete and edges in roof. Give some beans to gain the arete and finish up glory jugs to top out. Stay tight to avoid dab. Recommend sweater over rock as crashpad. (Project #34 in guide).

📹 When in Rome

Start at possum overhang, make moves into undercling and then pop out right into tim and kyles big love.

Start at The Oyster, make moves left on crimps on the face and top out on the far left of the boulder on pockets and mossy slopers.

Sit start matched in the slot under the roof. Finish up pump action.

Eliminate.

Start as for 'Glass Half MT' but don't escape left and stay compressing up the prow. Stay off the high jugs and the left foothold. Finishes with a big move to the top right of the prow then tops out around the right.

Peter

Sit start to the left of D'artagnan. Left hand on high left crimp and right hand on low right crimp (starting foot hold of the V2). Make a big right-hand move into the jug slot and traverse rightward along the lip to finish up D'artagnan.

This line can also be exited directly at about V1-V2.

Stand start on crimps, use arete to throw for good edge.

At end of long, low wall just down and right of The Shield. SDS with low feet, right hand in great pocket jug, bump left to wide pocket, up through slimps to good holds...nice

Heads straight up just right of the start of Sultans of Swing. Pending details.

Sit Start the bottom right side of the 'Galaxy Vivisection' boulder. Follow the flake to a shared topout.

Start in the back of the cave as for 'The Show Must Go On'. Using the undercut crack, climb right and finish as for 'Encore'.

An extension to "Hooked" that finishes over the miniature rooflet. Sit-start as for "Hooked" and climb rightward on jugs. From here, make spanned moves to vague arete, then holds on the lip before finding your way over. Might be harder if shorter.

Start as for Jugged on triangular hold and head right on slopers and crimps to finish as for Jugged.

Start as for Scary Monster and traverse left from as high as the first pocket, around the arête and up the slab.

Sit start on good side pull and small crimp, up through crimps before veering left as the landing falls away.

Start as for SM, but avoid the pocket and stick to the arête. Slightly contrived, but offers some impressive and committing climbing.

Kyle Meredith-Peck

The shortest of the traverse variants. From the same start as RM exit early via a dyno to the chicken head.

Kyle Meredith-Peck

Start on slopey holds in the roof, head straight out and up through heel hook trickery.

Sit start off the pedestal left of Snow Mike, bust straight out the roof with some tension before topping out the cliff.

Start off rock on slopey jug, head up and right through committing moves between jugs.

Sit start on the left, follow wavy cracks up on lovely slopey holds.

Sit start on edges, bust out the roof via shouldery moves and finish up right. Either downclimb or shuffle along the shelf to top out.

Rat Salad into Rat Poison. Mega!

Stand start, big move to lip and mantle.

Sit start with udercling and crimp, up to edge and throw for sloper. Head left on slopers and mantle. Low right foot ledge is out. Bit crumbly but still worthy.

Stand-start with high left crimp and low right crimp. Pull on, slap good pocket and punch to better holds on the lip before traversing right.

An excellent beginner problem. Sit-start on good jugs and head upward on more jugs.

Sit-start as for "__" but traverse rightward on jugs and crimps to the amazing right hand pinch. From here, head slightly up and rightward to finish on more jugs.

An excellent eliminate of the jugs is possible - (like Tim Tam Traverse but harder), but still a project.

Sit-start on giant rock using two flat-edged and blocky crimps. Pull on, punch left hand to positive crimp before tricky moves leads to a juggy exit.

The full sit-start would go as well.

Start as for Encore but head directly up then rightward to finish as for "Distress" (V0).

The obvious and beautiful right-leaning traverse. Stand-start on slopers and move rightward on beautiful edges and slopers. Mantel out right.

Sit start on good holds, head up and right to join the rail before topping out as the landing falls away.

Sit start on jug, head up and traverse left on slopers to finish as for Stage Fright.