Route in Sword in the Stone

A grand excursion through intimidating roofs.

Start: The start is marked by a small square 15m left of 'Epaminondas'. With grade 17 traversing required on two pitches, the second climber needs to be every bit as confident and competent as the leader.

1. 40m (10) Up the front of the buttress to a commodious ledge beneath the obvious corner.

2. 30m (17) Up the crack then right to the seam. Follow this to the corner. Climb the corner to the roof then hand-traverse right to a small ledge and semi-hanging belay.

3. 30m (17) Continue up right to an awkward exit into the V-chimney.