Routes as sport in North-West Serra Range

Unlikely climbing through steep terrain. Much easier than it looks.

Start: About 60m left of the descent gully at a lovely orange Arapelean like wall. It's about 10m left of Ingvar's bolted route.

Tricky Power Start will see more enjoyable climbing. Follow the bolts and make the traverse left before the top.

Start: Start under the roof moving right with the bolts.

Delicate climbing all the way. Always a foota when you need it...

Start: Start in the large undercut corner. Facing North. Two visible bolts.

Do you remember these guys eh?

Great variety of moves and user friendly.

Start: Start at undercut just right of mookie cracks, and begin climbing out to the right before swinging back.

A direct start to NDW. 3 new bolts, then joins NDW at it's 5th bolt.

Start on the ledge adjacent to Glam Buttress. Stay to the left of line to find the way. There is a cross over right then back. The loose rock is not in play, its all to the right!

Start: West Side of Pillar. Opposite Not Drowing Waving.

Fun but short.

Start: About 15m west of "Mookie" is a 15m high pillar that's hard to miss. This route climbs the south (easiest) side. Appears to be a direct version of 'Moomba'.

Enjoyable thin face climbing up the East side of the pillar past 5 U bolts

Start: Starts down and right of 'Prince Albert' by about 5m.

Start underneath Wee Willy, anchoring the belayer to WW's first bolt if desired. Step right and climb around the underside of the pinnacle, moving up and right past two U-bolts, then back left to clip a FH (long-ish draw recommended) before pulling through the middle of the roof to a vague ledge and another U-bolt. Continue up through centre of final roof past another bolt.

Delicate sustained and varied climbing. Up the left side of the front of the buttress stepping left after the first bolt. Be wary of loose rock especially near the top. Use rap anchors above Sookie for decent.

Easier to bare than the night before. Start a couple of meters right of RCN. Technical face climbing on excellent rock with an absorbing crux! Joins RCN for its last bolt and anchor.

Climb orange streak on excellent rock with some spicy moves around the bulge and above.

Start: Start A few metres right of arête behind tree at orange streak.

A beaut!

Start: Starts on the front face of the un-named buttress (right of REM and left of Red chilli nights)

Good climbing, but some loose rock detracts! Has been retrobolted with the permission of the first ascentionist (including adding it's own new rap station).

Start: Starts just around left of the front of the buttress (about 10m uphill from "The Stolen Generation")

Set off up the black blank wall, climbing past 4 bolts to a good rest. Delicately right to the arette past another couple of bolts to arrive at the crux (bolt). Up, and pleasent airy moves to the top. Possible to climb past DBB and top out on the awesome platform above (if so, rap from DBB in notch).

Start: 5m right of Bella's Crack

Starts 5m right of murranji track.Up black slab to little rooflet climb right around rooflet then back left and straight up.Great moves with lots of fixed hangers and rests.Bound to be a crowd pleaser.Due to public demand this crowd pleaser is now a soft touch 18 enjoy.

An enjoyable and sustained outing. Starts approx 2m right of Maranjirri track and 2m left of Problem Solving over 0.05 at base of black wall. Stays right at the end. A few loose bits still on route right at the end (on the right hand side) so take care. These will get cleaned off soon.

CLOSED PROJECT! The first of Ariel's many new routes, this one has a very thin, heartbreaker finish (might be 22/23?). Up the black wall between Maranjarri track and Proeblem solving over 0.05, left at the end sharing the last bolt to finish at the anchor of Muranjarri Track.

Starting just left of a decent ledge about 30m uphill from Short Memory. 10 FH plus rap station. Slabby technical thin start leads to novelty detatched rock where a hands free rest is possible. Exposed steep final moves get the heart racing. Careful of lots of loose rock on the ledge left of the belay. 10 x FH

Starts about 4m further up the gully from UTDS. Up on the right-hand side of the first bolt, then begin trending left before reaching a thin foot-rail under the 3rd bolt. Delicately traverse left into the the UTDS line, possibly using a 60cm+ quickdraw on the 4th bolt to minimise drag. Up to a thought-provoking series of underclings and a committing finish directly above final bolt. Rappel anchor on back wall of ledge above.

To the right of and around the corner from Psychedelic Zucchini, directly under the rappel from that climb. Starts to the right of the first bolt. Reach left to clip first bolt, then up through difficult terrain on thin, angled crimps and poor feet (crux). Eases once the 3rd bolt is reached. Continue straight up the line of bolts, finishing through a series of impressive underclings. Rappel anchor on back wall of ledge above.

Named after seeing Josef’s giant zucchinis at camp. Starts beneath the arête to the right of Short Memory. Tricky slab moves then step right to the steep arête. Sustained climbing up the arête brings you to an overlap and thereafter the fun crux moves.

Between Short Memory and Psychedelic Zucchini. CLOSED PROJECT - DO NOT CLIMB.

Sustained delicate face climbing with good pro. Shade until around midday. A new, lower set of anchors was added in 2016, removing the need for trad gear and making it possible to lower off down the route, rather than having to rappel from the platform at the start of Signe's Second Pitch into the gully around the corner.

Start: Starts at the foot of a grey ramp opposite R.E.M. (just right of a crack).

From the ledge above Short Memory, Psychedelic Zucchini and Underhanded Tactics, head up and right, then traverse left under the orange section. Head up to slab, then up and left to anchors.

A sustained 21, with thoughtful moves and a quite a few spaced bolts. 1) 40m 21 (12 bolts) As for Short Memory head up and left where it heads right to the crack (following grey fixed hangers). Confronting moves lead up to the crux, which gains the crack above. Nice climbing up the crack to a belay on the left. 2) 20m (six bolts) from belay step right and up through a tricky corner. Snake and weave up and around overlaps and bulges to the top anchor.

Starts as for "The Perfect Extraction" to ramp/ledge. Move right approx 5m to weakness just left of corner. Up fun, moderate face to a steep wild crux. Belay on pillar at top as for The Perfect Extraction. QTY Bolts TBC - 16?

Great sustained well bolted climbing up the big wall just left of Short Memory on glued in staples. Take a medium length quickdraw for the bolt near the top of the initial ramp and a few others for higher up to assist with rope drag. A steep pumpy finish brings you to belay on a comfortable ledge with rap rings. Bring two ropes to get down!

Starts below shallow yellow corner around 10m down and left of The Perfect Extraction. Up corner until you can traverse left on good holds. Up wall past big flake to some very thin moves, but step left to great sidepulls and around (left) then right to ledge and rap station.Or you can go direct at approx 23. *Note Josef plans to bolt a straighter finish removing the dog leg to the right at the end which may increase the length a bit.

This independent route climbs the stunning steepness of the Barista Buttress. Pumpy! Starts 3m right of the closed project, Birthday Barista. Climb the sustained face past 4 FHs and then move left to a stance in Birthday Barista (U-bolt). Traverse left (FH) with good feet to the arête and establish yourself on the steep prow. Finish past 4 more FHs and one U-bolt.

Climbs the first 3 bolts of Birthday Barrista, then directly up the technical face past 3 FH's. At this point join the finish of DSE past 4FH's and a RB.

THIS IS STILL A CLOSED PROJECT. Take 16 quickdraws. Steep side pulling underclinging goodness. Sustained and wonderful.

Start: Starts around 30m below and right of "Thor" at a prominent crack just left of the steep blunt orange arete.(about 10-15m down and left of "The Perfect Extraction")

Warning This route has a Death Block near the top, It should not be climbed till it has been removed

Sustained climbing up the wall left of Dreaming of Rehabilitation's crack (down and right of Thor). Approx 16 (?) fixed hangers lead to belay via a lot of very thin moves. 25m rap from 2 x FH with rings.

Pure funk. A feast of underclings and sidepulls with slopey facets for your feet. Sustained with a tricky finish past the last bolt.

Start: Takes the steep west face of Virgin Buttress 15m to the right of 'The Big Easy'

Bolts R of The Big Easy to same anchors.

Easy slab climbing. Great 'Warm up' with interesting moves towards the top.

Start: In the big gully/ramp

Great quality sustained and interesting. Some steep face climbing. A few small loose bits will probably come off in time, but will clean up with a little traffic to be fantastic.

Start: Starts about 5m right of 'Gulgurn Manja'.

Sustained and varied climbing. Well worthwhile as it but once all the loose rock is removed will be even better.

The route name means "Hands of Young People"

Start: Starts about 10m right of right leading corner (about 20m left of the big gully) at a grey/black slab.

CLOSED PROJECT. Cleaned and equipped June 2018. Starts about 3m left of Gulun Manja, just right of the huge right leaning chossy corner. Up face then bust a move left through overlap and onto face. Trending left then up break just before arete, curve right then back left at sickle shaped orange corner. Right on steep face then straight up between Moon Safari and Gulun Manja to join their anchor. Has been equipped so as not to take away from Moon Safari's exposure / feel (the bolts are too far right to be clipped from that route).

Sustained and thin. Very good.

Good line and fun climbing, with great views.

Starts left along the cliff approximately another 10m from "Talisman" where a gully leads steeply up to the photographers ledge with a black slab on it’s right hand side. Start here.

1. 33m (17*) Up sustained technical black slab past 10 U-Bolts and fixed hangers. Steepens before rap station on small ledge. Continue up and right on good holds through steeper terrain to gain enormous "Squash Court" ledge. (The climb originally ended the first pitch at the first rap station, at grade 15, and then used a long second pitch to get to the top, but this is not recommended as it involves huge rope drag and an inferior belay position.)

2. 28m (18**) Blast up the arête (tricky swing left where the holds run out) to fun exposed easier climbing above on superb compact rock. 6 bolts from Squash Court belay.

From top, 60m rappel to ground, carefully 30m to 1st belay, or 25m to Squash Court. 33m rappel from Squash Court to ground, but it is possible to swing up the ramp left of the start of the climb to reduce this to 30m. Requires 15 quickdraws as described, or 11 if ending pitch 1 at the first rappel station.

“When he had created the beautiful sandstone ranges of Gariwerd, Bunjil often took the form of Werpil the Eagle so that he could view his work.” Perfect rock for the area. Start from the upper (LH) end of the slopping terrace (The Squash Court) that’s almost 30m above the ground between the starts of Totemic Arete (P1) and Moon Safari at DBB (25m to ground). Head up-right through wide corner scoop to the bottom of the gently overhanging orange wall. Follow FHs up, finishing at the DBB of Totemic Arete (55m to ground or rap 20m to DBB on The Squash Court).

A tribute to a great friendship, the spirit of generosity and a shared passion for adventure. Consistently engaging, good climbing on good rock. Starts 3m right of (on the big black sloping ledge we’ve dubbed the “squash court”). Delicate moves up the blunt arete to orange headwall, up, up and away - belay on big block just right of Werpil/Totemic Arete’s anchors.Number of bolts TBC?

Closed Project

On the small buttress below Jardwadjai (photographers ledge) there are 3 short sport routes this is the middle one

Enjoyable well protected face climbing, starts on the first belay of The Apology / 1967. The name is a reference to the Aborigional seasons - Chinnip one is for cold, cockatoos and early wildflowers. Up the first two bolts of 1967 then head up and right to rap station on chockstone above chimney. Belay here. Tricky moves up right then back left and up the wall past 11 glue in staples to finish at the rap station of 1967 on ledge. Rap 28m back to belay or 50m to ground, or 33m to ledge where The Apology 1st pitch anchors are. There is also 2 u bolts at the base of the climb to belay from.

Starts at the ledge (3m right of "The Apology" anchor). Up and right diagonally to shallow corner, up just right of this. Near top step left up steep bulge to finish on sloping ledge with it's own rap station (2 x glue in staples) *Number of bolts TBC

Starts 5m right of back in black. Look for curving line of bolts. 2nd pitch is technical and excellent.

A nice bit of climbing on the attractive short Arapilean wall below "The Apology". Start 4m right of "Sorry" (vague tangent to the block and shallow line above).

Technical climbing 1.5m left of Tangent. Climbs the thin face past 5 FHs.

A direct start to an apology. Start 5m R of P1 of The Apology. 3FHs conveniently finishing at its P1 anchors.

Starts at the 1st below (on ledge) of "The Apology). Head straight up trending left to small rooflet, up the right side of this then traverse left. Up then left when you hit the sloping ledge, up then back right to independent rap station (2 x staples). 30m (rop stretcher) rap to ledge. *Number of bolts TBC

Straight up the steepest section of this wall through two bulges. Starts at the ake 3m right of Back in Black (and 1m right of Treaty.) Balance across right into the line at the rst FH and then climb directly up the line through two bulges. Nice compression moves on immaculate rock at the top. Once you gain the small ledge system, climb easily up and left to the rst FH on Free Passage and traverse left to the rap anchors above Back in Black P1. (8 bolts)

A really nice long outing with a low delicate crux on good rock with good bolt spacing. Approx 20 quickdraws? Starts just right of Back In Black on slab. Delicately up slab and face to join "Free Passage" for the last 3 bolts and belay there. 42m abseil.

Starts at black crack / water streak about 10m uphill from The Apology. Tricky moves (about 17-) up corner to belay on slab. Second pitch traverses left then up blunt arete through steepening (some good fun laybacks) to belay on ledge above. Take two ropes to get off. Be careful with loose rock on 2nd pitch. Great exposure.

When it's hot hot hot! Follow 13 FHs through a couple of bulges to DBB. Stick clip the first bolt if you're not comfortable soloing the ramp.

Means “Lightning Man” in the local tounge/folklore. A good sustained face climb with some lovely thin moves. Starts up a face 4m left of Back in Black 1) 30m Up face ducking and weaving around some small holds and slinky moves, follow the bolts and enjoy the ride! Rap off at bolt station on ledge at base of crack.

Starts about 5m up and left of Namarron at a small rock ledge with a tree for some belay shade. A slabby start leads to sustained steepness, eventually reaching a large ledge, and then up and right from there is a wild and airy finish. Note it's in the shade after about 3pm. 45m rap from rings. Descent possible with a single 60m rope by rapelling to the Namarron anchors, or continuing up (easy scramble) to the ledge above, and rappelling from the anchors there down to the Orb Weaver anchors.

Starts at the left end of a car-sized boulder, about 10m left of Dreamcatcher. Mantle start left of first bolt, up slab to large undercling flake and through that to ledge. Easily up and right along ledge then up a steep section (crux) until climbing eases, and finally weave back left under the giant orb, finishing up left of it. Anchors on right wall, 26m rappel to ground.

Starts just right of The Stars Look Down, takes the right leaning seam. Pull up directly beneath the first bolt, then move up right to make the second bolt. Follow the line. 35m rap.

Engaging . Sports climbing for multi-pitch trad climbers. Starts as songline for the first 3 fixed hangers. Unclip the first bolt after for less drag.Then traverses right across face on ubolts till you reach the vertical crack 2m up vertical crack reach across left on good holds to clip 2nd u bolt. Then heads straight up following u bolts up to first set of lower offs 1- u bolt 1-fixed hanger with twisted shakle .Grade 18 to this point 8 bolts +2 for lower offs. Note extentsion which is 1 u bolt till the next set of lower offs is 19 l will be removing the first set of lower offs soon. l would recommend a 70m rope so you can get back to the ground instead of the ledge.

starts on slab left side of pillar follow u bolts through steep lower section .Continue following u bolts to top .l still have to clean some loose rock from the climb so please stay off until complete.

A great outing with varied styles, solid rock and good bolting. Starts as for song line, straight up at first bolt (Songline traversed right here). Thin face Climbing eventuatleads to good rest. Delicate side pulls then powerful moves through steep bulge and tricky mantle. Up corner then move left and up to rap station. 27m abseil.

Starts just right of u- bolt,then left to horn jug.(crux )Back right after 1st bolt to right facing triangular side pull.Then following well featured face and white streak up and diagonaly left to anchors.16 u-bolts + lower offs

The line of fixed hangers just left of Tchingal's curse. A thin start (crux) leads to a long and sustained outing on excellent rock. Finish at the anchor (1 U-bolt and 1 FH) above the final ledge.

Climb the slabby rib 3m to the right of 'Murinbungo'.

Start as for 'Morgana'. After the first bolt step into the peapod then onwards up the slabby wall.

Super quality first pitch (sport) with trad 16 second pitch of lesser quality but still well worthwhile.

Start: Starts on the left arete of 'Tjuringa' Buttress

1. 32m (21) Up the steep arete that looks like it should be about 5 grades harder! Optional 'Camelot' one or big wires after last bolt.

2. 30m (16) Straight up the arete to natural belay. Move to west side of buttress to rap over 'Rainbow Serpent'

Pete Mills was heard to say "I'd crawl a mile over broken glass to climb that" Paul Geil was heard to say "it's probably the best 21 in the Grampians" many others have muttered it's excellent without such bold statements. Whatever the case it's worth the (admittedly steep, loose & crappy) walk.

Like your mum’s new 20 year old boyfriend or the hot young gardener at your granny’s place. Worth all the pain of getting there. Up the steep face directly left of Pot Of Gold. Up steep face past 11 FH to rap station just left of Pot Of Gold.