Routes as trad in Grampians

Where HK should have gone.

1. 33m Up HK to overhang at 10m. Steeply up left side then straight up HK third pitch.

2. 15m Finish as for HK pitch four.

Starts right of Red Sky. Climb shallow corner then through overlap. Continue up, finishing to the right.

Start left of Frying and Crying. Corner to roof, then left and up crack.

Subtle line with hard start 6m right of pillar near right end of right-hand cliff and immediately left of conifer (not used).

Front of pillar 3m right of Grimace and 1m right of Tin Men.

Crack up left side of The Bonatti Pillow’s pillar.

Groove 2m left of Grimace.

‘The only way to overcome temptation is to yield to it.’ Oscar Wilde. Up bulging wall 2m right of Wimping Out and just left of cave.

Groove 1m right of Dirty Weekend.

Take the biggest pro (to 18cm!). Off-width behind pinnacle between Jodd and Solid As A Rock.

Tell ‘em you led Oz’s first! Start as for Jodd. Follow flake up and out left.

Crack just left of descent gully left of Solid As A Rock.

Line 2m right of Frying And Crying.

Steep but with amazingly commodious holds. Start up right arête of cave 2mleft of On The Road Again. Up.

Short V-groove 2m left of Greasy Daze. Left from top of this, then up.

On lower southwest side of Castle Rock is a wall facing northwest and visible from Henham Track. It is smoother and cleaner than the rest of Castle Rock. At left end of this an undercut crack (tricky start) veers up rest.

Distinctive off-width mentioned in guidebook.

Crack above broken jug 11m right of Lorraine.

Easy crack above acrobatic start 38m right of where cliff breaks down.

Z-shaped corner-crack 10m right of where cliff breaks down.

Pox. Small corner, then step right to arête on first little buttress ‘where the cliff starts to build up again’.

Corner with roof at half-height several easy corners left of start of upper cliff. Left under roof. Crack.

The obvious line 12m left of Discarded Dreams. Up to steepening then step right and up.

Right-leaning diagonal, then groove 30m left of Black Magic.

Excellent, left-leaning orange flake on left side of main wall. Up right at steepening to small ledge. Line above, then wall.

1. 20m Thin, right facing corner at right end of Discarded Dreams cliff to large ledge.

2. 25m Up easily from left end of ledge, then veer right up steep corner.

On the first outcrop reached, just right of Sunspot. Climb crack on left side, through bulge to final slab.

Climbs slab left of main slab of the Last Unicorn, then crosses gully between and joins The Last Unicorn.

1. 45m Slab to overlap, up beside it, then step right over it. Up to second overlap on right. Over it.

2. 47m (3; no pro) Step left and climb slab to bushes and huge blocks.

3. 26m Veer right to over-lap. Up on to block. Shift belay right across gully.

4. 40m (crux) From horizontal break, go up right over slabs and overlaps to join The Last Unicorn atop pitch three.

Line 2m left of distinctive chimney with chock stone near middle of cliff. Steep, good rock. Past BR and shallow corner to ledge. Wide crack.

Start 10m left of Extinct at left side of large ceiling/corner with guano in it.

1. ?m Dirty, right-facing corner to small ledge.

2. ?m Corner past guano stain to small roof. Left, then head wall.

Small, right-facing corner 2m left of left buttress from ledge. Follow twin cracks that converge on upper wall to dirty exit.

Mossy slab 1m left of Judak (Jeddak ?) to guano-stained scoops. Pass guano (BR) to right-facing corner. Scoops on right (pro in corner) on small edges, then back to corner at overlap. Over this to slab.

The right facing corner/crack. Straight up to ledge.

The left facing corner. Follow the corner crack to the ledge. A harder finish (about grade 15) is to continue from the ledge through the crack in the large boulder on the ledge.

Goes up middle of wall between Humble Pie and Flower Power. Start by cave right of Gormenghast.

1. 30m Right leading line to ledge on left edge of giant cave, roofs.

2. 40m Move off cliff after reaching it to arrive at blocky terrace under overhangs. Belay 7m left. Wall tending right until above roofs, then mantel to cave. Up from right of cave to stance.

3. 40m Wall tending left to short, overhanging weakness in cliff-girdling band. Wall to stance.

4. 30m Veer left up wall to small, vertical wall with horizontal cracks. Up to overlap, then left and up to terrace.

5. 10m Through summit roof.

Up Whiplash (Cheesecake) for 2½m. Traverse up left on stepped flake. Finish up middle break in wall to bushy ledge. Descend as for Whiplash.

Start 3m left of Cream Cheese at the groove starting from a ledge, accessed from Old English gully. (The initial short corner was avoided because it was dirty and poorly protected, however, it was seconded.) Up the groove just left of the arête past natural pro and a bolt. Continue to the second bolt then step right onto the arête. Up a few metres to belay on a small ledge. Traverse off right into Cream Cheese and to the large ledge.

Starts as for A Bit o' the Other.

1. 25m Up to belay in scrub where it becomes possible to traverse right.

2. 15m Traverse right to front of buttress. Up to ledge.

3. 15m Crack and line to stance 3m below roof.

4. 30m Roof and crack to ledge.

5. 40m Right and up to tree. Scramble off.

The line from the right side of a flake at the left end of the cliff and leads up right.

This starts below the large roof left of Venus.

1. 15m Head up the corner to the roof, then head right to belay.

2. 30m Climb diagonally left to the corner-line above the roof then climb this and the steepenings to the top.

1. 15m Start 1m left of Venus. Head diagonally left up the wall to a stance on the left arete that is level with the huge ceiling on the left, and belay as for Elle’s Belles.

2. 45m (Crux) Head up the line above to an overhang past the bulge. Traverse right under this, then go back diagonally left above it to a position 3m below the summit ceiling and join Elle’s Belles at the top.

Start at Hobson Undertakers. On the right of the cubic block is a crack. Climb it then go up the centre of the face above. Take plenty of small wires for protection.

Head up the face to the left of Strumpet.

This starts a few metres left of Bridget.

1. 20m (16) Go up diagonally and left on the face below the tiered roofs until the cave on the arete is reached.

2. 20m (12) Head around the arete to go up just left of it.

This starts between Underhung and Deflowered

1. 15m Climb the short V-corner, then go up the wall above past a suspect-looking block until the right end of the belay ledge is reached.

2. 15m Climb the face from the right end of the ledge, go up the overlap, and then finish up the overhang that is just right of the prow.

A major crack line starting 30m left of Pine Trap.

1. 12m 15. Climb the crack to a ledge on the left below the roof.

2. 24m 18. Muscle through the roof and continue up the big crack.

3. 12m 9. Step left and up the easy wall.

Approach: follow the landslide scar visible from the road directly up the middle rock face until you reach the lower pitch, which has a scramble between that and the next two pitches to top out.

Pitch 1 15m (16) toughest pitch of the route tiny mossy holds on slabby rock. good pro (small chocks/cams) with tough moves, best pitch of the route. Tree belay

40m Scramble to pitch 2 (8R) limited if any pro available, set slings on bulging rocks for belay

Pitch 3 45m (8) creative pro, slings and chocks. One Dyno, one heel hook make this pitch interesting, otherwise mellow, belay from overhanging rock.

20m Scramble to top out and rejoin hikers for decent.

Adventure climbing, great cliff access created by the landslide, more route potential in surrounds.

Three lines lead through the lower roof on the front of Split Pinnacle. This route takes the right hand one.

1. 20m 15. Up the crack and its right wall around the roof, then up to belay as for The Rush Variant.

2. 15m 10. Traverse left over the flake to finish up the chimney.

Start up Constrictor's slab past the bolt, then (instead of traversing the break R as per the original) continue straight up following the chalked slopers of World Party's first pitch to ledge and lower-off.

Climb The Seventh Pillar LHV to the top of the flake, clip the bolts, gaze rightwards at the rising, unprotected traverse, and say 'take'. Lower off with mixed feelings of guilt and relief.

Note that if you aren't cleaning your gear off this route by the sun comes around (~2pm), you will likely get gear stuck (no matter how experienced you are at placing/removing gear). Oftentimes no amount of hammering or cursing will remove the gear... only for it to lift out the following morning without the need for any coercion whatsoever. So if you get gear stuck, either shrug and consider that it was worth it to get on this route, or get back up it early the following day.

The overhanging crack 2 m left of The Lonely Sea. Mentioned in Grampians Selected Climbs. FA unknown.

Mantle onto ledge to climb up to the left side of the large pipe feature. Step left for a few metres across featured rock, to bolt on the tiny slab feature. Follow the twin cracks skyward. Descend from bolts above 'Deep Fried Dub'.

The buttress that looks like a crystal. Fun, if bits of rock don't break off while climbing, causing you to nearly deck. Start on the right side of the buttress, go left to follow the jugs and close to the arête. At the ledge, go right to the rap station. Don't go to far up, otherwise you will miss the rap station. And be very careful of the rock.

Begin at the black pocketed rock. Go up corner, move right to the slab, then left to a ledge and further left to the arête and through the bulge. Rap chains are to the right.

This linkup provides an easier way to do Tourniquet p2 as a single monster pitch from the ground. Climb Mr J p1 to it's 2nd last bolt, slopy traverse R to middle of black streak (cams), spicy up black streak into the spacious cave. Join Tourniquet pitch 2 up the arete.

The easiest way to do Venom p2. Climb Mr J until 5m above it's crux, then take the jug traverse R to join Venom p2 and follow this to the top in one mega pitch from the ground.

Scramble up to the ledge to start. 2 carrots, 5 FH.

Cultural Cringe DF

From midway up the last pitch, go direct up the headwall (where the original goes up the scrappy gully to the left). The holds aren't visible from the ledge, but they keep on coming.

Up weakness just L of JAS, then delicate traverse R across slab and up crack above (direct might be possible if not seeping).

Main crack in centre of wall, just R of Beestburgers. Thin start and a strenuous move leads to enjoyable climbing. Trend L at the top, finishing at Anchor under roof.

Attractive corner / flake line about 10m L of the main waterfall. Rap from block at 25m (sling), or continue to the top.

A link-up, but with fantastic and sustained climbing the whole way; taking in the best parts of both routes. Head up the project, then where the project goes L, bust R to Arete (good wires) to finish up 'Forty is the New 23'. Wires and small-med cams.

A good line, and a slightly more enjoyable way to go to get to the final crack of Lost on Migration. Start just down and L of '40 is the new 23', up L into corner, then over bulge to a rest (and a high wire on the L), now traverse R and up into LOM.

Start mid Squall Line and Hurricane and climb up. Gets very thin and then steep at the end on good jugs.

Start 25 metres right of Corratec at overhanging orange corner with bright white quartzite pebble at 2 metres on right side of corner. Up well protected corner to ledge take a step to the left and up through roof to small tree. From second ledge take left side of buttress through big crack to top, some loose rock.

Start just to the left of Burnt By The Shade. Climb to the right side of major scoop and step left into line above. Follow cracking line and holds until they run out and step left under rap chains to finish.

Easy line just left of Crimps of Doom, starts under flake feature a few metres left of arete. Straight up to prominent flake then up on jugs, finishing at highest point on wall. Good pro.

The obvious Arapilesean sleazefest through the cave.

Start as for Zeus, but after 4m take the shallow orange corner 2m L. Straight through overhangs, then move R at final roof to finish up Zeus. Good climbing, with spaced but adequate pro.

A good face climb at a moderate grade linking the start of Spare Rib with the finish of Frock From Hell. Start as for Spare Rib and move up to around 5m before swinging right onto the face to gain a small ledge below a FH. Up and right and slightly run-out to the second FH. Up to the crack and finish up that on small cams/wires.

Pastoral Poetry. Elegant climbing up the rounded arete to the right of Skirt Alert finishing up the crack in the headwall. Start 3m right of Skirt Alert. Pull onto the first bulge and step left to gain the small pea-pod. At the top of this step right onto the face, reaching over the bulge to gain the bolt. A hard move gets you to the good horizontal, then continue up the thin seam/crack directly above with some good edges and finger locks.

The line up the middle of the face L of Bridget that finishes through the steepest part of the wall. Start 1m L of Bridget, following intermittent corners and cracks to the steepening. Climb through overlap to cave, then up the corner to roof, great moves take you out L past the roof to the top. Good gear where you need it.

As for Moon Dreams to juggy horizontal break; then R past flakes via a big move, then straight up amazing wall. Resist the urge to climb into diagonal crack - finish straight up. Takes lots of nuts, and a few small cams. Add a grade if climbed placing gear.

Song from Melbourne Duo 'Time for Dreams'. ...the luminous Amanda Roff muses, “when I wrote the song I was thinking of Norman Mailer’s “Ancient Evenings” where at one point in the afterlife you must swim through a river of actual human shit”. (which might explain the first pitch of AE)!?

Start as for Moon Dreams - across to FH on wall, then R to 2nd FH over lip of roof (and a hidden hold). Now up and R through steep terrain / horizontals (ignore thread on AE) and up to Arete and welcome jugs even bigger than those on the rest of the route. A pretty cool excursion. Trad belay - rap down into gully from higher rap station on pillar. Take med-large nuts and cams to size 1.

Novel climbing! Starts up R on the ledge, either stick clip, or place trad in the crack to start. Then exciting traverse all the way L until you can climb up (Trad) to join the big flake/corner on Doctor Manhattan.

As for jailhouse, but go up via 2nd FH. Take a few small to med cams for the start / finish. Loweroff.

Excellent steep climbing on good holds. Start 2m R of Akimbo.

1. 37m. 18. Up the initial weakness then up tending rightwards to the L end of a slabby wall. R tothe base of a small L-facing corner. Up this, continue past a FH, then through a small roof to below the major roof. Move R and up, through the break to an exposed stance on the R.

2. 20m. 17. Up for a couple of moves then L to the arete. Up then back into the line following steep jugs to the top.

There is a rap chain and ring at the top (a 53m abseil back to the starting terrace)

P1) 18 Climb Separation Anxiety to FH at half height then diagonal right to base of the hanging V corner. Up a body length or two then spacily onto the right arete and up to belay in alcove as for chicanery. P2) 19 Up and left to gain the fantastically airy left diagonal crack that slashed the headwall between SA and C. Climb it and live the good life!

Buttress 80m left of left end of main cliff. Best approached by walking up the gully left of Carry on Regardless then following the cliff line left. Takes the prominent slabby arête of the buttress providing pleasant climbing with a FH at the start. Finish at the ledge and abseil anchor.

The short buttress just right of Carry on Regardless. Climb the thin crack to a fixed hanger. Up and left to another fixed hanger then back right to finish up a short groove. DBB/lower off.

Start 2 metres right of Rumpo Kid. Up the right edge of the face, small cams are useful.

The face just right of Upstanding. Up the crack and face past a FH to a ledge. Up the wide crack then step right and climb the thin seam up the middle of the short headwall to finish at the abseil anchor.

The major crackline just to the right of NATO is surprisingly awkward and sustained. Finish up the headwall as for NATO

The easiest line to the top and is a bit more worthwhile if climbed from the ground. Start directly under LHS of wall, up to mantle onto small ledge, then up steep but easy wall to main ledge. Stretch to clip FH, then straight up wall / grooves to top. Rap down into gully as for Birth of the Cool.

Start 25 metres right of Krak de Chevaliers around the right arete of the major buttress. Climb the recessed chimney corner. A very old fashioned outing.

Interesting climbing up the thin cracks and seams in the middle of the buttress 5m right of Garderobe. Finish at an abseil anchor.

Arete L of Midday Sun (a bit better than it looks), finishing direct up through overhang / groove. Not as much pro at the crux as you'd like.

Contrived. Up just R of Arete (left arete of Transient), crossing into that route at the 3rd BR. Finish up short overhang and slab above. Can be done all on trad, although pro is a bit spaced at the bottom.

Use a variety of hollow, broken and crumbling holds to climb past 3 BR's above the marked square of Troubadour, starting on the R. When the angle eases, the rock quality improves dramatically. Wires for the top.

Up wall 1m R of Air brakes. Plenty of gear and soft tick for the grade.

Walk up the gully left of Carry on Regardless about 30m to a short clean face. Up the middle of the face to the abseil anchors. Small cams required [nothing larger than a BD 0.3 was used on the first ascent].