Routes as trad in Grampians

Start a few meters left of Fanstasm. Step off block and straight up face passing a heart shaped flake. Alan Hope, Bill Andrews Jan 1987

Light line in the middle of the wall behind Bird Wall proper and faintly initialed "F". Up double sided flake to groove and crack above. First recorded ascent: Bill Andrews, Allan Hope Jan 1987

Starts a few meters right of Fantasm. Climb past twin orange ribs and up. FA: Allan Hope, Bill Andrews Jan 1985

Hard start then the crack. Scramble off.

Start: The R crack.

Start: The middle crack.

1. 30m (14) The crack, fragile rock at first.

2. 20m (-) As for 'Hawks'.

For a relative unknown Stan Manley sure did nab a bunch of good lines, years before anyone else showed up here.

Start: Start at the left crack.

1. 30m (17) Hard start, then crack to ledge.

2. 20m (-) Upwards to large ledge and continue through the top overhang.

Apparently only 1m R of 'Jupiter', but 29m longer and 5 grades easier...

Start: Start 5m R of the R chimney.

Bouldery start.

Start: Start 2m R of A.

Shallow corner then trend R.

Start: Start 2m R of the R chimney.

Start: Start between the two chimneys.

1. 25m (8) Add a few grades the further you start to the right. Up jugs just L of crack to ledge.

2. 21m (8) Up to follow large crack.

Short crack then wall.

Start: Start 33m R of PoP, on R side of big slabby area, 3m L of the first chimney.

Solid. Break to bulge and directly up.

Start: Start at the painted square beneath the big slabby area.

Apparently this navigates similar territory as ZM, but at 16 grades less...

Start: Start 2m L of ZM.

...is all Gordon wants to say to you.

Start: Start as for ZM.

Up the corner of ZM, then the line 1.5m L through the roof.

Start: Start as for ZM.

The description is reproduced verbatim because it doesn't match anything visible in the topo. Maybe it makes more sense when walking along the base...if you can be bothered.

Start: "Start from the large block below the orange slab capped by a roof."

Gross black chimney.

Start: The chimney just R of the 'Jug City' diagonal.

Straight up over the steeper bit.

Start: The start is initialled, just R of JC.

Up the groove then follow the diagonal up rightwards.

Start: Start below the L end of the diagonal which caps a smooth wall at the left end of 'Left Wall'.

Looks quite good.

Start: Start 5 metres left of 'Pancake' on top of a small boulder that leans against the wall.

Start behind two large boulders leaning on each other. 'Small' crack corner just (less than a metre) right of a fist crack.

The corner left of 'Ground Floor' also has good rock and boasts one hard move. Just doesn't feel as good as 'Ground Floor'.

Lovely rock and climbing. Faint, scratched initials GF mark the start.

The first ascent was complicated by a large detached flake that was encountered at the end of the crux. Now it's just good fun.

A diabolical mantle on superb rock gets you going, then sustained climbing with fiddly pro until it eases towards the top. The start can also be done by starting on the right but only seconds seem to do this because it's quite insecure.

Start: Start 2 metres left of 'Hitting The Wall'. Clear initials SF.

The crack 6 metres left of the cave on the north-eastern side with a good move past the bulge. A small white square marks the start.

Fairly short and the encroaching tree branches would be distracting.

Takes the arete just right of where the hole comes through the cliff on the north-east side.

Not appealing, and the tree-branches obscuring the climb don't help.

Has novelty value and the easy starting corner has good rock.

Start 1 metre left of the large cave-recess on the western side (about 5 metres left of Eye Of The Needle) at a sharp crack/corner.