Routes as trad in Grampians

Ridiculously popular.

Start: Start at the thin crack just R of 'Tootsie'.

Easy climbing up a nice corner with lots of gear placements.

A stunning corner crack, featuring sustained climbing with great rock and great gear all the way.

Start: The major corner 20m right of 'Manic Depressive'

One of the best easy routes in the entire 'Grampians'. 'Fantastic' pro and steep buckety climbing.

Start: Start 5m L of TC, at the base of the chimney.

A good'n.

Start: Start at the initialled R-facing corner down the left end of 'Back Wall'.

Climb the prominent black streak and then carefully up the booming flake.

Start: Start about 5m R of 'Mururoa'.

A fantastic intricate face which looks unlikely at the grade.

Start: Start at the dusty base of the wall, beneath the silvery streak.

Brilliant climb taking the corner systems marking the right side of the great wall right of 'Tourist Buttress'.

Generally well protected but there are some large apparently loose or detached blocks at crucial points.

Start: Start up a rippled wall 3 metres right of Last Rites.

1. 24m (12) Up wall for 12 metres then traverse right to corner. Climb corner to block and traverse right to ledge and chain anchor. Contemplate that this ledge used to be occupied by a large tree that people belayed and abseiled from.

2. 36m (15) Climb the sustained corner, taking care with a large loose block. Continue straight up to belay on a pinnacle. A belay is also possible a few metres lower than this.

3. 15m (13) Continue up to a ledge and traverse left below the overhang to below a big corner.

4. 27m (14) Up the corner, moving into the right hand line at about 15 metres. Continue up and make your way over an huge, hopefully jammed block and make an intimidating traverse right to an exposed, small stance. Belay here or move a few metres higher to a better ledge (watch the rope drag though).

5. 15m (11) From the tiny stance, step right, then up for 5 metres. Traverse left and finish up left groove.

1. 25m (feels a bit harder than 12.) Note: 1 guidebook says 20 metres, another says 28m, somewhere in between? Up to ledge, then up a bit further before moving left to where you'll see two carrots - one old and manky, the other slightly less so. Often a wet streak just above. Continue up to a stance at right end of obvious horizontal breaks. Good trad anchor here. Older guidebooks say there's bolt belay but we didn't see one.

2. (10m). Awesome traverse with great gear and easy climbing to massive ledge and trad belay.

3. (24m). Up the wall behind the distinctive horns to trad belay at top.

Descent: Follow foot pad to descent gully and rap anchor above 'Island Cruise'

Thin crack with lots of good holds and bomber gear!

Distinctive corner on the second terrace L and uphill from the bottom cliff. DBB above this route - do not use tree as anchor.

Great first half then a silly low angled slab.

Start: Start 5m L of HH.

An unsung gem. A long, sustained and surprisingly airy adventure at a very accessible grade and with good pro. 2 stars may be slightly generous, but should help drum up the attention this route deserves.

Start: Start 3m L of 'Soweto'.

Superb well protected climbing on great rock.

Start: About 100m right of 'Blimp' is an attractive bleached arete. 'Pathos' takes the front of the arete up the seam. There is a subtle marking (chiseling) in the rock with the letter P and a square next to it (not painted).

A magnificent climb up a great line. The first pitch can be avoided by scrambling up the slabs below 'Technical Ecstasy' and traversing in. Do the finish as described (it's worth it) and save the obvious finish for 'Technical Ecstasy'. Take 1 or 2 large cams (e.g. #4 or #5 camalot).

Start: Start as for 'Gross Encounters', 1m R of gully.

1. 30m (8) Climb the short wall to large ledge, up to next ledge and follow overlap R to long, narrow treed ledge where the wall steepens (the scramble from 'Technical Ecstasy' comes in here from the right). Move up then L off ledge and belay on small ledge at foot of huge corner, about 7m below obvious cave.

2. 35m (18) Up to cave and out R and up to FH at lip (a thin sling can protect the clip) and follow the line. At 25m exciting moves lead into the thin line just to the R. Belay on a great small ledge with an old (untrustworthy) carrot bolt and bomber trad.

3. 20m (18) On until 4m below the roof. Traverse L (wildly exposed) across the wall to easy ground.

Quite popular.

Start: Start at the juggy crack R of BN.

Good, but bears no similarity to the 'Buffalo' megaclassic!

Start: Start 2-3m R of OB.

1. 12m (10) The line to the ledge.

2. 12m (10) Continue up the line with some brittle rock.

Classic.

Start: Climbs small corner above boulder blocking track. Initialed.

Good to link pitch 2 and 3. The Pitch 2 crux can be protected with Camalot 4s and a 5 and/or micro wires and a rusty piton.

1. 15m (14) Step right at 3m and climb poorly protected wall, or go L and climb the arete.

2. 17m (17) Up shallow offwidth corner past historic piton.

3. 14m (17) Step up from ledge and traverse left in hand crack under overhang to vertical crack. Up.

Up the wide crack to halfway then up the juggy R arete to the top.

Start: Start at the wide crack just R of 666.

Faintly initialed. Nice corner with tree near the top. Clean climbing with a mixture of bridging and face climbing.

Climbs don't come any better than this. Sustained quality climbing all the way but be warned that it also has its share of loose blocks, poor rock and spaced protection.

Start: Start as for 'Speculation', at line leading into substantial left-facing corner about 25 metres right of 'Debutante', 4 metres left of a large tree which has recently fallen over, 8 metres left of the clear initial D marking the start of 'Diane'. Used to be marked with a faint initial S but this could not be seen recently (2013).

1. 24m (15) Up the line and through the bulge. Continue easily to a ledge and move left along it a couple of metres to good anchors.

2. 23m (17) Move back right and climb the sustained corner to a sloping ledge.

3. 24m (17) Move 3 metres left and climb the diagonal flake leading back right into the corner. Steeply up the corner past loose blocks to ledge on the left.

4. 23m (17) From top of detached block pull onto steep juggy wall and up thin crack-line. Up and right to small, bottomless left-facing corner. Steeply up this, dubious rock, then move left and up to a ledge.

5. 23m (16) Up, then slightly left to left-facing corner which leads to the top.At the start of this pitch it is tempting to move up right to what loooks like an easy escape. Don't do it! The top-outs that way are hard and horrible.

The sandbag steep crack 5m L of TRatBB.

Initialed. Excellent route following steep intimidating crack. Start 6m left of camping cave straight up the overhanging crack. Crux is near the final bulge overhang. Protection is fantastic the whole way, sucking up red and yellow BD Camelot's.

50m or so right of the cave is a striking corner. Initialled. There is frequently an active beehive over the lip near the top. They were quite active 1st April 2016.

THE line leading up and through the major roof. Don't bother with any other version of Basilisk, just do this one.

Crack system 2m L of Beelzebub.

Finish direct up the thin face above the juggy crack.

Start: Start as for 'Tootsie'.

"Continuously steep between the vertical and the overhanging", Speedie. A very interesting angle and a bloody good climb. One of the best of its grade. Consistently difficult and strenuous, can be done in one pitch if double ropes are used.

Start: Find the "T" inscription at the corner 15m L of Zola and just R of the large overhang.

1. 20m (14) Ascend the wall just R of the crack, passing a horizontal slot which accepts a #4 camalot (and that's the only pro you'll be likely to get in the first 4m), and up to ledge at 9m. Traverse 3m L and go steeply up another groove to a ledge.

2. 15m (14) Traverse 3m R and up steep crack for 8m. Near the top, move L a bit before moving up to the top. This helps to avoid some loose blocks.

Long and sustained at the grade. Amazingly neglected considering the hordes which swamp the much smaller 'Back Wall' only 20m away.

Start: Start 3-4m L of SiS beneath the deep black corner/crack up high.

Takes right crack up through the "toilet seat." Well protected.

The popular first pitch is a beautiful scoop of rock with a tenuous traverse and remarkably sustained climbing for the length of the scoop. The business is a little short to rank up there with Taipan's very best, but it's still awesome. Pitch 2 is rarely done but is an absolute blast. Start at the DRB atop Kaa p1, accessed as described above. (There is an old direct start with a couple of bolts (described on the Spurt Wall page), but nobody bothers with it).

1. 20m (28) This pitch is almost a sport route as it contains a few fixed wires to supplement the bolts, but most people also put in a few medium cams. It's a very popular pitch due to its squishy grade, and is many climbers' first 28. Step right past RB and up reachy wall past wires to big break. Swing over rooflet (wire) then traverse R across scoop. Pump up the subtle R arete of the scoop (2 RBs + wire) then a tricky conclusion up L to break. Clip-and-go lower-off (16m to ledge, 30m to ground).

2. 20m (26) Traverse 5m L from the lower off then up the red scoop (bolt, med cams) into cave above (optional 2no of carrot bolt plates on spacious ledge: pitch 1 originally went to here). Out right side of cave to top and lower off (80m rope recommended). Rebolted 2017. This pitch is most easily approached via Mr V.

Fantastic climbing from start to finish. Double ropes or lots of slings help, especially if you want to run some pitches together. The corners are often fused but can be protected fairly well with cams from 00-4 (especially 0.4-0.75) and loads of wires.

Start: Left facing flake-finger crack 10 metres right of RIP Corner.

1. 33m (18) Up flake to sloping ledge and piton at 15 metres. Then: The obvious way is to climb directly to the overhang and then hand traverse wildly right to the arete. The original way is to step right around the arete from the foot of or just below the sloping ledge then up the wall to the lip of the overhang and a piton. Now that the two ways have joined, pull over the bulge (be careful with the flake) onto the wall above. Either belay on a small stance on the left just above the overhang or continue up several metres to a slightly larger stance on the right.

2. 24m (18) Up short steep featured corner, left into beautiful thin corner then up to belay on small foot ledge on right below open crackless corner. (Pitches 2 and 3 are often combined.)

3. 26m (19) Gain access to the next corner left by stepping down and hand traversing the horizontal hand crack or charging up diagonally straight off the belay. Either method is pretty bold but not too hard. Up corner and past a piton to a small ledge on the left arete. Up juggy wall to long ledge below overhangs.

4. 33m (17) Take the awesome steep left-facing corner left of the roof until it eases and up crack to top.

The low crux has hard-to-place gear which regularly pops and serves out grounders. Good moves though.

Start: Start 6m L of 21CSM.

A strenuous single pitch, mostly superb 22-23ish but with a distinct hard section. It takes the main arete-like thing bounding the L side of this large red scooped out section of cliff. Start on the elevated ledge, 3m L of the top of the boulder you scrambled up.

1. 28m (26) Easily up ramp/corner to break under roof. Scuttle R to strenuous roof flake (FH) and onto slab. A small arete (hangerless bolt) leads to the much steeper main arete with 3 FHs. A bomber titanium (!) piton plus a few small-med cams protect the roofy juggy finish to the rap station (30m to the ground).

2. 20m (-) Garry Phillips bolted an extension in 2006 (still a closed project). It's a V9-ish traverse R from the anchors to the black streak, then straight up the black streak to a fairly low anchor (45m to the ground). However this version is mostly redundant since the completion of Southern Delight and Trouser Snake.

An adventure. There are at least 3 ways of getting past the cave. The way I consider best is used in the description and the alternatives are at the end.

Start: Start at the base of diagonal ramp that 'Sluice' and other routes scramble up. For this route, it is probably easier to belay from the ground than to set up a belay at the top of the ramp.

1. 35m (10) Follow the ramp then up the corner that is the continuation of the ramp until able to move R to belay in the large cave.

2. 25m (10) Move out the next hole along from the one you entered by (feels ridiculously exposed) climb the pillar on the L (facing the cliff), with poor protection at first (crux). Continue up buttress to a ledge. Rope drag and communication can be difficulties. (Variants 2a. (10) Instead of traversing R into the cave, continue up the corner and move back R above the cave. Move R-wards to rejoin the route. 2b. Move back out of the hole that the cave was entered from and climb the rib to the R (facing the cliff).)

3. 35m (-) Up a series of walls to another large cave which these days is increasingly frequented by boulderers (Ground Control Caves) so you might feel a bit over-dressed with a rope on!

4. 20m (-) Either traverse L for 10m to rappel anchors or continue to top.

First route encountered on the main cliff from carpark. Thin crack on detached pillar, then slightly R and up. Active beehive 2/3 up as at Dec 2018

Light line in the middle of the wall behind Bird Wall proper and faintly initialed "F". Up double sided flake to groove and crack above. First recorded ascent: Bill Andrews, Allan Hope Jan 1987

Cruxy.

Start: Start between 'Regatta' and 'De Blanc'.

Nice and long for these parts.

Start: Initialled corner a few m R of 'Cypress'.

1. 12m (9) Up corner to the ledge. The variant moves R at the flake then up the wall (15).

2. 12m (9) The crack on the L.

Initialled corner R of Moloch, eventually leading to the same belay ledge and up line of least resistance to top.

1. [24] 32m

   Crank off cairn to the break, then traverse left for 6-8m. Up over bulges past FHs, to a slopey ledge (#3 cam). (Don't go diagonally up left from 2nd FH, there's no gear). Traverse left to short arête and up this (FH) to belay (25m rap).

2. [29] 40m

   This is why they rave about Taipan. Roof, trend right across scoop, hug up turret to horizontal break. Move left then weave up wall to the top. 8 FHs. Trad anchor, or lower 30m off the last bolt.

This famous line was the first route on the wall which cried out for the mythical fourth star. Now re-bolted by HB with 75mm ball head expansions (the original laser-cut fixed hangers remain), HB also put in an anchor 1.5m to the right (you still have to top out). PLEASE DON'T PISS ON THE BELAY LEDGE (bring a pee bottle for long belay sessions). Aiming left or outwards is NOT Ok, you WILL be pissing on other pitches and yes they do get climbed. Start on the cairn on the raised ledge, directly below the obvious huge arete of 'Naja'.

The obvious line.

Start: Start in the middle of the wall.

"An interesting variant start to Bagatelle. Takes the low angled crack in the grey slab 5m left of Bagatelle before moving right and finishing as for that route." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

Another superb line. The best 27 in the 'Grampians' - although most think its actually 28!

Start: Start about 8m R of After Midnight.

Another brilliant climb with a desperate crux on the frist pitch followed by an absolutely sublime second pitch. Sharing the top pitch and a half with 'Heretic' doesn't detract from it.

Start: Start 8 metres right of 'Heretic', about 33 metres right of 'Debutante' just right of a large tree that has fallen over. Clear initial D.

1. 32m (18) Up easy crack then step up and right and up hard groove through overhang. Above go up then left more easily to ledge below main corner.

2. 40m (17) Up fantastic corner until it eases at about 24 metres (belay possible). Step right then up for a bit before moving back into the line. Up to a good ledge on the left.

3. 25m (17) Up weakness in overhangs above and veer left up easy, poorly protected face to left end of overlap. Now continue as for 'Heretic' up small, bottomless left-facing corner. Steeply up this, dubious rock, then move left and up to a ledge.

4. 23m (16) Up, then slightly left to left-facing corner which leads to the top.

An elegant climb up the line delimiting the R side of the slabs.

Start: Start as for 'Sluice'.

1. 35m (17) As for 'Sluice', the L-leaning groove to big slot with hard move at 25m. Traverse R to terrace.

2. 30m (17) An attractive, diagonal corner rises from the terrace. Either climb the wall L of the corner to start or take the corner all the way to the next terrace.

3. 10m (-) Up L to abseil anchors.

Corner as for FH then L under roofs and up. Big cam(s) handy.

Up initial corner of Odlin Baggins but bust right onto the flake at 5m (ish) and head directly up from there.

Initialed. Undercut crack providing sustained jamming. There was a cam (BD C4 #0.3) stuck in the crux May 2016. Don't bother trying to retrieve it - it has a broken trigger wire, so pulling the release does nothing.

A beautiful gobsmacking line. The manky old carrots at the start have now been placed with rings. A long stick-clip is required as the crux is the start.

Start: Start 3m R of the base of the rock step separating the upper and lower tiers of the crag.

Surprisingly good.

This route has been upgraded from 16 to 17 in the guide "Sublime Climbs" 2011 by K.Lindroff, J.Goding & J. Hodgson.

Personally, I tend to agree with the upgrade (Con Dritsas).

The stunning overhanging diagonal. The easiest way up this wall! The protection is brilliant and the pump is always present. One of the best lines in the Grampians.

Start: Starts about 20m right of where the track hits the cliff.

Simply awesome. Sustained, technical and amazing climbing the whole way.

Start: As you walk up to the cliff you chimney just past the start (on a sloping ledge to your left) before you get to a ledge and big flat rock up on your right (great place for photos).

Bolted, featured black streak in the centre of wall. Retrobolted, but crux bolt is still old and dodgy. Take some wires, slings, medium cams to supplement bolts. No anchor - top out or diagonal across to anchor on Sprung after 2nd last bolt.

The exposed face and arete near the top are great.

Start: Start beneath the line of 'Mururoa'.

Start on the left side of the cave. Climb the broken corner to a ledge, then pull over an overhang to a guano- stained ledge (loose rock). Up the steep crack to a horizontal break on the left wall, and then crank for the top. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009).

To help protect rock art in the cave, when starting the route it is requested that you avoid the black overhung offwidth crack, and instead use the easy broken handcrack an arm span to the left (I think we can be pretty sure that this is the way that everyone has climbed this route since the beginning of time, and this start doesn't need to be written up as a different route).

Takes the left crack underneath the "toilet seat." Follow greasy crack to top.

Originally finished into 'Overkill' but this way keeps it independent.

Start: Start 3m R of O, just L of the wide crack.

The brilliant first pitch is one of the most popular at Taipan and was a very impressive effort by the young bumblies Jared and Simon. Often cited as the best 25 in Australia. Pitch 2 is far less popular, but still excellent. Start from the R-hand end of the ledge, 4m R of Anaconda's flake. Set a belay, or belay from the ground.

1. 28m (25) Pockets and mantles to ledge. Move R along wide break then slopes lead to a spike hold. Head R to arete then up to break. Blast up the R side of the groove above, finally trending L to a compact cave with DRB lower-off (28m to tree then swing back in to ledge (60m rope), or 38m to ground (70m rope)). A #2.5Fr is needed to eliminate nasty fall potential below the crux bolt, & most climbers also place 1 or 2 large wires & a #3.5Fr.

2. 15m (26) Bring a bolt plate for the belay setup; there's a carrot which lets you get comfy in the cave and spend less time stuck on the uncomfortable hanging belay. A techy big dyno to start, then some great technical moves up the vague arete. 4 bolts, trad, & rap chain (15m to 1st belay, 48m to ground).

This mixed route is located on the first terrace/alcove (uphill and L of main cliff). Slabby seam L of chimney.

Good climbing all the way up one of the compelling features of The Amphitheatre. All cams, with doubles up to 2½. The final three pitches could be cut to two with careful rope, equipment and mental management. The reachy start to the second pitch has been tamed with a cairn, combined tactics would be a preferable solution.

Start: Start as for 'The Walltower Castle'.

1. 20m (19) Up 3m, move R and up, bolt, to ledge. Easy, unprotected slab to tree (as for Blank Frank).

2. 40m (21) Move the belay R 10m to boulders on the terrace beneath short, overhanging wall. Pull up and swing right on horizontal breaks in the initial steep wall, crank up to bolt, then move L a little and go up to large horizontal break. Straight up short wall to R end of long, bushy ledge. Traverse R to line of flakes up centre of face and bolt. Up flakes then slabs to bolts.

3. 20m (20) Up slab, 2 bolts, to diagonal crack leading to main overhang and up to overhang. Pull onto overhang, undercling and layback flake, hand traverse R to rest. Wide step R to semi-hanging belay from cams.

4. 15m (15) Diagonally R up face to ledge that leads across to belay in 'Sluice'.

5. 25m (19) 'Sweet Dreams'.

Classic technical thin wall climbing. Was once quite runout and dangerous - but this has been tamed (with permission from FA). Start at the left end of the raised ledge. Belaying from the ground might be an idea to reduce the fall factor.

The corner to the ledge (optional belay) then more easily.

Start: The main corner.

Old fashioned fun up the deep chimney crack 25m right of Pathos and just left of the prow of Flying Circus.

"A slightly tricker finish to Bagatelle. Up Bagatelle then follow the right hand corner/ crack to the top. Beware of loose rock on the stance below final off-width." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

This is the climb that puts the "F" back into grade 12. 'Steep' and sustained and requiring route-finding ability. Pay close attention to the description especially on the third and fourth pitches. Pitches 1 & 2 are best combined because of the poor belay options but great care will need to be taken with drag with lots of slings required.

Start: The line 6 metres right of 'Diane' which is clearly initialled D. To There are no longer usable initials at the base of climb, but just to the right are clear initials KK.

1. 24m (12) Climb the line which leads into a steep corner. Up this until it eases to a small stance below a crack on the right wall.

2. 24m (11) This pitch is not as well protected as the rest of the climb. Up to the foot of a small flaring chimney where there is a useless old peg. Go 2 metres up chimney then boldly traverse right for 5 metres. Go up past another useless old peg to a good ledge. There is a large dead tree in this vicinity, don't belay on it.

3. 20m (10) On up the line for 15 metres (do not go too high) then step right to the foot of a corner.

4. 21m (11) Traverse 3 metres right then up scrubby gully to a ledge in the corner. Steeply up corner and belay on the right. Not a great pitch.

5. 31m (9) Climb up wall for 5 metres and then go right into obvious crack which veers up right.

An excellent and sustained outing offering well-protected slab and face climbing up the middle of the highest section of the wall. The 21 year-old carrots on the first pitch were recently replaced with glue-ins.

Start: Scramble R up the diagonal ramp near the R side of the Green Wall and back L (best to rope up) to the base of a smooth water runnel (the direct start is grade 22).

1. 30m (18) Bridge delicately up the obvious water-groove (mainly on its L side), past six glue-in P-bolts and a few small to medium cams. Move up L to belay/rappel rings.

2. 30m (20) Up R'wards on jugs, then up past a bolt on the smooth wall. Continue straight on up to the top of the big flake crack. Follow the sustained clean wall past four bolts to the belay/rappel rings below the fifth pitch of The Shining Path. Note that this pitch crosses the old route Drifting and a bolt was placed within reach (permission from the first ascentionist) and does not affect Drifting in any way.

3. 15m (19) The last pitch of The Shining Path.

The first pitch was originally climbed (as two very short pitches) and named Spillway by Gary Kerkin and Michael Stone in 1966, then freed by John Chapman in 1975. The route as described was climbed by Glenn Tempest and Karen Tempest when they added the second pitch in 2024.

Absolutely fantastic. The hard first pitch corner can be a show-stopper and the third pitch arete is awesomely exposed and not brilliantly protected.

Start: Beautiful corner just right of 'Tourist Buttress'. Clear initial A.

1. 33m (21) Corner which gets progressively harder. After the corner, step right around the overhang to the deep V-groove which forces you to play twister (you can either escape left to holds on the arete, or continue up groove), to bolt anchor at ledge.

2. 9m (-) Diagonally up left and around arete to small stance.

3. 40m (21) Follow twin thin cracks up the front of the buttress. Protection is OK but not brilliant. This pitch finishes at a bolt belay (60m abseil to the ground), below the recent rockfall.

4. 35m (-) Easily up lefthand line or do 'Scarface' (20) which is just to left.

Takes in some wonderful airy positions. The first pitch is excellent and the second and third pitches, though not in the same class, aren't bad.

Start: Starts in a little bay in the middle of the wall (initialled).

1. 40m (11) Climb straight up the buttress, the angle easing with height. Belay level with a rightward leading horizontal traverse.

2. 45m (10) Traverse 6m right to a delectable crack which leads up to the overhang. Continue up the line, into and up a small chimney.

3. 15m (-) The chimney to the top.

Outstanding and varied line. The magnificent orange face 3-5m to the right of Koalasquatsy. Start up Koalasquatsy for 5m and then lurch rightwards on slopers to a RB. Up the face above (RB) then over tricky roof to gain hanging right facing flake. Up this to DRB lower-off in small cave. The route used to top-out up the major choss before SCV installed the anchors.

"Any object, wholly or partially immersed in a fluid, is buoyed up by a force equal to the weight of the fluid displaced by the object." Routes like this are why you travel for hours/days to get to the 'Grampians'. First 2 pitches are often worked in 1 pitch from the ground.

Start: Start under a low bolt at the base of the most impressive part of the wall.

1. 20m (22) Up past the bolt then R along a break to a semi-hanging belay.

2. 30m (25) The grey line of holds up the otherwise blank wall. Sucks up dozens of med-large wires. Often done on preplaced gear which probably drops a grade.

3. 10m (26) A little boulder problem around the roof past a bolt. Nobody seems to bother with this pitch.

Up the middle of the face.

Start: Start just R of PD.

Great climbing including 'Spillway' and the best bit of 'Sluice', leading straight up to the apex in the huge overhangs. Take large cams.

Start: Start as for 'Spillway'.

1. 33m (18) Up Spillway's slabby groove with 6 bolts and some cams until the groove ends at a bush, move L to belay.

2. 30m (19) Follow the line up diagonally L to the overhang. Climb the flake overhang and up to ledge on R.

3. 25m (19) Straight up the line, directly through the overhang and continue up the overhanging corner in a sensational situation.

Up crack for a few moves then left onto wall, trend left up wall to thin seam at top.

Excellent. Thin and technical to start, and thuggish steep on good holds to finish. Well protected mega classic. Better than Blimp? Better than Pathos? Let you be the judge... Take a bolt plate.

Start: About 50-100m left of 'Manic Depressive' is an alcove with an east facing wall. DT is the major crack line going full height.

Front of small buttress 5m R of Mongoose, straight up, finishing through small roof.

Extraordinary moves on immaculate rock. If you're picky you might deduct a star due to the numerous rests, and the bouldery crux start being several grades harder than the final 25m. Tougher than many Taipan 26s, but easier than Sirocco so it can't be 27 ... can it?! Often repeated using only the bolts with some 6-8m runouts, but most people also use a couple of wires and cams.

Start as for Sirocco pitch 2, delicately to the horizontal break at 3m (cam). Step R then up cruxy wall (2 RBs) to ledge. Step R to RB, up the juggy scoop (wires), then veer L to stance below roof. RB on lip, then a long reach/dyno gains the delightful grey headwall (3 RBs, cam). Lower-off (30m+ to ledge, tie a knot in the end of 60m ropes, or 48m to the ground). Rebolted ~2006.

A great 25ish variant avoids the crux past the 2nd bolt by moving L below it, joining Sirocco for a few moves then rejoining Father O above the 2nd bolt.

An independent start has also been done off the ledge, its protected by tiny trad and, instead of sharing the first few metres of Sirocco p2 off the L end of the ledge, it goes up and a bit left from the middle of the ledge to the 1st bolt of Father O.

A bouldery start gives way to an easier conclusion.

Start: Start 3m R of 'Flake of Fear'.

"Start at the corner system near the right end of the grey, lichen covered slab. Initialled. Follow the left crack and finish up the left hand corner." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

A novelty classic up an exposed prow.

Start: Start just left of the overhanging arete on the right side of the Echo's block, which is downhill and 15m left from 'Rip Tide'. A faint painted 'cave' sign is visible at the start.

Beautiful, steep ripply wall. Start easily just right of smooth orange rock (can be started direct via RB 4m R of OSB). Up right along ramp, ignoring high RB, then up past RB, step left to runners and straight up to horizontal break. Blast boldly up bulge to RB and on to chain. Trad gear is small/med cams and wires. Rebolted 2017

Not much pro to start.

Start: On the right side of the "arch" which dominates the 'Wall of Fools' is a vertical seam leading up to a right-facing corner. Start half a metre right of the seam.

A lovely orange corner leads to an exciting traverse. Slightly marred by a scrappy approach and finish.

Start: Start below orange corner R of 'Benn Gunn'.

The best route in the area of it's grade. Starts 4m right of A Burnt Out Case at small roof/overlap. Seams and horizontals to open book corner and tricky final face.

The superb crack leading to the first belay of 'Debutante' is intimidating but has excellent holds and gear.

Start: Below the overhang about 5 metres right of 'Debutante'.

The grey face around right of the cave. Up weird chimney-crack, left along horizontal and climb pocketed wall above.

An excellent climb that gets progressively harder. It starts at the overhung flake 6m left of SB.

1. 46m (10) Up rounded features to join the crack system, to belay on ledge above a tricky move

2. 20m (17) Move up, then right into finger crack, before gaining a ledge. Traverse left on this - with poor feet - to the flake. Belay at the left end of the ledge. This pitch has long been given the grade 15. It deserves an upgrade seeing that it is far more pumpy than any of the 18s at this crag!

3. 15m (12) As for 'Beeline'

Can be done in 2 pitches, belay from the large ledge at half way. May add another bolt.

Start on the left of the grey arete.

Follow 2 BR to ledge (possible belay). Straight up past another bolt for 6m then step right to finish up juggy arête. Anchors to descend to the right on top of The Extension Lead or walk off back.