Ascents of Snake Flake

Very unique, everyone had different, equally strange beta.

2nd burn. Nice boulder crux sequence with lovely climbing up the top.

Mantle move is so awkward, shame because the dyno below and the chill glory jugs above are so good

Note to Future Paul: Don't keep getting on this route, you always hate it!

The climbing is "generally" really cool (though, obviously, the crux is kinda a disgusting move), but it has the most hideous bolting I've experienced on Taipan, which is clearly designed to make the entire route (and in particular the crux) as unpleasant as possible. Could be salvaged with a RATIONAL rebolt (ie, some minor bolting adjustments and nice rings, not adding bolts).

#2go the name of this climb should definitely reflect the 'climbing out of the toilet bowl'-yness of the whole thing more... very enjoyable after figuring out how the feck to actually do it

Just wish that the route would pack more punches after the crux. A point for dyno!!!

Tried the deadpoint about 30 times.... I'm close, slipping off the hold in slow motion after hitting it... Have to get a bit taller or get a bit stronger before coming back to this one.

Another Taipan bail... Was scoping around for another Taipan project. Top jugs were satched and it's a horribly long runout from the pin to the chains. I also had no idea how to pull the crux move. Super nice flowy climbing though. Maybe one for a future drier day.

One EOD lap at 4:30pm. I've been on this before and hated it for THE one move (and for Jenga Sandbagging me into bringing NO trad gear for it)... Decided to see if my opinion had changed. Answer: No, I still HATE that one move, though the rest of it was great fun with EOD weariness, and placing Trad Gear on link this time. It also has probably the worst equipping of any route I've been on on Taipan, so far.

Did it with a fall, not awesome conditions but will be a go-er next trip. Damm that move!!

Onsight to the crux. Shut down by the crux. Onsight to the top. Scary top section runout when you dont bring any trad gear. 90% of this climb would be a classic Taipan 24, but the crux -though ridiculously weird- is so frustratingly hard and baffling. Never really came up with a viable sequence.

Flash up to the 'move' and after but couldn't stick the weird crux. It's a fun runout to the top from the piton if you don't take gear

Wow the crux is way hard! I could stick the dyno but not every time but had no chance in working out the crux moves. Pulled through both times and enjoyed the climbing to the top. Till next time when its cooler.

Onsight 1998

Needed to finish this off... Belayed Quentin on the project so took the opportunity to get the weird stand-up beta... got it right away and practiced three times then got the tick... it's really a one-move wonder... maybe 22 to the top?

Mostly easier and scarier than expected. The crux is pretty tricky. Need to get back on. Super position.

one slip at the hard move...

Love the Hitler move

Only 4 shots? Must have been the hawt team looking on

Hated it untill i worked out a way to do it without groveling, Two big dynos and bizzare horizontal funkness make it super rad. The Macdougal is lame!

2nd shot. awkward crux but wat a position

Very close to the onsight. 2nd shot.

Just missed the flash by 1 hold! Love the butt check mantle. [2]

sooo close!! Next time

2nd attempt

funkiest crux move ever