A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Joe Goding Kieran Loughran Campbell Gome Dale Rankin Lachlan Hick Cam McKenzie Mark Wood Blue Mountains Orangutan holly
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
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Table of contents
- 1.
The Far Pavilion
33 in Crag
- 1.1. Far Pavilion Left Side 8 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. The Far Pavilion 33 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -37.217942, 142.271858
Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.
Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.
Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.
Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.
Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.
Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.
Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.
Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.
Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.
Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.
Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.
description
A mighty face with strong natural lines, high up on the Vic range, directly up behind Red Rocks. Due to low traffic, some climbs can be sandy - bring a brush! But rock quality is generally excellent. Double ropes handy, and there is a rap station (40m) above The Iron Curtain, which services most of the climbs on the main face, or walk down the large gully to the North.
access issues
While the Vic Range has a high concentration of Cultural Values (and all care must be taken at all crags), the Mt Fox area is within the NV8 (potential Rock Wallaby site), and not within any of the Cultural Value SPA's in the area.
approach
Walk up past / left of Red Rocks, the track is cairned better in the last section. About 15mins downhill from the crag, and 200m further south, don't miss the fabulous rock pools, which are just downhill from small orange cliff/cave down in the creek (which is easier to see from up near the Far Pavilion).
ethic
Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.
Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.
===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===
For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
The Andrew Martin Memorial Climb
The chimney. Start: The large right facing corner left of "Kava Boy" FA: Lachlan Hick, 2006 | 12 | 50m | |||||
2 |
INGVAR LIDMAN PROJECT
above "Let Sleeping Buffalo's lie" is an obvious (very) steep crack, which cuts left across a huge roof. There are some bolt runners above the roof. There is also a very handy rap station at the top of the route which is also useful for 'Kava Boy', and "Karenina". Just be careful when stepping down to it! FA: All Ingvar needs is a willing belayer, a decent day & this will go down for sure!, 2000 | |||||||
3 |
Let the Fun Begin
Wall to L of 'Kava Boy' 1) (16) Climb chimney between slab and wall, past first thrutchy section, then step right onto wall. Up wall, with rock getting better as height is gained, tending right to belay below small corner on near arête. 2) (16) Up corner, step left, then straight up wall to final off width crack, which can be avoided on the right. Descent via main wall walk off via major gully. FA: Nic Kiraly & Steve Holloway (alt), 2005 | 16 | 55m | |||||
4 |
★★ Let Sleeping Bluffalos Lie
Ingvar has confirmed the grade. Up the wall left of Kava Boy. Bouldery start from block leads to easier, but sustained moves, not overly bolted, but, safe. Rap anchor on ledge. FA: Lachlan Hick, 2006 | 24 | 30m, 8 | |||||
5 |
The Five Year Plan
FA: Chris Snell & Ross Taylor (alt), 2009 | 18 | 50m, 2 | |||||
6 |
★★ Kava Boy
Supposed to be very good Start: Towards the L end of the main wall is a steep right leaning diagonal crack-line leading up to a prominent hanging buttress, right of a major corner capped by a large roof.
FA: Louise Shepherd & Steve Burke, 1989 | 19 | 60m, 3 | |||||
7 |
★★★ Karenina
Neil raved about this one long into the night... A sustained and direct line straight up the face right of 'Kava Boy'. The second pitch is like an easier version of 'Archimedes Principle'.
FA: Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie, 2005 | 22 | 60m, 3 | |||||
8 |
Propaganda
FA: Nick Kiraly & Steve Holloway (alt), 2005 | 19 | 60m | |||||
9 |
Siegeing Babylon
Nice face climbing to gain the central crack. Follow 'Far Horizons' to the 'impending block of doom'. Diagonally left up flakes in middle of wall until holds run out. Move L then up with trepidation to gain horizontal. Easily up central crack to belay on terrace. Roped traverse off R (10m). FA: Mark Rewi, Steve Holloway & Nicholas Kiraly (a couple of previous attempts succumbed to aid), 2006 | 23 | 50m | |||||
10 |
★ Little Johnny Warpig
Takes second corner crack to the right of 'Kava Boy'. As for 'Far Horizons' to belay ledge, continue for a few meters up short clean corner, step left to base of crack. Up corner crack to belay on terrace. Rope scramble off right. FA: Steve Holloway, Mark Rewi & Nic Kiraly, 2006 | 18 | 45m | |||||
11 |
Hairy Legs
Just a route. 1) As for Far Horizons. 2) 25m Go directly up wall between Far Horizons and the corner. FA: Michael Hampton & Martin Tatton (alt), 2005 | |||||||
12 |
★ Far Horizons
The easy central section of the main wall, 25m L of Glasnost, offers pleasant climbing. Pro is spaced on the first pitch. 1) 30m The groove system below the major corner is climbed to a belay on the R wall. 2) 30m Traverse R to the obvious cracked arête. Up crack easily to overhang near the top. Up L side of overhang, then step airily R to finish up short corner. FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth (alt) & Robert Marshall, 1989 | 15 | 60m | |||||
13 |
★★ 500 Days
An ambitious program to overcome the economic crisis in the Soviet Union by means of transition into market economy. Also relates to how much time we seem to be spending at this amazing crag.
FA: Steve Holloway (Pitches 1 & 2) Damien Heath (Pitch 3), 2006 | 21 | 65m, 3 | |||||
14 |
★ Glastnost
A solid route in an excellent position on great rock.
FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood (alt), 1990 | 24 | 50m | |||||
15 |
Stephen Holloway Project (closed)
Up Glasnost for about 10m, then traverse right past FH (has bright red tape on it). FA: PLEASE LEAVE THIS ALONE UNTIL STEVE FINALLY THROWS IN THE TOWEL (UNLIKELY), 2000 | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Cold War
Peter Mills and Nic Kiraly raved about this route for almost 2 weeks after repeating it. The words "Awesome", "stunning" and "mindblowing" could be heard repeatedly for the entire night after this ascent. God knows what Steve & Keith's friends had to endure! Needless to say it is sensational and a must do for solid grade 23 leaders, and can be done in one mega-pitch).
FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1989 | 23 | 60m, 2 | |||||
17 |
The Battle of Evermore
A great climb but without the purity of 'The Iron Curtain' (even though it shares much of the best climbing).
FA: Nic Kiraly & Mark Rewi, 2006 | 24 | 55m, 2 | |||||
18 |
The Iron Curtain
A brilliant and well-protected climb. Start: Start as for 'The Cold War'.
FA: P1 Nicholas Kiraly, Mark Rewi, Josef Goding. P2 Nicholas Kiraly & Mark Rewi 2/06, 2005 | 24 | 52m, 2 | |||||
19 |
Mark Rewi Project (closed)
The line to the right of 'Iron Curtain' has 6 bolts and is a project. Expect grade 26. | |||||||
20 |
Sci-fi Lullaby
Climb the initial wall of 'Synthetic Venetian'. At the crack traverse left to the base of the prominent crackline right of 'The Iron Curtain'. Before the crack closes make a rising leftwards traverse (keeping below some loose rock) and then continue straight up slab (crux) and over roof passing 4 bolts to a rap station. Start: Start as for 'Synthetic Venetian'. FA: Ingvar Lidman & Aaron Wilson, 2006 | 24 | 30m | |||||
21 |
Synthetic Venetian
Start off block in 'crevasse', move up to undercling, step left, up cracked wall with good nuts to bulge. Over bulge, (good nuts #6 in left seam, #4 in right - placed on rappel) to crimpy crux. Move left to flake and onto base of crack. Up excellent crack to closed corner, step right at top of crack, bridge up to good stance and rest. Move right under roof, up on slopers to belay on ledge. Either finish up headwall a variety of lines (all desperate and dirty) or rappel from ledge (rap station to be installed on good rock horns) Start: Starts on same terraced area as 'Downtime'. Takes right hand crack/corner line on main wall. FA: Steve Holloway, Mark Rewi & Nic Kiraly, 2005 | 22 | 30m | |||||
22 |
Downtime
Up and over flake to first roof/overlap. Over this on good holds to stance, up wall and through R-hand weakness in second roof/overlap, up to belay on terrace or continue up short but tricky headwall with lots of slopers. Start: Scramble up to blocky terrace at R end of Cold War wall. Takes line around 15-20m right of 'Synthetic Venetian' through series of overlaps at far R end of terrace. FA: Steve Holloway, Geoff Gledhill & Nic Kiraly, 2005 | 18 | 30m | |||||
Right sideThe following routes are on the far RH side, past the main wall. | ||||||||
24 |
Going Down In Flames
The first line R of the R descent gully angles slightly to the R.
FA: Mike Stone & Chris Baxter (alt), 1984 | 15 | 50m | |||||
25 |
The Stench of Christmas
A minor addition. Quaint climbing up the arête R of (Baxter’s route and other crack). Just enough gear down low. FA: Mark Rewi, Steve Holloway & Nic Kiraly, 2005 | 13 | ||||||
26 |
★★ Far Queue
Unknown location. FA: Lachlan Hick, 2006 | 24 | 25m |
1.1. Far Pavilion Left Side 8 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -37.216819, 142.271801
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Beer, Brie and Waku Beef Sausages Maketh the Man
Easy slab leads to fun steep climbing leads to sustained crack. FA: Josef Goding, Lawrie Cowley, Paul Taulien, Peter Mills & Ro Packer., 2005 | 20 | 30m | |||
2 |
Absorbed in Stone
Sustained, delicate and consistently absorbing, but not in the same league as 'Bliss'. A few loose and sandy sections will hopefully tidy up after some traffic. FA: Josef Goding & Geoff Gledhill (alt), 2005 | 18 R | ||||
3 |
Bombs
A bit like Grit. FA: Aaron Wilson & Ingvar Lidman, 2007 | |||||
4 |
★ Bliss Left Wall Variant
Classy face climbing. FA: Mark Rewi, Nicholas Kiraly & Matthew Shepley, 2005 | 20 | 30m | |||
5 |
★ Bliss
Beaut moves in an excellent position on good rock. Takes the sweeping arête / pillar in centre of wall, finishing at double rings. 3 BR's. FA: Joe Godding | 17 | 30m | |||
6 |
Happy Wanderer
Quality climbing. FA: Geoff Gledhill & Josef Goding, 2005 | 15 | 35m | |||
7 |
★ Lolly Gobble
Takes the prominent corner crack system 15m right of 'Bliss'. The start is marked by a leaning Eucalypt. Up a short arete passing 2 FH's before gaining a delightful series of cracks and corners. Step left near the top to finish up the pleasant final crack.Walk over and rap off as for "Bliss" FA: Aaron Wilson, Naomi Cordell & Ingvar Lidman, 2007 | 21 | 30m | |||
8 |
Bruise Pristine
Climb the prominent arete on the left side of the descent gully 30m right of 'Lolly Gobble'. 8 FH's to double ring lower off. Start: About 30m right of 'Lolly Gobble' FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2007 | 25 | 25m |