Nodes in The Flatiron

Visited a few times in the early 90s, then ignored for over a decade. In 2005 the new brigade added over thirty new climbs. This massive north facing cliff is very pleasant on sunny winter days. The best climbing is in the mid grades, but its full potential is yet to be realised. The cliff is very user friendly with good reliable natural protection and there are lower off anchors at the end of many climbs. All bolting has been done at current best practice.

There are a number of project climbs listed which are probably the original stubs and climbs with the actual names have come across from ACA. I could guess most of them but will let someone who knows sort it out.

The amazing LH rising traverse starting at ground level 15m from the start of the cliff and finishing at the DBB above Extreme Ironing! Take all of your cams, and some of your mate's! It is yet to receive a continuous ascent. The grade of pitch 2 is the subject of some debate in the range of 20-22.

Start: Starts at ground level 15m along from the start of the cliff

1. 20m (21) Climb the well protected rising diagonal crack /ledge system awkwardly to the DBB above Black Iron.

2. 24m (21) Traverse left along break to 'Incarceration' DBB. Eats cams up to #3.

3. 6m (14) Keep traversing left across from 'Incarceration' to the DBB of Extreme Ironing!

Right facing hand crack. 15m left of Iron Awe. Up right hand crack, then traverse left to DBB lower off.

nice climbing At the black streak left of Iron Awe. Power up the black streak to the DBB.

Up right leaning crack system over the technical bulge and up to the break. Traverse to the DBB above Black Iron

Start: 5m left of Black Iron

Sustained and technical climbing on Arapiles type rock. Starts 3m left of Iron Lady.

Climb the creases past a FH to the DBB. Take small and medium wires and small cams.

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Follows the major line of the cliff. Originally led in one long pitch. The second pitch has three or four aids (No.1 and 2RPs) to a big bucket, and then sustained free climbing to the top.

There is a DBB at the end of the first pitch.

Start: 12m left of Permanently creased.

1. 16m (23) Straight up the lovely orange corner on perfect 'Grampians' rock. There is a DBB at the end of the first pitch.

2. 29m (- M2) The second pitch has three or four aids (No.1 and 2RPs) to a big bucket, and then sustained free climbing to the top.

Since Michael O’Reilly snapped the crux hold off, this route is one or two grades harder.

Start 4m left of Incarceration at the yellow streak. Climb the easy flake and clip the bolt. Rock up with difficulty, using the small gaston, and climb up to the fingerlocks and technical layback. Go into the nice jams and up to the jugs. Finish easily up the wide trench to the DBB.

Climb this sandy crack system directly to the horizontal undercling and fingertip layback of Ironside (crux). Finish as for 'Iron Side'

to the DBB.

Start: At cracks 3m left of Extreme Ironing!

Just keeps getting harder.

Starts 4m left of Extreme Ironing! After the easy start, climb the weakness & crack system on the left of the arête to the mantle and stance just before clipping the bolt. Don’t pump out too much holding the horizontal undercling before stepping right to position yourself for the fingertip layback (crux). Finish up to the DBB as for Extreme Ironing!

The original climb on the cliff. Starts just left of Iron Side. Climb the major hand crack and corner above the ledge, belay below the ledge. Walk to the lower tree at the edge of the cliff and rap.

Starting off a rock cairn up and left to finish at sling above 'Iron Filings'.

Start: 20m left of New Wave Old Hat, start at the right hand crack.

20m left of New Wave Old Hat, start at the right hand crack. Starting off a rock cairn up and left to finish at sling above Iron Filings.

Good old style climbing. Middle of the three cracks, just left of Pet Willow. Climb up to sling lower off.

Nice climb for gym bunnies. At the left corner crack. Up the left corner crack. Then carefully step right at blocky section. Then up to lower off as for Iron Filings.

3m left of Angle Iron at the toe of the buttress.

P1 (16m, 20) Head up right edge of grey buttress. At steepening step right to follow thin crack through bulge. Up left then carefully up through finger like rocks to belay on ledge (bolt + wire). P2 (12m, 22) Small wires/RP’s to get started. Blast up strenuous crack with bomber gear. Hanging belay on left (large wires). Descent: Either scramble/slide down wide sloping ledge to the rap anchor for New Wave Old Hat, or top out and walk off the back of the cliff to descend down the western end of cliff.

May have been climbed by Glen Tempest and party but not recorded. Start 9m left of Angle Iron and 2 m right of Jaffle Iron. Up wide juggy crack with quite a hard start. Use rap anchors above Iron Lung.

Better than it looks. The corner 2 m left of Robbed. Up corner 2m left of Robbed, over bulge and left onto ledge. Walk left to rap point above Iron Lung.

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

The corner with a steep start, 7m left of 'Jaffle Iron'. The grade allows for fiddly protection through the crux. The blank section

at 4m is avoided by moving left, then rejoining the line, to a ledge at 8m. Traverse left 5m to finish up 'The Weight'. A better finish would be directly up over the improbable orange bulges from the middle of the traverse. Rap anchors above 'Iron Lung'.

Start: 7m left of 'Jaffle Iron'

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

There is a corner becoming three rounded cracks. Climb the right wall of corner, following the right crack to terrace. Rap anchors above 'Iron Lung'.

Start: 4m left of 'Iron Age'.

Crack climbing on lovely orange rock. Start as for The Weight (4m left of Iron Age)

Climb the easy orange corner to the middle crack and directly up to the top and rap anchors.

Up 'Iron Lung' for approximately 6m and left below bulge and

up the left hand crack.

Start: As for 'Iron Lung'.

Climb the technical crack till it ends. Clip the fixed hanger and climb up and diagonally right on spaced holds to finish up 'Irony'.

Start: 2m left of 'Iron Lung'.

Start: 4m left of 'Rust Never Sleeps'. Climb the flake, step right and then motor up the grey streak leftwards through the bulges.

Start: Starts either at the weakness and flake, or at the dogleg crack 4m left of the weakness, below the large grey corner.

1. 35m (16) Climb the weakness, or the dogleg crack, and head up to the large grey corner. Climb the corner and move right to belay beneath the chimney.

2. 35m (12) Climb the classic chimney up to the ledge, past a large chockstone and crack. A final scramble through the rear of the cave leads to the top of the cliff. Walk off the back of the cliff to descend down the western end of cliff.

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Up weakness and crack; step left through smooth section, back right to line and up. Scramble off and descend carefully to the left.

Start: 10m left of 'Against The Tide'.

Climbs the left of two cracks splitting the central prow. Approach via 'Against The Tide' continuing rightwards down the sloping terrace to a two bolt belay. Bring a full set of wires, a double set of cams to 0.75 Camalot, and long runners. Double ropes recommended (two ropes required for rap from chains).

Climbs the weakness through the roof and prow at the highest part of the wall, above and to the right of 'Against The Tide'.

Start: 'Access' the start by climbing 'Against The Tide' (16) and

moving right along the sloping ledge/chimney to belay at the

lowest point.

The righthand roof crack. Established onsight.

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Steeply up corner to overhang. Step right then back left to large sloping ledge. Move left along ledge to shallow right leading diagonal cracks and up.

Start: Start about 30m north of saddle at orange left facing corner. Cairned.

Up wall, passing the left hand end of the orange overhang at half height.

Start: Start about 50m left and around the corner from 'Lost in Deep Space' halfway up the large sloping terrace.

The Pinnacles are two north facing orange buttresses split by a large trench, approximately 200m further along the cliff (past the large treed descent gully). They are marked on the photo on page 6. Access is best via the base of the cliff, not along the cliffline past the red wall. Or keep walking left uphill along the base from Against the Tide for about 100m, and scramble down and across a gully to reach two 25m tall square-top pinnacles with more good rock.

A cheeky climb with pushy right-wing tendencies. Balancy, but well protected. At the first weakness. Up through first bulge. Hard moves up and step right. After second bulge follow grey groove just left of arete (where the climbs been pushing you to all along).

A really tasty excursion up a wall of buckets n’ bums. Climb the second weakness 4m left of The Bottom Inspectors. Follow the steep flakes up and right-wards to an exiting traverse, with a final big ‘heave-ho’ to pull over the top. A couple of manky slings on a bollard at the upper/east end of the pinnacle which need replacing or adding to by who ever is there next.

Excellent steep climbing on quality rock on left hand pinnacle. 6m left of the arete. Climb the line of least resistance, then traverse up and right with no protection (crux) and follow the obvious right leading diagonal line to the arete and the top. Scramble off the back of the wall.

At the back of this pinnacle there is an unfinished bolted

project (3 FHs).

Do not climb this route as it still needs more bolts.