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Nodes in The Magic Mountain

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Node
The Magic Mountain

This area looks stunning from the 'Victoria' Valley but it's a bit disappointing. Left of the steep gully that splits the crag is one of Gariwerd's loosest, most dangerous faces. This is unclimbed.

16 Arrival

The left-facing prominent corner.

21 Father Gibney's Gallant Rescue

Quite good. Pitch lengths are guesses.

Start: Start below cracks on the left wall of the prominent corner of "Arrival"

  1. 20m (21) Up the face a couple of metres left of the corner to a ledge.

  2. 20m (19) Up a bit, then out right under roof to a really nice crack on arete.

19 He Reviewed The Human Species As He Floated In Its Faeces

Start: Start at a distinct off-width corner about 20 metres left of "Arrival"

  1. 40m (19) Up corner, avoiding the use of off-width technique to tree.

  2. 10m (19) Up crack behind tree.

16 In The Restaurant

Start: Start about 25-30 metres left of "He Reviewed..." at a good line with a bulging crack start.

  1. 35m (16) Steeply up the line and on past the tree into the corner. After a superb hand-crack, avoid a dirty, closed corner by traversing left. Go up and belay on any of a series of ledges

  2. 30m (-) Move back right and climb the wall, tending right, going just past the left side of an overhang to belay in a large cave. Take care with the rock on this pitch.

  3. 10m (-) Walk ro the right-hand end of the cave and go up through more bulges.

There is a beautiful orange wall some distance to the left with a grey corner on its right side and

There is a beautiful orange wall some distance to the left with a grey corner on its right side and an attractive set of thin cracks. All routes stop on the long, narrow ledge at 35 metres with a 40 metre abseil from a tree at the left end of the ledge, down A Word Too Much.

14 At Tienappels

The grey corner marking the right-hand side of the wall. Beware of loose blocks.

25 Satana

The line up the face just left of the grey corner of "At Tienappels"

21 Mental Gymnastics

Great climbing. The right-hand line on the orange wall has a right-facing corner at 2/3 height.

  1. 10m (18) Short, steep wall with difficult protection to terrace. Up 2 metres to ledge.

  2. 25m (21) Up wall to base of corner then corner and crack to horizontal break. Now 4 metres wall (crux) to belay.

23 Consumption

Awkward wall left of 'Mental Gymnastics' to terrace. Left-facing corner then the left-most of the major lines on the orange wall.

16 Lothar

Wideish line marking left side of orange wall.

17 Felix The Cat

Up wall just left of wideish line.

Continue left past a cave with stinking goat carcassess to a steep gully. There is a route at the fo

Continue left past a cave with stinking goat carcassess to a steep gully. There is a route at the foot of the gully, on its right-hand side.

19 A Word Too Much

Sustained wall to base of left-facing corner. Up corner to loose ledge on right. Climb a thin crack to a wide crack and go up past a couple of blockages to abseil tree.

Start: Start on the right side of the gully left of the orange wall and stinking cave at the line left of a major, cruddy corner.

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