Routes as sport in Victoria Range

Shares first four bolts of No Feet, No Head, No Hands, then steps out left, bouldery moves up slab to 'plates' then slabby moves on slopers to lower off.

Black slab on left of main face. Bridge up to slab, fun climbing staying just left of and on arete

CLOSED PROJECT Starts on left arete, diagonal rising traverse finishing at Pirate Life lower off

STICK CLIP FIRST BOLT Start a few metres right of left arête of main wall, thin moves directly up past first bolt (crux) to jugs and second bolt on Rising Tide. Diagonally left to stance on arête then up past small alcove and slopey jugs to lower off

Start between Rougues etc and Six on the Stick, straight up line taking third bolt of Rising Tide and last bolt of Rougues etc...nice!!

Next in line of the Galleon three star trio! Another fantastic route on crimps, sidepulls and slopers...Enjoy!! Line left of Kingdom of Fear, then finishes up and right on jugs to same lower off for KoF.

Another Galleon classic is OPEN FOR BUSINESS!! Start half way along rock fin (couple of metres left of Splinter) straight up past first three bolts, then boulder out right (crux) then up and left to jug, then another cruxy move to last bolt then mega jugs! Enjoy

Gets the blood moving - Centre line starting off top of rock fin, through black streaked bulge to lower off.

Start in chasm just left of bolted crack on right side of crag. Bridge across from rock fin (careful of average rock at start), cruise up wall on great jugs to stance, drop the clutch and straight up wall on small holds to lower off

Crack and right arete. Start just right of Four on the Floor, up pocket crack to good stance on 'nose' of arete. Sail up arete on slopers and side pulls, step left at last bolt (crux), then back right to lower off NOTE (July 2016) - 2 x incorrectly placed / additional bolts on arete will be removed

Needs a 60m rope!!!!!

Start just left of SC. Amazing wall climb.

Up grey wall around corner from Highly Evolved.

Crazy jump to start or 26 if you batman to first jug. Awesome either way.

Fab warm up. Starts up crack system.

The streaked wall right of Highly Evolved. Start up grey slab. WARNING - Be aware of potential ledge fall potential, do not give soft catches

Great pocketed corner line. Accessed via fixed rope.

Left side of grey face. Bouldery at start. Drop a grade or two if you bridge up the tree.

Starts on right side of grey face. The tree is now gone. Batman off first bolt or traverse in from left (grade 15?)

Starts 3m left of Trouble Cut. Unlikely.

On Upper Tier. Orange wall left of grey seam. Has chain with krab on second bolt.

Grey seam on Upper Tier

Starts few meters right of Fratin Brothers off the block. Up via thin side pulls.

The bolted corner.

Thin face 3m right if Brighten the Corners.

Two pitches on left side of orange buttress. Pretty much the Pilot Error of the Gramps (i.e. novelty photo route).

Up on upper tier. Through water streak on beautiful orange face. Has chain on third bolt.

Starts up OOTS then girdles uncontrollably leftwards.

Starts as Two Birdies then moves left up lovely orange face.

Up crack to cool arete. The crux is cryptic.

Straight up the crack. Enjoy the great water polished rock.

Starts as per TB then goes right after rootlet across slab and up steep wall via a hard crux. May be easier than graded

Starts as per VT. Big traverse left. Place 1.2m sling on bolt no. 6

Start as per VT, after 4th bolt veer left past 4 more bolts.

Bolted Water streaks on right side of fixed lines. Shared start to other routes.

...of the production line. Starts as LP then busts left up prow

The far right. Starts on a slab.

Starts on far right hand end of the Upper Tier of Clean Cuts. Great flake line that faces Eureka.WARNING : Belayer and climber please pay close attention to nearby wall, as it gets very close at one point

Start off boulder at left end of wall. Up wall on great jugs to base of head wall where holds become significantly smaller (crux)! Up to lower off on very top of wall.

For another good warm up - go right at second last bolt to lower off above Revolver.

East-facing, orange-streaked wall that is obvious from walking track and Disparate Housewives area. The first clip looks a bit daunting but is quite easy and safe if the belayer is organised properly. Step across gap to short diagonal past 2 bolts. Up on thin holds then thin moves before moving right and up.

Starts at small hanging corner just down right of LP. Stick clip first bolt. Up corner (crux) to join LP at third bolt, step left then up keeping right of bolts to lower off

Same start as for Revolver. At third bolt (as for LP), rising traverse out right using bolts on Me and My Gun and Pump Action (use long draws) to lower off on right arete above 3 minute rule.

Another good variant at same grade is to continue up Me and My Gun from middle of traverse.

Line in middle of wall, right of Revolver. Stick clip first bolt. Start off rock step, Thin, technical start past first bolt (crux). Up right to undercling then straight up wall to central lower off.

Stick clip first bolt. Undercut start (as for Silencer and 3 minute Rule), up RH short corner for a few moves, then out left on small holds along horizontal break between 3rd and 4th bolt, hard move up to short right leaning flake (crux). Up wall trending left at top to join Me and My Gun for last bolt and lower off. Best to use long draws for third and fourth bolts.

Maybe 25? Undercut start as for Pump Action and 3 Minute Rule, up left leading shallow corner to undercling traverse (crux) and into Me and My Gun, up this to lower off. Use long draws on second and third bolts and first bolt of Me and My Gun (at end of traverse)

Good warm up. Undercut start (as for Pump Action and Silencer), up short RH corner to horizontal break, up wall on thin holds (crux) to jugs and lower off just left of arete

Pleasant face on the left near the top of the gully. Step left off boulder and up.

The left edge of the left wall of the chimney-gully. The bottom section needs equipping and will be a little contrived in middle where it is hard to avoid easy ground on left.

Start up 'Smoky and the Banditos' until 4th RB then go left to fixed hangers on arete.

U-bolts to the right of The left edge of the left wall of the chimney-gully.

Open Project - bring your steely fingers for the last 4 bolts of this direct finish

Pleasant first pitch but second pitch breaks down quickly.

Start: Start at the base of the gully immediately right of where the track meets the cliff.

1. 20m (12) Traverse diagonally left, following crack just above lip of overhang. Climb wall past right sid of next overhang and up to belay at end of big diagonal ramp.

2. 45m (15) Move right and make committing move through the bulge. Continue up, taking care with rock (fragile, loose blocks). Belay off tree on ridge at the top of "Disparate Housewives Wall". Either scramble, roped,across to rap anchor on "Disparate Housewives" or go to the top and walk east to the "Matter" gully.

A bit short on content, but a brilliant location for photos of other climbs. Don't weight the anchors until holding the jugs at the top. Scramble out the ramp left of Disparate Housewives to 2 belay bolts on ramp system.

Short, seamy wall starting at flake from ramp system.

Leftmost of the good pocketed routes. Easy pocketed start to left slanting weakness, then fingery crux up grey wall.

Fantastic route. It's amazing to find such a sustained, steep route at this grade. It's a toss-up whether it's 18 or 19. The main line on the pocketed wall. The wall, slightly right through bulge and continue up. In the upper section, climb just right of the bolts between clips. From last bolt to anchors, easiest is straight up from bolt and step back right to anchors, best is up steeper rock on right directly to anchor.

3m R of DH up the pocketed wall and onto the arete and follow this all the way to the anchors of DH

Start: Scramble up to orange ledge (bolt) Crank through pockets, clipping the bolt in the pocket. Finish up crack.

Great, varied climbing that keeps you going right to the end. The start stays wet for a long time, in fact it hasn't been dry yet. Grade is a toss-up, 20 or 21.

11 bolts (not 10 as per guidebook.)

Start on 'Hysteria Lane' and traverse across to 'Widow of Opportunity'

Great start on pockets leads to nice arete and exciting finish. A satisfying pitch. The hangers work loose with frequent ascents so taking a shifting spanner in to tighten them after an ascent is worthwhile.

Start from ledge 2m above ground level, right of Hysteria Lane.

Bridge up to first bolt then traverse left. At 3rd bolt, go up until the arete is gained and followed.

Now completely superseded.

Now finishes where climbs should. Start in the same place as 'Widow of Opportunity'. Follow the crack line straight up and continue up the wall when it fades. From the double rings head up and right past two more bolts to the anchors in the alcove.

Next line up right of 'Barefoot And Poignant' starting with some beautiful pockets. I think it is general consensus that this is not 24. If you want a 24 version of this climb you have to climb, as the FA, 'the convulted crux out left at mid height while ignoring the obvious line'...Finishes in the little alcove, but can also be climbed to the anchors of LIB for extra contrived mileage.

Right of F&B. Start at base of corner, far right end of wall. Up to bottom of shallow closed corner, move left past single digit pocket, then up shallow pocketed flake system (crux) to jug, leftwards rising traverse on amazing jugs to finish up headwall and lower off

Good start but overall just something to loosen up on.

Start at the little face at on the right side of the gully.

Face past 4 bolts. Easy ground then up left side of arete to anchors.

Magic pocket pulling sport route on immaculate rock. Would be amazing if longer. Starts 50m left of 'Gibber'. White pockets through bulge leads to spaced heucos on face. At third BR head right to BR then up juggy corner to rap chain. Keep an eye out for the bolts on the upper wall, they can be easy to miss!

At second BR traverse directly right on small pockets and little else. When your feet refuse to stay on, clip a BR then crank like crazy to gain monster pockets. Finish as for original line past last BR.

The direct start to 'Faceless' past several RBs. Very long intricate face climbing. Be wary of long runout in the middle. One of Neil's longest ever sieges.

Sustained thin wall climbing up a slightly overhung face. Same start as Picking Plums but head right along juggy break past RB then follow further five RB¹s up crimpy wall to DRB anchor. Fourth RB is hard to clip.

Diabolical slab start followed by very continuous steep red wall.

The gigantic roof just left of 'Little Boy Lost'.Looks like the prow of a battleship, as seen from the waterline.First pitch goes up to and second pitch underclings the upside-down roof arête. Pitches described separately. Black rounded arête immediately right of the chimney/gulch. You have to bridge up the gully to start, followed by awkward and off balance arete climbing.

Super exposed upside-down roof-arête.

Roof right of pitch 2 of 'A Space Odyssey'.

One piece of trad to start then 3 bolts. Bouldery on awesome rock.

Same start as Pterodactyl (trad) then head left and up past 4 bolts to same anchor.

Desperate laybacking. 4 bolt sport route with lower off in gully around left of Redline.

The next route in the gully. Difficult moves up and right to gain corner. Continue technically up corner to small overlap where you move on to arete. Head up this and left to anchors. 2 Fixed hangers and 3 rings.

CLOSED PROJECT - Adam Demmert - Next route left up the Gully. Rightward diagonal seam.

Down on the lower level again, this is the orange wall you see walking towards this area. Follow orange scoops up wall. Tricky start leads to sneaky moves left at 3rd bolt to gain next leadge/scoops. follow these to bust out on the thin face to finish.

Closed Project Please Stay off.

Steepo left leading cave route on far left side of crag. Sport all the way.

Link Krankandangle into Path of Yin via low bolt.

Start up Middle Path, where Middle Path joins Path of Yin continue traversing right into steepness. Do the big dyno and then traverse further right into Eye of the Tiger and finish as per it's anchors.

A shameless linkup but worthy none the less! Start up middle path and continue as per the flying duck. Do the crux dyno of the duck and then immediately head left into a rest before finishing at the path of yin anchors.

One of the best in Oz. The only bad thing about this climb is that it was cruelly stolen from HB by a UK darkhorse. This should be on everyone's tick list. They simply don't get much better.

Start: Start 5m down R of 'Krankandangle'.

Crikey it's good. Which is better Path Of Yin or Eye Of The Tiger? Truly superb rock architecture, with fair dinkum good moves. Was a lot harder but then some creative thinking enabled the roof passage to be climbed with out too much strength, which produced an enormous increase in it's popularity! Incredibly steep, at least 15m overhung.

Start: Start at the back of the cave beneath the huge "eye" in the roof.

Links eye of tiger start to path of Yin finish via a fun looking flake feature & a few new bolts

Fantastic climbing on an outrageous feature. Batman to 4th bolt.

Unfinished bolted line in the middle of the blankness, 4 bolts with a bail biner. Lee Cossey sent this in 2015 as Tail of the Tiger (28) with a batman start but the first 3 bolts are yet to go.

Lunacy endurance traverse. Your forearms will explode.

Starts as per PFOD then joins CL for a couple of bolts. Takes traverse line a few meters south of CL to same anchor

As for Cl but keep going straight up via very reachy moves.

Start: Start as for CL.

Start: The line of bolts a couple of metres R of 'Pocket Full of Dreams'.

A great line that was strangely one of the last routes added. Seems so obvious now.

Start: Start 5m L of 'Desert Rose'.

The original Vic Ranges hard route. Mega. Some think it might be 31...

Start: Start 5m R of DR at major scoopy weakness. Power endurance classic past 6 bolts to anchor

One of the hardest routes in 'Victoria'. A sustained full frontal assault on the highest part of the cave.

Start: Start just R of DF.

Tough rightwards heading line right of Flower Power. Slopy.

A bit of a glue job. The glued on hold has come off once again. Probably impossible atm january 2015

Start up 'Sullivan Street' then bust out left and up bulging wall above. #2 Camalot can be placed after last bolt to protect runout finish. Needs rebolting!