Routes in Victoria Range

Starts as first pitch of China Fingers. Blast directly up orange face and corner. Veer left on flakes to slight brown streak. Final boulder guards the anchor. Massive pitch.

May be a repeat of "A Soft Furry Thing". As you walk past the southern face of the 'Mountain Lion' there is a slab with a broken corner with two cracks.

As for blind man with a pistol until headwall. Follow crazy dihedral left to a classic power endurance crux.

Spectacular stuff. Takes a hanging rib which bisects two big red caves, then a sweeping blade arete above. 'The caves' feature the roof climb "Path of Garth".

Start: Starts: On big cliff down and right of main 'Muline Crag'. From the car, walk up track as far as the second rocky outcrop. Skirt right 50m around base of outcrop to cliff.

1. 20m (16) A ramp leads out the right side of a scoop. Continue up orange bulging wall to base of rib.

2. 20m (16) Rib, then arete. Walk off left.

Starts a few meters right of Poison Bait. Great athletic roof climbing.

Up the ramp at the right end of the black buttress to aledge. Up the system of thin cracks in the grey wall, step right to the black diagonal crack then up.

Start: From the right end, walk left through a small col and 20 metres left of this is a black buttress.

Argus May 95

Overlap, crack at right end of next main wall.

1. 30m (17) The crack. Move right below the roof to join "Scabs On Heat".

2. 35m (5) As for "Scabs On Heat"

Starts 5m right of Horizon. Follow the hangers them move diagonally left. No anchor as yet.

Argus May 95

A line of rings. Might be Chris Coppard's project?

Start: Start 10 metres right of "Scabs On Heat", near arete.

1. 35m (16) Undercut start, then take left-leading ramp/crack to top of block.

2. 35m (5) as for "Scabs On Heat"

Start just left of gum. Up and left to buckets. Step right through overlap and straight up seam.

The righthand roof crack. Established onsight.

Line of fixed hangers that comes out of Unknown 1.

A bucket haul with a fun conclusion.

Climb the overhanging descent gully wall and traverse left at the obvious break. Finish as for Big Nose N Barge Arse Go Bouldering.

Climbs the left of two cracks splitting the central prow. Approach via 'Against The Tide' continuing rightwards down the sloping terrace to a two bolt belay. Bring a full set of wires, a double set of cams to 0.75 Camalot, and long runners. Double ropes recommended (two ropes required for rap from chains).

Promises, promises. Starts below the central overhangs and orange rock. Up behind the dead tree (?still exists) then through the centre of the roof. Continue tranding rightwards up the centre of the face above.

Probably needs some bolts. Has only been top-roped. Wall right of Free To Good Home, keeping close to right arete.

Takes the centre of the face on block overlooking head of Green 'Gully'.

Pitch 2 - 3 rests

Take the right-hand crack until it finishes. Straight up.

Start as for Inside The Avenue, 3 metres left of Summer Breeze Up the wall on left of the corner, then groove past the final wall on left.

Straightens out "Varicose Vines"

From the first ledge, take crack up wall.

Start just left of the blank arete. Up through an overhang then up a vague groove to finish up centre of upper wall. There is loose rock at the top.

Harder than it looks. Crack 2 metres left of "No Squids On Stirling!".

On the left side of the steep grey wall is a dirty groove with a thin crack just left of its middle third.

Start right of the dirty groove and climb up (harder than it looks) to the base of the thin crack below the small roof. Step up left and then back right under the big roof. Steeply up the right edge of the face.

Start as for Diamonds in the Forest.

The arete, straight up.

Vertical seam into roof.

Great but too short. Around in the gully the pinnacle wall sports nice orange rock. take the crooked line in the middle, finishing on jugs.

Start as for Back Alley, 3 metres left of Summer Breeze. Up to left-facing corner then the face above this.

Climb the flake and wall a few metres right of the chimney to cracks. Up to and over overlap.

The classic of the crag, taking the diagonal line across the west face on the block to the right of the chasm.

Up the cracks on the left arete then traverse right to the central diagonal line. Up this.

Start 3 metres left of seepage line.

Up wall passing small right-facing corner at about 10 metres and straight up through bulge to top.

There is a pocketed wall about 20 metres to the right of Cancer Ward. To get there, head down around the toe of the huge triangular-shaped block immediately right of Cancer Ward and then sidle back along the next wall for about 25 metres. The wall is about 15 metres tall, heavily pocketed and has a large roof at the right-hand end.

Start at the left end of a ledge about 5 metres to the left of the left end of the roof.

Up on pockets veering slightly left to pick up the small flake at about 2/3 height.

At the top of Green 'Gully' is a corner with a bouldery start.

Traverse right across the ledge immediately above the roof. Up to and around right of the small roof on the arete and directly up the wall just right of the arete. Be careful of rope drag.

Start: Start as for "Reclaiming The Night".

Up wall just left of wideish line.

Bouldery prow following seam, pockets and interesting slots. Same start as afterlife.

Left of "Return To Gariwerd" is a grey slab criss-crossed by thin cracks.

A beautiful gobsmacking line. The manky old carrots at the start have now been placed with rings. A long stick-clip is required as the crux is the start.

Start: Start 3m R of the base of the rock step separating the upper and lower tiers of the crag.

Through overlap, up line and bulge.

Start: Start 3 metres right of "Tattle Tales"

Rum, buggery and the lash; traditional Australian pastimes.

The superb sustained left-hand line on STD wall starts as a wide crack and rapidly improves.

Start in the same place as Fiery God.

Trend left up the slabs to below the orange streaks in the overlaps. Through the overlaps via the orange streaks and continue up over another bulge to finishing finger cracks.

A bit sparse on gear in sections Start at a short groove in the right-hand face, 5 metres right of the right-hand flake. Climb the groove for 3 metres to a ledge. Step left and up the seam for 4 metres to a break. Follow break left for 4 metres to thin crack and up this, 1 metre right of flake line.

Start 80 metres left of A Climb For St Cecilia's Day.

1. 40m. (14) Follow the crack splitting the centre of the buttress to the obvious line of overlaps. Pull left through the overhang and then up the right edge of the buttress to a ledge.

2. 20m. Climb up 5 metres to the main roof then chicken off left and up.

"Superb climbing on brilliant rock", Campbell Mercer.Start 4 metres left of right arete. Up crack, step right and up.

Obvious orange corner starting off a ledge, just a few metres right of "Hot Cross".

Up technical corner to middle of roof and traverse easily left to stance. Scramble off left to rap tree on Hot Cross. There was originally a second pitch up corner and bulge but it adds little value.

Cracks at left end of major south-facing black wall. Up left crack past overlap, step right to next major line and up.

Another wanderer.

Start up the wide crack just right of Dangerous Driving or up the left arete of the slab just right again.

After the start, continue up the arete (as for Dangerous Driving to the overhang. Traverse left across the steep wall to a bulging crack and follow this.

Cute. Start right of TMCO, 2m left Legend Of 'The Fall'. Climb small right facing corner to overlap, step left then up to tree. Rap off tree.

Grade is unknown

The next west-facing wall behind the Grey Matter slab has a stepped orange flake system.

Up the stepped orange corner-line until 3 metres below the roof. Left across the traverse line and up.

Easy angled black hand crack corner 50m left of 'Gibber'. Second pitch climbs juggy face above. Not recommended.

Another worthless addition. Starts about 3m right of 'Wimbleton' at smooth part of grey wall. Up a few moves then right 2m. Follow easing seam, trending slightly left, to break overhang just right of the small red cave on 'Wimbleton'.

Arete right of Kick in the nuts, up crack to slopy topout

This one goes all the way. Climb the middle of the wall, pretty much following the black streak.

Up the diagonal crack for 8 metres, step left to follow another diagonal crack to the top.

Start: Start 3 metres left of "Liars, Damned Liars and Politicians".

(For the Boys) Climb the centre of the bulging grey wall right of the off-width right of Leveret.

The seam on the left.

Easy slab leads to fun steep climbing leads to sustained crack.

Follows stellar arete which starts down and left of redline. 2 bolts and trad on both pitches.

Dual Fuel? Jule Fuel? Who knows how it's meant to be spelt. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start as for Nomads / Red Vinyl

Start as for Red Vinyl then link into Breathing Gasoline after about 9m. This eliminates the rest on Breathing Gasoline, making this route rather more sustained! For the record, on 26/4/09, not really knowing what went where, Mike Patz sent a similar link-up at the same sort of grade, this time starting up the first few bolts of Nomads then finishing up Breathing Gasoline.

Excellent, but serious

It is thought that this route takes the big easy line up the lower tier and crosses the upper terrace to the yellow corner, probably neasr "Humboldt". Looks worthless.

In the middle of the cliff right of "The Go-Between" an easy-angled grey corner is the only break in the initial overhangs. Above is an impressive yellow corner.

1. 45m (14) A tricky start then doddle up just right of the corner to a tree belay.

2. 25m (-) Up easily to terrace below the yellow corner.

3. 45m (14) Fight up the vines into the chimney 9just left of "Humboldt" and bridge up this to a ledge.

4. 15m (-) Easily up jugs on left arete.

Start directly below the 'bowl'. 1) 45m Climb up into the foot of the 'bowl' then avoid major difficulty and lack of protection by skirting up and left around the 'bowl'. 2) 20m Up easily.

Follow Lynx Effect for 8m to where it traverses left. Arrange gear and launch straight up on crimps. Watch your back on the wall behind if you fall.

Continue directly up grey wall.

Start: Start as for Lynx Effect.

Exciting and a bit loose up the crack on the right-hand side of the crag just right and uphill from Slaughterhouse 5.

Climb a ramp from the left to gain the right-hand crack. Follow the crack to a gully then step back left and heave up the headwall.

Bouldery start! The left-leading diagonal right of Overwork Blues. The diagonal then the slab just right of the gutter. Step left at the roof and up.

Pleasant wall climbing based on a series of flakes and cracks on the left side of the right wall of The GA Or FM Corner. Start a few metres right of The GA Or FM Corner. Boulder up to the first flake and a good pocket/jug which takes a #2.0 cam. Follow flakes and cracks to left end of overlap. Up to flake, then shallow left-facing corner.

The right end of the north face. Up to the righthand crack and up it.

Down left around the corner from Scared Stiff is a huge cave. Start at the left end.

1. 15m Step off boulder, through the overhang to left-leading ramp. 2) 20m (18) Up nice corner until it ends then right up steep headwall.

Delightful left facing finger crack that ends prematurely on slab, then veer left to finish up vegetated rubbish onto ledge.

Climb the left nose of the narrow buttress immediately ledt of "Disappointment".

Start at the foot of the arete, 8 metres left of Sexual Blur. Hand traverse right along the break until it runs out. Up past small undercut block, left, then finish up Sexual Blur.

Worthless leftover. Down on the main face, at the left side is a black wall just left of an undercut section.

Take the groove on the left side of the black wall, heading slightly left to stay out of the gully continuation.

Up subtle wall, starting from small platform immediately right of orange section.

The second thinner crack. Up the short wall then pull steeply into the base of the crack. When the crack expires traverse right and finish as for 'Peep Show'.

There is (or was?) a slender gum growing in front of the cliff. Climb the front of the obvious rib between two chasms.

Prominent right-veering crack about 50 metres downhill and right of the other climbs.

Only a few good moves, but these are very good.

Start: Start about 30 metres left of "No Holds Barred"

Quite good.

Start: In the chimney left of the pinnacle a short corner leads to a roof.

Corner to roof and traverse left below roof to crack. Up crack and finish up the right wall.

Backs off a little on arete, but keeps you working till the end.

Start 8m right of Curiosity Killed The Black Feral Cat on the black streak.

Up to 2nd FH taking heed of the flexible block on the left. Head left then back right above 2nd FH to gain a rest in the grey corner. Swing around right of the arête to FH and up to the long blunt grey arête above. Climbing is often just left of the arête with adequate gear on the arête proper.

Start as for 'Blabber Mouth' but move across the opening of the cave. Pull through overlap to finish.

Up middle seam right of "Some Like It Hot". Follow grassy, right-leading crack, then up.

Start on arete 8 metres right of Beestings On A Boofhead Climb wall to large ledge and continue up headwall.

Climbs the wall to the right of the huge cave. Great rock and pro. To access, traverse carefully across the slabby rock at the right hand end of the cave (easy but exposed) to the base of the wall and double bolt belay. Climb straight up to the ledge (where the Misty Wall routes start) then straight up wall above to double bolt anchors.

Unusual climbing up the centre of the wall left of "Blackberry Nip".

Probably the best of the easy climbs here but, again, not well-protected.

Start: Start 45 metres left of the saddle, 15 metres left of the dirty corner.

Weaves around to get up this pleasant wall. Starts 20m left of Wrapped In Pain, just left of scungy looking chimney slot thing. Heave over initial bulge, scuttle left then up mossy rounded face to gain horizontal. Traverse left a few metres then up right trending corner flake. When this runs out climb right (only obvious holds!) and up juggy face to finish. Full rack required + additional slings.

Not sure whether this should be under 'Mt Pox' or 'Slander Gully'.

Start: Follow track to knobbly, steep wall 100 metres right and upstream from Gastronomique Wall.

From middle right of wall follow a series of cracks vaguely left to headwall.