Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Popolarità | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Eureka Area Spanish Galleon | |||||
21 | ★ Legend of Pat Brown
Shares first four bolts of No Feet, No Head, No Hands, then steps out left, bouldery moves up slab to 'plates' then slabby moves on slopers to lower off. FA: Steve Holloway, steven wilson, Mike Rockell, Amanda Holloway & Sam Gribbles | 15m, 8 | |||
20 | ★ No Feet, No Head, No Hands
Black slab on left of main face. Bridge up to slab, fun climbing staying just left of and on arete Tracciata: Steve Holloway FA: Steve Holloway, Brett Williams, steven wilson & Wally Funk, 9 Lug 2016 | 12m, 6 | |||
★★★ Rising Tide
CLOSED PROJECT Starts on left arete, diagonal rising traverse finishing at Pirate Life lower off Tracciata: steven wilson | |||||
22 | ★ Rogues and Rip Off Merchants
STICK CLIP FIRST BOLT Start a few metres right of left arête of main wall, thin moves directly up past first bolt (crux) to jugs and second bolt on Rising Tide. Diagonally left to stance on arête then up past small alcove and slopey jugs to lower off FA: Steve Holloway, anthony pattison & steven wilson, 17 Dic 2016 | 17m, 7 | |||
24 | ★★ Persigue al Dragon
Start between Rougues etc and Six on the Stick, straight up line taking third bolt of Rising Tide and last bolt of Rougues etc...nice!! FA: Steve Holloway, 14 Apr 2017 | 18m, 6 | |||
26 | ★★ Six on the Stick
Next in line of the Galleon three star trio! Another fantastic route on crimps, sidepulls and slopers...Enjoy!! Line left of Kingdom of Fear, then finishes up and right on jugs to same lower off for KoF. FA: steven wilson, Steve Holloway & Chuck Picola, 13 Ago 2016 | 18m, 6 | |||
25 | ★★ Kingdom of Fear
Another Galleon classic is OPEN FOR BUSINESS!! Start half way along rock fin (couple of metres left of Splinter) straight up past first three bolts, then boulder out right (crux) then up and left to jug, then another cruxy move to last bolt then mega jugs! Enjoy Tracciata: Steve Holloway FA: Steve Holloway & Mark Rewi, 6 Ago 2016 | 17m, 8 | |||
21 | ★★ Splinter
Gets the blood moving - Centre line starting off top of rock fin, through black streaked bulge to lower off. FA: Steve Holloway, A. Holloway & Paul Revere, Apr 2015 | 17m, 7 | |||
24 | ★★★ Four on the Floor
Start in chasm just left of bolted crack on right side of crag. Bridge across from rock fin (careful of average rock at start), cruise up wall on great jugs to stance, drop the clutch and straight up wall on small holds to lower off FA: Steve Holloway, Amanda Holloway, Brett Williams & Jeremy Greville, 5 Lug 2015 | 24m, 11 | |||
23 | ★ Pirate Life
Crack and right arete. Start just right of Four on the Floor, up pocket crack to good stance on 'nose' of arete. Sail up arete on slopers and side pulls, step left at last bolt (crux), then back right to lower off NOTE (July 2016) - 2 x incorrectly placed / additional bolts on arete will be removed Tracciata: Steve Holloway FA: Steve Holloway & K.J. Whitt, 27 Mar 2016 | 26m, 9 | |||
Eureka Area Hidden Buttress | |||||
11 | ★★ Book of leaves
A fantastic outing up a good line with good gear and pretty good quality rock (for a new route!). Starts on the lower side of the buttress, on the RHS at a steep crack. Up this and into the corner where you will be rewarded with lots of fun, interesting, sustained bridging for the grade with good gear. Pitch at the ledge (about 25m) or continue on to the top. Located at GPS points S37 11.365 E142 16.268 @ 510m above sea level. FA: Josef Goding & Ross Richards (Alts), 2014 | 40m, 2 | |||
Eureka Area Eureka Wall | |||||
16 PG | Jimmy John's Direct
Great adventure climbing. Climbs the big grey wall (Jimmy John's Wall) across the Eureka gully from Clean Cut Walls and directly below Eureka. From the Eureka gully, step right and up across a short ramp (5 meters), then straight up for 50 meters across low angled, highly feature and highly fun rock! Climb through the middle of the upper headwall (10 meters) via a short left facing corner and then up and right through the steep face to the top of the wall. The climb can be done in one 70 meter pitch, but it may be preferable to belay in the middle of the low angled wall as the upper headwall is steap and gear can be difficult to place. Descend by walking straight back to the Eureka Wall, which will place you at the bottom of Veggie Maths. FFA: Phil Gruber & Jimmy Gruber, 21 Set 2014 | 70m | |||
11 | ★ Going In Blind
1: starting 15 metres left of Nose Hairs climb direct up slab/ramp to left side of roof at half height (40m) 2: Traverse out left and up over bulge easily and up and right joining into Nose Hairs for summit. FA: Jimmy & Louis Godsell, 19 Apr 2015 | 90m, 2 | |||
10 | Nose Hairs
Start in an alcove behind a tree at the very lower left corner of Jimmy John's. Climb up and right toward the arete, belaying in the low angle rock. Continue toward the arete and over a small roof, into the nose hairs, belaying on the arete after passing the steep section above the roof. Continue up the arete to the top of Jimmy John's. FA: Jimmy, lily & phil Gruber | 100m | |||
17 | Heisenburg's Uncertainty Principle
The position and momentum of this route can not be simultaneously determined. Not in the same class as the rest of the crag. The next crack left of Newton's Law, 3 metres left of Maxwell's Demon, move left at ledge and continue straight up. FA: James & Melanie McIntosh, 1992 | 50m | |||
20 | ★ Maxwell's Demon
A thought experiment intended to show that the 2nd Law of Thermodynamics has only a statistical certainty. Start 4m L of Newton's Law. Wall just R of easy crack to ledge, trend R up grooves. FA: James & Melanie McIntosh with a rest or 2., 1992 | 20m | |||
24 | ★★ Newton's Law
Noddy's physics need a brush up...there are three Newton's laws, not one! Start under the nice thin crack on the L side of the wall. A great thin crack to the walk-off ledge. FA: Keith Lockwood & Steve Monks, 1991 | 30m | |||
23 | ★★ Diminishing Returns (Top Half)
Start as for Darwin's Theory for 10m then blast straight up orange wall past very spaced bolts and finish up grey headwall. FA: Kent Paterson, 2012 | 30m, 5 | |||
20 | ★★ Darwin's theory into Diminishing returns
Link up - Climb Darwins Theory to the top of the first pitch (obvious big break) the head up Diminishing returns for the last couple of bolts to anchor | 20m | |||
18 | ★★★ Darwin's Theory (1st 2 pitches)
Survival of the fittest. Described without the third pitch so that it gets noticed as a fantastic 2 pitch 18. Start: Start as for Newton's Law.
FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1991 | 55m, 2 | |||
23 | Darwin's Theory pitch 3
Natural selection in action: nobody does this. Start: Start at the rap anchor above Pythagoras' Theorem. FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1991 | 10m | |||
24 | ★ Foucault's Pendulum
A great pitch that goes all on natural gear. Follow the first pitch of Darwin's Theory to the second thread in the huecos (just below the piton). From the big thread, traverse out right across the weakness that is visible leading all the way across into Archimedes' Principle, finishing as for that route. FA: Ross Taylor & Adam Demmert, 2009 | 45m | |||
27 | ★★ Diminishing Returns
Needs a 60m rope!!!!! | 30m | |||
22 | ★ Archimedes Principle P1
| 20m | |||
26 | ★★★ Archimedes' Principle
"Any object, wholly or partially immersed in a fluid, is buoyed up by a force equal to the weight of the fluid displaced by the object." Routes like this are why you travel for hours/days to get to the 'Grampians'. First 2 pitches are often worked in 1 pitch from the ground. Start: Start under a low bolt at the base of the most impressive part of the wall.
FA: Keith Lockwood (p1), Steve Monks (p2 & 3), 1991 | 60m, 3, 2 | |||
27 | ★★ String Theory
Start: Start as for AP
Adam Demmert and John Schmit climbed pitch 1 in 2009. The Adam and Malcolm did the second in 2014 FFA: adam demmert, jono schmidt & Malcolm Matherson, 17 Nov 2014 | 80m, 2, 8 | |||
20 | ★ Pythagoras' Theorem P1
| 10m | |||
26 | ★★★ Pythagoras' Theorem
a2 + b2 = c2. Prepare your groin for some hypotenuse action. The other ultra-classic line here. It's supposed to finish via the third pitch of "Darwin's Theory" but this is often ignored. Start: Start under the central corner.
FA: Keith Lockwood (1) & Steve Monks (2-3), 1991 | 50m, 2, 3 | |||
26 | ★★ Ockham's Razor
"The simplest explanation or strategy tends to be the best one" This is a direct of the arête of Pythagoras' Theorem and was climbed as one long pitch. Start as for PT first pitch, at ledge clip first bolt and climb face between arête and corner. When level with first bolt move on to arête proper and follow this all the way to the top alcove. There is a tricky crux just before you join PT on the arête. 5 carrot bolts and trad. FFA: adam demmert, 2009 | 40m, 5 | |||
30 | ★★★ General Relativity
Starts as per PT moving right at undercling flake. Moves into PD for 10m then weaves up incredible thin face. FA: 2014 | 48m | |||
29 | ★★★ Pavlov's Dog
Start just left of SC. Amazing wall climb. Tracciata: kp, 2014 | 14 | |||
28 | ★ Cats & Dogs
Straightens out SC. Starts up SC, finishes up headwall of KP project. FA: clean cut phil | 10 | |||
25 | ★★ Schrodinger's Cat
Kitty is simultaneously alive and dead ... until you look. Start 15m R of 'Pythagoras Theorem'. Short steep corner crack then L up ramp past bolt. Back R through overlap to 3 more bolts up the wall above. FA: Steve Monks & Martin Scheel, 1991 | 45m, 4 | |||
25 | ★★★ Vege Maths
Amazing line.Finishes at SC anchors. FA: Toby Pola & Kent Paterson | 30m, 8 | |||
Eureka Area Eureka Towers | |||||
20 | ★★ Journey To Gary's World
5 metres R of 'Return to Gariwerd'. Start off small rock, tricky start on thin seams and opposing side pulls, easing upwards to great rounded holds. Belay off chicken heads. FA: James Wynne, 10 Giu 2016 | 15m | |||
22 | ★★★ Return to Gariwerd
Lovely climbing with excellent protection. Begin on the right edge of the blank orange shield. Up thin broken crack stepping left to flake then straight up the grey streak. The original route stopped here and descent was by scrambling off right with a possible rappel. However, a fantastic new finish was added in 2003 by Josh Janes: Instead of stopping/belaying, hand traverse straight left under the roof for 15 meters. The difficulty increases as the wall below becomes steeper and handholds become more spaced. Eventually gain a good stance at the end of the roof and belay from a bolted anchor (added in 2017). Rap from here with a single 70m rope (a single 60m rope might reach - watch your ends). FA: Louise Shepherd & Simon Mentz | 35m | |||
12 | Hunter Gatherer
A steep jug haul up the right-hand tower. FA: Kieth Lockwood & Enga Lokey, 1991 | 50m | |||
20 R | Jardwadjaliland
Left of "Return To Gariwerd" is a grey slab criss-crossed by thin cracks. FA: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood & Enga Lokey, 1991 | 35m | |||
25 | ★ Tchingal the Emu
Start: Start down left of "Jardwadjali Land".
FA: Steve Monks & Damien Carol, 1991 | 50m, 2 | |||
Eureka Area Clean Cut Walls | |||||
8 | ★ Son Of Clean Cut
Up grey wall around corner from Highly Evolved. FA: Jimmy Gruber, 2014 | 26m, 7 | |||
27 | ★★★ Highly Evolved
Crazy jump to start or 26 if you batman to first jug. Awesome either way. FA: Kent Paterson & Andrew Anderson, 2014 | 30m, 11 | |||
18 | ★★ Stray Sheep
Fab warm up. Starts up crack system. FA: Kent Paterson & adam demmert, 2014 | 30m, 13 | |||
23 | ★★ Sea Within A Sea
The streaked wall right of Highly Evolved. Start up grey slab. WARNING - Be aware of potential ledge fall potential, do not give soft catches FA: Kent Paterson & Andrew Anderson | 30m, 11 | |||
16 | ★★ Sleep No More
Great pocketed corner line. Accessed via fixed rope. FA: Emi K | 20m | |||
16 | ★ Chinese Bombs
Left side of grey face. Bouldery at start. Drop a grade or two if you bridge up the tree. FA: Kent Paterson, 2015 | 10m, 4 | |||
14 | ★ Plat Du Jour
Starts on right side of grey face. The tree is now gone. Batman off first bolt or traverse in from left (grade 15?) FA: Emi K | 15m | |||
22 | ★★ Think Twice
Climbs much better than it looks, a great overlooked route for those who's brain starts to fade after clipping too many bolts. Starts a few m right of Plat Du Jour at bouldery overhang. Straight up this and wall (small wires) to arete and hollow flake. Make a move R, and up short corner to amazing diagonal line (wires / small-med cams). Along this to finish at the anchor of Phil's project. FA: Goshen Watts & Jimmy, 16 Mag 2015 | 20m | |||
16 | ★ Thank God for the French
Start at first bolt of closed project, then follow undercling traverse to arête then up and left in crack to lower off of Plat Du Jour FA: Jimmy & Andreas Aachen, 16 Mar 2015 | 20m, 1 | |||
★★ Project - CLOSED (Phil Neville)
Starts 3m left of Trouble Cut. Unlikely. Tracciata: Kent Paterson | |||||
23 | ★★ Trouble Cut
On Upper Tier. Orange wall left of grey seam. Has chain with krab on second bolt. FA: Kent Paterson, 2014 | 14m, 7 | |||
24 | ★★ Fratin Brothers
Grey seam on Upper Tier FA: Kent Paterson, 2014 | 15m, 9 | |||
25 | ★ Cut Throat
Starts few meters right of Fratin Brothers off the block. Up via thin side pulls. FFA: adam demmert, 7 Set 2014 | 12m, 7 | |||
16 | ★ Brighten the Corners
The bolted corner. FA: Kent Paterson, 2015 | 10m, 5 | |||
Open Project
Thin face 3m right if Brighten the Corners. | |||||
25 | ★ The Man Who Sold The World
Two pitches on left side of orange buttress. Pretty much the Pilot Error of the Gramps (i.e. novelty photo route). FA: Kent Paterson, 2014 | 26m, 2 | |||
28 | ★★★ Shallow Water
Up on upper tier. Through water streak on beautiful orange face. Has chain on third bolt. Tracciata: Kent Paterson, 2014 | 25m, 10 | |||
Project - Open
Starts up OOTS then girdles uncontrollably leftwards. Tracciata: Kent Paterson, 2014 | |||||
25 | ★★ Observations Of The Scene
Starts as Two Birdies then moves left up lovely orange face. FA: Kent Paterson | 25m | |||
23 | ★ Two Birdies
Up crack to cool arete. The crux is cryptic. FA: Kent Paterson & adam demmert, 2014 | 20m, 10 | |||
22 | ★ Cuttting The Grass
Straight up the crack. Enjoy the great water polished rock. FA: Kent Paterson & Andrew Anderson, 2014 | 26m, 11 | |||
25 | ★★ The CCC (Clean Cut Clan)
Starts as per TB then goes right after rootlet across slab and up steep wall via a hard crux. May be easier than graded FFA: adam demmert & Mike Tomkins, 7 Set 2014 | 25m, 13 | |||
22 | ★★ Upper Cut
Starts as per VT. Big traverse left. Place 1.2m sling on bolt no. 6 FA: Kent Paterson, 2014 | 20m, 12 | |||
20 | ★ New Normal
Start as per VT, after 4th bolt veer left past 4 more bolts. FA: Kent Paterson | 15m, 10 | |||
18 | ★ Villiers Terrace
Bolted Water streaks on right side of fixed lines. Shared start to other routes. FA: Kent Paterson, 2014 | 15m | |||
23 | ★ Deadly Rhythm
...of the production line. Starts as LP then busts left up prow FA: Kent Paterson, 2014 | 15m, 10 | |||
21 | ★ Liberal Party
The far right. Starts on a slab. FA: Kent Paterson, 2014 | 14m, 8 | |||
23 | ★★ Gerbil's Route
Starts on far right hand end of the Upper Tier of Clean Cuts. Great flake line that faces Eureka.WARNING : Belayer and climber please pay close attention to nearby wall, as it gets very close at one point FA: Kent Paterson & adam demmert, 2014 | 20m, 12 | |||
Eureka Area Alkali Tide Wall | |||||
16 | The Alkali Tide
Worth doing for the second pitch experience (not!). Start: Start under overhang at right end of wall.
FA: Wade Stevens & Tim Day, 1996 | 50m, 2 | |||
Eureka Area The Red Sail | |||||
26 | ★★★ Bristol Fashion
The left arete of the buttress.
FA: Steve Monks & Damien Carol, 1991 | 45m, 2, 6 | |||
23 | ★★★ Sailing Away
The spectacular right arete. FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1991 | 45m, 3 | |||
Eureka Area Worthless Wall | |||||
12 | Roaming Hands
Only worthwhile crack and is on left side of a steep, clean wall. Scramble up to a terrace to start. Climb crack and abseil from tree. FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1980 | 35m | |||
Eureka Area Weirs Creek West Side | |||||
22 | Reload.......Now!
Start off boulder at left end of wall. Up wall on great jugs to base of head wall where holds become significantly smaller (crux)! Up to lower off on very top of wall. FA: Steve Holloway & Matt Johnston, 9 Nov 2014 | 18m, 8 | |||
18 | ★ Reload-Revolver
For another good warm up - go right at second last bolt to lower off above Revolver. | 18m, 8 | |||
20 | ★ Lapsed Pacifist
East-facing, orange-streaked wall that is obvious from walking track and Disparate Housewives area. The first clip looks a bit daunting but is quite easy and safe if the belayer is organised properly. Step across gap to short diagonal past 2 bolts. Up on thin holds then thin moves before moving right and up. FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman & Norm Booth, 2012 | 15m, 7 | |||
21 | ★ Revolver
Starts at small hanging corner just down right of LP. Stick clip first bolt. Up corner (crux) to join LP at third bolt, step left then up keeping right of bolts to lower off FA: Steve Holloway, Matt Johnston & Z D Rocha, 2014 | 20m, 8 | |||
21 | ★★ Right Caliber
Same start as for Revolver. At third bolt (as for LP), rising traverse out right using bolts on Me and My Gun and Pump Action (use long draws) to lower off on right arete above 3 minute rule. Another good variant at same grade is to continue up Me and My Gun from middle of traverse. FA: Steve Holloway & Anthony Pattison | 18m, 7 | |||
22 | ★★ Me and My Gun
Line in middle of wall, right of Revolver. Stick clip first bolt. Start off rock step, Thin, technical start past first bolt (crux). Up right to undercling then straight up wall to central lower off. FA: Steve Holloway & Amanda Holloway, 2014 | 20m, 8 | |||
23 | ★★ Pump Action
Stick clip first bolt. Undercut start (as for Silencer and 3 minute Rule), up RH short corner for a few moves, then out left on small holds along horizontal break between 3rd and 4th bolt, hard move up to short right leaning flake (crux). Up wall trending left at top to join Me and My Gun for last bolt and lower off. Best to use long draws for third and fourth bolts. FA: Steve Holloway, Matt Johnston, Z D Rocha & Anthony Pattison, 13 Set 2014 | 20m, 9 | |||
24 | ★★ Silencer
Maybe 25? Undercut start as for Pump Action and 3 Minute Rule, up left leading shallow corner to undercling traverse (crux) and into Me and My Gun, up this to lower off. Use long draws on second and third bolts and first bolt of Me and My Gun (at end of traverse) FA: Stephen Holloway & Rowan Blakers, 18 Gen 2015 | 25m, 12 | |||
19 | ★ 3 minute rule
Good warm up. Undercut start (as for Pump Action and Silencer), up short RH corner to horizontal break, up wall on thin holds (crux) to jugs and lower off just left of arete FA: Steve Holloway & Amanda Holloway, 21 Set 2014 | 15m, 8 | |||
Eureka Area Weirs Creek | |||||
17 | ★ Matter
Pleasant face on the left near the top of the gully. Step left off boulder and up. FA: Kieran Loughran, 2010 | 10m, 5 | |||
Open Project
The left edge of the left wall of the chimney-gully. The bottom section needs equipping and will be a little contrived in middle where it is hard to avoid easy ground on left. | 15m | ||||
23 | ★★ Smoky and the Banditos LHV
Start up 'Smoky and the Banditos' until 4th RB then go left to fixed hangers on arete. | 20m, 9 | |||
25 | ★★ Smoky and the Banditos
U-bolts to the right of The left edge of the left wall of the chimney-gully. FFA: adam demmert & @cathdv, 2012 | 20m | |||
★★ Smoky and the Banditos Direct finish
Open Project - bring your steely fingers for the last 4 bolts of this direct finish FA: Adam Demmert, 2012 | |||||
Special Circumstances (Open Project)
Right of the chimney gully is a left-right rising traverse below an overhang. Currently has a couple of old cams in it. Probably needs more bolts. | 15m | ||||
16 | ★ Grey Area
Nice face-climbing which is better than it looks. Lots of wires and some small cams. Face starting 3 metres left of the corner of Contact to anchor of Special Circumstances at right end of roof system. FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 2011 | 12m | |||
16 | ★ Contact
Short, attractive corner on right side of terrace on the right side of the gully. Looks good but is a bit brittle. The short corner to large sloping ledge and up slightly left to anchor for Grey Area. FA: Norm Booth & Kieran Loughran, 2010 | 12m | |||
9 | ★ Return Of The Native
Start a little left of where the track reaches the cliff just before it breaks up into gullies, at the left edge of an easy face below the left edge of orange overhangs at 15 metres. Up the face with a bulge at 7 metres to the line immediately left of the overhangs and up to ledge at 30 metres. Continue up the steeper corner to a large sloping ledge. Either go left to the rap anchor for "Contact" or continue and on up the face to terrace. 20 metre abseil to terrace to east (will have to leave a sling) and descend gully. FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 2010 | 50m | |||
15 | ★ Sleeper Service
Pleasant first pitch but second pitch breaks down quickly. Start: Start at the base of the gully immediately right of where the track meets the cliff.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Ray Lassman (alt), 2010 | 60m, 2 | |||
20 | Dumber Bay
A bit short on content, but a brilliant location for photos of other climbs. Don't weight the anchors until holding the jugs at the top. Scramble out the ramp left of Disparate Housewives to 2 belay bolts on ramp system. Short, seamy wall starting at flake from ramp system. FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 2011 | 8m, 3 | |||
24 | ★ Climber Wants a Wife
Leftmost of the good pocketed routes. Easy pocketed start to left slanting weakness, then fingery crux up grey wall. FA: Neil Monteith & Rebecca Hopkins, 2012 | 14m, 6 | |||
19 | ★★ Disparate Housewives
Fantastic route. It's amazing to find such a sustained, steep route at this grade. It's a toss-up whether it's 18 or 19. The main line on the pocketed wall. The wall, slightly right through bulge and continue up. In the upper section, climb just right of the bolts between clips. From last bolt to anchors, easiest is straight up from bolt and step back right to anchors, best is up steeper rock on right directly to anchor. FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran & Ray Lassman, 2010 | 20m, 7 | |||
19 | ★ The Flatularette
3m R of DH up the pocketed wall and onto the arete and follow this all the way to the anchors of DH FFA: Matt Brooks & Tracey Martens, 6 Set 2018 | 25m, 8 | |||
19 | ★★ The Young And The Wrestlers
Start: Scramble up to orange ledge (bolt) Crank through pockets, clipping the bolt in the pocket. Finish up crack. FA: Norm Booth & Kieran Loughran, 2011 | 25m, 10 | |||
21 | ★★★ Hysteria Lane
Great, varied climbing that keeps you going right to the end. The start stays wet for a long time, in fact it hasn't been dry yet. Grade is a toss-up, 20 or 21. 11 bolts (not 10 as per guidebook.) FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 2010 | 25m, 11 | |||
24 | ★★ Fumbles Route
Start on 'Hysteria Lane' and traverse across to 'Widow of Opportunity' | 18m | |||
17 | ★★ Widow Of Opportunity
Great start on pockets leads to nice arete and exciting finish. A satisfying pitch. The hangers work loose with frequent ascents so taking a shifting spanner in to tighten them after an ascent is worthwhile. Start from ledge 2m above ground level, right of Hysteria Lane. Bridge up to first bolt then traverse left. At 3rd bolt, go up until the arete is gained and followed. FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, Norm Booth & Keith Lockwood, 2010 | 25m, 10 | |||
23 | ★★ Barefoot and Poignant
Now completely superseded. FA: Alex Trnovsky & Hobbsy, 2011 | 20m, 10 | |||
23 | ★★ Fairy Footsteps
Now finishes where climbs should. Start in the same place as 'Widow of Opportunity'. Follow the crack line straight up and continue up the wall when it fades. From the double rings head up and right past two more bolts to the anchors in the alcove. FA: Alex Trnovsky & Andrew Clements, Mar 2016 | 28m, 12 |