Mt. Sugarloaf NCR Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Evan.C Ben Wright

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. Mt. Sugarloaf NCR 17 in Crag
2. Index by grade

1. Mt. Sugarloaf NCR 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

Seasonality

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.719610, 144.484376

summary

A miniscule crag with a handful of boulders. An interesting oddity if you're already near by.

description

Easy bouldering on nice rock. Bring brushed. Park at the boulders if you have a 4WD.

access issues

None.

approach

4WD access (or a 1.3km hike). From Huntley-Fosterville Rd. take Murphey Rd. to the large junction. Turn left onto the unnamed 4WD track and follow the ridgeline due south. Park in the hilltop clearing 15m from the obvious free standing block.

ethic

Developed in line with Zoroastrian principles - good thoughts, good words, good deeds. Spread happiness through charity and respect the spiritual equality of all genders. Alternately, you could go full-moto like the other park users, embracing their Bundy & Coke nihilism and delivering yourself into the clouded cognizance of life's harsh realities.

history

Written by the victor and inevitably marginalising, to chart the history of this area would only sully its retrospective potential, excluding by presumption the most interesting possibilities of the past. Who is to say, for example, that the area was not developed by buxom female pirates in the 1400's, their FA's lost to time, uncharted by the cruel quill of the patriarchy?

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
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1	★★ Bulbous Sit start and pull up through slopers to mantle. FA: Evan.C	V3	Boulder
2	Chicken Shit What happens when you bail right off the good problems.	V0	Boulder
3	★★ Eldorado Start as for deep lead, exit on jugs right of tree. More pads will help. FA: Ben Wright	V1	Boulder
4	★★★ Deep Lead Start from big rail, climb between vertical seams to crimpy top left of the tree. More pads will help. FA: Evan.C	V2	Boulder
5	★★ Gold Rush From the big rail, climb the left side of the face on perfect crimps. More pads will help. FA: Evan.C	V1	Boulder
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
6	Up & Such Climb the slopey arete. FA: Evan.C	VB	Boulder
7	★★ Milk Teeth Sit start, climb middle of face on crimp rails. FA: Evan.C	V1	Boulder
8	★ Viable Entity Sit start on slopey rail. FA: Evan.C	V3	Boulder
9	Leg Up Behind free standing block. Sit compressing edges. FA: Evan.C	V1	Boulder
10	Noob's Glory Sit start, compress your way up the blunt arete. FA: Evan.C	V1	Boulder
11	★★ Crack of Uncertainty Climb the janky crack. Get scared when feet run out. FA: Ben Wright	V1	Boulder
12	★ Pained Face Sit start by tree. FA: Evan.C	V3	Boulder
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
13	★ Full Moto Sit start compressed w/ crimp in the roof. Punch up. FA: Evan.C	V4	Boulder
14	Mighty Mite Backside. Sit start awkwardly with foot in the gap. Climb up sloping rails. FA: Evan.C	V2	Boulder
15	★★ Eureka! Sit start in cave, up arete and top left via slab. FA: Evan.C	V3	Boulder
16	Project Behind & downhill of Leg Up. Crack, to lip, to mantle right. Don't get eaten by whatever's in the burrow.		BoulderProject
17	★ Mullock Heap Pillar Climb the good rock (its orange) up the pillar. FA: Evan.C	VB	Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style
VB	★	Mullock Heap Pillar	Boulder
		Up & Such	Boulder
V0		Chicken Shit	Boulder
V1	★★	Crack of Uncertainty	Boulder
	★★	Eldorado	Boulder
	★★	Gold Rush	Boulder
		Leg Up	Boulder
	★★	Milk Teeth	Boulder
		Noob's Glory	Boulder
V2	★★★	Deep Lead	Boulder
		Mighty Mite	Boulder
V3	★★	Bulbous	Boulder
	★★	Eureka!	Boulder
	★	Pained Face	Boulder
	★	Viable Entity	Boulder
V4	★	Full Moto	Boulder
?		Project	BoulderProject