Routes in Beowa National Park

No existing route description. Location unknown.

No existing route description. Location unknown.

Start at the white splattered rock a few metres right of '6 beers before midnight' and traverse left for about 17m. Follow the lowest dyke for the first half, under-cling through the small overlap on the corner (crux), and stay on low holds well below the dyke for the second section, finishing at the incut corner.

Unprotected low down without side runners. An eliminate line, squeezed in and avoiding everything in the cracks to left and right. Straight up bouldery moves past the small undercling.

Big roof. Looked at by Neil but no bolts (yet).

Starting as for Zymurgy, climb the direct thinner line via slots and crimps to the right of the previous line and staying right of the prominent pale disc. Finish by topping out the boulder problem off the shelf and directly above.

L of WT. Delightful climbing requiring a tad of commitment. Aim for the dinner plate then finish up L facing corner and overlap.

Variously described as "Adam's one" Jump or reach up to shallow pocket. Make your way up to the top from there. Traverse left or solo to the top of the cliff once on the ledge.

Bridge and stretch your way up the corner, then head left under the block.

Stand start on rail underneath small diagonal rooflet. Make your way up.

The left of the two twin cracks. Delightful hand jams.

The right of the twin cracks.

Has it all, gymnastic start leads to a delicate face capped with an overhanging finish. All in a short action packed 9 m.

The excellent dark and shady corner that regularly sees climbers unfamiliar with the art of bridging grovelling in the crack.

1 metre right of AQPFR. Up flake and straight up wall.

Up onto the block and up the flake. Frequently used as a down climb to access the platform.

Same start as EBs Make it EZ. Up flake and into corner.

Start up corner, break through roof on the left, finish up crack.

Step across the water onto the face and place gear as you see fit (Don’t comment on the government). Trend left (of the political landscape) over the bulging (capitalists pigs) and place cams in the sickle shaped crack. Undermine the status quo by using underhanded techniques in the crack, then head straight up the middle of the road on good crimpers. Easier than it looks, easier said than done.

Up the small undercut crack just around arete, approx 2m to the R of Boys Light Up.

Major corner on R end of the wall.

Start at Fisherman's Basket but swing right onto the blocky face and up the corner to the top. Protection looks marginal... Top-rope only!

Original description: The left-hand crack of the first recessed corner. Up (ode to Bittangabee). MH: Could be same as Fish-N-Shits? Grade is too low for anything really.

Towards the left end of the face is a large, left-leaning, freestanding block. Starting to the left of Fisherman's Grief, jam the flaring crack, chimney to the top, and then scramble to the terrace. The original grade was apparently 9, updated to 12 at some point. Did it in 2021 and it is more like a 15... Perhaps the block has moved a bit?

The inside corner on the right-hand side of the recess, climbing the chimney behind the Guns, Germs and Steel block.

Old description: 7m left of Ticks and Maggots. MH: Left?

On the large freestanding block that has broken off the main cliff line. Leftward layback up the sharp arête to flake, smearing to the top. No gear.

Straight up obvious slopey crack left of MOL (Difficult to protect on lead) follow crack line to block at top, over block to top.

Start easily up the diagonal crack behind the flake, onto ledge then up purple wall straight above (crux) protect with large cam.

(The 1st climb on south end of platform) Tackle roof on jugs, left of obvious corner. Then straight up the easiest line to left side of orange rock bay and top. (Step right to a variant finish, grade 18).

Up the most obvious crack line on the far right of wall.

Climb up the two large cracks on jugs, a single crack leads to the top. Good wires for pro.

Leftward sloping finger crack at back-right of the embayment.

Right of the low sloping roofs, in the middle of the main face, is a sinuous, left-leaning crack which begins on a step at the base of the cliff. Jams needed. Watch out for pythons basking on the horizontal below the top!

Central crack in the wall across the gap, overlooking the deep ocean gutter.

Directly up, balancey, with nuts to protect the initial moves. Up to the hand crack, straight up to the ledge, then the top.

Obvious big corner with two parallel cracks up most of the central portion.

Arête immediately to the left of Cenotaph Corner Down Under.

Open book corner capped by a small roof crux. Beware of the loose looking block on left.

Obvious left-leaning, diagonal crack to the left of Fisherman's Basket. Take big cams.

Towards the left end of the face is a large, left-leaning, freestanding block. Starting to the left of Fisherman's Grief, jam the flaring crack, chimney to the top, and then scramble to the terrace. The original grade was apparently 9, updated to 12 at some point. Did it in 2021 and it is more like a 15... Perhaps the block has moved a bit?

Step across the corner to the final platform. Traverse out left around the corner and along the gutter wall above the raging sea. Gear is mostly plentiful, with runouts in a couple of spots. A memorable climb best avoided in high seas!

Up edge of the thin central flake. Use 1½ and 2 cams in quartz intrusion at roof for pro. Traverse left to the arête where a hidden thread allows a good rest. Layback up the arête, gear in slots.

Start as TTL. Crank through roof and up slopes to pocket. A jugular popping mantle leads to a good rest. Run it out to top.

Mals description to go here, problem is he had 6 Beers before Midnight and can’t remember anything. Jug Haul/Crimp/Slap Dynamically/Layback/Mantle/Smear/Scum up the easy/tricky/difficult start, follow the obvious/not so obvious line/seam/slab/crack/flake of jugs/crimps/slopers/heucos to the crux. Finish as start.

Start 3m right of the arête, head to right up crack a few metres, trend left slinging lumpy jug. Head left to arête using 1 and 1½ cams for protection. Continue up arête.

South around the corner from Beer Battered Rock is an obvious crack 2m from the arête. A short climb with tricky moves at 4m. Has a nice top out and good protection.

3 m right of NNA at obvious flakes. A tricky start then straight up flakes, great gear, great fun, very rough treatment for the uninitiated.

Undercut start a few metres left of AQPFR. Crank hard and twist lock to small mantle edge. Desperate moves to crimpy edges on back wall. Arrange cams under rooflet flake, undercling and find the hidden flake up high. Cruise to the top.

Start as for MND. Head straight up from lumpy jug to hidden heuco. Move up and right along thin break then up small pockets to slopey mantle top out. Serious.

Around the back of the Guns, Germs and Steel block is a recessed bay with a very thin corner crack at the back left. Interesting technical moves past 3 badly rusted FHs, then easily up to rusty anchor brackets.

Very bouldery start – landing is good. Up to thin horizontal slot, place 0.5 cam after you reach the next holds. Thin moves follow on equally thin gear, bloody brilliant.

Step across the water onto the arête, head on up, cams in horizontals. Arrange gear under small roof and pull through to glory. Alternate starts possible.

Up the line of shallow pods/pockets passing a two finger pocket en route – to the left of Johnny Shoot the Messenger Boy

The wall a couple of metres left of Sedition

Variant of Boys Light Up. Up gymnastic start then straight up L arete only.

Crack left of Flight 11.

Straight up the face, starting 3 meters left of Fisherman's Dunny. Begin easily on jugs past a carrot making balancey moves to gain small pockets. Trend right towards the horizontal break, then up to good holds at 2nd carrot. Finish straight up using small wires or cams for protection.

Start as for Cenotaph Corner Down Under, swing out right on large jug, clip the first bolt with the hanger then straight up using the pockets someone just put there for this climb, passing two carrots to the top.

Start as for Fisherman's Dunny, step left on break, then straight up the face past two carrots on thin holds to natural break, straight up to finish.

Short, sharp, bouldery arête on the Guns, Germs and Steel block at the mouth of the dark chasm. Has two bolts and a single bolt lower-off that looks a little rusty as of 2021...

Original description: Around left from Bindun in a small dark chasm.

Best trad line on the cliff. Thin seam splitting the orange and grey rock 10m around the left of Salty The Seal. You can see this route from the fishing ledges back at the tourist track. Locate the double BR bolts at the top of the route near the cliff edge. Thin crack to start leads into small left facing cornerette. Great gear and great climbing. Double BR belay.

Partially toproped (upper half only)

Good line and great climbing. The easiest way up this section of wall. Start right of the overhung wall and traverse across left on amazing quartz dyke to reach small ledge. Straight up the thin crack above to large left facing corner conclusion.

Tenuous pocketed crux up blank looking corner. Almost a sport route. Start 3m right of Crystalline. Wander up the nice juggy start then enter the overhung blank corner. Quickly exit right and up pockets then step back into corner. 5 U-bolts. Fist crack size cams to finish.

Start as for Salty The Seal but go straight up to steepness (UB). Swing left and up to big undercling heuco and upwards. Big scoops and bizarre crux. Sustained. Bring some small/ medium cams and some slings for the threads above the last bolt. 4 u-bolts.

A strong trad line that looks much worse than it is. Locate rock wedged in tree about 2m back from edge. The crack is visible splitting the cliff edge. Rap from tree into small belay ledge 5m above swell. Stem up v-corner then over bulge. Easily up wide crack then launch up the sustained handcrack to top.

A strong natural line straight up the guts of the main wall. 3m right of Barnacle Breath at undercut crack. Up crack to steep corner, stem this (RB) then up crack to juggy conclusion. Sin- gle U bolt lower-off. Don’t try and top out the grass up above. Bring a full rack.

Starts at major arête, Traverse diagonally up and right across giant crystals to break through right side of big roof. Com- mitting finish up slabby runnels.

Starts at major arête, Traverse diagonally up and right across giant crystals to break through right side of big roof. Com- mitting finish up slabby runnels.

Conditions were less than ideal on the first ascent. Starts 2m right of RS. Up delicate face to under left side of big roof, monkey out this on jugs then tough lip pull to mantle onto ledge. Stem up open corner to juggy conclusion. 4 u-bolts + medium trad.

A big dark line, which tends to stay wet after heavy rain. Starts 2m right of major blank corner and 6m right of Humidifier. Up unlikely thin face seam (u-bolt) and onto ledge. Swing left over undercut and up left into lift shaft (UB). Stem up this shaft to top. Harder if you are short. Full rack required to #4 SLCD.

Sustained pod crack climbing with a bit of choss to finish. Starts 2m right of LASTE. Bouldery start to get to first UB. 3 u-bolts. Bring a standard rack to supplement bolts.

Major trad excursion through some unlikely territory. A piece of driftwood is wedged in the horizontal halfway up this route! Starts 4m right of chimney slot, at undercut wall. Boulder through roof and then work your way up to easiest break in roof at third height. Swing left and up heucos to top. Bring cams up to #5.

A bunch of Japanese tourists filmed the equipping of this route. The exposed rounded prow with bouldery gritstone start. Located 6m right of SSM. Edge up start (2 u-bolts) onto ledge. Up face above (UB) to committing finish move. Medi- um cams/wires required.

RP special. Daunting line with just enough (small) gear. Starts 6m right of PD, and 2m left of major blank corner. Climb up short wall to ledge. Stem up short closed corner, step right and up to big break (#5 cam). Edge up face above (RPs and tiny cams) to finally reach a good ledge and gear. Easily to top.

Committing trad climbing split by three ledges. Starts 3m right of major corner at small right facing corner. Spaced small gear and a long reach move at about 7m. Finish up leftwards into small right facing corner flake. Take standard rack plus micro cams (Black Aliens).

Sustained flakes and one of the best routes here. Continuous rain showers thwarted attempts. Starts 3m right of TTL below open book corner. Stem up this (UB) to horizontal break. Lay- back up wonderful flakes to top.

Up obvious thin cracks and pockets, 2m R of Zymurgy. Up tricky crack to large pocket and up. Originally graded 15.

Up undercut flake corner to ledge then continue to top through two roofs.

2m R of Sedition. Delicately bridge through thought provoking corner up to steep top wall.

Flake line just R of YC.

Face and book corner just R of Yosemite Corner. (RPs Optional).

Face R of DCL. Tricky, committing start leads to easier climbing to the top. Stepping out right certainly lowers the grade.

Flake at left end. Up steep flake, finishing up slab.

Start below the small, right-facing flake. Up this, pass flared horizontal (small cam), and up to ledge. Couple of runners in the back, then make the big step up and left (unprotected) and cruise to finish.

Main central crack up to pocket and finish.

1m R of ED. R leaning flakes to trick top out, steeper than it looks.

Climb the prominent crack to the top. Can be turned into an epic if you mix up your left and right.

Committed approach, up faint crack then step right and follow weakness.

Start at crack line at water's edge, and finish up left facing corner on R.

Start up wide slot, and continue up crack.

Boulder moves up the steep arete, 2m R of Yosemite Corner.

Classic of the crag. The overhanging nature of this climb will leave a leader digging deep as you go for the top. Start on left and step onto wall over perpetual puddle, traverse right into line and follow face and flakes up to large horizontal. Move R to double threads and blast for the top.

The corner crack finishing straight up. Reach the start by funky traverse in from the right end of puddle. Lose a star if you traverse in from the left.

The far-right corner — if only it was 3x as long!