Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
V12 | |||||
The Stronghold Inchman South Face | |||||
V12 | ★★★ Nilaavu
Start on the double gastons a couple of tricky moves and a desperate swing will get you established onto The Never Ending Story, finish as for this. | 3m | |||
V11 | |||||
The Stronghold Inchman South Face | |||||
V11 | ★★★ Iyora
Sit start on the opposing side pulls, a big pull brings you up to the nose then up and right to top of the boulder. | 3m | |||
The Stronghold Zinc Fingers Boulder | |||||
V11 | 1. Uprising
| ||||
The Stronghold Barad-dur | |||||
V11 | Project
The awesome steep arete. Traverse left to jugs about two thirds the way up. | ||||
V10 | |||||
The Weakhold The Book Thief Bloc | |||||
V10 | ★★★ The Book Thief
The striking highball arete on the main face of the boulder. Sit start on the jug at the bottom of the arete, lob up to the sloper and continue up past edges and pockets before cruising up the highball victory head wall. The easiest way down is to down climb the headwall and jump onto the pads. | ||||
The Stronghold Inchman South Face | |||||
V10 | ★ Greed is Good
Start around the arete left of Iyora, up to small pocket and then mantle left. | 3m | |||
V10 | ★★ The Never Ending Story
Start as for Ball and Chain and make your way right, topping out on Sledgehammer, pumpy climbing. | 3m | |||
The Stronghold Inner City Boulder | |||||
V10 | Inner City Pressure
| ||||
Main Cliff Boulders Excavator Boulder | |||||
V10 | Project
Up face and finish straight up. | ||||
V9 | |||||
The Weakhold Monkey Boulder | |||||
V9 | ★★ Tales from outer Suburbia
Hang Start - Undercut face on far left of boulder to sloper finish | ||||
The Weakhold The Book Thief Bloc | |||||
V9 | ★★★ Eco-Terrorist
The main face with two cracks spilling down it. Start with the left hand in the three-finger pocket and the right hand on the edge at the bottom of the crack, bust up using underclings and side pulls. There is a direct sit-start to go using two sloping edges on the face below. | 4m | |||
The Stronghold Straight Lines Area | |||||
V9 | Mouthful of Love
| ||||
V8 | |||||
The Weakhold Heartstarter Wall | |||||
V8 | ★★ Heartstarter
Standing start on an undercling/sidepull with the right hand and a bad edge with the left, head up and left through a series of slopey edges. | ||||
The Weakhold Illumination Wall | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Ruination Day
Stand - Start on the big jugs in the middle of the wall, head up and then punch out right to top out in the same place as Illuminatie. | 4m | |||
V8 | Leftwards to Ruination
Stand - Start as Rightly Illuminated but bust right into Ruination day and Illuminatie finish. Maybe just a bit harder than Ruination but maybe not significantly. | 4m | |||
The Stronghold Inchman South Face | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Chain Gang Bang
Start as for Hang Me Up, traverse right and finish up Chain Gang. Originally grade V7 but after some of Tassies' hottest talent failed to send it V8 seems like a more appropriate grade ;-) | 3m | |||
The Blockhouse Stubbie Boulder | |||||
V8 | Stubbie
Sit start from two crimps. Stand start off opposing side pulls is about V2. | ||||
V7 | |||||
The Weakhold J'Aimerais Bien Francais | |||||
V7 | ★★★ J'Aimerais Bien Francais
An ultra classic problem. Sit start on the obvious jug and head up the wall into the committing finishing moves. If you brake the cimps off at the start please put them somewhere safe. | ||||
The Stronghold Inchman South Face | |||||
V7 | ★★ Chain Gang
Start matched on incut diagonal hold a couple of metres left of Sledgehammer, up to top jugs. | 3m | |||
The Stronghold The Balcony | |||||
V7 | V6/7
- | ||||
The Blockhouse Merci Boulder | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Merci Fire
Starting on the right hand pocket and left hand pinch. Up shallow crack without using arete. FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2010 | 4m | |||
Main Cliff Boulders Excavator Boulder | |||||
V7 | V7
From low rail, ip middle of the steep face, finishing left. | ||||
V6 | |||||
The Weakhold Politik Boulders | |||||
V6 | ★ Eyes Wide Shut
Stand - Slab through little bulge. Harder than it looks. | ||||
The Weakhold Chronicle Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★★ The Story of Death Foretold
Start matched on the one-pad edges on the steepest part of the wall, head up and left to top out. | ||||
V6 | ★★★ The Doctor
The obvious sit-start on two edges heading up the face below the main arête of the boulder. | ||||
The Weakhold J'Aimerais Bien Francais | |||||
V6 | ★★ V5/6
The classic high arete on the right edge of the J'Aimerais Bien Francais wall. | ||||
The Weakhold Illumination Wall | |||||
V6 | ★★★ Illuminatie
Stand - Start on the jug at the right hand end of the wall, head straight up the face to top out. | 4m | |||
V6 | Rightly Illuminated
Stand - Starting on the jugs at head height up to the corner of the seam, past a crimp rail, to join Everything is Illuminated (a left healhook on the jugs is key). Probably a touch harder than Everything is Illuminated but not much. | 4m | |||
V6 | ★ V6
Up on pockets from right hand side of the scoop on the left side of the wall. | 5m | |||
The Weakhold The Book Thief Bloc | |||||
V6 | ★★ Pendulum
It's very hard to say how hard this is, maybe around V-6ish. Sit start with your right hand on the bottom most hold on the flake and the left hand on a small edge, slap up the flake to the jugs and head up the easy top out. | 4m | |||
The Stronghold Badass Wall | |||||
V6 | ★★★ Cool Guys don't look at explosions
The tall line up the prominent black streak. A classic highball with the crux exactly where it's supposed to be, at the top. FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2010 | 7m | |||
The Stronghold Inchman South Face | |||||
V6 | ★★ Block Buster
Start left hand in crack. bad feet and bust up to big sledge hammer jug. | 3m | |||
V6 | ★★ Ball and Chain
Start right hand on the pinch and left on the gaston, up to slope then big pull to the top. | 3m | |||
The Stronghold The Balcony | |||||
V6 | V6
Start on pockets then up and left to the big sloper - still awaiting a topout. | ||||
The Stronghold Dave's Arete Area | |||||
V6 | Dave's Arete
| ||||
The Stronghold Vitriol Area | |||||
V6 | ★★ Pocket Full of Pulleys
Start at narrow pocket, move left to arete and up | 5m | |||
The Stronghold Back Wall | |||||
V6 | Pommie Ring In
Up left side of prow to the jugs above the old carrot. Continuing on towards the prow will tale some balls. | ||||
The Stronghold Orthanc | |||||
V6 | Limpet
| 4m | |||
The Stronghold Inner City Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★★ City Migi
| ||||
The Stronghold Smear Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★ Slope Test
| ||||
V5 | |||||
The Weakhold Politik Boulders | |||||
V5 | ★★★ Politik
Stand start using undercling, up through bulge on slopers and crimps, a fun problem. The hard sit start is a project. | ||||
V5 | V4/5
Stand - Tricky slab | ||||
The Weakhold Corner Crack Wall | |||||
V5 | ★★ V4/5
Start just right of the corner crack at a flat hold. Move right then up via slopers. | ||||
The Weakhold 8 Seconds Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★ 8 Seconds
The undercut righthand arete. Traverse the lip on slopers then up. | ||||
The Weakhold Agent Smith Block | |||||
V5 | ★★ Russian Doll
Line 1m left of Rope a Dope, to same top out | ||||
V5 | ★ V5
Slopers just right of the tree | ||||
The Weakhold Illumination Wall | |||||
V5 | ★ V5
The right most and easiest problem on the wall. Sit start on the juggy rail and head up and rightish. V-5ish?? | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ Everything is Illuminated
SDS. Up and rightish on positive jugs, shallow pockets, and a rail, before moving back slightly left for high topout. Welcome to classicville. | 4m | |||
The Weakhold Seduction Bloc | |||||
V5 | ★★ The Seduction of Silence
The classic of the boulder. Start as for There Were the Pepper Grows but head straight up on the right side of the arête. | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ There Where The Pepper Grows
Sit start in the slopey break and head up before busting out left under the arête to finish on the left face. | 4m | |||
V5 | ★ Ca va Bien
Ca va's more difficult twin. | 4m | |||
The Stronghold Inchman South Face | |||||
V5 | ★★ Sledgehammer
On R side of face - big pull from horizontal to horizontal then up over top. | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★★ Hang Me Out to Dry
Nice face with slopers. Start on the edges below the big sloper. Take a grade or so off if you stack the pads up and start on the sloper. | 3m | |||
The Stronghold Vitriol Area | |||||
V5 | ★ Vitriol Left
Start as Vitriol then chuck left to a flake and continue left via crimps to top out on the obvious horn. Bring a couple pads or helmet. | 4m | |||
The Stronghold Don't Fight It Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★★ See Ros Run
| 8m | |||
V5 | ★★ Belly of the Beast
Start on the same sloping jugs as The Panics, do it's crux move and then go right and hug your way up the belly of the boulder. FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2010 | 5m | |||
V5 | V4/5
Stand - Start at a good side pull of "Bug, Power, Dust" then up to rail and veer right past sidepulls and slaps to finish near "Don't fight it". Refuse the temptation to use left crack system. A little Contrived. | 4m | |||
The Stronghold Barad-dur | |||||
V5 | ★ Zazen
Start up the crack a couple of metres left of Crack of Doom. Move right into Crack of Doom at the Top. Good moves and improving rock as you go higher, a tad committing but with a flat landing. | 6m | |||
The Stronghold Dirt Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★ Dirty Faced Mother Fucker
SDS - The footwork beta problem. Up the centre of the face from a stistart. Harder if you're short. FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2009 | ||||
The Stronghold Smear Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★★ 3. Slope Exam
| ||||
V5 | ★ Smear Test
| 5m | |||
The Blockhouse Merci Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★★★ The Original Fire
Very nice flakes up left side of steep face. Head right to finish. | 4m | |||
V4 | |||||
The Theatre | |||||
V4 | ★★ Borborygmi
A great sustained problem. Start at the back of the cave on the underclings, work your way through the cave finishing on the jugs above the lip. | ||||
The Weakhold Monkey Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★ Common Problem
On the far right side of the boulder, just right of a thin crack. Start on edges, a couple of hard moves leads to jugs. | ||||
The Weakhold Agent Smith Block | |||||
V4 | ★ Monkey gone to Heaven
Start at low pockets 1m left of tree. Up to break then dyno to top. | ||||
The Weakhold Illumination Wall | |||||
V4 | Low traverse
Start of left jug, follow the diagonal weakness down to bum dragging height, then straight up 2 moves, then along right on thing holds avoiding the higher good holds | 4m | |||
The Stronghold Badass Wall | |||||
V4 | ★★ Hit and Run
A classic mantle problem. Start at the two obvious pockets under the roof, a big move to the lip leads to the mantle. Careful of loose rabble on the slab above, the initial cleaning of the problem ended up in a trip to the Emergency Room. FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2010 | 4m | |||
V4 | V4
A traverse has been done from right to left starting on sidepulls underneath FTB | ||||
V4 | ★ Fuck the Brakes
Start on jugs under the small roof. Straight up to the pockets and a high topout. FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2010 | 7m | |||
The Stronghold Fiddler Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★★ Fiddely Du
Awkward start from the flake then up right via the obvious pocket. | ||||
The Stronghold Not My Problem Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★★ Ticked Off
From scoop holds with left hand, up arete via pinches to top. | ||||
V4 | ★ Not My Problem
Steep arete to balancy topout. | ||||
The Stronghold Inchman North Face | |||||
V4 | Autobahn in Low Gear
A footwork intensive 'low' version of the Autobahn. Start as for Autobahn and traverse left keeping hands below lip, take a couple of grades off if you use the detached flake on the ground near the left arete. FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2008 | ||||
The Stronghold Straight Lines Area | |||||
V4 | ★ Busted
| 2m | |||
The Stronghold Don't Fight It Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★★ V3/4 SDS
| 6m | |||
V4 | Not So Contrived Now!
| 4m | |||
V4 | ★ Bug, Powder, Dust
| 4m | |||
V4 | ★★★ Setting Sun
Sustained dead-pointing up pockets and features on slightly overhanging wall. | 4m | |||
The Stronghold Zinc Fingers Boulder | |||||
V4 | 2. Zinc Fingers
| ||||
The Stronghold Barad-dur | |||||
V4 | ★★ Crack of Doom
The awesome highball crack | 6m | |||
Main Cliff Boulders Bulldozer Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★ The Bulldozer
Big pull of shaky flakes to top. | ||||
Main Cliff Boulders Lebowski Boulder | |||||
V4 | The Big Lebowski
Hang start, left to right lip traverse. | ||||
V3 | |||||
The Weakhold International Traveller Boulder | |||||
V3 | ★★ Drunk German
Sit start up steep bottom arete, best line on the boulder. Needs a bit more cleaning at the top. | 4m | |||
The Weakhold Slackers Cave | |||||
V3 | V3
Start on the big jug and finish hanging from the big mossy jug. Award yourself three foam stars for softness if you soften or pike the finish (includes cleaning the jug!) | ||||
The Weakhold Caliginous Boulder | |||||
V3 | ★★ Masons' Handshake
Start on holds each side of the arete and head for the top. | ||||
V3 | Caliginous
Face left of the arete | ||||
The Weakhold Politik Boulders | |||||
V3 | ★ V3
On the next boulder across, sit start using opposing side pulls, up on to slab. | ||||
V3 | ★★ Seam
Stand - Up seam line using side pulls on to slab | ||||
The Weakhold Double Dave Prow | |||||
V3 | ★ Double Dave Prow
Highball - Up the left edge of the prow. Struggle up to the horizontal break then down climb off to the left. | ||||
The Weakhold Monkey Boulder | |||||
V3 | One Foot High
Sit start at sloper in middle of face. Up. | ||||
V3 | ★ Code Brown
Sit start just left of the arete on back of the boulder, head up and L. | ||||
The Weakhold Agent Smith Block | |||||
V3 | ★★ Rope a Dope
Jugs to slopey top out | ||||
V3 | ★ 2nd V3
Start on slopey crimp and head for the jug. | ||||
V3 | 1st V3
Start on the good slopey edges and head up and right through the weird slopey stuff | ||||
The Weakhold Extra Terrestrial | |||||
V3 | ★★ James Wishes he was a Frenchman
Superb climbing up the main face of the boulder. Start on the sidepulls on the face, climb delicately up the face before gaining the arête at about two-thirds height. | ||||
The Weakhold Illumination Wall | |||||
V3 | ★ Illumination Traverse
Obvious traverse line. Do SDS of Everything is illuminated, then move right until the line peters-out. Can be done in either direction. | 5m | |||
The Weakhold Seduction Bloc | |||||
V3 | V3
From the start of The Double Traverse, up and left on small holds to jugs at the top. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Ca va
Wow! SDS just right of Bonjour. Up using slopey rails, then dyno like a possessed person. Classy. | 4m | |||
The Weakhold The Book Thief Bloc | |||||
V3 | ★★ Atomised
SDS under 'arch' where Book Thief Bloc leans on Eco-Terrorist Bloc. Move up and left along right arete of Book Thief Bloc. | 4m | |||
V3 | V3
Follow the crack line to the left of Book Thief |