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The Minion Overhang

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 2
2
BLDV
V4

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
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D

Description

A lowball overhang with a couple of powerful and relatively worthwhile problems. Rock is pretty rough on the fingers but the holds definitely aren't going anywhere. The boulder has some odd thick yellow paint splattered on areas of the rock but for the most part it has no effect on the climbing.

Access issues inherited from Jubilee Place Park

It is not certain whether access into this small reserve is explicitly permitted or not. One of two access gates is unlocked with the other having chains. Some parts of the area also transition between public and private property. These transition areas are not near the climbing but nonetheless care should be taken when climbing here.

Approach

From the main area gain the top of the short cliff and head to the right through some low bushes to find the minion overhang next to a large tree. From the boardwalk follow the chain link fence to the small gate towards the end of the fence, jump it and walk forwards to position yourself on top of the minion boulder

Routes

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Grade Route

Short powerful problem. Start on the paint speckled rail low down at the edge of the cave. Move up to the small weirdly angled gaston numb. Then go with your left hand for the sloping crimp. Get the lip with your right hand then top out. Avoid the large rectangular jug when topping out for an extra challenge.

FA: Cara O'Connor, 3 May 2020

Starting as for 'Banana' Head out left for the small blocked crimp. Bump for solid hold above, move feet and bring right hand up to sloper crimp. Top out is awkward and tricky. Start has been done isolated and topout has been done isolated with the rectangular jug in. It would be better if the final send was topped without using the jug. V4-V5 open project

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Mike Forward and Peter Balint

Date: 2023

With 2065 bouldering problems ranging from V0-V15 across 57 areas nestled around Sydney, the all new Sydney Bouldering Guide will keep you occupied for years to come. Just because we live in Sydney we'll try not to be biased but honestly this city has some amazing bouldering and usually not more than a few minutes off the road or some even near parks and train stations. There's no need to camp out and trek for hours to get to world class problems, they're right on your door step.

Authors Mike Forward and Peter Balint spent over 7 years putting this guide together and is the first new bouldering guide for Sydney in over 20 years. It's over 350 colour pages including 600+ colour photo tops, crag tops, amazing images and more.

Author(s): Neil Monteith & Simon Carter

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780645299908

Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.

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Wed 17 May
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