Ascents in Right Main Wall as Hang dog

Wages demanded blood tribute today, I'm missing a lot of skin which started separating while in the first finger lock after the first bolt... Good prompt to try a left hand side pull move up which also works well and doesn't demand skin.

Took an unsuspecting whip just below the chains. Next time for sure..

Few burns on TRS. Feels cruisy. Frustrating couple of slips on my 2 send goes after dialling beta. Figured out much more stable beta that’ll go easily. Nothing feels particularly cruxy but no clue how it’d go having to clip draws. Fighting the urge to dog & downgrade but I’ll save that for the redpoint.

Finally pulled the lower crux, sorted clipping beta for the upper.

Jumped on the route cause it looked really well bolted and was keen for something chill. Good time working the beta and enjoying the moves on the way up. Pulled over the top onto the slab and was greeted with a nice shiny bail biner in my face. “Aha!” I thought. Some chump couldn’t handle the smoke and now I reap the rewards. I snatched it eagerly. I then spent the next 15 minutes yoyoing up and down the start of the slab nervously looking up at the blank wall it’s a distinct lack of bolts. Eventually someone wanders over to tell up to me that the anchors are just over the lip and while it’s runout it’s pretty easy. Now I have to do it. I’m better then red biner bailer I tell myself. I head up and I’m pleased to find it’s pretty easy. I get a bit higher. Bit harder now, I start to look at the last bolt nervously. Higher still, now I’m in the shadow of the spotlights. I take a shaking hand off a sweaty smear to turn my head torch brighter. It flashes angrily at me, no dice. I can’t even see my belayer anymore. I’m climbing in a faint bubble of light, I could be 3m runout or I could be 30, either way I’m convinced I’ll die if I fall. The holds slowly get worse - retreat is no longer an option. I’m at the event horizon. My mind goes blank. Suddenly a carat bolt appears in front of my eyes. I shakily grab an extender off my harness and limply sling it over the metal. Only half the sling bites in. I know any slight gust of wind will pull it off. I look ahead over the lip and see the anchors almost within reach. One hard move separates me from safety. I take a deep breath…. … … Right foot up. Smear reminiscent of dawn wall foothold. Right hand up. Left hand up. I yell down to my belayer to stop spinning the twister wheel so fast. I blow the dust off the sloped that I’m clinging to and promise myself that if I get out of this alive I’ll take up a safer sport like ice climbing or perhaps wingsuit base jumping. With shaking legs I pull over the lip, frantically grab a draw from my harness and clip the anchors.

Great route would recommend. Probably go next time. Bit spooky at the top but worth it! Maybe a bit soft for 22, could be 21.

Had a bit of assistance at the crux from belayer

Big move towards the top! Don't know if it was first climb jitters or what but had to take

Pretty technical! Dry fired the crux on the first shot and resorted to hoping my way through. Need to dial in the beta...

Got the dyno on the second try, then rest at the next clip. Happy to be able to try this again. Time to revisit a few of the KP classics.

Delivered a true KatTheGlacier spesh by hanging on every bolt and second guessing every jug. Thanks for the patient belay Myles

Was a bit too tired by the time I got on this climb for the crux, but should go clean when fresh. Good climb though; will be back.

Why had I never been on this? Was really good. Needed to think a moment how to avoid the dyno (not suitable if you are 5 foot 4), but it's possible to crimp your way up to the jug. Will go clean next time.

Actually awesome

Thanks Mark for the fresh ringbolts!

It's still hard, especially so in soft shoes!

Top Rope Solo

So glad rain didn't ruin it today. Still need to work on better beta for the final blank face above the third and final bolt. Did a massive dyno to get to the juggy hold at the top, but better feet should help eliminate such desperate measures.

Fun moves. Def some rope help after last bolt for right hand to left hand in crack.

Struggled to find good feet for clipping the 5th and ended up too pumped to finish it off