Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Fri 10th May 2024 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Left Main Wall | |||||||
22 R | ★★ Love Hurts | 20m, 5 | Average | ||||
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Wed 8th May 2024 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Left Main Wall | |||||||
20 | ★★ Move Over Brussel Sprout | 18m, 4 | |||||
first crack at TRS, somewhat janky but it worked pretty well.
not super stoked about my rope landing on a heavily-used tampon but i guess it was due a wash anyway… oh KP… |
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Fri 15th Mar 2024 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
18 | ★ Stoat Clips Bolts | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Different setup, less enjoyable
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Thu 14th Mar 2024 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
17 | ★ Pterodactyl D | 17m, 4 | |||||
Sussing ARC training options, pretty enjoyable. Sweaty
|
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17 | ★ Pterodactyl D | 17m, 4 | |||||
17 | ★ Pterodactyl D | 17m, 4 | |||||
17 | ★ Pterodactyl D | 17m, 4 | |||||
17 | ★ Pterodactyl D | 17m, 4 | |||||
17 | ★ Pterodactyl D | 17m, 4 | |||||
17 | ★ Pterodactyl D | 17m, 4 | |||||
17 | ★ Pterodactyl D | 17m, 4 | |||||
Sun 21st Jan 2024 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Brisbane Bitter — 2 attempts | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
"Is it raining? No, sorry, that's my sweat dripping down on you." As humid as it gets, somehow managed to stitch it together.
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Sun 10th Dec 2023 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Dysentery RHF — 3 attempts | 18m, 6 | |||||
Sat 18th Nov 2023 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Left Main Wall | |||||||
16 ~18 | ★★ Halva — 3 attempts | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Pretty hard for the grade I would say but the moves are a tonne of fun took me a few attempts but that’s most likely from the solo nerves
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Wed 18th Oct 2023 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ The Bolting Gestapo — 2 attempts | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Ordinarily should get this grade but confidence wasn't high.
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Tue 10th Oct 2023 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
10 | ★ Hanging Garden - with Yan | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tried rope solo for the first time with top rope belay.
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Wed 30th Aug 2023 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
23 | ★★ Cucumber Castle | 18m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 27th Aug 2023 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Wages Of Fear - with Sam Pearson | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Thu 10th Aug 2023 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Wages Of Fear — 6 attempts | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Testing out new devices nano and the lift
Nano is terrible
|
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Sun 30th Jul 2023 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Wages Of Fear | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 21st Jul 2023 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
23 | ★★ Cucumber Castle | 18m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
TRS project sesh, good stuff
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Fri 30th Jun 2023 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
25 | ★★ Bufo Marinus | 8m, 1 | |||||
Couple laps, start is nails, after bolt it's fairly easy
|
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Tue 2nd May 2023 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★ Idiot Wind | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
TRS laps x3. Totally forget the beta on this climb every session, still fair game for an onsight go I reckon
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Sat 29th Apr 2023 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Left Main Wall | |||||||
15 R | ★ Wind in the Willows | 18m, 4 | |||||
Fri 28th Apr 2023 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
18 | ★ Pterodactyl | 17m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mon 24th Apr 2023 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Wages Of Fear | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Ready for a lead burn.
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Fri 21st Apr 2023 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
14 | ★ Anonymous | 20m | Average | ||||
Thu 16th Feb 2023 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ The Bolting Gestapo | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
22 | ★★ Gobble | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 6th Feb 2023 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★ Idiot Wind — 4 attempts | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Laps perfecting the soloing rig
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Fri 13th Jan 2023 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★ Idiot Wind — 3 attempts | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
TR solo just to get the arms moving after 6 weeks off. x3
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Wed 11th Jan 2023 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
19 | ★ Anonymous Arete | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tue 10th Jan 2023 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★ Gobble | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Beta obtained but ass kicked. Some holds still spoogy from last rain plus humidity.
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19 | ★★ The Bolting Gestapo | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 2nd Jan 2023 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Left Main Wall | |||||||
16 | Samson's Pillar | 20m | Don't Bother | ||||
Stinker of a summer night for it. Not ready for this on the sharp end yet but good to familiarise myself with the route; the crumbly part, the sandy part, the muddy part, the slimy part, the weedy part and the waspy part. Much like in the biblical story, it's going down! Wee sit at the crux to work the moves over.
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Mon 26th Dec 2022 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Left Main Wall | |||||||
18 | ★ Wounded Knee — 2 attempts | 18m, 4 | Average | ||||
Thu 22nd Dec 2022 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Left Main Wall | |||||||
16 | ★ Slime Fresh | 18m | |||||
16 | ★ Slime Fresh | 18m | |||||
16 | ★ Slime Fresh | 18m | |||||
Tue 20th Dec 2022 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Left Main Wall | |||||||
16 | ★ Standing Room Only | 18m, 5 | |||||
Fri 16th Dec 2022 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
18 | ★ Dodgy Dub | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
16 | ★ Moonlight Dilemma | 15m, 5 | |||||
Wed 7th Dec 2022 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Nursery Cliffs | |||||||
10 | Climb Twelve | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tue 6th Dec 2022 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Nursery Cliffs | |||||||
17 | ★ Climb Fifteen | 10m, 1 | |||||
Mon 21st Nov 2022 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Left Main Wall | |||||||
14 | ★ The Hyena's Heinie (Variant Start) | 18m, 5 | |||||
16 | ★ The Bee's Knees — 2 attempts | 16m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thu 10th Nov 2022 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Nursery Cliffs | |||||||
8 | ★ Climb Nine | 10m | |||||
Tue 8th Nov 2022 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ The Bolting Gestapo | 18m, 5 | |||||
TR solo
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Sat 5th Nov 2022 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Left Main Wall | |||||||
14 | ★ The Lemur's Femur | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 30th Oct 2022 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
23 23 R | ★★ Gangbang Wall DS | 18m, 3 | |||||
Feels more achievable using Tom P’s beta at start of crux… can do it pretty statically by getting both feet real high…
Gonna take a lot of work to string together the rest of crux moves though… basically have to just not let go and power through till i have hands on jug… |
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23 23 R | ★★ Gangbang Wall DS | 18m, 3 | |||||
Sat 29th Oct 2022 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
23 23 R | ★★ Gangbang Wall DS - with Will West | 18m, 3 | |||||
Playing around
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Fri 28th Oct 2022 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
23 | ★★ Gangbang Wall - with Johnny Sullivan | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
TRS on Johnny's rig after not touching this thing for a year. Finger strength needs improvement before this has a chance of going
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Thu 27th Oct 2022 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
23 23 R | ★★ Gangbang Wall DS | 18m, 3 | |||||
Wow I really bad at crimping
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Wed 26th Oct 2022 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Left Main Wall | |||||||
16 | ★ Slime Fresh | 18m | |||||
Top-rope-solo-aid-hang-dog-french-free-spicy-5.8-trad
After watching Lord Dave Macleod’s latest video on learning to trust protection, I decided to go for a night-time fifi ascent. Placed about 20 pieces and stood up on each one. Didn’t really do much for my trust in the gear as all of the placements held besides 2x #0 Z4’s, and I braced myself cause I knew they were gonna blow after Jack showed me on some 23 at frog how dodgy they can be. Another factor was that most of the placements were either totem’s or dmm offsets, which are both more bomber than bolts, so of course you can trust them… although I did get 3 or 4 hexes which were absolutely lovely… I guess I am OK with trusting gear, just not yet OK with falling on gear… which I guess is the next step… maybe not at KP though… |
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Fri 14th Oct 2022 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★ Piles | 17m, 6 | |||||
This goes soon
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22 | ★★ Piles | 17m, 6 | |||||
Wed 12th Oct 2022 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★ Piles | 17m, 6 | |||||
Beta is dialled as much as possible… guess grade 22 is just my absolute limit atm..
Basically have to just give it a couple rp burns everytime I’m here and probably have a 10% chance of sending it each shot… |
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22 | ★★ Piles | 17m, 6 | |||||
22 | ★★ Piles | 17m, 6 | |||||
Trying to find beta that is easy on right knee…
Also trying to sort out a good rest before crux. Interestingly i find the crux easier if I don’t look at my feet and just go for it |
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22 | ★★ Piles | 17m, 6 | |||||
22 | ★★ Piles | 17m, 6 | |||||
Mon 10th Oct 2022 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Left Main Wall | |||||||
26 | ★★ The Olos Slab | 20m, 5 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
One day i will send this line. Dont hold your breath though.. it might take a couple decades. Such an iconic climb and definitely does feel like a frog hard wall route. My toes are mushed and my fingers feel like the dodgy debt collectors got hold of them but greatly enjoyed mucking around on it. Traverse into and turning the roof are absolutely wild. Thankyou for having me mr olos and excuse my punter grigri + prussik rope solo setup. It will be refined next time
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Sun 9th Oct 2022 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★ Piles | 17m, 6 | |||||
Testing out the knee.
Results were not good |
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Thu 6th Oct 2022 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Honed And Buffed | 17m, 4 | |||||
24 | ★★ Honed And Buffed | 17m, 4 | |||||
24 | ★★ Wages Of Fear | 18m, 5 | |||||
24 | ★★ Wages Of Fear | 18m, 5 | |||||
Laps
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Tue 4th Oct 2022 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Wages Of Fear | 18m, 5 | |||||
Mon 3rd Oct 2022 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Nursery Cliffs | |||||||
5 2 | ★★ Pyornkrachzark's Staircase | 10m | |||||
2 | ★★ Pyornkrachzark's Staircase | 10m | |||||
5 2 | ★★ Pyornkrachzark's Staircase | 10m | |||||
Thu 15th Sep 2022 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Left Main Wall | |||||||
20 20 R | ★ Crossed With No Name V | 20m, 4 | |||||
20 20 R | ★ Zac | 20m | |||||
Wed 14th Sep 2022 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Left Main Wall | |||||||
20 20 R | ★ 32A | 20m, 3 | |||||
19 | ★★ Chubba Chips Mods | 20m, 3 | |||||
21 | ★ Another Faustian Dilemma (Right) | 18m, 5 | |||||
15 | ★ Breakfast at Tiffany's | 18m, 5 | |||||
21 21 R | ★ Burning Fragment | 18m, 2 | |||||
Thu 18th Aug 2022 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
22 | ★ Squawk | 18m, 3 | |||||
Think I can send this and gobble now. Just need to find a belayer
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Wed 17th Aug 2022 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
22 | ★ Squawk | 18m, 3 | |||||
Awesome route, thanks for rebolting this Kyle Addy!
Can’t wait to find the beta that makes it 20/21 Big struggle on transition from face climbing to laybacking |
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Tue 16th Aug 2022 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★ Gobble - with Lia Sullivan | 18m, 5 | |||||
Mon 15th Aug 2022 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★ Gobble | 18m, 5 | |||||
Microcender + microtrax
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22 | ★★ Gobble | 18m, 5 | |||||
Microcender + microtrax
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22 | ★★ Gobble | 18m, 5 | |||||
Grigri and backup knots
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Wed 3rd Aug 2022 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
18 | ★ Pterodactyl | 17m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Exercise
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18 | ★ Pterodactyl | 17m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wow so chill…..
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Tue 2nd Aug 2022 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Left Main Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★ Prickles | 18m, 7 | |||||
21 | ★★ Prickles | 18m, 7 | |||||
21 | ★★ Prickles | 18m, 7 | |||||
Fri 22nd Jul 2022 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
22 | ★ Hanger Wall Arete | 18m, 6 | |||||
22 | ★ Hanger Wall Arete | 18m, 6 | |||||
22 | ★ Hanger Wall Arete | 18m, 6 | |||||
Sun 17th Jul 2022 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Left Main Wall | |||||||
14 | ★ Stephen's Eyeful Tower | 18m, 4 | Average | ||||
Nearly passed out after not eating
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15 | ★ Bottle Stopper | 18m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
17 | ★ Slow Cure | 18m, 6 | Average | ||||
16 | ★ Standing Room Only | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 16th Jul 2022 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Moonlight Fantasia | 18m, 1 | |||||
19 | ★★ Moonlight Fantasia | 18m, 1 | |||||
19 | ★★ Moonlight Fantasia | 18m, 1 |
As for the route, found it absolutely nails. The layback crux was brutal, and I think even without midday sun and shit condies I’d have had a nightmare on it. Ended up aiding through it, couldn’t get any purchase at all on the slick rock w my dirty shoes.