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Fixed Gear: Another Faustian Dilemma

Carrot bolts have been removed, pending an upgrade.

Still OK to TR.

See warning details and discuss

Created 11 days ago

Fixed Gear: The Rasp/Exterminator

Old carrots have been removed, pending an upgrade.

Still OK to TR.

See warning details and discuss

Created 11 days ago

description

Start 1m R of usual 'Euthanasia' start.

WARNING: potential for a big groundfall before reaching the 2nd bolt. Straight up to roof, reach left and clip 1st BR on 'Euthanasia'. Then over roof and on to arete. Rejoin 'Euthanasia' at its 3rd BR. Also, there is a large loose, wobbly block in the bulgy crux section. Beware.

Route history

1980First free ascent: Unknown

Late 1980s

Warnings

5 May 2024 Warning Fixed Gear: Another Faustian Dilemma
5 May 2024 Warning Fixed Gear: The Rasp/Exterminator

Location

Lat/Lon: -27.48001, 153.03345

Grade citation

22 R Assigned grade
19 David McAuslan
21 [21 - 22] -- grAId
22 R DomL
22 Kangaroo Point
22 Kangaroo Point Climbing Guide

ethic

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

  • All top roping should be done through your own quickdraws to minimize wear on the anchors.
  • Don't ever chip holds.
  • Don't paint on any new initials.
  • Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.
inherited from Kangaroo Point

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 51 from 21 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 1
Red point 2
Tick 14
Top rope 2
Pink point 1
Attempt 13

Comment keywords

mantle cruisy face arete roof dodgy cool tough fall

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Wed 17 May
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