Ascents in Euglah Rock

Would be classic if it wasn't Kaputar rock. Great varied climbing

Stick clip as the first two bolts are surrounded by choss.

Again a bit dirty, but really nice climbing

Great moves

Despite the name, it's not very stiff for the grade.

Did this with a trail rope and double trad rack. Was trying to get into primal scream, but didn't quite work.

A pleasant surprise. Good moves, a bit grotty down low.

The crack in the middle is very nice. The start is a retro bolt of BGUTI, the finishing arête is tricky with no wear or chalk for clues

The bolts are nice, finished on BOTW anchors with a #3 cam and 0.75 cam for traverse

Scared most of the way.

Pitch one only, to get into Steel Dance. Crappy rock low and dicey pro.

Stellar technical stemming on the bottom half with thin, spaced and tricky to place gear (but not quite bad enough to be properly dangerous). Goes easier than it looks, and the hardest moves are on reasonable gear. Would be a borderline classic if you rap off at the top of the pillar (using The Orgasmotron 's anchors) rather than doing the loose off-width top half. If doing the top, bring BIG cams... I didn't, and it was a scary 12m runout.

All these ticks from 2012 seem to have not been logged

Ok for offwidth

Stout warm up. Take small cams. Good direct start to primal scream

Another great not over bolted Barley classic. Gear to #3. Hard start.

Pretty dull.

Do yourself and belayer a favour and aid the choss at the start to enjoy this route as the climbing is good above. Quite spicy bolting, interesting fin feature

Pick of the day for me, can't go past a good arete! Lovely moves on good edges

Alzheimer's Onsight! I had no idea I'd ever been on this route before (seconding Neil years ago).

Pleasant low-angle arete-climbing with spaced bolts, and no pronounced crux. The lack of an anchor to get back down (or even easily rap off) is annoying.

With Dude

Quite enjoyable, good gear options and interesting moves

Yay, face climbing on gear

would be better with more traffic. Hard move off ledge through roof.

Really good. Kind of reminds me of a harder version of Clandestiny over at The Governor. Amazing face holds appear every time the climbing gets hard, but there are intriguing sequences all the way up. Gear is spaced, but generally quite good.

Definitely needs trad, no wonder steve felt it was goey! Everything a Kaputar route should be, not over bolted, trad placements left without bolts and not impinging on existing lines. Thanks Robin.

Led both pitches linked. Thoughtful and careful climbing needed, but not too bad after the first 8 metres. Couldn't find any nearby chains ( it was raining by this time) so abseiled over Burning Spear. Took double rack and 14 draws.

bit of a runout start up the slab, but became better protected after that.

some decent jamming moves throughout the crux.

descend off the most rusted anchor i have seen to date. should probably be retired some time soon.

Definitely going to take a bit of time to get used to the style of pro at Kaputar. Spent ages hanging around trying to get in the many small wires throughout the route. Thankfully there are plenty of good stances to hang around placing gear.

with Dude and MickyB

Nice corner moves

About 6 metres of nice climbing up twin cracks. Take a big cam if you dont want an 8m run out like me.

Other than the tree... Which is rotting... A pretty fun little meander.

Not sure how this one escaped. Ground up, no preinspection, some shot put mid climb , but generally good rock, thankfully good small gear and a nice airy line