Routes in Euglah Rock

At the Southeast corner of the cliff just before the cliffline turns abruptly westward along the back of the formation.

Start: 30m left of altered states at a steep black corner near a small cave. A little dirty at the bottom but well worth doing for the second pitch.

1. 12m. Up corner moving slightly left to pass overlap.

2. 30m. Take the crack through bulge and up to top.

1. (Crux) Crack 2m L of Conspircy to bulge, then bridge widely to ledge.

2. 10m hand crack.

Up crack 2m L of Traitor, through small roof to ledge. Move R into Traitor and up.

Start Marked. Up crack 2m L of Cracked Actor taking R brnch up high.

'Crack, baby, crack, show me you're real' Off-width 1m L of Cracking Up. Through overhang to cave and up.

'I don't think it's funny no more' Marked. Strenuous off-width 5m L of Wood n' Leap.

Upgraded from a 14 after a rock slide. Loose rock remains. Just right of SE arete. Marked. Climb behind (13) or up (16) L of off-width chimney, or bridge up on R. Continue over loose boulders.

Initialled. Crack line 2m R of WL. Through overhanging chimney.

1. Up staircse 10m down L from The Great Mooka to bulge. R and up to small watercourse and up to ledge.

2. 10m. L under overhang into chimney and up.

Abseil off trees back from edge but take care with rope length.

Start 20m L of Insidious at cairned block. On to ledge, then L to corner with loose blocks. Corner, off-width crack up to cypress.

Start at left end of pile of boulders 4m left of Insidious.

1. Up rounded channel then broken cracks and groove tending right.

3m L of Insidious. Middle of slab, then thin crack. From Bulge, head diagonally R into Insidious and finish.

Has acquired a reputation among climbers at this grade, and the 3 stars in the Colyvan guide is very over-rated.

Start marked. 4m to the left of WITW Up black slab following a vague weakness rightwards on very sparse protection until 8 m, then veer right up corner to ledge and take deep bottoming crackline, shared with WITW to top. Trad belay. Abseil from this area best over Burning Spear.

Initialed. Crack-line 6m R of Insidious, L of 'baboon's head'. Through overhang, up crack to tree'd ledge, then bridge up as for Insidious.

Up the twin cracks to large ledge with shrubs then up the second cliff line via any number of options.

Start: 10m left of 'Lost World Layback'. Faintly Initialed

Corner crack 2m L of Lost World Layback, which it joins at half-height to finish.

Initialled. At top of short ramp above burnt tree stump.

Tricky crack for 5m, then R trending gully. Finish up Lost Layback Crack on L.

Initialed. Crack on bulging wall 3m R of LWL.

Up to sloping ledge, then slight recess. Through bulge, up steep crack crack to ledge, then pleasant corner to finish.

Crack R of RM to big ledge. Wall on L.

2m R of ONB. Up and over large, wedge-shaped block.

Climb broken rock resting against cliff 2m R of the block that Harlequin starts on to the start of the route. Up Black groove to chain belay

Up just L of Devilled Sloth for 5m to sloping ledge. L into crack and up to ledge beneath bulge. Up crack in bulge and follow it up arete.

From the top of large block go up ramp to a slabby left hand corner ( poor pro) to ledge then continue up corner passing eucalyptus tree growing at half height)

2 m R of DS, up slab and groove to just left of tree on ledge. Up corner below triangular roof, stepping right and up corner system to trad belay on top.

Start 5m left of Burning Spear, around the corner. Climb crack and face past suspended rectangular block and up to ledge. Continue up crack in the face directly behind. Trad belay.

Start 15m left of cave where track meets cliff, up unprotected slab into right facing corner that continues into handcrack. New anchor 2023. A carrot protects stepping down to anchor. A good spot to abseil from on this side of the crag.

Up slab to seam/crack on wall above.

Start as for Wasted Years, initialled. Then up grey arête to the left of that route. Awful rock past the first 2 bolts that improves with height. Finished at chain belay in crack to the left of arête.

Initialed. Up slabby block to move around nose right into the line running up left of overhang, 2 m R of BS

Right of WY, start off boulder, done originally pulling on aid bolt to overcome undercut buttress. Step left and up wall direct. Was 21 M0, now free. Chain belay with single carabiner.

Into orange bay, turning roof on right past bolt, then finish as for MB to right to chains.

Start just left of cave where track meets cliff. Up line of bolts heading left then up groove to chain anchors as for BO.

Start: Six metres right of Steel Dance pitch 2. A crack which splits a rib or shallow arete.

1. Just right of cave, move up avoiding a small overhang on its right. Continue up line to platform, then up crack through rib.

The bolted face left of Freudian Slip.

1. 30m (23) Climb orange wall on good in-cuts past an area of friable rock (was done at 21 with 2 aid bolts) and go up left on grey rock to belay ledge and rap chains. This is a sport pitch.

2. 20m (19) Step right into Freudian Slip and follow main crack then left groove at top to chains. Trad gear to 2”.

A dominating corner. Starts below first full length crack-line right of sun deck cave. Initialed.

1. 34m (20) Up easily to ledge and FH at base of corner. Tricky start stemming up chossy rock (random dodgy rivet bolt) then steep sustained corner crack to hanging trad belay where it slabs off. Alternatively step left onto ledge and belay on bolts. This pitch has a lot of hollow sounding rock - take care.

2. 18m (20) Continue up excellent handcrack corner, finishing up the right of two cracks with steep pumpy finale. Belay off rap chain to the left.

Start just left of start for PS and GOW at small roof, following bolts to its left. Up into crack as for GOW for 10 m then follow more bolts left to belay on arête. There is another climb above this. Makes a well protected start for GOW.

Apparently bolted but never climbed by Peter Wehr. Now readily accessed by Climbing AIDL, making a great second pitch, or rap in off bolts above GOW.

Up the wall left of PS. The start has a little gear down low then is unprotected until you gain the crack. An alternate start that is still run out can be done via the first 3 bolts of Drongoland to the left. Continue up crack to twin cracks up high. Double ropes useful. Abseil chains on ledge above.

Initialed. The middle of the 3 striking corners. Originally started as for GOW, moving right into corner up ramp ( poorly protected)'. Alternate starts can be done via Bonzerland or Drongoland to ledge. Pitch 2 up twin cracks in corner to exit left around roof.

The red groove leading direct to the Primal Scream crack. Either continue up PS or head right to balcony anchors on the arete

P1 20 m 23 As for Aslan pitch 1, belay on ledge. P2 25 m 24. Start Aslan pitch 2 but exit stemming box on left and take crack to left of Aslan corner.

1. 25m (23) Up crack starting 2m left of fig growing in corner, under steep hanging corner in the next bay right of primal scream. Climb to ledge at half height.

2. 25m (26) continue up corner through roof to stemming corner. Small cams and RPs essential

Start left of 'Kelvinator' at an incipient crack which runs up the centre of a subsidiary buttress. Initialled.

1. 30m. Up crack (difficult to start) to below a steep corner. Near its top traverse right onto the arete and up to easier ground. Continue up and left to large ledge. Belay below large corner and wall crack.

2. 30m (crux) up corner to where it steepens and it is possible to traverse left past wedged block, then up through overlap to top.

Right of Taking Liberties where the path passes below an orange grooved buttress. This is just before the terrace appears up high. P1 Climb left line up black groove to small triangular roof with a bolt visible at 6 m. Follow 3 bolts up friable rock until into chimney. Continue up corner to Ledge and bolt belay on right. P2 follow all gear groove to chains at summit ( may be difficult to locate)

All bolts to chains though a rack to # 4 will help. P1 Up friable rock to main groove, up this for a few moves then follow bolts left to arête and ledge belay as for STTBL. P2 follow arête then move right around large block to finish up overhanging crack. Trad and tree belay. Very chossy. The name gives it away. Beware.

Mainly gear to tree at top. Start 5m left of Living in Sin, and climb up square recess past 2 bolts, pull out left and follow gear crack to ledge. Easier rock to top.

Start at Unhinged and go up right past a couple of bolts to a vertical wall that takes good gear. Rappel chains down L.I.S.

Bolts to gear to chains. 2m right of LIS, climb friable orange pockets, cross right to bottomless crack and climb on good gear.

Start as for Rotten Scoundrel, 2m R of LIS, climb over loose roof, into orange groove then head right to ledge, then straight up superb wall to anchor. Rest taken on final bolt on FA

10m right of LIS, climb crumbly rock to excellent overhanging corner and shared chains. Accidentally retro bolted by Barley, who then discovered it had been climbed by Carrigan in 1997, and some bolts were removed. Studs with nuts are remnant.

Undercut start just left of trimmed dead tree which marks Inconsequential. Steeply up to climb arête, sharing bolts and anchors with Inconsequential

A leftward rising traverse. Start up tree as for Inconsequential. After 4 th bolt on I cross to arête, across EE, traverse left around arête into corner ( GG) and continue left across face past 2 more bolts to next arête, then up to chain anchor. a #2 and 0.75 cam and extendable runners help. Abseil 20 m to ground or continue to top, joining Pitch 2 of IBE be a short corner at grade 12, gear to #3.

Start by climbing dead trimmed tree leaning against cliff then step left to bolt and up face and arête

Starts just R of the pruned dead tree at the start of I. Faintly marked. Up trending slightly left over stacked blocks into L facing corner.( crux) At ledge with bushes step L to belay. (20m). P 2 Avoid blind crack on R by continuing left up easy angled crack.

An alternative second pitch to IBE, instead of heading left from the belay ledge stay right and go up the fused corner. There is some gear.

Corner 1m R of IBE. Mounts pedestal at half height. 3 rusty BRs and a fixed wire. Trad belay

Start as for DF but step right to arête. Continue up black face past many bolts before veering right to arête at top. Chains.

Great sustained climbing up arête and face to right, but poorly protected with minimal worthwhile gear between the BR until the last 10 metres. However it was originally climbed with only 3 BR and TheFA does not wish the route to be retro bolted. Start right of arête to first BR, then up to arête at roof. Follow arête before moving back right to face and corner , the follow corner until you can step left into another crack that leads to chain anchor shared with EOE

Starts 2m L of BT, up the centre of the wall through a V notch in the low roof following intermittent crack. There is one BR just below this roof, and another just below the high bulge. Chain belay on ledge just below top.

An imposing black corner with BT clearly initialled at start. Described as a serious lead in the Colyvan guide. Trad belay.

Start 2m R of the arête right of BT. Follows right trending groove into centre of wall, onto a pillar ( stacked blocks) to ledge and then up short right facing corner to top. 3 expansion BR. Friable rock.

Choss to roof using dead tree as for TOTT. The climbing then rapidly improves. Instead of stepping right continue straight up line on small but excellent gear. Surmount flake and continue up hand crack, stepping left to exit at top, as for final corner of DS.

Start 5 m right of BT where 3 dead pines are on the track to the left of a low roof. Up 8 m then step right into wider crack and up

Bolts and some gear to chains. Up yellow wall past bolts and crack as for BGUTI to ledge at 10m. Step left and follow crack in arête (gear) to big ledge and up right side of arête on bolts. Full rack to # 3

Direct start to Swiss made, the high V corner. Start up steep crack, start now partly retro bolted by CTDB

Start as for Y but step left after a few metres and into prominent V corner up higher

Start up Y but at 1/3 height step left into hanging corner. And continue up the line.

Bridge your way up the black corner. The start is marked with 'Y'. Trad belay.

The arête 2m R of Y. Spaced and fiddly protection

Two climbs to the right of 'Yummikins', on dark coloured rock. Climb the obvious crack in the centre of the wall. 'Steep' featured rock, with good gear. Trad belay.

Outstanding left-facing corner with fantastic trad gear the whole way. Crux is around the little bulge about a third of the way up.

The excellent bolted arete right of Juicy Rumors. This is NOT a sport route - you will need a finger crack cam on the 1/3rd ledge and a 0.75 camalot for the runout to the top. There is no dedicated rap anchor - finish rightwards to rap off chain above Bridge Over Troubled Waters.

Shallow seam/crack just right of the bolted arete. Gear is sparse down low but improves up high. Rap chain on the right at the top. This is not a 3 star route.

A scarier version of Clampdown. From ledge after shared start take the R seam that leads into BOTW

Initialled, with a large block sitting against cliff at start. Large fig at half height. Abseil chains at top.

1. Straight up the line. Good pro and plenty of variety.

A variant finish to A&G. Do pitch 1 then take arête at LH end of ledge with difficult moves through final bulge

An exciting and bold arete 4m R of BOTW.

1. 18m (18) Traverse into the start from the ledge on the right (climbing direct up the crumbling dirt not recommended!). Climb through the bulge on hollow sounding rock (poor gear) to stance and horizontal crack (good cams). Now commit to the gritstone like daunting arete above on small edges to eventual bomber wire and jug. Clean undies and continue up seam to large ledge below corner. Medium cam belay.

2. 17m (17) Continue up double crack corner above past wide flake (loose rock) to trad belay.

The RP seam crack at the crux provides some real mental stimulation. One of the best wall routes at Kaputar, with a real Moonarie feel in the lower-half. Starts 2m left of Malice Through the Looking Glass. Climb flakes for 10m to seam. Fill it with as many tiny wires as you can then launch boldy up face on good holds to better protection. Finish up quality handcrack to trad belay.

Initialed. The fused corner 10 metres right of Bridge Over Troubled Waters. Excellent technical stemming (and spaced fiddly gear) to halfway ledge - then easier wide crack climbing above (large cams very useful).

Immediately r of MTLG, climb bolted arête and face above in 2 pitches. Second pitch has red painted bolts

Up groove, poor rock, 3 m to the right of MTLG. Head into finger crack after overhang at 6 m. Up block and corner to ledge then shared finish with BFI

Climb the arête right of Orgasmatron on bolts to chains up an interesting fin up high. The first 6 m are breccia/ choss so to avoid killing belayer stick clip second FH and aid your way through to the start of decent rock. This route is quite run out through easy bits, a light rack including wires can be useful. The route finishes at the top of a pillar, not the top of the cliff.

Start 2 m L of before the Flood at crack through bulge. A tree originally assisted start. Up crack to ledge then thin twin cracks to another ledge. Pitch 2 10m offwidth in corner