Routes as trad in Euglah Rock

Gear to bolts and chains shared with P. start behind eucalypt just right of block and up wide crack

Gear to chains up left side of face

On south face, 2m left of IT starting at ground. Climb brown groove then up left side of pillar into rounded hand crack. Bolts and gear to #4.

Initialed

Originally initialled - may still be visible. At righthand end of terrace, right from where track meets wall.

1. From block up wall to mantleshelf on right, then into corner and up. Abseil over AT possible.

The direct start to the crack of Pink Slip. Step off block up face past 3 bolts then into thin crack

Climb FF for pitch 1 to ledge. from here up corner for a few moves then R to a jug at base of seam, and up on good runners

Step off block left of revival ( under pink slip DS). Go L to base of flake and up to ledge. Continue up corner crack. Abseil chains to right at top.

An excellent crack requiring # 4 cam. Start up FF for first pitch but from belay step left from corner into crack line

The steep start up fused line in black wall 2m L of FF. runner in roof at 6 m. Follow crack through roof and finish up Fifteen Percent

MIXED route. FHs to chains with one small wire needed. Climb yellow crumbly face past bolts then left through roof and over grey rock (wire) to ledge. Small wire and finger sized cams useful to supplement last bolt which has a sleeve sticking out 1 cm.Chain belay. Start 4 m L of revival block and just to left of 15% direct start.

Start up ring bolt route, step right to FH then right into hanging v groove. Up this to top, staying right at top of v groove

Start as for a spot of necrosis but after the v groove stay left with small gear before steep but juggy exit and abseil as for wrongdoer.

2m right of the Vice. And left of ring bolt route. Follow vague groove up yellow rock past FHs then left through bulge to ledge, pass final bolt and climb gear crack to top.

Originally done up no longer existent log at grade 19. Wire protection, and clipping adjacent bolt protect start. Through overhang and up steep crack to ledge then easier to top

Start in groove as for the vice but follow bolts left around roof, to arête and up. Appears to be a mixed route and possibly join with Lusty Lunge. This may be LUnge not and need deleting, no other RB routes recorded here.

Start 2 m r of BOT and take central line up wall. Gear to #3 including small gear needed. Pass 2 bolts on conglomerate then face climbing on good quality rock into final crack. Chain belay

Starts as for Blood on Tracks then up and R to seam on wall. 2 BRs through steep bulge on good jugs

This is where the track meets the terrace. Tricky moves up vague corner 2 m r of BF. Take right crack line where the 2 converge, the left crack is Isis. Into deep crack and up

Start as for BOT but takes the left hand crack. Bridging back into BOT is required until crack reopens.

Start as for Blood on tracks for 8 m ( gear) then step left to gain arête. Climb arête to chains. Further gear to #3 helps supplement the bolts

Crack line. ( initialled). Bridge over small roof and up to treed ledge. Up twin cracks.

Start 2 m L of before the Flood at crack through bulge. A tree originally assisted start. Up crack to ledge then thin twin cracks to another ledge. Pitch 2 10m offwidth in corner

Up groove, poor rock, 3 m to the right of MTLG. Head into finger crack after overhang at 6 m. Up block and corner to ledge then shared finish with BFI

Initialed. The fused corner 10 metres right of Bridge Over Troubled Waters. Excellent technical stemming (and spaced fiddly gear) to halfway ledge - then easier wide crack climbing above (large cams very useful).

The RP seam crack at the crux provides some real mental stimulation. One of the best wall routes at Kaputar, with a real Moonarie feel in the lower-half. Starts 2m left of Malice Through the Looking Glass. Climb flakes for 10m to seam. Fill it with as many tiny wires as you can then launch boldy up face on good holds to better protection. Finish up quality handcrack to trad belay.

An exciting and bold arete 4m R of BOTW.

1. 18m (18) Traverse into the start from the ledge on the right (climbing direct up the crumbling dirt not recommended!). Climb through the bulge on hollow sounding rock (poor gear) to stance and horizontal crack (good cams). Now commit to the gritstone like daunting arete above on small edges to eventual bomber wire and jug. Clean undies and continue up seam to large ledge below corner. Medium cam belay.

2. 17m (17) Continue up double crack corner above past wide flake (loose rock) to trad belay.

A variant finish to A&G. Do pitch 1 then take arête at LH end of ledge with difficult moves through final bulge

Initialled, with a large block sitting against cliff at start. Large fig at half height. Abseil chains at top.

1. Straight up the line. Good pro and plenty of variety.

A scarier version of Clampdown. From ledge after shared start take the R seam that leads into BOTW

Shallow seam/crack just right of the bolted arete. Gear is sparse down low but improves up high. Rap chain on the right at the top. This is not a 3 star route.

The excellent bolted arete right of Juicy Rumors. This is NOT a sport route - you will need a finger crack cam on the 1/3rd ledge and a 0.75 camalot for the runout to the top. There is no dedicated rap anchor - finish rightwards to rap off chain above Bridge Over Troubled Waters.

Outstanding left-facing corner with fantastic trad gear the whole way. Crux is around the little bulge about a third of the way up.

Two climbs to the right of 'Yummikins', on dark coloured rock. Climb the obvious crack in the centre of the wall. 'Steep' featured rock, with good gear. Trad belay.

The arête 2m R of Y. Spaced and fiddly protection

Bridge your way up the black corner. The start is marked with 'Y'. Trad belay.

Start up Y but at 1/3 height step left into hanging corner. And continue up the line.

Start as for Y but step left after a few metres and into prominent V corner up higher

Direct start to Swiss made, the high V corner. Start up steep crack, start now partly retro bolted by CTDB

Bolts and some gear to chains. Up yellow wall past bolts and crack as for BGUTI to ledge at 10m. Step left and follow crack in arête (gear) to big ledge and up right side of arête on bolts. Full rack to # 3

Start 5 m right of BT where 3 dead pines are on the track to the left of a low roof. Up 8 m then step right into wider crack and up

Choss to roof using dead tree as for TOTT. The climbing then rapidly improves. Instead of stepping right continue straight up line on small but excellent gear. Surmount flake and continue up hand crack, stepping left to exit at top, as for final corner of DS.

Start 2m R of the arête right of BT. Follows right trending groove into centre of wall, onto a pillar ( stacked blocks) to ledge and then up short right facing corner to top. 3 expansion BR. Friable rock.

An imposing black corner with BT clearly initialled at start. Described as a serious lead in the Colyvan guide. Trad belay.

Starts 2m L of BT, up the centre of the wall through a V notch in the low roof following intermittent crack. There is one BR just below this roof, and another just below the high bulge. Chain belay on ledge just below top.

Great sustained climbing up arête and face to right, but poorly protected with minimal worthwhile gear between the BR until the last 10 metres. However it was originally climbed with only 3 BR and TheFA does not wish the route to be retro bolted. Start right of arête to first BR, then up to arête at roof. Follow arête before moving back right to face and corner , the follow corner until you can step left into another crack that leads to chain anchor shared with EOE

Corner 1m R of IBE. Mounts pedestal at half height. 3 rusty BRs and a fixed wire. Trad belay

An alternative second pitch to IBE, instead of heading left from the belay ledge stay right and go up the fused corner. There is some gear.

Starts just R of the pruned dead tree at the start of I. Faintly marked. Up trending slightly left over stacked blocks into L facing corner.( crux) At ledge with bushes step L to belay. (20m). P 2 Avoid blind crack on R by continuing left up easy angled crack.

A leftward rising traverse. Start up tree as for Inconsequential. After 4 th bolt on I cross to arête, across EE, traverse left around arête into corner ( GG) and continue left across face past 2 more bolts to next arête, then up to chain anchor. a #2 and 0.75 cam and extendable runners help. Abseil 20 m to ground or continue to top, joining Pitch 2 of IBE be a short corner at grade 12, gear to #3.

10m right of LIS, climb crumbly rock to excellent overhanging corner and shared chains. Accidentally retro bolted by Barley, who then discovered it had been climbed by Carrigan in 1997, and some bolts were removed. Studs with nuts are remnant.

Bolts to gear to chains. 2m right of LIS, climb friable orange pockets, cross right to bottomless crack and climb on good gear.

Start at Unhinged and go up right past a couple of bolts to a vertical wall that takes good gear. Rappel chains down L.I.S.

Mainly gear to tree at top. Start 5m left of Living in Sin, and climb up square recess past 2 bolts, pull out left and follow gear crack to ledge. Easier rock to top.

Right of Taking Liberties where the path passes below an orange grooved buttress. This is just before the terrace appears up high. P1 Climb left line up black groove to small triangular roof with a bolt visible at 6 m. Follow 3 bolts up friable rock until into chimney. Continue up corner to Ledge and bolt belay on right. P2 follow all gear groove to chains at summit ( may be difficult to locate)

Start left of 'Kelvinator' at an incipient crack which runs up the centre of a subsidiary buttress. Initialled.

1. 30m. Up crack (difficult to start) to below a steep corner. Near its top traverse right onto the arete and up to easier ground. Continue up and left to large ledge. Belay below large corner and wall crack.

2. 30m (crux) up corner to where it steepens and it is possible to traverse left past wedged block, then up through overlap to top.

1. 25m (23) Up crack starting 2m left of fig growing in corner, under steep hanging corner in the next bay right of primal scream. Climb to ledge at half height.

2. 25m (26) continue up corner through roof to stemming corner. Small cams and RPs essential

P1 20 m 23 As for Aslan pitch 1, belay on ledge. P2 25 m 24. Start Aslan pitch 2 but exit stemming box on left and take crack to left of Aslan corner.

The red groove leading direct to the Primal Scream crack. Either continue up PS or head right to balcony anchors on the arete

Initialed. The middle of the 3 striking corners. Originally started as for GOW, moving right into corner up ramp ( poorly protected)'. Alternate starts can be done via Bonzerland or Drongoland to ledge. Pitch 2 up twin cracks in corner to exit left around roof.

Up the wall left of PS. The start has a little gear down low then is unprotected until you gain the crack. An alternate start that is still run out can be done via the first 3 bolts of Drongoland to the left. Continue up crack to twin cracks up high. Double ropes useful. Abseil chains on ledge above.

Start just left of start for PS and GOW at small roof, following bolts to its left. Up into crack as for GOW for 10 m then follow more bolts left to belay on arête. There is another climb above this. Makes a well protected start for GOW.

A dominating corner. Starts below first full length crack-line right of sun deck cave. Initialed.

1. 34m (20) Up easily to ledge and FH at base of corner. Tricky start stemming up chossy rock (random dodgy rivet bolt) then steep sustained corner crack to hanging trad belay where it slabs off. Alternatively step left onto ledge and belay on bolts. This pitch has a lot of hollow sounding rock - take care.

2. 18m (20) Continue up excellent handcrack corner, finishing up the right of two cracks with steep pumpy finale. Belay off rap chain to the left.

Start: Six metres right of Steel Dance pitch 2. A crack which splits a rib or shallow arete.

1. Just right of cave, move up avoiding a small overhang on its right. Continue up line to platform, then up crack through rib.

Into orange bay, turning roof on right past bolt, then finish as for MB to right to chains.

Initialed. Up slabby block to move around nose right into the line running up left of overhang, 2 m R of BS

Up slab to seam/crack on wall above.

Start 15m left of cave where track meets cliff, up unprotected slab into right facing corner that continues into handcrack. New anchor 2023. A carrot protects stepping down to anchor. A good spot to abseil from on this side of the crag.

Start 5m left of Burning Spear, around the corner. Climb crack and face past suspended rectangular block and up to ledge. Continue up crack in the face directly behind. Trad belay.

2 m R of DS, up slab and groove to just left of tree on ledge. Up corner below triangular roof, stepping right and up corner system to trad belay on top.

From the top of large block go up ramp to a slabby left hand corner ( poor pro) to ledge then continue up corner passing eucalyptus tree growing at half height)

Up just L of Devilled Sloth for 5m to sloping ledge. L into crack and up to ledge beneath bulge. Up crack in bulge and follow it up arete.

2m R of ONB. Up and over large, wedge-shaped block.

Crack R of RM to big ledge. Wall on L.

Initialed. Crack on bulging wall 3m R of LWL.

Up to sloping ledge, then slight recess. Through bulge, up steep crack crack to ledge, then pleasant corner to finish.

Initialled. At top of short ramp above burnt tree stump.

Tricky crack for 5m, then R trending gully. Finish up Lost Layback Crack on L.

Corner crack 2m L of Lost World Layback, which it joins at half-height to finish.

Up the twin cracks to large ledge with shrubs then up the second cliff line via any number of options.

Start: 10m left of 'Lost World Layback'. Faintly Initialed