★★ The Spearhead 20

Climb through overhanging blocks, then trend right following diagonal flake, before tricky mantle move to gain arete ledge. Finish up arete. No gear in the second half of the route.

Alteratively, stem over to chimney, then to top. Watch your rope on the arete.

The style at Maidenwell to date has been traditional climbing. Bolt placements are belay anchors only, and these are stainless expansion bolts with fixed hangers. There is some potential for bolting the listed routes and new routes. I hope that sanity and logic prevail in endeavours of this kind. Bear in mind that overt bolting may impact on access here. Time will tell. Always give due regard to rock fall and work to reduce its incidence, as there may still be some loose rock on the listed climbs. The waterhole and picnic area have regular visitors on weekends, so be conscious of anyone in your climbing vicinity. Once the obvious loose rock is removed, the surface is very reliable.