Routes in Copper Rocks

Amazing problem starting on large rail and work your way up the dong

(Not sure if this has been done before? But if not its worthy of a claim..) Enter the Chasm and find the slight left tending crack for squat start. Move left to good match, then directly up to top out. Step back if in trouble!

squat start on low left leaning crack, then follow obvious line up and right to top. (dunno if this has previously been climbed? let me know if so )

Start as for 'Finding Max', but eliminate the holds out right and instead take the line directly up the seam. Nails hard.

SDS on good hold, long move up to gain the crimp-plate. Climb the left hand side of the boulder with awesome stretched out compression moves. Stick left for the send. Easier the taller you are.

Andy

Robin Y

Start as 'Finding Max', but once you gain the right hand in the sharp jug up high drop down to finish as 'Lock It Down' instead of following the crack on the left. https://youtu.be/OJLEjkm5UdI

Start as ‘Lock It Down’ then throw out left from the jug and finish as for ‘Finding Max’. Cool.

SDS on low holds and head straight up the middle of the boulder with fun compression sequence into thin crux on two flat crimps up high. Using the holds at the start of Kimbo will earn you a downgrade.

Tyrone C Julz

SDS on the bottom right hand corner of the boulder, up the right and into the scoop - committing top out.

Mitch W

Sit start and up the slab.

Scoot all the way down to the massive hueco, Start with kneebar and hands on the hueco, up to the jug then top out on crimps. First move is hard, no room for a pad.

Sit start on the right perched on the raised rock. Traverse left on the jugs...you might as well go all the way left then top out.

Sit start, then straight up.

Sit start, then up the crack.

Start as 'The Obvious' but exit straight up.

start on low SDS dodgy flake. (Don't break this!) pop up to gain the diagonal feature and follow up right to top out.

Sit start with left heel hook on large flake, and right hand on undercling. Hard first move to nasty left hand sloper. Top out as per 'Drop it Like it's Hot'.

5:23 at Robin Y

Classic lowball. Sit start with good slot right down low as for 'Heuco at Home'. Climb up, and trend left (avoid good jugs of 'Heuco at Home'). Establish on small right-hand crimp, followed by a big drop knee move to reach the far-away left hand crimp. Hold the tension and try top out!

Robin Y

Sit start low on the slot down low (as low as you can go), climb up through crimps to Hueco flake and top out on The Bear. Eliminating the flake will get you a V7

A contrived eliminate with one of the sweetest sequences ever. Really awesome if done with the mindset of climbing the eliminate. Sit start left hand on the far left edge, right hand in the horizontal slot near the massive starting rail of The Bear. Trend left using the smaller side-pulls and powerful right heel hooks on the jugs of The Bear /Variant. Flows like sick.

Andy Robin Y

Start as 'The Sweetest Contrivances' then traverse left through the overhang to link into 'Drop It Like It's Hot'. Pumpy and hard. https://youtu.be/pwsiUx_U2mg?t=126

Great eliminate problem starting jugs, up left to top, avoiding good holds up to the right.

Andy

SDS on good jugs, climb up to good seam then traverse left to crux and juggy top out.

Mitch W

Sit start on flat jug. Up and right to join 'Dunsborough Breakery'

Continue left from Dunsborough Breakery into The Bear.

Follow crack up and top

Start really low feet and Microcrimps on the face (Sharp left and slopeyish right) Bust up right to the good crimp rail and prepare for the cut loose. Traverse left on crimps. Hard!

SDS Letterbox hold, (using top right pinch of letterbox drops a grade) Move left onto huge sloper and continue left along low crimp rail. Avoid Jugs and pinches of hashtag crimes.

Sit start on the obvious slash at the bottom left corner and head straight up and left, avoiding the scoops of Pebbles. There are a few ways of doing it.

Start at left scoop, move up through a series of scoops and top out at the peak of the boulder.

Start at left scoop and move right through series of scoopers before top out. Watch out for the swooping sparrows!

Starting with feet up high, pull off slopey undercling / side pull and throw over lip to scoop and choose your own adventure to top out

Start low on slopey holds. Up into slopey fins in the roof and out as for 'Pebbles Variant'. Tensiony transitioning into 'Pebbles Variant' and blasting to the jugs. V10/11?

Start on slopey pinches with feet low, then bust out to the lip while holding the banana-hammock. Starting with feet high earns you Pebbles Variant.

Andy

Start low on the slopers; shoulder up to Roof and finish as for Roof. Hard...but not that inspiring to look at.

Sit start on big scoops in cave (same as 'Unknown') and head out to finish on the end of "Bimco’s Been Robbed".

Start super low on obvious juggy holds and traverse the low lip left and finish as for 'Roof'.

Eliminate. Start down and left of Man Status start with good left crimp edge, then up on small crimps and thumb catches. Eliminate the start hold and the horizontal jugs of Man Status. Rad Sequence. Hard!

Direct line from juggy rail to top

Start on juggy rail (or all the way from the left for to make it harder) and head right out and out of cave to top out on jugs

Traverse along the edge on slopers

Start as 'Man Status Link Up' and link into 'Dyno Friend'/'Dyno Friend Variant'. Avoid the jugs on the left and go from the crimps directly around the underside of the boulder to gain the break of 'Bimco's Been Robbed'. Turns the Dyno into an epic!

https://youtu.be/X0Bq22MDj7E

using the jugs on the left to come out of the cave then to the seam nets you V7/8

Sweet dyno from the break to sloper before top

Bigger dyno from break to better edge on right before top out

Easier variant if you head direct to scoop and top out left.

https://vimeo.com/112038995 @5:59

Sit start on slopey crimps and bump up to slopey dishes before heading up to scoop and top out, avoiding the left exit.

Ashley T

Start on the right undercling and work your way up through the pinches and slopers keeping right heading towards the jug. Sticking left near the crack earns you a VB. Mind your shins

Sit start on the triangle and up using the next big triangle and crimps on the right.

Sit start at the diamond as for Single Cone, then trend right on slopey holds to finish on jugs (can even extend and finish on 2 Scoops Licourice Icecream for extra pump). Cool sequence.

Cool little balancy problem. Can sit start on left jugs and traverse through mega scoop and top out up the middle

Start as "2 Scoops Licourice Icecream" and traverse right. Go around the fin/flake and top out. Don't use the "Cougar" boulder for additional hand/feet holds.

Run up straight into the middle and jump up direct for the lip. Don't slip!

Sit start on the slopey ball with feet out right then mantle into the scoop and then top out as 2 Scoops. Sneaky...

Taran

Start deep under the roof as far back as you can and follow the crack out

Classic from Andy Lampard. Start lying down on left hand jug and right hand sharp undercling and double toehooks in the crack. Work your way up to the jug then trend left with interesting beta towards the left corner and top. Avoid dabbing the boulder behind you. Core intensive!

Andy

Lying down start as for 'The Cougar'. Out to the jug and straight up from there with a tricky mantle!

Matt

Start as for The Cougar and take a far right exit from the jug instead of the 'Cougar Right' exit - move under the fin and then top out in between the fin and the glass cage boulder using sneaky knee bars. Sorta interesting sequence... but ultimately just awkward and contrived.

SDS right at the back of the roof (If you think you are in the right spot keep crawling under), compress the fridge feature for 2m then out to a slopey top out. Contrived line - climbed as a compression, using the 'crack only' is considered it's own line out the cave.

Julz

Start as for 'A Glass Cage of Emotion' then link in to exit back and left as for 'The Cougar'. Pumpy and resistant.

Taran

Start as for 'A Glass Cage of Emotion', then come out left through the scoops to gain the jug and top out as 'The Cougar, Right'. Starting at the scoop earns you the V6 midstart.

Instead of starting squeezing the boulder start as far under as you can (ends up just next to the start of A Glass Cage of Emotion) and traverse into the sit and you're away. Adds extra pump - maybe adds a grade to each of the potential exits.

Amazing problem. Sit start. Left hand low on the arete and right on a small crimp. Toping out straight up will earn you a V4.

Julz

Do not top out for '2 Scoops of Booty Flakes,' but instead continue traversing through break via barn door move of death.. Ensure this is within your grade unless you have a spotter and pads

SDS obvious jug, up slopers and crimp to top out. Andy Lampard, name? Approximate grade v5?

Much harder eliminate by removing crimp and using slopers only.

Sit start and up. Juggy

Sit start with jam crack. Up to the sloping lip and traverse as far right as you please then top out.

Tad contrived line. Start left with one hand up on crimp and hand/heel on scoop underneath. Keep foot contact under roof until you hit the top out crimps, then heel up and top out.

Improbably and strangely fun. Sit start (no stacking pads!)with both hands on the awful slopers and exit straight. There is a trick.

Sit start (No stacking!) with one hand on the arete and one hand on the slopey deliciousness, bump your way up the arete and drive by to jugs. No I'm not kidding. No dabbing kiddos. Again, theres a trick.

Start on arete and move out left to obvious rail and follow as far left as possible and top out

Sit start as Slopey Bois Seeking Slopey Gurls, work your way around the arete without using the top and finish as Slip n Slide. A tad contrived but fun

Sit start matched with good holds on the right and up.

SDS on obvious rail, follow crack avoiding using the right boulder.

Sit start on same rail as Squeeze, then up on sharp crimps to the right of the break in the middle of the face

Same Start as Face, but traverse and up on crimps to the left of the crack.

Hard. SDS as squeezy feet, then traverse right through blank roof section and then up crack in face.

SDS and up.

Rad Line coming out of the cave.

Sit start in the back right of the cave with low pockets. Avoid dabbing the boulder on the right. Come straight out on crimps with some fun tension moves. Little chossy but with some traffic will clean up nicely.

https://youtu.be/y5jeS6xxgfY

SDS low, slappy on the slopey edge and right jugs. https://youtu.be/y5jeS6xxgfY

Left variant, a tad harder

Sit start and up the obvious scoop feature with a few possible ways to exit.

Sit start and then up the arete.

Sit start with left hand in the scoop and right hand low on the slopey dome-like hold. Come up through the face avoiding going all the way left to join 'Warming up #2' (this link earns you V1). A bit contrived but fun when done in the right spirit.

Sit start with low hands and squeeze your way up. Cruxy to establish then gets easier the higher you go. Avoid using the boulder to the left

Start under the boulder then sloper traverse to slab. https://vimeo.com/119337880

Sit start and traverse right on good holds over wet landing

Stand start on low left hand undercling and right hand high on slopey crimp. Hard start, then dyno to lip. https://vimeo.com/119337880

Note: Unfortunately the crimp that you dyno to has broken. The climb remains possible, with a bigger dyno to the lip and a larger swing out. Re-opened 5/6/22 by Tom O'Hallorhan! https://youtu.be/pwsiUx_U2mg

Hard sit start.

Start as 'Crimping Ain't Easy'. Come out left to sloper and then straight up from sloper. Adds some hard moves to the original. https://youtu.be/pwsiUx_U2mg?t=320

Start as for 'Crimping Ain't Easy' but from the flat edge traverse left over dodgy landing with slopey hold into good holds on the left.

Easy slab with a dodgy landing