10m, 14. Start about 5m right of Banana Split, go up the black wall for 2m, followed by 2m of horizontal breaks leading to a 4m vertical crack. Beware of loose rocks. Optional Belay on the ledge.
15m, 11. Continue up the lower ramp below the line of Northwind. On a hot day, consider climbing the second pitch barefoot to make them happier!
Note: this line was climbed to retrieve the trad anchor of Jug Abuse about 12m down and right of the optional belay of Happy Feet. Have others found a better way to clean the anchor of Jug Abuse (see drawing on S. Richardson’s guide)? Perhaps, many have been wise enough to stay away from Jug Abuse altogether 😉
Great beginner route. Climb up easy corner/roof section to reach wide banana shaped crack. Jam your way to the top. Well protected with small to medium cams and nuts.
Sustained. Climb obvious crack route up middle of face. Small cam/nut required for top section. Desperately look for the good hold to reach bolt (hanger required), then squirm your way over the top. DBB (ringbolts) can be found on top and to the left.
We got a little lost trying to ascend BoF and ended up on this great line!
start on West face, move slightly right to clip the first bolt. Long move up and right and into good rail beneath roof. Powerful pull through this up the left weakness, and then climb straight to the top, passing through slight open-book. The top half of the route shares the line of Baited Frenzy (18) with marginal protection.
