Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Mon 10th Jun 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
23 | ★★ Japetus Direct Finish | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Sun 26th May 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
22 ~21 | ★★ Terra Incognita - with Carl Schneider | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 20th Apr 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
22 | ★★ Terra Incognita - with Alex Battaglia | 20m | |||||
skipped a big crimpy move down low, and dogged up. cool enough
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Sun 14th Apr 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
25 Hard | ★★★ The Stench Before the Storm | 19m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Dialled in the crux on top rope, then went for a lead attempt. Got the crux down now, just need to be efficient on the roof moves
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Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
30 | ★★ Fred Radford | ||||||
Some promising links today! Great bit of climbing
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Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
25 Hard | ★★★ The Stench Before the Storm | 19m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Giving this a go after a long 'break'. Lock off, toe down hard
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Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
22 | ★★ Terra Incognita | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thu 28th Mar 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
23 | ★★ Japetus Direct Finish - with Belle | ||||||
22 | ★ Sardine - with Belle | 21m, 6 | |||||
Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
22 Hard | ★ Sardine | 21m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice challenging pumpy lead. First bolt clipped. Def hardest from bolts 1-3, but the lingering pump made the rest an ongoing challenge. Top roped it after and it was no easier, lol, I was gassed. I'll have another go with fresh arms though...
Still have no idea what the beta in the route description refers to. Just follow the bolts! |
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Mon 18th Mar 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
24 | ★ Pussycats and Crushed Kneecaps - with Laura | 18m | |||||
Quite fun
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Sun 3rd Mar 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
24 | ★★ No Mustard on Withdrawal — 2 attempts | 21m | |||||
The traverse and drop down move was scary but that could just be my short legs 😢 Cool moves through the crux once you work out what to do and then it’s just trying to control the pump easy climbing to the end.
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24 | ★ Two Hour Hole | 18m | |||||
Sorted the moves so will be back, scary to the second bolt
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Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
25 Hard | ★★★ The Stench Before the Storm - with Khya Brown, Ben Kaldi, Mitch, Shiran, Luca | 19m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
And again. Perhaps I’m overshooting in anticipation or I’m preemptively releasing so I don’t slide down the rock if I don’t stick it.
Not sure what to adjust as I don’t even feel that fatigued after repeating the sequence up to it and sticking the move twice in a row after coming off
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25 Hard | ★★★ The Stench Before the Storm - with Khya Brown, Ben Kaldi, Mitch, Shiran, Luca | 19m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Rinse and repeat. Fell again on the clean burn and stuck it twice after.
Need to figure out what’s happening here 🤯
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25 Hard | ★★★ The Stench Before the Storm - with Khya Brown, Ben Kaldi, Mitch, Shiran, Luca | 19m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Up to the dyno and dropped the dyno.
Stuck the move twice after then lowered.
Feeling super dialled and locked in for the entire sequence up to it at least
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25 Hard | ★★★ The Stench Before the Storm | 19m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Im getting quite good at falling before getting the rail at the third bolt now.
Surely any burn now this will happen. I always manage to pull back on and top. After falling once at the crux.
Need to return in better conditions maybe and shoes ? |
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25 Hard | ★★★ The Stench Before the Storm | 19m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Another burn and another bottle. Just not hitting it quite right. Can one blame their shoes? 👀
Stuck the move and lowered off the third. |
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25 Hard | ★★★ The Stench Before the Storm | 19m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
After watching Vaughan, basically onsight this and the stoke being at an all time high I still managed to bottle the the move.
The rest feels dialled though.
Thanks for the super soft catch Vaughan!
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22 | ★ Sardine - with Bill Begg | 21m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 11th Feb 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
25 Hard | ★★★ The Stench Before the Storm - with Khya Brown, Dan millar, Paul Kinnane, Joanna Lazniewska | 19m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Last burn for the day and bottled the dyno. Got good height and just didn’t quite latch the hold.
Went back up and finished the route. Overall stoked with my progress. Any session now it could go |
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25 Hard | ★★★ The Stench Before the Storm - with Khya Brown, Dan millar, Paul Kinnane, Joanna Lazniewska | 19m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Messed up my foot beta on the dyno.
Quite the exhilarating fall.
Dialled the dyno and didn’t top. |
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25 Hard | ★★★ The Stench Before the Storm - with Khya Brown, Dan millar, Paul Kinnane, Joanna Lazniewska | 19m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First burn of the day.
Took a rest after clipping the second.
Lined up the dyno and got it first go and continued to the top. Incredibly stoked to get the move and do this in one hang. Stuck the dyno again on lower too. I progressed a lot faster than I thought I would. ELV R training definitely helped my mental for this dyno. |
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Sat 3rd Feb 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
25 | ★★★ The Stench Before the Storm - with Timothy Tan, Sarah Jessop, Andrew Dolan | 19m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A year later I come back to this, feeling stronger and more confident. And this time I can't even get to the top — on top rope, again. So I'm here "claiming" my top rope attempt, which apparently leads to 'grade attachment', whatever the fuck that is. Now that I got that out of the way — note to self (and spoiler alert for the onsighters, who shouldn't be here by the way): remember high left foot and drop knee to avoid peeling off in the roof; clip from high crimp, cross hands at the following crimps, drop your left knee properly and go for the furthest left part of the crimp "rail" next. I'm learning, and that's what this log is for, and remember, you chose to read it.
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Sun 21st Jan 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
22 | ★ Sardine - with Dan millar, Mitch Slocombe, Ross Paynter | 21m, 6 | |||||
25 Hard | ★★★ The Stench Before the Storm - with Dan millar | 19m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Last burn and felt pretty dialed going up to the big move near the third bolt.
The two finger pocket at the first bolt felt great today and was also mini knee baring the left knee in the undercling. |
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25 Hard | ★★★ The Stench Before the Storm - with Dan millar | 19m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Refined my moves to the second clip okay.
Still couldnt get to the third bolt proper without grabbing the draw. Tried a few different methods here but none unlocked it. Dyno almost worked, got the height but felt crazy to latch.
Maybe more crimp power?
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25 Hard | ★★★ The Stench Before the Storm - with Dan millar | 19m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Felt pretty rough doing the moves again. Trying to refine the beta and what works best for me.
Crux move up to third bolt was elusive!
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Sat 20th Jan 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
25 | ★★★ The Stench Before the Storm | 19m | |||||
What a line, got all the moves individually, just need to hook it all up.
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Wed 3rd Jan 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★ October - with Carl Schneider | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
21 | ★ October - with Carl Schneider | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Mon 1st Jan 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
25 Hard | ★★★ The Stench Before the Storm | 19m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Could barely make any of the moves this time.
Technically took a ground fall on rope stretch after cutting feet and peeling off the holds at the first draw.
Wasn’t able to find much rest on the block after the roof. Couldn’t make the big move to the last bolt. This time I did manage the top sequence at least!! The nice holds at the top inspire some confidence |
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25 Hard | ★★★ The Stench Before the Storm | 19m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Not sure. Hard moves after hard moves. Managed to get to the last clip via many hang dogs.
Very crimpy and pumpy. Could not get through to the good top holds.
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Thu 28th Dec 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
22 | ★★ Terra Incognita - with Laura Hodgson | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
19 | Super Furry Beaver - with Laura Hodgson | 16m, 4 | |||||
19 | Super Furry Beaver - with Matt Sheppard | 16m, 4 | |||||
22 | ★★ Terra Incognita - with Matt Sheppard | 20m | |||||
Fri 15th Dec 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
22 | ★ Sardine | 21m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 6th Oct 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★ October | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
22 | ★ Sardine | 21m, 6 | |||||
Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
23 | ★★ Japetus Direct Finish — 2 attempts | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Sun 4th Jun 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
23 | ★★ Japetus Direct Finish | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Tue 25th Apr 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
22 | ★★ Terra Incognita | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
23 | ★★ Japetus Direct Finish — 3 attempts | ★★ Very Good | |||||
21 | ★ October | 12m, 3 | Average | ||||
Sat 1st Apr 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
23 | ★★ Japetus Direct Finish — 2 attempts - with Uday, Gioele | ★★ Very Good | |||||
tried the redpoint and din't get it this time. Another cledan lap on top rope at the end of the session too, but the redopoint will have to wait...
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23 | ★★ Japetus Direct Finish - with Adam Deverix | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Another try at this today. For me the heel hooks (I think three all up) are instrumental. Found a new LH large side pull up the top, level with the undercling/ side pull block but further left.
Felt no where near as strong as last time.
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Sun 5th Mar 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★ October | 12m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
lol, one day
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Sat 4th Mar 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
23 | ★★ Japetus Direct Finish | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Another attempt at this. I need to remember the beta, esp the heel hook at the start. I use three heel hooks all up. It’s getting closer.
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Sun 26th Feb 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
22 | ★★ Terra Incognita - with Jordy Carr, Andrew Hojem | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 19th Feb 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★ October | 12m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
22 | ★★ Terra Incognita — 2 attempts | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 12th Feb 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
23 | ★★ Japetus Direct Finish - with Bill Begg | ★★ Very Good | |||||
New highpoint, took a whip as I was too pumped to clip the 4th bolt.
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22 | ★★ Terra Incognita — 3 attempts | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Missed the onsight just before the chains (pump is real). Was too cooked to tick it afterwards. Reachy, good for the tall folk.
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Sat 11th Feb 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
25 | ★★★ The Stench Before the Storm - with Felipe | 19m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
This is quite sensational, but I got humbled big time. On top rope! Doesn't feel like will go for me to be honest. Don't imagine this will be my first 25, if there's even one out there...
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Sat 4th Feb 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
18 | ★★ Terrathea | 20m | |||||
23 | ★★ Japetus Direct Finish — 2 attempts - with Josh, Hugh | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Such an excellent route! Got clean to the last bolt and then couldn't clip due the pump, haha... Pulled the rope twice (trying to clip overhead) and couldn't clip — should have just kept climbing a bit as there's a better clipping position on the arete. This has to go next time if I don't mess up the start!! A clean lap on top rope after to try to keep the moves on my memory!
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Fri 3rd Feb 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
22 | ★★ Terra Incognita - with James Hart | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Thu 26th Jan 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
23 | ★★ Japetus Direct Finish - with Bill Begg, Cliff Barnett | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Tried this twice today. First time going from draw to draw. Then gave it a good go. Need more endurance to get this clean but it’s doable. The direct start is cool.
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23 | ★★ Japetus Direct Finish - with Carl Schneider, Bill Begg | ★★ Very Good | |||||
22 | ★ Sardine - with Carl Schneider, Bill Begg | 21m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 15th Jan 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
23 Hard | ★★ Japetus Direct Finish | ||||||
18 | ★★ Terrathea - with Matt Sheppard | 20m | |||||
20 | ★★ Gladiator - with Matt Sheppard | 16m, 3 | |||||
Mon 2nd Jan 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
25 | ★★★ The Stench Before the Storm | 19m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Feeling pretty strong. Hopefully next sesh!
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Sat 3rd Dec 2022 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
20 | ★★ Gladiator | 16m, 3 | |||||
21 | ★ October - with Mark Charles Barnett, Carl Schneider, Bill Begg | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Fell going for the jug at the end of the crux, hand sequence was back to front.
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22 ~21 | ★★ Terra Incognita - with Mark Charles Barnett, Carl Schneider, Bill Begg | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Nice to be back on this, lovely climbing the whole way. Mucked up my sequence moving past 3rd bolt.
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Mon 10th Oct 2022 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★ October | 12m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
“There’s possibly something to be said for warming up” said Carl, as he suffered horrible forearm pump after jumping on this with no warm up WHAT so ever.
Had to have a sit after the first bolt.
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Sat 18th Jun 2022 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
22 | ★ Sardine - with Mana, Kachow | 21m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
got a gnarly flash pump and rested at the the third bolt, clean otherwise
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22 | ★ Sardine - with Mana, Kachow | 21m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
flubbed the beta at the 4th bolt
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Sat 14th May 2022 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
22 | ★ Sardine | 21m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Tr's complaining, asking where I was supposed to be going, asking for beta and whining all the way. Three or four sits but got there. For me it's easier at the start to use the little sharp hold out rightish rather than the RH slopey side pull to head out L to the edges. I have to remember that they pocket at the end is a good RH hold if you step up high on the rail.
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23 | ★★ Japetus Direct Finish - with Bill Begg | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Gave it a whirl on TR with Bill. Had about two sits but got up it. Much better than last time's fiasco with the cut up hand. For me the first few moves (after the blade) is almost a first crux. Bill's beta of L foot on mid line to the body to go to the first jugs stops the swing effectively. My beta of LH Gaston after 2nd bolt is shit. Better to use that as a RH hold then use hidden side pull in LH hole to go to R undercling.
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Sun 1st May 2022 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
23 Hard | ★★ Japetus Direct Finish | ||||||
Sat 9th Apr 2022 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
23 | ★★ Japetus Direct Finish | ||||||
Sun 27th Mar 2022 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
22 | ★ Sardine | 21m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
TRd after Bill led it, not clean. One or two rests. Felt better than last time. Working it out.
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Sat 19th Mar 2022 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
23 | ★★ Japetus Direct Finish - with Bill Begg, Carl Schneider | ★★ Very Good | |||||
End of day to clean the draws.
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23 | ★★ Japetus Direct Finish - with Bill Begg, Carl Schneider | ||||||
Bolt to bolt working. Figured some good beta for the first three bolts. Rest of the climb is a smidge easier, don't have the fitness to get it clean currently.
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Mon 14th Mar 2022 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
23 | ★★ Japetus Direct Finish | ||||||
Gave leading this a go today, didn’t get very far. Too tired. Beta for the bottom was R hand in high horiz, L hand to far L side pull (around the side) then R hand to blade bump R hand to jug (L side is better) but watch the swing! Then L hand Gaston to diagonal, R heel hook, L hand to undercling
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23 | ★★ Japetus Direct Finish - with Bill Begg, Carl Schneider, Mark Charles Barnett | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Top rope attempt, got it clean to the second bolt, couldn't get back onto the wall once I fell.
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Sat 12th Mar 2022 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
22 | ★ Sardine - with Carl Schneider, Mark Charles Barnett | 21m, 6 | |||||
Tried a few times to link the crux from the ground.
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22 ~21 | ★★ Terra Incognita - with Carl Schneider, Mark Charles Barnett | 20m | |||||
End of day top rope burn. Had to take two sits, definitely climbed in better on my first go.
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22 | ★ Sardine - with Carl Schneider, Mark Charles Barnett | 21m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Lead clean from second bolt.Worked out the awkward rest in the corner, rest of the route felt very manageable.
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22 | ★ Sardine | 21m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Tried on TR, failed, pumped out just trying to do the first traverse L. Need to sort the feet.
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Sun 6th Mar 2022 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
22 | ★★ Terra Incognita - with Bill Begg | 20m | |||||
Pumped out and misread the final move on my flash attempt. Great climbing, keen to get it clean next go.
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22 | ★ Sardine - with Bill Begg | 21m, 6 | |||||
One sit after the move going back right, rest clean. Not far off leading this.
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25 | ★★★ The Stench Before the Storm | 19m | |||||
Stuck the crux twice today! Finally some progress 😀
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Sun 27th Feb 2022 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
25 | ★★★ The Stench Before the Storm | 19m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Another burn, another crux beta 😂 reckon this one will stick though, psyched to get back on the horse!
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Sun 20th Feb 2022 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
23 | ★★ Japetus-Stench Connection | 20m | |||||
One sit, traverse and move into the Stench ramp is pretty on.
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Sun 30th Jan 2022 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
22 | ★★ Sardine Direct - with Bill Begg | ||||||
TR'd this today. First traverse R I found tricky (came off there I think) then wasn't sure of the move L to the corner thingy. Found some good beta coming out of there (good hold high L). Next bit was OK, can't work out the last bit, but Adam confirmed it's what I considered but rejected, haul on good LH hold and OK R hold and use a very high R foot to haul up.
WAY harder 22 than Terra Incognita, I think.
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25 | ★★★ The Stench Before the Storm | 19m | |||||
21 | ★ October | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Wed 26th Jan 2022 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★ October - with Carl Schneider, Aga | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Found this quite tough. Worked out some better beta for the first half over two top rope attempts.
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21 | ★ October | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Onsight attempt ended quickly at the move above the first bolt. Had one other attempt on lead which ended a little higher.
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Sun 16th Jan 2022 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
22 | ★★ Terra Incognita | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 9th Jan 2022 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
23 | ★★ Japetus Direct Finish | ||||||
Got up it on TR with a few sits.
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Wed 5th Jan 2022 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
25 | ★★★ The Stench Before the Storm - with Nick | 19m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Found a more secure sequence following the beta that was share by the others braving the rain
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25 | ★★★ The Stench Before the Storm - with Nick | 19m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
should have gone this shot but not quite enough potatoes
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Tue 4th Jan 2022 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
25 | ★★★ The Stench Before the Storm | 19m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Through the crux and fell
pumped out on the cam - so close!
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Mon 3rd Jan 2022 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
25 | ★★★ The Stench Before the Storm - with nick | 19m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
think i've got a sequence together now
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