Ascents in The Lost Walls

A cluster of widow-makers near the top need removing.

Got this first go today (led it, sports). VERY nice in the middle section. Clearly the grade of 23 is for trad. I'd say 21 for sports, maybe 22. Beware the loose block, although it doesn't seem to be coming out in a hurry one never knows...

The best climb at lost walls. super technical mid section.

This is an excellent and technical climb. However I think that the guide info here is incorrect - there are 7 bolts in total, plus two rap chains at the top. Take 9 draws! The final crux is made harder by the ominously cracked undercling boulder that seems like it is just about to fall. I went out left to the arete to avoid this. Totally stoked to have made it up this in one go!

Couple of sits but got up there without too much bother.

Gave this another whirl. Had a few sits. Then tried again on TR and did it WORSE. Did work out some nice beta with Aga though. The actual moves don't feel too hard for me... I think I'm my previously ticked attempt I may have escaped the route by going too far left.

Gave it another go, still no luck. Did better on the first crux. Got to work out the beta for the little roof...

Thought it was a bit hard for a 19.... two big holds that could come off and destroy your belayer.

Rested on the 4th draw. Got told to climb the wrong direction from the bottom resulting in confusion and extra pump. Should go next attempt.

moves all went pretty nicely, just need to come back with some more fitness and better tactics

Got it second shot of the day after slipping after the crux! Feels a bit easy for a 23, think 22 is about right for a sport lead.

Really cool bottom slab, needed to work the beta on the middle crux, end was pretty cool climbing. Nice, unlike witches.

I like the decision to bolt and to retain the original name.

Thought it was hard for a 15. Realised I’d misread the guidebook when I get back to the ground. Did all the moves but had to sit 3 times!

Relearning the beta to get clean soon. The step up into the undercling block would be such a nice move if the block wasn’t so keen to visit the creek in the valley below. Individual moves aren’t bad, keen for another sesh soon. With or without blocky boi.

Climbs really well, loses a star for the loose rock near bottom and top. Pumpy. Now has 7 bolts

Really enjoyed this. Maybe this style really suits me, but it did feel a bit easy. The lose block at the top is super dangerous, I'll put a flag up here. Would be pretty important for someone who knows what they are doing to remove it. I didn't want to do it as I've never removed something that big from a climb and didn't want to do something stupid! DO NOT touch that block (chalk crosses all over it) — even if it misses your belayer (who would not survive being hit by that) it might still cut the rope. Disaster written all over it.

Bit different for Morialta - side pulls, underclings, no crimps.

A hidden gem - easily the best route at Morialta that's never climbed. Would be a solid lead at the grade.

Started slightly right of clean streak

Seemed easier, admittedly on toprope.

Seemed easier, admittedly on toprope.

Ugly

About third shot. "Still shedding holds", as they say.

Anyone clarify this is a bolted 17?

Could be a pumpy lead.