Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Trad | |||||
23 | Breathless
| Morialta | |||
13 | Prickly Heat
| Morialta | |||
16 | March Flies when You're Having Fun
| 18m | Morialta | ||
14 | Hakea
Start: The ragged corner 10M right of the blackberry filled gully. FA: Dave McNamara & John Dutton, 1973 | 18m | Morialta | ||
18 | ★ Barking Up Another Sacred Sight (sic)
Mixed pro. FA: Mark Barnett & David Paull, 1989 | 20m, 1 | Morialta | ||
20 | ★ Old Dog, New Trick
Straight up the layback flake to the chains (or beyond). FA: Dave Nelson | Morialta | |||
19 | As the Crowe Flies
Bolts L of Gladiator, stepping into that route to finish. FA: Tony Barker & John Marshall, 2005 | 20m | Morialta | ||
20 | ★★ Gladiator
Takes the overhanging line just left of the corner (marked). Climb through the overhanging start (crux) to a stance just under a small roof, then reach out right and climb into the opposing corner. Continue up the line to a layback finish and chains. | 16m, 3 | Morialta | ||
24 | ★ Hippy and a Wharfie
Rarely done, mainly because it has a sport (bolted) start, then relies on trad (small wires) to finish. Climbs Pussycats start (crux) then trends left into Kiss My Brain (bolt and old piton). Over roof, but instead of taking the bolt line left (KMB), go up 2/3m then trent left to arete. Finish at top chain for maximum enjoyment. FA: Stuart Williams, 1988 | 22m | Morialta | ||
18 | ★★ Terrathea
The good-looking corner crack just right of 'Sardine'. Cruxy start, then once level with Sardine's 2nd bolt, it eases off (but not completely). Best finished by traversing left to the 'Sardine' chains. FA: Dave McNamara, George Adams & Doug Mclean | 20m | Morialta | ||
22 | ★ Incognita-Japetus DF Link
| Morialta | |||
24 | ★ Two Hour Hole
Take 'Japetus' to the 'hole' - then launch up the left side of the arete past a small edge and a 'hidden' sidepull to the 'Japetus' break. The original line continued up the face of 'Terra Incognita' - however cutting back right at the good rest and launching up the direct finish of 'Japetus' Direct makes for a far better route. FA: Stuart Williams & Duncan Graham, 1995 | 18m | Morialta | ||
23 | ★★ Japetus
The original route. Now superseded by the direct finish. Start: Takes the very overhanging arete from its base up to the 'hole', then tacts right around the steep arete and up to the big break via a good undercling. This original line then stepped left and finished up the 'Terra Incognita' face. FA: Kim Carrigan (all on trad), 1979 | Morialta | |||
27 | ★ Japetus Extension
A boulder problem traverse link up into Japetus Direct Finish. Start (sit) left of base of Olympus - dyno rightwards and climb across cave to juggy traverse that leads underneath Sardine etc to base of Japetus. Continue up that route. Best done with a top-rope clipped in prior to embarking on the route itself. Basically a V5/6 problem into an existing 23. | 30m | Morialta | ||
23 | ★★ Japetus Right Hand
FA: Finish up black streak right of last bolt | Morialta | |||
14 | Fenceline
| 19m | Morialta | ||
16 | Debut
| Morialta | |||
11 | Hanging Foul
| 15m | Morialta | ||
21 | Get Smart
| 15m | Morialta | ||
10 | Moss Wall
| Morialta | |||
17 | Passing Shadows
| 15m | Morialta | ||
11 | Thorn In My Side
| 12m | Morialta | ||
12 | Numbats
| 8m | Morialta | ||
20 | Blessed Ignorance
| 13m | Morialta | ||
5 | Grass Gully
| 10m | Morialta | ||
12 | ★ Chockablock
| 10m | Morialta | ||
15 | ★ Airport
| 10m | Morialta | ||
17 | I'm Staying Up Here With My Friends
| 10m | Morialta | ||
11 | Second hand Italian Tank
| 10m | Morialta | ||
19 | The Harvard Professor
| 11m | Morialta | ||
22 | ★★ Fighter Jock Heaven
| 11m | Morialta | ||
19 | ★ Bliss
| 11m | Morialta | ||
16 | Procrastinator
| 13m | Morialta | ||
18 | Wet Zebra
| 13m | Morialta | ||
16 | Boiled Rice
| 11m | Morialta | ||
18 | Cranks for the Memories
| 11m | Morialta | ||
20 | ★ Disguise the Limit
| 12m | Morialta | ||
22 | ★ The Outside of the Envelope
| 13m | Morialta | ||
17 | Gardening by Moonlight
| 10m | Morialta | ||
20 | Alarm Bells
| 15m | Morialta | ||
17 | Lurking Suspicion
| 15m | Morialta | ||
21 | The Bleeding Obvious
| 15m | Morialta | ||
21 | Man of Flowers
| 15m | Morialta | ||
7 | Nutcracker
| 15m | Morialta | ||
8 | Thrash Piggies
"The front of the little buttress at the very left of the cliff. The crux is getting through the blackberries." Rock Climbing Around Adelaide" FA: Erik Lock & Nick Neagle, 1991 | 12m | Morialta | ||
6 | Tequila
The unnattractive flaring groove left of Vug. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide" FA: Mike Waite, Mike Ashton & Craig Hiill, 1968 | 16m | Morialta | ||
4 | Vug
Up to a bushy ledge near the left end of the cliff then the corner on the right. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide" FA: Craig Hill, Mike Ashton & Graham Hill, 1968 | 16m | Morialta | ||
13 | Mossy Edge
The steep arete left of 'Aries' gives way to ledge hopping. FA: Colin Reece & Eddie Ozols, 1975 | 17m | Morialta | ||
12 | Aries
Start: The vertical crack 1 metre right of the arete has an interesting first few moves. FA: Mike Ashton, Terry Prime & Mike Waite., 1968 | 17m | Morialta | ||
12 | Garden Wall
A tough start with some suss rock leads to a ledge below a short corner with a wide crack. Overcome this and another tricky corner to finish. Start: The centre of the wall between 'Aries' and do Not Drop. FA: AUMC, 1960 | 17m | Morialta | ||
8 | Do Not Drop
The shallow left facing corner and the square cut corner above. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide" FA: Mike Waite & Mike Ashton, 1968 | 17m | Morialta | ||
11 | Handle With Care
Start: Climb the middle of the wall between 'Do Not Drop' and 'This Way Up' to reach a narrow projecting buttress. Finish up the front of this. FA: Mike Waite & Mike Ashton, 1968 | 18m | Morialta | ||
7 | ★ This Way Up
The easy corner and wide chimney FA: Mike Waite & Mike Ashton, 1968 | 18m | Morialta | ||
13 | ★ Export Quality
Start: The grooved arete left of 'Pedagogue' is gained directly. FA: Colin Reece & Eddie Ozols, 1975 | 21m | Morialta | ||
12 | Pedagogue
(P) The curving left facing corner with a steep start. The most popular climb at this end of the crag. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide" FA: Mike Waite, Mike Ashton & Dave McNamara, 1968 | 20m | Morialta | ||
18 | ★ Levee Breaks
The rock could break too. Up the overhanging right side of the arete right of Pedagogue to a ledge. Continue up the arete. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide" FA: Rod Young & Gary Scott, 1979 | 20m | Morialta | ||
18 | Fragile
(F) The protection is reasonable, but take note of the name. Sustained climbing up to the ledge then short wall to finish. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide" FA: Colin Reece & Mike James FFA: Gary Scott, 1979 | 21m | Morialta | ||
16 | Fragile and Useless
Beigin beneath a broad blade right of fragile. Climb directly up to it and continue past a sheok FA: Mike James, 1975 | 22m | Morialta | ||
13 | Use No Hooks
Start: Climb steeply and directly to gain a corner left of 'Shonarch'. FA: 1973 | 21m | Morialta | ||
17 | Shonarch
(S) A steep, scrappy start leads to an arete and the front of the tower above. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide" FA: Richard Horn, 1970 FFA: Colin Reece, 1976 | 21m | Morialta | ||
13 | Hieroglyph
Start: The corner bounding the left side of Pizzaz wall is guarded by an overhanging start. FA: Mike Waite & Mike Ashton, 1968 | 21m | Morialta | ||
23 | ★★ Pizazz
The face on the left of the 'Barad Dur' wall, avoiding the corner. Climb on crimps following the line of bolts up the face. Start: You can begin as for 'Barad Dur' or from directly below the route proper. | 21m, 4 | Morialta | ||
28 | ★★ Locust Abortion Technician
Start as for Barad Dur. Once on the ledge step left so that you are below and 1m left of Barad Dur's crackline and climb directly up, staying within a metre of the crack. If you're on route the first bolt of Pizazz can be clipped prior to heading up but then you are relying on side runners in Barad Dur. FA: Simon Wilson, 1998 | 20m, 1 | Morialta | ||
22 | ★★★ Barad Dur
Swing up the steep juggy wall immediately left of Eternal Damnation's undercut arete past a big rattly block to a ledge. Step right and go up to the roof. Now make a cramped step back left past a bolt onto an undercut wall to reach the base of the crack. Straight up the crack. FA: Stuart Fishwick & Richard Horn, 1970 | 20m, 1 | Morialta | ||
19 | ★ Shewoodenduit
Start: Follow Barrud Dur to the roof, then nip back right under this to a crack, which is climbed. FA: David Moriarty & Mike Waite, 1968 | 20m | Morialta | ||
17 | ★ Shewoodenduit LHF
| 20m | Morialta | ||
23 | ★★ Eternal Damnation
| 18m | Morialta | ||
25 | ★★ Mad Germans By Torchlight
The face between Eternal Damnation's Arete and Lord's Prayer's Corner. Both of these routes are off limits. Begin as for Eternal Damnation and then continue up the face avoiding the arete of Eternal Damnation and corner of Lord's Prayer. FA: Adam Clay, 1991 | 18m | Morialta | ||
15 | ★ Lords Prayer
Worth its grade for the start and some nice bridging moves up the corner. Start: Up the left hand corner to the right of 'Shewoodenduit'. | 17m | Morialta | ||
19 | Sermon
| 17m | Morialta | ||
18 | Sermon RHF
| 17m | Morialta | ||
19 | Pulpit
FA: George Adams, 1969 | 15m | Morialta | ||
17 | ★ Alms
| 15m | Morialta | ||
14 | Joseph
| 14m | Morialta | ||
19 | ★ Tabraj
| 14m | Morialta | ||
17 R | ★★ Resurrection
Crux is essential unprotected, not a good climb for a grade 17 leader Start: Start at the boulder and make a nice move to gain the V - corner. | 14m | Morialta | ||
24 | ★ Klutz
| 13m | Morialta | ||
21 | ★★ Klutz Connection
| 14m | Morialta | ||
22 | ★ Cioch
“Up the wall Right of RESURRECTION to a squatting rest beneath the Roof, Step left , Clip a bolt - Then fight Up to the nipple on the arete. Finish up the HAND CRACK. There are variants but the above mentioned is most popular “ Rock climbing around Adelaide. George Adams , John Dutton (14M3) 1970 TR Jim Olsen 20.10.74 FFLA Henry Barber 15.4.75 (19) FFLA Rod Young 18.9.79 (22) | 14m | Morialta | ||
15 | Arev
FA: 2006 | 14m | Morialta | ||
17 | ★ Road Show
| 14m | Morialta | ||
12 | ★ Sheoak Corner
Start: Start from the olive tree. Up the open corner. Great introductory route. FA: Mike Waite, Mike Ashton & Terry Prime, 1968 | 15m | Morialta | ||
18 | Sheoak Arete
The arete just right of Sheoak Corner FA: Rodger Alldritt, 1975 FFA: John Marshal, 1979 | 15m | Morialta | ||
16 | ★ Golgotha
Climb the groove to a ramp below the roof. Over the roof and follow the crack. FA: Stuart Fishwick, George Adams & John Dutton, 1970 | 15m | Morialta | ||
15 | ★ Tai-o-Toshi
Start: Over the bulge 1 metre right of 'Golgotha'. Up to the ledge right of the nose. Head up the groove just right of the arete. FA: Mike Waite & Mike Ashton, 1968 | 15m | Morialta | ||
15 | ★ Shemademedoit
Wall with thin crack between Tai-o-Toshi and Ob-La-Di. Wouldn't be a FA, this may flush out the truth. FA: Paul Badenoch & Cynthia Palfreyman, 2005 | 15m | Morialta | ||
16 | ★ Ob-la-di
The central line on the wall, taking care not to fall astride the sharp blade. Fortunately the protection is adequate. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide" FA: Mike Waite & Graham Hill, 1968 | 17m | Morialta | ||
14 | Gunga Din
The corner on the right end of the red wall. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide" FA: Mike Waite, 1968 | 18m | Morialta | ||
6 | Yggdrasil
| 13m | Morialta | ||
7 | Drop Dead
| Morialta | |||
12 | ★ Sentry Box
| 11m | Morialta | ||
19 | Sentry Box RHV
| 10m | Morialta | ||
6 | Cork
The unappealing corner left of the Bung wall. | 9m | Morialta | ||
24 | ★ Bung Left
Wall left of Bung Direct, staying out of the corner and not touching the central crack. FA: TR Kim Karrigan, 1979 FFA: Nick Neagle, 1988 | 13m | Morialta | ||
23 X | ★★ Bung Direct
The central crack. The first (aided) route up the wall took 16 years before it went free. FA: Richard Horn & Stuart Fishwick (A3), 1968 FFA: Most likely Mike Law-Smith, 1984 | 13m | Morialta | ||
20 X | ★★ Bung Original
"Original" in that it was the first variant on the wall to go free. Climb 'Bung Direct' to below the crux, step R, make a move up and then back L to the crack. FA: "Hot" Henry Barber, 1975 | 13m | Morialta | ||
20 | ★★ Bung RHF
The most common way up the wall. Follow 'Bung Original' but do not move back L. Finish up the face between the crack and arete. FA: Unknown | 13m | Morialta | ||
21 X | ★★ Bung Totally Right
Climb the R side of the wall, the crack and arete are off limits. FA: TR Colin Reece, 1979 | 13m | Morialta | ||
15 | ★★ Shedidit
Lace the crack up with cams and nuts. Has a nice move just before topping out. Start: Climb the vertical crack just right of bung wall. FA: David Moriarty, Stuart Fishwick & Christine Shedley, 1968 | 13m | Morialta | ||
7 | Sunout
The corner R of 'Shedidit' | Morialta |