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Routes as sport in Mount Coree

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Showing all 78 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Pretty Gully, Pretty Backside
15 Beck

A nice line rising leftwards from the left gully. 2nd bolt is loose (Mar18), bring a spanner.

FA: Rikard Hedman, 2015

Sport 15m, 4
15 Gunvald

One metre left of Hirdwall ... climbing toward the front of the blunt "backside"

FA: Rikard Hedman, 2015

Sport 15m, 4
15 Hirdwall

One metre left of School Girl Fantasies. Beautiful clean rock on this one.

FA: Rikard Hedman, 2015

Sport 15m, 4
15 School Girl Fantasies

A pleasant route, with the crux being a slightly blanker section then up through to fourth class territory before the chains. Bolts a bit rusted but still in good nick.

FA: Chris Warner

Sport 15m, 4
13 King Cup No 1

A lovely little ramble, with the first bolt being in good position if you wish to start straight underneath it in the gully, or giving a good little runout if you start at the bottom of the cliff. Once you've passed the last bolt it's fourth class territory to the chains.

FA: Nathan Wales

Sport 15m, 4
15 Brillo Pad

Fairly easy lower down, the crux is to find the point in the overlap at which you step over onto the arete.

FA: Nathan Wales

Sport 15m, 4
18 Super Discount

The crux of this route is just above the first bolt, after which the rest will feel quite easy! The hard moves through the roof are above the indicated grade; or you can use the fairly obvious overlap lower down and climb up the arete to get to the fourth bolt.

FA: Nathan Wales

Sport 15m, 4
17 8 Items or Less

A rather odd climb - some quite easy moves up to the first bolt, which continue up to the second, before which the climber is within ground fall territory. Joins up with 'Super Discount' after the third bolt. Similar to Super Discount, if you choose to go through the roof, expect this to be quite hard for the grade. However the smarter move would seem to be trending left to get around the arete...

FA: Nathan Wales

Sport 18m, 5
17 Femeture Definitive

An interesting climb, with reasonable moves down low turning into a heinous crux just above the third bolt. One for the tall climbers, or shorter people willing to dyno.

FA: Nathan Wales

Sport 15m, 3
17 Raining Pleasure

FA: Nathan Wales

Sport 12m, 5
22 Memory Relapse

FA: Justin Ryan

Sport 10m, 5
10 Fake News
  • warning. 5th bolt no hanger or nut. 6th bolt loose bring a shifter. To the right of Memory Relapse across a small steep gully. Starts in gully then Follows arête and the face above to anchors.

FA: Justin Ryan, 2015

Sport 12m, 6
12 Godisgris

To the right of Fake News around the corner on the same chunk of rock.

FA: Rikard Hedman, 2015

Sport 12m
24 Shhh...

FA: Chris Warner

Sport 4
Quintessence

Open project, right of 'Shhh...'.

SportProject 5
18 Meet Her at the Love Parade

Shares chains with 'Shhh...'.

FA: Chris Warner

Sport 12m, 4
8 Trumpian Psychology

FA: Justin Ryan, 2015

Sport 7m
12 Alternative Facts

Rising out of the bushes on the wall below 'Meet Her at the Love Parade'. A great first lead.

FA: Justin Ryan, 2015

Sport 9m, 3
Wind Wall
13 Dance Macabre

The wandering route up the ledges and cracks on the left end of the wall, that makes far more sense once you realise it was originally a trad route

Sport 10m
18 Catabolic

Shares chains with Catatonic. Up the left arete of the pillar

FA: Justin Ryan & Hamish Meffin

Sport 18m, 7
21 Catatonic

The right arete of the pillar

FA: Justin Ryan

Sport 18m, 5
18 St Vitus Dance

Starts a long way right, following the corner and ramp on the right side of the pillar. Tend right to the Jerusalem anchors. There was originally a direct start, but the bolt has been removed

FFA: Bryden Allen †, 1962

Sport 20m
19 Jerusalem

The face a few meters right

FA: John Smart

Sport 25m, 8
23 Laidback International

Starts at the RHS of the improbable blank looking face. Up the obvious layback feature.

FA: Chris Warner

Sport 25m, 9
21 Super Jesus

A great long route with a tricky start. Shares chains with Laidback International.

FA: Chris Warner

Sport 25m, 10
23 Not Surprised Motherfuckers

Stem up the arete (!), then bust left through the bulge and up to chains.

FA: Justin Ryan, 2016

Sport 15m
24 Minutes to Midnight

Starts 15 meters right of St Vitas' Dance, in the middle of the North buttress. Double ropes are useful.

  1. 15m - step off a block and up the wall heading right to a crack. Move left and up to the first bolt. then right and up left past the second bolt. Step right to the third bolt and across to a ledge and belay

  2. 10m - Up the easy mossy ramp to the top

FA: Simon Carter & Kieran Lawton, 1989

Sport 25m, 5
26 Kush

FA: Justin Ryan, 2016

Sport 6
24 Northern Lights

Left of the crack and up through the ring bolts

FA: Justin Ryan

Sport 20m, 8
24 Russification

Start up to the right of the crack and through onto the left wall up high. Sustained good climbing

FA: Chris Warner

Sport 20m, 8
23 Pale Blue Fade

A bouldery start leads to easier climbing. You may want the stick clip.

FA: Chris Warner

Sport 15m, 5
24 Copernican Direct

Same start as Pale Blue Fade but crosses up into Copernican. Good link up.

FA: Chris Warner

Sport 8
25 Copernican

Technical climbing. Hard Onsight. Traverse in a little from the right to left and then straight up. Good long route

FA: Nathan Wales

Sport 25m, 8
24 Neo-techno-grind

Great physical climbing up the corner and around the overhang onto the higher face.

FA: Chris Warner

Sport 25m, 8
26/27 Thunk

Short and punchy. A main crux hold broke off in about 2005. It is now about 26-27.

FA: Chris Warner

Sport 15m, 5
22 Mank

The slab off the ledge with rings up higher

FA: Justin Ryan & Chris Warner

Sport 15m, 6
17 Menagerie

High first bolt just past platform. Keep right around blunt arete before anchors.

FFA: Sam Boileau, 10 Jan 2021

Sport 23m, 10
Little Scar Face
17 Superbug 75

Pleasant climbing

FA: Chris Warner

Sport 22m, 7
19 Original Retro Theory

Centre of the lower buttress

FA: Chris Warner

Sport 15m, 6
23 Keep on Truckin'

FA: Nathan Wales

Sport 12m, 6
South Park
19 Apache

The low-angled arête left of Lobo Arête. 8 bolts to double rings. (Upgraded from a sandbagged 15 based on experienced climber feedback and AI)

FA: Greg Baines, 2014

Sport 25m, 8
22 Lobo Arete

Tricky start into easier climbing then up through the slightly overhung corner, committed moves around onto the face and up the exposed arete on good holds to the top.

FA: Justin Ryan

Sport 25m, 11
23 Flying Fuck in a Rolling Donut

Inconspicuous holds at all angles make you earn this solid little climb.

FA: Justin Ryan

Sport 15m, 8
22 Head Effect

FA: Justin Ryan

Sport 4
23 Boggy Nights

Nice variety of moves on decent sized holds

FA: Justin Ryan

Sport 15m, 7
25 Honey White

Great route.

FA: Chris Warner

Sport 4
20 Chocolate Salty Balls

Search the depths of the lichen forest to discover some nice solid moves for the grade.

FA: Nathan Wales

Sport 12m, 6
23 Heavy Cloud

Good hard movements

FA: Chris Warner

Sport 3
Eco-Terrorism
15 Sunday

FA: Chris Warner

Sport 15m, 3
15 Blue Jay Way

FA: Nathan Wales

Sport 15m, 4
20 Blur

FA: Nathan Wales

Sport 15m, 3
18 Hello Nasty

FA: Chris Warner

Sport 12m, 5
22 Revolver

FA: Chris Warner

Sport 12m, 4
23 Shake it Baby, Show no Shame

FA: Justin Ryan

Sport 4
25 Mama Pyjama

FA: Chris Warner

Sport 6
25 Buena Vista

FA: Nathan Wales

Sport 5
25 Fly Boy Baby

A key undercling, about 15cm above and slightly right of the second bolt, broke on the 15/3/2020. The crux is now longer and harder and the grade will probably need adjusting after future repeats.

FA: Chris Warner

Sport 15m, 5
23 Super Dupa Fly

FA: Justin Ryan

Sport 4
Bogong Buttress
16 Running on Empty

Immediately Left of GGG, take the big detached flake and follow the bolts up to a DBB.

FA: Matt Rogerson, dave & zac, 22 Dec 2016

Sport 20m, 6
19 Tower of Power

Up the overhanging blunt arete, past three bolts. DBB.

Set: Matt Rogerson & Stu Davies, 19 Dec 2015

FA: Matt Rogerson, 19 Dec 2015

Sport 14m, 3
20 Mimi

Start as for Tower of Power, then right up smooth wall. DBB

Set: Stu Davies & Matt Rogerson, 19 Dec 2015

FA: Stu Davies, 19 Dec 2015

Sport 14m, 3
21 Rock On

3m left of BR on the pillar and crack feature besides it. Follow the bolts up the brilliant face features, keeping out of the bushes to the left. 10 hangers to a DBB.

Set: William Skea

FA: William Skea, 5 Sep 2015

Sport 28m, 12
16 Proboscis

Start shared with Rock On, up crack at left side of square platform. Run out on easy ground to the bolted flake of Bogong Rising, then link up into the last two bolts of Lepidoptera to shared DBB.

Sport 20m, 6
13 Lepidoptera

Starts up the right-hand side of the square platform, crossing Bogong Rising and continuing up the arete to DBB.

Sport
Neo-Tokyo
22 Replicant

FA: Nathan Wales

Sport 4
20 Given 'em up Dope

FA: Chris Warner

Sport 4
Sun Wall
13 The Sundial

Up the arete at left end of Sun Wall to DBB.

Sport 20m, 7
17 The Golden Age

FA: Nathan Wales

Sport 25m, 10
16 Shadows of the Evening Sun

Really pleasant route for the grade

FA: Chris Warner

Sport 25m, 9
21 Azimuth

FA: Nathan Wales

Sport 9
16 - 18 Hopefully temporary

An unnecessary and ugly retrobolt

Sport 25m
The Lime
17 Spring Fling

FA: Chris Warner

Sport 15m, 4
20 Easy Ass Hussy

FA: Chris Warner

Sport 6
17 Rewind

Start at the base of the arete.

FA: Chris Warner, Dec 2019

Sport 20m
21 Chartreuse

Climb the face to the right of the arete, with a hard move through the little roof to chain.

FA: chris Warner, Dec 2019

Sport 20m
23 Smoke Signals

Some great climbing starting up the crack and then through the tricky bulge.

FA: Chris Warner, Dec 2019

Sport 15m
26 Last Splash

An excellent route and worth the walk down the ridge

FA: Chris Warner

Sport 15m, 7
24 Lime Tree Arbor

Hard thin crux

FA: Nathan Wales

Sport 15m, 5

Showing all 78 routes.

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