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Routes in Central Area

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Showing all 26 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
14 Open to Public Scrutiny

Several rings to lower off. If you want to access 'Sundeck' clip the lower offs and move past them to double U bolts at the base of 'Piccolo Luna'

Start: Start at inviting looking section of slabbiness.

FA: Garth Miller & Jay Williams, 1992

Sport 20m
15 B

Start at vegetated corner 2m L of OPS. A fine climb once the botany is avoided, delete the star if you avoid the second pitch.

  1. 12m (14) Avoid vegetation in initial corner, then head up the lovely corner above to belay on carrots on Piccolo Luna sundeck.

  2. 6m (15) The deceptively tricky thin yellow corner crack / flake. Natural belay at top or lower off Piccolo Luna rings.

FA: P1. Craig Sloss P2. David Duke, 1990

Trad 18m, 2
19 Quart de Seicle

Start: Up the B gully to the platform to clip the first ringbolt. Pull through overhang then move right (crux). Up past RB's and FH's to lower offs.

This is the furthest right route on the head wall.

Start: Below vege gully and obvious hanging headwall

FA: Garth Miller, 1992

Sport 15m, 6
19 Deception

A nice fingery wall. Up QDS however trend left at overhang to RB on headwall, then up past FH and another RB to same lower off as QDS.

This is the middle line of bolts on the head wall.

Start: Up vege gully as for QDS

FA: Garth Miller, 1992

Sport 15m, 6
20 Deception Variant

Make a move left from the fixed hanger of 'Deception'

Sport 15m
20 Kiddies Chorus

The left of the 3 routes on the amazing high headwall Up vege gully as for Deception and QDS Up the leaning yellow corner and step right onto the mini arete and then onto the headwall

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2010

Sport 20m, 8
17 Reborn

Up the short corner. The unnamed Tim Cartwright route 1991.

Start as for 'Quart De Seicle'. Up past vege and then into the steepish short corner. Use the bolts on the left side then finish at the anchors of Alpine ie. trend left at the top after you come out of the corner.

Sport 20m
21 Crimp da buttock

Between Reborn and D. Starts easily up to bulge, hard move on high crimps through bulge and then up the short orange headwall to anchors of D

FA: Tim M-S, Sep 2017

Sport 20m, 5
17 D

Start on the RB of "Crimp da buttock"

This is a mixed route, originally on 2 carrots low down. Other routes have been bolted across it. If you use these bolts you are not doing the original route!

Easily up the slab. BR on left (or small wires in the crack for the ethically minded!), then up to small foot ledge (BR on right). Up bulgy corner to the top (crux).

Mixed trad 15m, 2
17 D Sports Variant

Start on the RB of "Crimp da buttock"

Using any of the bolts that now cross this route.

Easily up the slab. BR on left (or small wires in the crack for the ethically minded!), then up to small foot ledge (BR on right). Up bulgy corner to the top (crux).

Sport 15m
15 D Piker's Variant

As for 'D' to the footledge, then step left and head up the arete on what is now 'Alpine'.

FA: Peter Monks, 1997

Mixed trad 15m, 2
15 Alpine

Follow the ring bolts up to the prow up high. Up through the overlaps with a bit of high stepping action, to an almost vertical finish.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2010

Sport 20m, 9
13 In the Inn of the Sixth Happiness

A rather rambling, but longer journey up and across the slabs left of 'Alpine'.

Start up 'Alpine' until you see the bolts to the left. Follow to double RB lower off.

Sport 20m, 10
15 The Gruffalo

Right of Snooze. Pull over two bulges and onto the crack and slab. Romp up the nice looking orange rock to the anchors shared with Snooze. The route starts just left of the bush 2m up, watch the tree when lowering!!

FA: Matt Tranter, 13 Aug 2017

Sport 24m, 9
14 Snooze and You Lose

2m right of 'Parents in Pain'. Look for faint blue rectangle painted at head height.

Up to the closed little corner/seam on surprising holds.

This route shares an anchor with "The Gruffalo".

FA: Garth Miller - Solo, 1991

Sport 24m, 9
15 Parents in Pain

Up the stepped looking arete passing 6RB's to lower offs a little back from the top.

Start: At blunt arete 15 metres left of 'Alpine'

FA: Garth Miller & Jay Williams, 1991

Sport 20m, 6
13 Parents in Pain Variant

Skip the bulge by heading right, then up to get back on PiP

Sport 20m
17 First Born

Start 2 metres left of Parents. Pull through the slot and ramble to the steep all. Keep right on the jugs for a fair grade. Finish at Parents lower offs.

FA: matttranter, 2011

Sport 20m, 8
18 Dora the Explorer (and the lost crack of gold.)

Enter the crumbling ruins that guard the first high bolt. Crux move to second bolt. (Can be avoided by stepping far right.) Ramble through the ledges and moss filled cracks to the fabled city of gold. Fun. Long. Exit from chains on the final ledge. 60m is perfectly fine.

Set: Matt Tranter, 2019

FA: Matt Tranter, 8 Oct 2019

Sport 30m, 10
20 Thomas the Tank

Start under the over hung crack. Lock off in the crack and go for the thank god hold on the lip.

Set: Matt Tranter

FA: matttranter, 2011

Sport 10m, 6
20 Everything Audrey

Same start as Pre Pimple Pop but stay right through two caves finishing on technical vertical wall.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2009

Sport 12m, 4
19 Pre Pimple Pop

A fantastic overhang, one of the most popular routes in the Southern Highlands. Start 7m L of PIP under obvious imposing overhang. Up onto slab via L or R (BR) then through overhang to pull lip (crux) lower off U anchor or continue powering through juggy choss! 5 BR's including U Anchor.

Start 7m L of PIP under the obvious imposing overhang.

FA: Garth Miller, Tim Cartwright & Craig Sloss, 1991

Sport 15m, 5
20 Judas Escariot

Start 2m L of PPP. Named after Tim Cartwright went under Craig Slosses nose and stole his project! Rebolted with 8 rings to lower offs.

Start: Left of Pre 'Pimple' Pop at jugs at track level

FA: Tim Cartwright, 1991

Sport 10m, 8
22 Mango Tango

Start in small corner L of JE. Absolutely brilliant top moves once you've bumbled over the bulge. 4 new RB to Lower Offs.

FA: Garth Miller, 1991

Sport 15m
10 E
Trad 20m
14 F
Unknown 15m

Showing all 26 routes.

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