Showing all 20 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
17 | ★ Blood Magic
1
16
2
17
3
17
4
15
Start at the very low point of the crag.
Set: Adam Rabjohns FFA: Adam Rabjohns, 6 Nov 2018 | 75m, 4, 40 | |||
18 | ★★ Here be Dragons
1
15
2
17
3
17
4
18
Start at the very low point of the crag. Meanders up through the old descent gully on really cool features.
Set: Matt Tranter FA: Matt Tranter, 18 Sep 2018 | 52m, 4, 32 | |||
17 | ★★ Nintendo 64
3 nice pitches. Start at RRD initials, about 10m L of Gripping Yarn. P1 30m 17 Start up first few moves of RRP and left up nose to 2nd belay Very Easy Route (rings). P2 30m 17 Up friction slab above belay (stay out of the crack) then up left to Gripping Yarn second belay, left end of overlap. P3 10m 17 Up arete to hidden pockets on slab FA: Eugene Mak, Jeffrey Crass & Michael Law, 2018 | 70m, 3 | |||
16 | ★★ Gripping Yarn
1
16
15m
2
16
50m
3
14
30m
Nice slabbing with a few easy run outs. Easiest to walk down the descent ramp, the route starts up a thin crack some 35m L of the Descent Ramp. Or else 30m R of the big choss gully on the R side of the Main Wall is a fine thin crack up the face of short flake.
(P1 claimed as Mark Farrels Crack in 1997, but regularly climbed in the 70s) FA: Jeffrey Crass & Michael Law | 95m, 3, 13 | |||
13 | ★★ The Very Easy Route
It's possible to wander all over the wall with many variations. This captures the best easy climbing, the pitches are short so you can watch seconds. You can easily combine P1+2, and P4+5 if you use a few slings. All rings. Follow the rings. There is one ring to rule them all.
FA: Michael Law & Jeffrey Crass, 1977 | 110m, 5 | |||
18 | ★ Mittagong Two Step
Start up The Very Easy Route to the first belay or walk in along ledge. Up rightwards past 3 bolts to the smooth scoop (18) then left to the corner (optional medium cam), step left and up arete past 2 bolts. Up delicately to the belay (2 bolts, descent rope tied to one)).The first half of the pitch was originally done as Maur i Rompa FA: Ian Ryan & Jeffrey Crass, 2017 | 35m | |||
15 | ★ On The Shoulders Of Giants
Start on the ledge directly below the descent rope. Follow the cool little ripple up the ledge to double belay anchors. Great beginners slab route, easy to protect, easy to bail. Follow the handline to the belay bolt. | 15m, 9 | |||
13 | ★ Barking Knuckles
Three good easy pitches going leftwards up the spine of the buttress
Set: Jeffrey Crass & Brendon Flanagan, 12 Dec 2017 FA: Brendon Flanagan, Jeffrey Crass, Phuong Ho, Geoff Cooper, Chanté Fisk, kip, ian, sandy & Matt Tranter, 18 Mar 2018 | 60m, 3, 19 | |||
16 | ★ Barking Knuckles Pitch 3 Variant 1.1
Left line on the slab. Use both sides of the big flake to get onto the face. Balancy moves on good holds to get to the first FH. Set: Brendon Flanagan, 8 Apr 2018 FA: Brendon Flanagan & Chris A, 8 Apr 2018 | 18m, 7 | |||
15 | ★★ Barking Knuckles Pitch 3 Variant 2
Right line on the slab. Pass the first easy bolt and up to runnel. Up runnel and trend left. Up easy slab, around bush, easy mantel to DFH. Set: Brendon Flanagan & Matt Tranter, 18 Mar 2018 FA: Brendon Flanagan & Chris A, 8 Apr 2018 | 20m, 7 | |||
12 | ★ Slab Dash
Nice easy (introductory) slab climbing, 2 meters left of 'Far from the Madding Crowd'. up the short black slab to DBB and lower off. FA: Jeffrey Crass, Peter Butcher, Claire Cinnoni, Paula A Cisternas, Chanté Fisk, Brendon Flanagan, Emily Petherbridge, Phuong Ho & Richelle, 12 Nov 2017 | 15m, 4 | |||
18 | ★ Far from the Madding Crowd
Either abseil down from above or descend the fixed rope in the descent gulley or from bottom by following cliff around until a fixed rope is found to access start alcove. Top wall tends to be wet after rain and will seep.
FA: Matthew Tranter & Jon Soper-Dyer | 40m, 2, 14 | |||
17 | ★★ The Devils Tears
Pitch 1 is the nicest moderate pitch on the mountain. Start on the same ledge as 'Far from the Madding Crowd' and 'Road Less Travelled'. Follows the cool looking water runnel up to the mini arête and slab above.
FA: Matt Tranter & Jon S-D | 45m, 2, 16 | |||
19 | ★★ Road Less Travelled
Starts at same ledge as 'Far from the Madding Crowd' and 'The Devils Tears', about 5m further right.
FA: Matt Tranter | 50m, 2, 15 | |||
18 | ★★ Look Ma, No Hands
First route on the mini slab. Pull past horizontal break and then up to the reinforced hold. Micro holds all the way to the final over lap and jugs. Set: Matt Tranter FA: Matt Tranter, 19 Dec 2018 | 15m, 8 | |||
20 | ★★ Riding Shotgun (Underneath the Hot Sun.)
Middle of the slab. Thin moves well protected. FA: Matt Tranter, 2018 Set: Matt Tranter, 2018 | 15m, 8 | |||
17 | ★★ Paved With Good Intentions
Right hand side of the slab. Start on the conveniently positioned old tree trunk. Pull up slab into curving crack, lay back with style and surmount the head wall with care. Set: Matt Tranter FFA: Matt Tranter, 18 Dec 2018 | 15m, 10 | |||
17 | Pioneers, rebels and mutineers.
2 metres further right. Start on the flake of rock, up the clean slab and over the overlap. Romp to top. FA: Matt Tranter, 26 May 2019 | 20m, 8 | |||
17 | ★★ Mad Dogs and Englishmen
1
16
2
17
3
17
Start, walk about 40m R of The Road less travelled etc at a body high flake you can just squeeze thru (or walk around).
Set: Matt Tranter & James FA: Matt Tranter, 11 Feb 2018 | 60m, 3, 18 | |||
19 | ★ Orchid Alley
1
19
2
17
3
14
Great climbing,more smearing and balance than crimping, up a clean water streak. Start, walk about 40m R of The Road less travelled etc to a body high flake you can just squeeze thru (or walk around) (Mad Dogs and Englishmen). Clean black streak 6m right of squeeze. Now easier as it has cleaned up.
FA: Jeffrey Crass & Michael Law, 2017 | 90m, 3, 17 |
Showing all 20 routes.