Nodes in Maggie's Farm

A high value wilderness area with Staghorns, Elkhorns, Crowsnests & one of the last areas in Qld., for the Brush Tailed Rock Wallaby. Requires good bush-walking & navigation skills.

A small outcrop of pillars, at the far lh end of the Main Wall. Mostly chimney style climbing, but 2 good, hard, mixed routes here.

Start: LH column.

Tricky move to the first FH, then hard moves to the 2nd FH (crux), up past a 3rd FH to a horizontal crack, tricky moves up to a bolt on the LHS of the arête, then cruise up to top and TB 5m behind pillar.

(FHs marked on topo. Horizontal break at 3/4 height is good for medium sized cams.)

Inside the "Devil's Hole" there are 3 body cracks/chimneys. These 3 were soloed by Rick on their first visit. The initials "DH" are still visible inside the shaft.

Varied climbing up a leg crack. A bit harder & thrutchier than the other DH routes.

Pleasant climbing up an easy crack. Take the central "hole".

Easy climbing up the crack on the Right, exiting out through the hole.

Start: On the large flake at the base of the RH column.

Up to a bolt at 3m height, hard climbing past another bolt to a good horizontal crack, up the thin face, passing a FH to the next horizontal crack, then past a bolt to the top and DBB.

(Small to medium sized cams.)

Marked "DB" - Right of Delilah. A body chimney.

Squirm up the body chimney with good, clean body jambing technique. A chockstone a little over halfway offers the only protection.

A "neb" on a free standing pillar in front of DB. Nice climbing up the blade.

A pity it is so short.

A short route up the easy slab, then a pure handjamb crack in the corner.

A bulging 5" crack. A hard startup the off-width, then easier up the body chimney.

A thin, jagged crack, Right of WW - an alternative start to Wenches Waist:

Up crack to WW, then up the body chminey.

A classic body chimney. The obvious body chimney in the middle of Baby Buttress.

Up body crack, then take the left line at the top (another chimney). A good technique builder: strenuous, but secure.

A flaring body-leg crack next to Thwack.

An arm jamb, crack corner. A nice exercise in arm jambing.

A 3" crack corner left of Up Periscope.

Arm jamb or layback - at your preference, with a body crack to finish up.

Initialled "UP". (see photo)

Somewhat separate from the other routes at Baby Buttress: squeeze through the pillars far right, make your way up around into the left corner above.

A hard start, then pleasant bridging & jambing up the twin crack system. Rap off trees.

Stacked blocks in front of Main Wall. 5-15m high.

The Left-most of the 2 main cracks.

A 4" overhung crack, rather strenuous. Nice layback start. Offers a chockstone at half height.

The Right of the 2 main cracklines. Pleasant hand & fist jambs up past a boulder, then horizontal crack at 2/3 height.

Purely jambing the same crack without using the pillar on the Right.

The big, leaning boulder next to File.

Dominated by the 90m high wall.

Thin finger crack Left of OBC. Up to same ledge as OBC & TB.

Obvious crackline with the tree growing out of it at 2/3 height. Tricky start to first gear. Somewhat vegetated, but technical crack climbing. Surmount the tree and up to the ledge above & rap off tree.

Was bolted, these have been chopped.

(The person who chopped the bolts has the philosophy that sports routes & trad routes should not inhabit the same cliff as bolts intrude upon the trad ethic.)

Locate the flake Right of OBC.

Up Right side of flake, then Left across ledge to thin handcrack & up to ledge & TB.

A spearing handcrack on the face of the pillar Left of BOTE.

Layaway over to crack, on thin holds. Once established, follow this superb line up to the top of roofs, then move left around to tree.

Climb the large, obvious chimney: the first big Right facing corner from the Left.

Start by scrambling desperately up the gully over loose ground and into the chimney. The key to solid rock is to climb the first crack in the left wall to avoid bad rock near the start, then up on an incredible assortment of cracks & chimneys.

By avoiding the loose sections, this route offers great & mostly easy climbing throughout.

Climbing up a long crack 1" to 2" in width. A classic second pitch by going up the enclosed chimney.

On the wall, Right of BOTE, a tree at 30m.

1. Ascend the crack to the tree.

2. Continue with magnificent (easier) climbing up the enclosed chimney to top.

"The best, first, & hardest route here. Three hard pitches up this magnificent corner." (Rick's original entry for RURP magazine September 1972.)

The 2nd prominent Right facing corner, Left of SHB. Straight up the manky chimney/corner passing an overhanging block at 40-50m.

Has the distinction of being the very first route established at Maggie's Farm.

Mobile phone reception is virtually nonexistent here. As of 2019 - Telstra has some coverage, Optus=a little, Vodafone =0. A 000 call connects with any carrier available. Have tick repellent with you: do a tick inspection at the crag & when you get back to the car. Some have encountered leeches here as well.

Mobile phone reception is virtually nonexistent here. As of 2019 - Telstra has some coverage, Optus=a little, Vodafone =0. A 000 call connects with any carrier available. Have tick repellent with you: do a tick inspection at the crag & when you get back to the car. Some have encountered leeches here as well.

Characterised by broken pillars, short routes. Some more worthy routes higher up; as per Mank Messiah.

Up the corner

Up the groove, then Chimney

A chimney with a block in it.

Start at the initials "BS"

A rather manky affair. Up the off-width,then chimney. (see topo)

Scramble off the backside.

Start: scramble up the mank to find a high pillar.

Ascend the twin crack corner with cave formations halfway up. Varied crack climbing.

Distinctive yellow cliffs offering varied crack climbing.

Start: Below yellow corner; straight crack, Left of Asps Only. Intimidating crackline.

Start: at the yellow corner below Widow Maker (see topo).

Diagonal hand & finger crack that splits a slab then up a pillar to a ledge. After the ledge, up another diagonal to the Right.

A blade & blocks mark the start. Up the crack system to a ledge, continue up to a body crack and tackle the jamb crack on the left side of the buttress to the top. 2 pitches of 18.

Characterised by a 10" corner crack. This eliminate follows the wide crack corner on the right side of Widowmaker Buttress. Up corner to body crack, up this to another crack-corner. Excellent, sustained crack climbing.

A layback corner at the top of Widow Maker Buttress. Up the thin corner, then a chimney to top. Superb climbing.

Mobile phone reception is virtually nonexistent here. As of 2019 - Telstra has some coverage, Optus=a little, Vodafone =0. A 000 call connects with any carrier available. Have tick repellent with you: do a tick inspection at the crag & when you get back to the car. Some have encountered leeches here as well.

Start: The chimney & corner up high on the Right side of Widow Maker's Cleft.

1. _m 17 - Up jamb crack, then two consecutive short corners.

2. _m 17 - Finish up chimney.

Varied climbing with one short, hard, awkward place.

A series of two body cracks behind a pillar next to the cleft. Up cracks to ledge, then up chimney to top.

A small crag, Horizontally, but tall, imposing cliffs.

At the top of the gully: A little wall with a good fist corner in the middle.

1. 20m Up blocks for 20m to ledge & belay.

2. 20m Up steep RH crack from the ledge.

Can be done in one pitch.

First 20m or pitch; as for Minute Man, then the second half up the perfect fist crack corner to top.

A three star route!

Initialed: "V"

Up the Left facing corner. Hard technical laybacking.

History: first spotted & named by Ted Cais in '72.

A crack somewhere here.

"At Maggie's Farm, McGregor has added Broken Wings 22."

(Thrutch mag #69 Nov/Dec 1976.)

The smooth crack on blank rock, on the wall right of Velocette and back about 10m.

Queensland's first 24.

Start: On the pillar below Wounded Bird, split by a hand crack.

Take the Left crack of the hand cracks. A hard start leads to a scrubby top-out.

Start: On the pillar below Wounded Bird. Right of Left Out.

Take the Right crack of the two - good at the top.

2 short pitches following a delightful crack-line splitting the main buttress.

1. Easily up to top of small pillar, then straight up hand crack splitting the face to a small ledge & loose block. Then up the wider crack to a large ledge.

2. Up over large blocks to the next ledge, then ascend the 3" crack splitting the face.

The route ends at same ledge as Mother Superior: TB. Lower off back down the route, or down MS & walk back down hill to the start.

As per above.

Start at the initialled "L", about 3m Right of Speed Crack.

Hand & finger jambing up beside the sloping ramp. A nice crack line. An alternative start to Speed Crack.

Up above Speed Crack. Walk up to Tough Mamma Wall, tben follow the ledge back up left.

Initialled "MI" - A short, hard, 5" crack narrows to 3" at the top. A #5 cam is handy.

Rap off tree. Speed Crack joins this at the top.

Initialled - the offwidth crack in the corner, right of MI. Pleasant hand jambs up a nice corner.

2019 note: please try and avoid this route - there's a magnificent staghorn growing in the top crack.

Speed Buttress - MS & FI - top out.jpg

The pick of the climbing at Maggie's Farm. Frog quality cracks.

The impossibly thin crack left of Tough Mamma.

Start: The LH end of Tough Mamma Wall.

Free moves in groove at 25m. Abseil at top.

An excellent aid route, using only crackers. Take a good selection of small nuts & stoppers. (RURP 1973)

Start: Just Left of Grass Lane.

Direct and varied jambing, but watch the touchy block.

The grass filled corner crack, left of the cave. Up the corner, over the overhanging blocks, step Right and up to the top. Enjoyable varied climbing.

"To the left of Tough Mamma is Dragon Woman 20, by Kevin Pearl & Fred From, which goes through a small roof." (Thrutch mag #72 Sept/Oct 1977)

The thin crack immediately Left of Little Queen. Up this, through the small rooflet.

The thin crack just Left of TM. Up this to ledge & TB.

Done by Coral Bowman (US) in 1977, likely the first female ascent at this grade in AU.

The fantastic crack line in the middle of the crag (see topo).

1. 20m 21 - Up the Left crack to a ledge at 20m & belay.

2. 40m - continue to top & TB.

Tough Mamma Wall - John Hattink on FA 1974

A more complete finish of the crack Right of Tough Mamma.

Up this till it blanks out, then left into Tough Mamma & up to top.

"Egg Everett & Rick White did Black Magic Woman 22, Right of Tough Mamma."

(Thrutch mag #72 Sept/Oct 1977.)

(Possibly the thin crack 1m Right of TM?)

"Even further Right of Tough Mamma is Hard Headed Woman 18, by Kevin Pearl & Fred From."

(Thrutch mag #72 Sept/Oct 1977.)

Start in the alcove at the initialed "M", up the slope, Right of the free standing pillar.

1. 45m 20 - Up the line to log tree at 45m.

2. 20m 20 - Up to top.

Sustained crack climbing, exceptionally hard in places. Ground up first ascent, no rests, no inspection, no cleaning.

Start: At the flakes 6-8m R of Magician behind small tree.

1. Grovel up the flaring vegetated off-width (nasty start), and into chimney, then more grovelling up this. Step back L into the crack proper and follow to small niche above. Climb thru this & follow steep cracks to below loose flakes, up these & belay on loose pillar.

2. Climb corner & down L to TB and rap.

To avoid the tough direct start, take the overhanging flake/crack & step R into chimney and grovel up this.

Rest as per Enduro.

Mobile phone reception is virtually nonexistent here. As of 2019 - Telstra has some coverage, Optus=a little, Vodafone =0. A 000 call connects with any carrier available. Have tick repellent with you: do a tick inspection at the crag & when you get back to the car. Some have encountered leeches here as well.

Inside corner just Left of Dutch Courage. The dodgy corner crack with a deadly flake.

Inside corner, just Left of Dutch Courage. The 2nd of 2 hand-cracks in this little corner alcove.

Very short, steep gully at the far rh end of Maggie's

Up the delicious crack at the bottom of the gully to a bushy ledge.

Hard, very sustained fist jambing. A second pitch is possible - of poor quality.

Mobile phone reception is virtually nonexistent here. As of 2019 - Telstra has some coverage, Optus=a little, Vodafone =0. A 000 call connects with any carrier available. Have tick repellent with you: do a tick inspection at the crag & when you get back to the car. Some have encountered leeches here as well.

Mobile phone reception is virtually nonexistent here. As of 2019 - Telstra has some coverage, Optus=a little, Vodafone =0. A 000 call connects with any carrier available. Have tick repellent with you: do a tick inspection at the crag & when you get back to the car. Some have encountered leeches here as well.