Routes in Mt Ninderry

Crimpy and sustained. At the 5th bolt it makes sense to move R into Nitro for a few moves before punching back L. The back wall is off limits until you're at the anchors. Some folks say 27. Log a personal grade and let the algorithm decide.

Starts up the right side of the cave then left through the roof on wild "Ninderry-solid" features. Finishes up the middle of the headwall. Awesome steep climbing at a moderate grade.

Stay hungry. Tweener between Toils and You Only Hide. Shares a couple of holds but climbs virtually independent. Tricksy and sustained.

The arete as the track rounds the bend. Gets a bit dirty up high

Shares first 3 bolts of Korova then up the bulging face right of the corner past another 4 bolts. Left of the block at the top, compressing past the final bolt, to the anchors of Toils.

R end of main wall. Semi-hanging belay on ledge. Punchy boulder problem start. Tricky all the way to the chains.

Fun, pumpy, punchy climbing on great rock up the short steep wall.

Face right of arete. Shares last bolt and anchors with Bruce. Can also share 1st bolt with Bruce, but isn’t required. 5FHs, 6FHs if using Bruce’s first.

Fun, pumpy, punchy climbing on great rock up the short steep wall.

Face right of arete. Shares last bolt and anchors with Bruce. Can also share 1st bolt with Bruce, but isn’t required. 5FHs, 6FHs if using Bruce’s first.

Short prominent arete R end of the wall. Clip the low first bolt then start R in the corner. Explosive movements with long tosses and stiff climbing.

1m left of SSM. Sitting start, lunging moves to mantle

One of the better warm ups on the cliff. An isolated route but well worth doing on great rock. 6 UB’s lead up the steep and juggy wall to anchors over the lip.

Climb the (somewhat green!) crack and flake L of enter the ninja, with some interference from the tree. Head L on the ledge and up the crack dissecting the bulging buttress. Take care with the chockstones and blocks up high to topout on ledge w/ anchors.

Runout after second bolt, but still quite fun. Shares anchors and last bolt with Have another Home Brew

Start off the terrace above the previous routes. Short and intense. Heel, toe, gut busting core. Turn the lip to the anchors (double bolts) however back cleaning required.

Small wall to a burly little roof and mantle. Quite fun as a warm up, and an enjoyable miniature piece of climbing. 4 FHs to chains

Second climb from the left. Plenty of questionable rock and a big run out between the 3rd and the 4th bolt.

The route to the left of Boaty McBoatface, shared anchor with Boaty. Hangers are easily seen near the top but extend to approx 15 below the Boaty DBB station where another DBB exists in good condition to belay from. Can also be used as a descent route (another 20m or so) to the ledge just above the start of pitch two for Just Add Water from Octopuses Garden. If rapping down this way be aware the pull down runs the risk of snagging your rope in trees halfway down and another rap from a tree or a longish walk around is still needed to get back to Octopuses Garden if your gear is there.

Begins on ledge, Face L side of runnel. Good climbing on excellent rock. Harder if you're short.

Delicately ascend through the large easy vegetated gully. Use long slings to reduce drag for 2nd half or break the whole climb into 2 pitches. Traverse right at the easy ground for 4 meters to the obvious crack. Plug in your gear and enjoy pro until about 3 meters from the top where you break left to easier ground. Tree belay. Easy walk to Katana. Very loose large stuff at top-out.

The direct on Kill Bill. Start R of NT at the crack. 3 bolts to join KB at the end of the traverse. The climb goes just R of bolt 3 (the patina prevented bolts from being placed further R). Sustained pinches, underclings, sidepulls. Tough 2nd clip, but for full value avoid stickclipping it.

The super steep arching corner that travels under Vertigo's crux and finishes at Left hands anchor. Featuring multiple cruxs'and mind bending positions this climb has it all. Starting in the overhang left of Vertigo's first bolt, overcome the horizontal roof and up the groove to tackle the blank V corner. Continue along the arch with plenty of gear till arriving at difficult moves transitioning from 40 degree overhang to 20 degree slab and through to anchor. Set up a top belay and second to clean. Take two racks of cams, set of wires, and lots of extenders. 28m free hanging abseil to ground.

The airy scramble that will get you to the DBB at the base of Boaty McBoatface if you've just climbed Just Add Water or are at the overhung climbs with fixed ropes. Nuts etc optional as if you climb it right the rope and trees will protect any unexpected falls. Though you might like to sling the trees for comfort, but please minimise damage to them. This is the better option than the right hand variant as there's less/zero chance of hailing rocks onto your belayer, and you wind up at the DBB for Boaty.

Located hidden up the gully just beyond the trad wall. This route and MbP both climb the slabby pillar and then the living-room sized boulder wedged between the walls. TU is the left route directly up the guts. A closed project for now.

Start: 2m left of Lava Tube under cave. Slab for first 2 bolts into cave and 3rd FH. Get all tangled up getting to the 4th FH and turn the lip. Continues straight up to chains. 7 FHs

A squeeze, but so what. Shares first bolt with Five Point. Goes a little L after bolt 3 into the underclings. Shares a few holds with COYS before busting R and up. Same top as the others. Can certainly be done punching R lower on some cool intense side pulls at 23 but is unfortunately contrived.

Last line before the wall rounds the bend. Quality micro-route. Easy start, hard boulder problem direct through the shield, pumpy little finish.

Load up the crack, punch out roof and mantle into blankness joining into Pitcairn. Bold.

The right hand variant, going straight up. This is far more risky as a scramble and just generally a less than ideal way to get up to the upper section of the crag, as there's a lot of loose gravel and rock that you can and likely will kick down towards your belayer. They can either belay from anchors at top of Just Add Water, or from in the boulders underneath the overhang. At the top of the gully you'll find the belay bolt for the Mariana Trench at about chest height. Belaying from here is not ideal, a better option is to use a draw/biner to help redirect the rope and keep it up and away from the loose rock, so that you can belay from tree or gear to the left near base of Sea Monkey's Uncle.

Will be hard! Alex has done all the moves so it goes. Give it a crack!

Climb pillar with funky moves to gain boulder then traverse R. Bouldery, punchy moves up arete to top out. Single bolt lower-off however easier to back jump and clean.

Below Seaman Staines in little cave, thread the feature then clip one fh before squirming out to the anchors. Can rap in or easy scramble down/out to left.

Last line before the wall rounds the bend. Quality micro-route. Easy start, hard boulder problem direct through the shield, pumpy little finish.

Fun, steep monkeying on amazingly solid funk! Committing and rewarding. Start on chossy shelf a metre to the left of TOAGB on U bolts. Trend slightly left after the third bolt to the fourth just to the right of the roof, and make sure you don't miss the fifth bolt (use a long quickdraw), which is hiding above one of the rooflets.

Climb pillar with funky moves to gain boulder then traverse R. Bouldery, punchy moves up arete to top out. Single bolt lower-off however easier to back jump and clean.

Shares first 3 bolts of Korova then up the bulging face right of the corner past another 4 bolts. Left of the block at the top, compressing past the final bolt, to the anchors of Toils.

Takes the hard R to L undercling to headwall. Looks classic and hard!

Up left side of cave to shared anchors.

Stay hungry. Tweener between Toils and You Only Hide. Shares a couple of holds but climbs virtually independent. Tricksy and sustained.

The arete as the track rounds the bend. Gets a bit dirty up high

Shares first 3 bolts of Korova then up the bulging face right of the corner past another 4 bolts. Left of the block at the top, compressing past the final bolt, to the anchors of Toils.

Left hand finish to Birds of Prey. Spicy boulder problem in the sky, keep the bolts at your chest then clip anchors at your waist for full value. Pack your pads.

Already a classic.

Arete RHS. High first bolt near arete. Somewhat engaging climbing requiring a steady hand. Should one be seized with fear, or suffer a sudden palsy up high, then disaster is imminent.

Start carefully up arete to big hueco and first bolt. A hard mid section leads to sustained and committing climbing all the way to the chains. Don't mistake the last bolt with the mallion on it for the finish - double bolt anchors at the top.

Clip first bolt from the narrow ledge and pull onto the hard start. Pumpy pocketed face. Avoid traversing R for a giant rest on the jug of KB and add a grade and a star. A classic route but best avoided between Aug-Dec as the local falcon has a habit of greeting would-be ascentionists at very high speeds.

Dappled face veering R to a tricky clip at the 5th bolt, then directly up into the cave. Don't finish here! Use a very long draw then up and R onto the giant fang with a bolt on the tip, questing heroically to the anchors on the headwall.

A hard crux through the roof, especially for the vertically challenged, followed by fun cranking over a bucket or two, to an exciting topout.

Other side of arete from ETN. Use long runner on first bolt of ETN then L around arête to high FH on face. Jugs and crimps to the break. A move L on edges sets you up to attack the face. Sustained crimping over the bulge leads back to the arête and a welcome FH. Up arete to break, final bolt (long runner) and anchors of ETN.

Climb the (somewhat green!) crack and flake L of enter the ninja, with some interference from the tree. Head L on the ledge and up the crack dissecting the bulging buttress. Take care with the chockstones and blocks up high to topout on ledge w/ anchors.

Stickclip recommended. Use long draw in cave. Beware loose rock in top section but it doesn't detract from the experience.

Steep arete on pinnacle. What it lacks in length it makes up for with exposure and pumpiness! Use 1+mtr slings on anchors if lowering or alternatively abseil off to clean.

Please note: Closed during Peregrine Falcon nesting season (August- December)

Face and blunt arete just L of crack. Joins COYS in cave.

Good compression boulder problem then glory to the chains!

Dappled face of high pinnacle. Climbs the face L of the bolts not the easy flake way off to the R. This route is thin, technical and tricky. Shares anchors with IaTN so requires long 1.5m slings to lower off.

Please note: Closed during Peregrine Falcon nesting season (August- November)

A hidden gem! Up Potbelly then veer R at the last bolt (long draw) and downclimb behind the pillar into the cave. Belay second with care off the first bolt of Airbender. The route climbs the back wall then steep L trending rib. At the top resist the temptation to step back and climb past the last bolt and onto the ledge. Exit left to tree belay then rap off anchors above ETN (rusty) or around the corner above Katana. Quite an adventure!

Traverse R along fixed rope. Grey face/arete. Stick clip first bolt and start up crack. Punchy and sustained little route with long moves between good holds.

Not bad in it's own right. May have suffered a broken hold...

Starts under the overhanging bob in the middle of the cave. Juggy for the first 4 bolts. High clip in the roof and a great sequence of bouldering leading to the big flake. Bust your way right on jugs to a pumpy finish in the black crack/corner. High anchor over the top.

Named after an angry former inhabitant! Start in the back of the black cave. Burly climbing through cool hanging features. The sustained headwall still packs a bite!

9 BR to anchors. Deceptively steep face and blunt arête. Pumpy. Not for the feint of heart with a little funky rock and an engaging crux. Stick to the line and no traversing way off R into the cave.

The furthest R route on this sector, behind the rock arch. Climb wall to ledge in cave. Monkey up R side of scoop, power through sustained cruxy bulge, and up moderate headwall to the world’s end. Use long runners in cave. Harder than the original 24 since hold broke.

Up QR for three bolts, then L through the steep bulge. After the boulder problem continue L a tad to join the top of SS. Either top out SS (rope twisting anchors) or use the right bolt and hand traverse right to SR anchors.

Delicately ascend through the large easy vegetated gully. Use long slings to reduce drag for 2nd half or break the whole climb into 2 pitches. Traverse right at the easy ground for 4 meters to the obvious crack. Plug in your gear and enjoy pro until about 3 meters from the top where you break left to easier ground. Tree belay. Easy walk to Katana. Very loose large stuff at top-out.

Starts just right of Absinthe under the steep, chossy looking, open book feature. Fun steep jugging to about halfway, then a very hard section of bouldering leads to a superb pumper finish. Great climbing despite appearances.

Great limestone-esque climbing up face and corner L of flying buttress. Good route but take a rappel device for the last climber as the anchors are mallions that twist the rope so a rappel is advised. Will be fixed in due course.

Left most end of the cave. Climbs well but there may still be some rubbish rock. Needs a good day of cleaning and sorting out of the clusterfuck of bolts.

R hand route in cave (L of manky crack). Very poor rock

Easy to begin then steep white wall with the coolest underclings at Ninderry. Traverse L at the obvious slopey break, then over the big block and up the black headwall to anchors.

Shares the start with it's twin, then L onto the ledge. Direct up following the vertical seam through the crimpy face. Maybe a tad contrived but does not climb the easy stuff out L. Trend R above hard section to join the top of DDR.

“Despite appearances all the holds are bomber... I challenge you to pull anything off!” - J. Make him a wager. Enjoyable climbing on big, nicely moulded holds.

These 2 routes can be found in a completely seperate area from the previous routes... On an isolated pillar where the track rounds the southern point of Ninderry between Ocean Vista and The Caves. Look for the tiny cave with bolts above it. Hard bouldery start followed by a few intersting sections. Use long runner on 3rd. Air-y climbing up arete to chains out L.

Variant finish to DWA. At the roof hand traverse R along the lip then crank for the top. Powerful moves and a tricky mantle. Wildly exposed fun climbing which deserves to be more popular.

Already a classic.

On the main wall, but confusingly left of the two subsequent described routes. Scramble/bridge up into the very top section of cave. This route climbs the steep L side of cave and wall above. Somewhat sharp rock at the start leads to a surprisingly fine and exposed headwall with anchors.

R of the steep manky crack. A couple of cruxes. The original line moves right and up thru a technical fingery crux and wild dyno. Some climbers prefer to climb the juggy crack instead.

Middle line out of cave. If lead in one pitch, anchor in and pull the rope through the first 4 draws before proceeding to reduce drag.

Slab to headwall to exposed step-around to techy corner. A bit of everything! If you're up for the adventure it's not to be missed. Top bolt very loose on anchors. Hand tighten and put your draws next to the bottom bolt until someone can come with a spanner (loctite or lock washer please).

Up the steepest part of the left side of the cave. Start on the chalked holds at the right end of the steep scoop. This route was born as a 26, then grew to 27, now probably 28 or harder after multiple breaks up high. You bolt choss that’s what you get. Could probably use a little glue and love if anyone is motivated.

On the little wall down gully below FW. Though short, this route has sustained technical climbing with a diabolical crux. Gets lichen.

L of STL. Tough crux, but fall-offable all the way!

R side route on Sunset Buttress. Beautiful rock.

Begins from ground level. Cruxy and heartbreaking to the chains!

Begins on ledge, Face L side of runnel. Good climbing on excellent rock. Harder if you're short.

Technical and sustained with multiple cruxes. Stay true to the line, particularly above bolts 4 and 5, where committing moves to thank-god jugs keep you honest.

Starts two metres left of TPPP in corner crack. Climbs easily up crack till prow is reached at second bolt (optional small cam beneath second bolt). Tough move through prow and sustained climbing follows, which trends slightly left the whole way. Lower off just before ledge.

10BR to anchors (+1 optional belay bolt on ledge). Moderate ledge-y stuff on P1 then sweeeet clean face above. Belay on ledge a good idea (grade 18, 5BR to there) but reasonable as a single pitch with a few long runners in the first half and an attentive belay. From the ledge, get your crimp action on. A thin bouldery section is followed by excellent edging up an immaculate steep wall to anchors.

7 bolts from the cave to anchors. Climb as for FC to the cave. This is the L line directly above the anchors. Severe Body-English is necessary to solve the boulder problem out the cave. The climbing eases significantly as the angle relents, though still keeps you punching through the overlap. To minimise drag, safety into the first anchors and pull the rope through before continuing.

Begin in L side of cave, around the arete and up face to anchors of NT. Uber sustained from the get go until the break.

Link up. First two bolts of Kill Bill to its third FH (but don't clip it) before traversing R into Funnel Web at its third FH and finishing up this.

Easy to find; it’s the biggest roof on the mountain. Much less intimidating than it looks from below. Start 6m L of Dontworry.com at the tree. Prepare yourself for some adventure-sport climbing! Take the time to get the rigging right for this one or you won’t be able to clip the anchor due to drag. Doable with a single rope if you use LOTS of long slings. Easy ramble to the roof. Punch the juggy roof, turn the lip and if you’ve done everything right you’ll be able to pull rope for the anchor clip Impossible to clean from the anchor, so back-jump the roof and lower-off. Rebolted Dec 2013.

3m L of NA. Up runout, easy jugs for three ringbolts (long slings). Pull L into steep runnel and thug up to the base of 50 degree overhung headwall (grade 18 to here). The permadraw hanging over the lip points the way. A hard and direct boulder problem to the blind (and tiny) hold over the lip. Difficult moves are followed by a mantle onto the lip hold. A great sequence of bouldering in a super exposed position, only slightly spoilt by the fact that there’s tempting easy ground off L (not in). Hard to grade. 18 V7? Save your rope and clean from the permadraw and leaver-biner. Rebolted December 2013.

Starts 3m R of Pneumothorax in hollowed out cave. Begin the wild start by stick clipping the low bolt and cranking over the crazy roof! A vision quest up Ninderry funk to a headwall crux. Take a sling for a mid way thread thru a hole.

A very proud line with classy climbing that follows TSSS to the anchors, veers R, then straight up aiming for the beautiful orange headwall and arete at the very top of the cliffs. Veer R up the final arete, ignore the distracting bolts just to the left. A few things to note: 1. To climb with minimal drag backclean the first bolt, use extenders for last BR and anchors on TSSS (or clip the last bolt on Tim Burton Tunnel and backclean the TSSS anchor). 2. It’s not possible to lower to ground from final anchors using a 60m rope so clean this climb in two pitches or use a 70m rope. Climb named with respect for the peregrine falcons that nest close by, so as much as this is a great climb, it should only be climbed outside of the falcons nesting season.